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 Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/09/2012 Posts: 491 Points: 1,452 Location: London
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Hi alan, great build you got here, tis a shame about the wood stain though, my stain was darker than i hoped too even though i tested it before hand, but as you say it'll barely be visible. Will sanding it down not do the trick? Processing - Progressing
Previous builds: HMS Victory Current build: HMS Sovereign of the seas
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Admiral Anti Spiral wrote:Hi alan, great build you got here, tis a shame about the wood stain though, my stain was darker than i hoped too even though i tested it before hand, but as you say it'll barely be visible. Will sanding it down not do the trick? Thanks for those kind comments Admiral... This deck was always intended to be used as a practice area. Now that somethin hasn't turned out quite right it is up to me to correct it to an acceptable standard.. It's all part of the learning process and will help me progress from being an average builder to a good builder and beyond... Will be trying to sand it down today to see if i can lighten it a little, a little use of white spirit may also help.... At least no damage has been done, none of it will be seen so am quite laid back about it now... Will post progress, good or bad so it can be used as a learning point for others following on behind...... Regards Alan
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Hi there Alan! Just had a look at your deck staining problem, as you say it does look a little dark although its probably closer to the real thing than clean bare wood would be! Have to admit I've never used stain of any kind on my three wooden decks (Grimsby, Bounty and now the ol'Vic), I've always preferred the look of the actual wood so I've either matt varnished or sanding sealer-ed it, (both clear finishes) With regards to your problem, I think I would recommend using a very fine grade foam sanding block and lightly go over the deck until just enough of the stain has been stripped off, Using the block will mean you can't reach into every nook and cranny which is actually better for the finish, the areas you can't get into will appear naturally darker and will help the effect of 'shadowed' areas which will in effect add more depth to the deck. You should hopefully end up with a good approximation of a 'weathered' deck, (just look at some photos of the real Victory's deck, they don't look as pristine as they once did - and that's an understatement!) As you say, this deck is almost invisible once the uppers go on so it's a good chance to try out some techniques, you never know, you might even get it looking so good you'll repeat it on the other decks too! Best of luck with it and let us see how you go! Robin First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
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 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 1,400 Points: 4,690 Location: Beaminster, Dorset
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Hi Alan, As Robin says you should be able to sand the stain out, I made a mistake and picked up the Dark Oak stain tin instead of the Light Oak and brushed a sizeable area before I realised my error, but it sanded off with no problem. It's a general rule that dark colours look darker to the eye and whites whiter the greater the area, particularly on scale models. So it's better to use dark grey than black and very pale grey than white and so on. I find Light Oak dark enough for decks. Good luck with the deck.
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 Rank: Super-Elite      Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/04/2010 Posts: 5,787 Points: 17,662 Location: Stafford, United Kingdom
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Hi Alan I did the process as Robin discribed on my Endeavour Deck please have a look on my build Diary. I will be applying this process to all my builds the weathered look you achieve I feel is worth the effort  Kind regards Mike MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.
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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/08/2012 Posts: 336 Points: 857 Location: London
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Yes, burmese teak is dark.
I use it on my cannons and it looks good, but certainly wouldn't want to use it on a visible deck. A medium oak would probably be quite nice.
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Plymouth57 wrote:Hi there Alan! Just had a look at your deck staining problem, as you say it does look a little dark although its probably closer to the real thing than clean bare wood would be! Have to admit I've never used stain of any kind on my three wooden decks (Grimsby, Bounty and now the ol'Vic), I've always preferred the look of the actual wood so I've either matt varnished or sanding sealer-ed it, (both clear finishes) With regards to your problem, I think I would recommend using a very fine grade foam sanding block and lightly go over the deck until just enough of the stain has been stripped off, Using the block will mean you can't reach into every nook and cranny which is actually better for the finish, the areas you can't get into will appear naturally darker and will help the effect of 'shadowed' areas which will in effect add more depth to the deck. You should hopefully end up with a good approximation of a 'weathered' deck, (just look at some photos of the real Victory's deck, they don't look as pristine as they once did - and that's an understatement!) As you say, this deck is almost invisible once the uppers go on so it's a good chance to try out some techniques, you never know, you might even get it looking so good you'll repeat it on the other decks too! Best of luck with it and let us see how you go! Robin Hi Robin, thanks for the comments and of course the advice, all is so very welcome.. Have been sanding the deck today and in between sands I have been giving the deck a once over with white spirit which has been drawing some of the staining out... Just waiting for the deck to dry and see where we are from there.... Now believe this is recoverable to an acceptable standard.....
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court orchard wrote:Hi Alan, As Robin says you should be able to sand the stain out, I made a mistake and picked up the Dark Oak stain tin instead of the Light Oak and brushed a sizeable area before I realised my error, but it sanded off with no problem. It's a general rule that dark colours look darker to the eye and whites whiter the greater the area, particularly on scale models. So it's better to use dark grey than black and very pale grey than white and so on. I find Light Oak dark enough for decks. Good luck with the deck. Thank you Andy, not only having to learn about building with wood but have to learn about paints, stains and varnishes.... all good though and the advice received on this forum is all very welcome..... Will be posting pics very soon to show progress... it is getting better, in fact I am now starting to like it..... Regards Alan
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MWG wrote:Hi Alan I did the process as Robin discribed on my Endeavour Deck please have a look on my build Diary. I will be applying this process to all my builds the weathered look you achieve I feel is worth the effort  Kind regards Mike Hi Mike, thanks for commenting and looking in... Have had a look of your Endeavour diaries and as per ususal, excellent work.... Leaning something new every single day.... Regards Alan
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RobT wrote:Yes, burmese teak is dark.
I use it on my cannons and it looks good, but certainly wouldn't want to use it on a visible deck. A medium oak would probably be quite nice. Thanks Rob, unfortunately I found all this out a little too late, now trying to recover from it.... Regards Alan
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Am now a lot happier about the decking after a few courses of fine sanding following by cleaning with white spirit.... Not sure I can improve on it much more so tomorrow will give it a coat matt clear varnish and call it a day.... Good learning lesson this one..... Any comments prior to varnishing is appreciated....  ... First pic shows the deck as she was before I started..... Gandale attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Vice-Master        Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/11/2012 Posts: 863 Points: 2,608 Location: Gohfeld (Germany)
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Hi Alan! Agree, the new color looks very nice, much better than the dark! Regards, Bernd
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der Gohfelder wrote:Hi Alan! Agree, the new color looks very nice, much better than the dark!
Regards, Bernd Thanks Bernd, haven't changed the colour though, have just sanded to make it a lot lighter.... happier now than I was.... Regards Alan
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 Rank: Master    Groups: Registered
Joined: 15/04/2010 Posts: 1,266 Points: 3,841 Location: The Quantock Hills,Somerset
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Definitely an improvement Rob Nolli Illigitimi Carborundum!!!Current Builds: HMS Victory, SV Thermopylae
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 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 1,400 Points: 4,690 Location: Beaminster, Dorset
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Looks good I might try that technique, of a Dark Stain then sanding back.
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 Hi Gandale .Looking good .I would just use Danish oil and not varnish .Regards Martyn Building ? Completed. Soliei Royal . Sovereign of the Seas . Virginia . Scotland . San Felipe . Corel vasa , Santisima Trinadad X section , Vasa Next Build ? When sailors have good wine, They think themselves in heaven for the time. John Baltharpe
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 Hi Alan A definate improvement there on the deck, another way to go with staining is artists inks but these are more substitutes for main colours. Hope this helps regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 8,520 Points: 24,651 Location: East midlands
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Hi Alan, That must have been a lot of hard work, but I think time well spent even if on a deck that won`t be seen very much.A vast improvement if I might say so. A lesson learned for the good, for us all. Keep it going Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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I don't think it will be seen at all - unless you plan to cut the upper deck under the gratings and get a little light in there. Good practice though.
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Dontshootme wrote:Definitely an improvement Thanks Rob, agree with you but not quite finished with it yet.... more to come... Regards Alan
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