Captn,
I had some serious problems with initial deliveries, but I then waited for a few weeks when we got to the planking section to my benefit in the end.
My deliveries have now settled to about 5 weeks behind and it does give me the chance to see what`s going on with other build`s.
I understand you started late but when things settle down you`ll have more than enough to keep you busy, don`t lose heart or patience it will be worth the wait.

Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)

Decided to do the anchor from Issue 3.

Painted the metal parts with a black car spray from the 99p store. No primer required and it's a good finish but by goodness does it pong! Left outside for hours before I could bring it in.

Two changes to the official instructions on making up the stock.

First, the cutting plan asks for 2 pieces of 26mm on a long piece of 55mm - leaving a gap for the anchor of 3mm. But the anchor is less than 2mm thick where it goes into the slot, so that would be a very sloppy fit. I had already cut the pieces before realising this.

Also the instructions call for a round file to deepen the slot, while the anchor is a rectangular section, so this would add to the bad fit.

A change of plan was needed, to get a tight rectangular slot. I didn't think that superglue (recommended to fit the anchor to the stock) was going to fill the gap. Superglue joints should usually be tight.

First off, mark the dead centre of one long piece, then glue one short piece just under 1mm off that mark. I used the first piece I had cut, with a dead square end (the selvedge). Let it dry and then fit the other short piece - first squaring the end by lapping it on fine sandpaper (P180). Using the anchor itself as a guide to the fit, glue and clamp then remove the anchor while the glue sets.

Next, deepen the slot. Dry-fitting the anchor shows that no more than 1mm extra room is needed, so just a tiny bit from each long piece. To keep the slot rectangular I used the little backsaw given to us free with issue 1. Very gentle strokes with absolutely no downwards pressure on the blade. A stroke on the left of the slot, then on the right, to keep the slot square; then the diagonals to remove the centre waste.

Then a dry-fit to see that I have removed half of the amount needed, before doing the same to the other long piece, very slowly until the dry-fit is perfect.

The second change was in the shaping of the stock. I was researching to look at the issue of winding cotton (ie rope) around the ring. While I couldn't find anything on that, I did find an article that suggested that only the TOP edge of the stock should be flat. The bottom and SIDES should be shaped to thin out towards the ends.

http://www.biganchorproj...=article&id=12:st..

So that is what I did. Bottom edge done first as per the magazine instructions, then the side shaping just by lapping on sandpaper. At the ends, the long pieces are sanded to nothing.

Then glue up. I messed up at first by superglueing it in upside down! The flat edge is the top edge.

The final clamping needs to have end-on clamps at the tips or they will not hold squarely on the curve.

Then a final sand-up. Excess glue removed with a Stanley knife - not digging in like a plane but drawing across with the sharp edge towards you and the blade pushed away from you. That article suggested that the stock should be of two pieces, not three, so I didn't want the glued joints to show and give it away. A careful sanding top and bottom, plus the edges and the tips rounded.

No decision yet on the finish. I think it should be oak-coloured then maybe varnished, with a trenail/bolt effect and metal banding rather that the rope suggested by the magazine.

Thanks Alan.
I'm just a newbie!

Nice looking Anchor

interested to see how you progress with the build

J

Hi David good stuff Kind regards Mike

Researching the anchor. Useful discussions on here, especially on the Victory anchors. Yes I know they are a later date but similar.

The supplied ring is definitely too small. Karl's tutorial shows a new one made of brass wire - good idea. I thought of using a paperclip, just because I won't have to go out and buy anything. Also, I found my paint didn't take on brass too well.

I will add the "puddening" as well but some of the ring might show so I will spray it black first.

Thanks Karl. I am still pondering on this one.

Looking at the real Victory's anchors, the ring diameter looks about twice the thickness of the stock. The supplied one on this model is the same size, 7mm. It just doesn't look hefty enough.

Still not sure what do do the puddening with. The original would have been tarred scraps of sailcloth. If I paint over it with an oil paint I suppose any material will do. Then the siezings in white cotton perhaps? A bit fiddly.

Thanks Jason.
I will have to do some experimenting!

The puddening will be re-done. It is far too thick for the scale and almost impossible to do the cotton seizing on! I think I overlapped each turn too much. Never mind.
And I've broken my needle threader - grrr

Anchor banding done and first coat of paint.

I cut the plastic strip thinner, to about 2/3 the size, under 2mm, and it looks more in scale.

The paintjob needs tidying and a second coat.