Hi Andy i used citadels graveyard brown base colour...with a dry brush of graveyard brown/bleached bone ....highlight on the wheel edges is gb/bb...a lighter shade using more bleached bone....a similar effect can be done using enamels....

John...

I used the walnut brown too and it looks fine to me Of course I'm colourblind so I have to rely on other to point out my colour matching errors

I have used deck tan it is paleer than brown and more closly represents the bleached wood colour. i gave mine a brown wash after see first wooden ship build diary for results and actual cannon pics.

hope that helps

Are we asking about the shade, highlights or mid-tones?

Generally speaking, I find it best to look at a photo of the real thing and try to match the colour.

The wheels of the gun carriages were made of wood (so, some shade of brown then), these would then become bleached-out, to a certain degree, by sun and whatever the crew used to swab the decks.

Jase (see his build diary) has gone for this more accurate 'weathered' appearance and it looks quite effective whilst I have chosen a darker, deeper, slightly redish brown with highlighted edges and shading since it looks nice.

If you want to get the nicest look, you have to stop thinking about colours being one dimensional - look at a pair of jeans for example, the material may have started out in a uniform indigo blue, but washing, being exposed to the sun and general wear and tear will have caused certain areas to become lighter - the deeper areas of the seams will still appear in the original colour, folds and creases are varying shades of blue as well.

There is a lot to think about - but it's worth getting your head around.

in reply to cannon wheel colour I have just been on the www.boatmodelling.com site and there are loads and loads of photos of H.M.S Victory which may be very useful .Well worth a look

Snowtiger and Dedworth both have very valid points.

For the best effects, weathering and advanced painting techniques should be (from a logical point of view) applied over the whole model - which is fine if you plan on spending a vast number of extra build hours in addition to the already vast number of build hours that this model will take.

Simply by painting your model neatly and smoothly in 'flat colours' (eg, one shade of colour), will give you a very tidy looking model - you don't have to go to extremes.

take it u mean admiralty paints
yellow ochre no # on jar
dull black ap9105w
red ochre no # on jar
olive green ap9118w
matt metal black no # on jar
french blue ap9117w
matt white ap9111w
copper ap9126w
gold/brass ap9125w
wood walnut brown ap9119w
u can get a cross reference chart from model shops for humbrol revell tamiya equivalents but not admiralty

John,

Just to complete the missing part numbers on budgie's list:

Yellow Ochre = AP9115W
Red Ochre = AP9116W
Matt (Metal) Black = AP9106W