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That'll be the Front, Centre, Rear and Catapult Sets I guess  you would be spot on   “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Hi Jase As always the etch makes all the difference, Top work keep the pic's coming regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 1,400 Points: 4,690 Location: Beaminster, Dorset
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Hi Jase, Can I ask, what do you prime your etch with?
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court orchard wrote:Hi Jase,
Can I ask, what do you prime your etch with? Hi Andy, All depends on the application and the etch. I use Humbrol number 1 grey primer for enamel paint as a rule but only on larger small parts if that makes sense  . smaller parts with fine detail i tend to just paint without priming so i don't lose the detail. if the etch is part of a larger construction then I may prime the whole thing in one go I use Halfords white primer for that, but again may add the finer detail later. In the last few years I have moved away from Acrylic paints, although you can get a more even brushed surface and they are less noxious there not as hardy and i have had problems with thinning and multi coating, I find they clog more easy, my way of working is to paint components before assembling. I tend to spend a moment planning the build of each sub assembly and decide what is being painted when and if I will prime or not. Generally i find there is less need to prime enamel paints that are more hardy than acrylics . I did not prime the ships boats at all, usually I would have primed the deck parts and not the smaller detail. This time however I wanted the brass to come through the thinned paint a little to give a wood type depth which I think worked well, The deck paint was quite thin so had three coats thinned at 6 parts paint to 1 part thinner. the reveal (grey) paint has a much higher viscosity so was thinned at 2 parts to 1 and only needed two coats. Hope that helps J “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 1,400 Points: 4,690 Location: Beaminster, Dorset
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Thanks Jase, I didn't expect such a comprehensive answer . I'm planning on Airbrushing most of the build and am thinking of a Tamiya primer followed by Acrylics from Lifecolor with possibly a protective sealer, maybe Purity Seal from Citadel (mainly because I have a large can). The detail on the Mk1 Etch is so fantastic, i think my brushwork would mask too much of it.
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 Rank: Elite   Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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court orchard wrote:Thanks Jase, I didn't expect such a comprehensive answer . I'm planning on Airbrushing most of the build and am thinking of a Tamiya primer followed by Acrylics from Lifecolor with possibly a protective sealer, maybe Purity Seal from Citadel (mainly because I have a large can). The detail on the Mk1 Etch is so fantastic, i think my brushwork would mask too much of it. If your going to be airbrushing then i would suggest ZeroPaints Micro white and Grey Primer... goes a hell of a long way and will not hide any detail.. Tamiya primer tends to be "thicker".. Just a suggestion from Experience
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court orchard wrote:Thanks Jase, I didn't expect such a comprehensive answer . I'm planning on Airbrushing most of the build and am thinking of a Tamiya primer followed by Acrylics from Lifecolor with possibly a protective sealer, maybe Purity Seal from Citadel (mainly because I have a large can). The detail on the Mk1 Etch is so fantastic, i think my brushwork would mask too much of it. I usually dry brush fine detail like grills etc. so far my experiance with an airbrush has meant bining the model  always got lots of spatter although thinking about it only ever used it with Acrylics. i might buy a cheep airfix kit to have a play  “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 1,400 Points: 4,690 Location: Beaminster, Dorset
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jase wrote:court orchard wrote:Thanks Jase, I didn't expect such a comprehensive answer . I'm planning on Airbrushing most of the build and am thinking of a Tamiya primer followed by Acrylics from Lifecolor with possibly a protective sealer, maybe Purity Seal from Citadel (mainly because I have a large can). The detail on the Mk1 Etch is so fantastic, i think my brushwork would mask too much of it. I usually dry brush fine detail like grills etc. so far my experiance with an airbrush has meant bining the model always got lots of spatter although thinking about it only ever used it with Acrylics. i might buy a cheep airfix kit to have a play Yeah I've had splatter too, but with a bit of practice and the right thinning it, for me anyway, gave superior results. I've just upgraded my compressor to a tanked one and that gives a much more constant feed without the pulsing effect I had with the old one. The last thing I Airbrushed was some Warhammer 40K Floating Tank Thing  and it gave really good results.
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spent the whole of last night cross refrencing my Kit instructions with my two etch set instructions and my now huge pic refrance libary. I am now ready to start removing the plastic that I am replacing with etch and planning any scratch build materials. I have drawn a line on spending for this kit so wont be buying any more upgrades - probably  “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 1,400 Points: 4,690 Location: Beaminster, Dorset
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Did you spot the missing View Port at the front of the Foretop Artillery Post.
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court orchard wrote:Did you spot the missing View Port at the front of the Foretop Artillery Post. oow no have you got a pic please “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 1,400 Points: 4,690 Location: Beaminster, Dorset
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Now this is interesting, Anatomy of the Ship shows it clearly on Pg63. However it's not on the Kagero Drawings or Pictures. Because it's right at the top under the FUMO Radar, it's obscured from the deck so it's not visible in any photos I have been able to find. It's the part C2. It makes sense that it would be there otherwise they would've had no view directly forward.  
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[quote=court orchard]Now this is interesting, Anatomy of the Ship shows it clearly on Pg63. However it's not on the Kagero Drawings or Pictures. Because it's right at the top under the FUMO Radar, it's obscured from the deck so it's not visible in any photos I have been able to find. It's the part C2. It makes sense that it would be there otherwise they would've had no view directly forward. Yes I think it should be there. had a quick look at some Tirpitz pics online and you can see a forward slot on her and in a couple of Bismarck picks when i expand you can just make a out a shadow or something slightly darker. “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/09/2012 Posts: 1,400 Points: 4,690 Location: Beaminster, Dorset
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jase wrote:[quote=court orchard]Now this is interesting, Anatomy of the Ship shows it clearly on Pg63. However it's not on the Kagero Drawings or Pictures. Because it's right at the top under the FUMO Radar, it's obscured from the deck so it's not visible in any photos I have been able to find.
It's the part C2.
It makes sense that it would be there otherwise they would've had no view directly forward.
Yes I think it should be there. had a quick look at some Tirpitz pics online and you can see a forward slot on her and in a couple of Bismarck picks when i expand you can just make a out a shadow or something slightly darker. I agree definitely there on the Tirpitz on 2 photos in Breyer and Skwiot. As you say there are a few photos taken from a distance of the Bismarck were there's something there, but not good enough resolution to resolve into a slot. It's on several other drawings in the Anatomy Book too.
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Hi Jase I have some references to it on my plans and im pretty sure Ballards book has an eye view picture not an artists inpresion of this area with the forward position fittings in place the scope part being shot away so just the hole left regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/03/2011 Posts: 1,344 Points: 4,079 Location: Bryanston, Johannesburg. RSA
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Lovely stuff there Jase. You obviously put a lot of thought into this and have the patience of a saint. Rgds, Hans
"It's okay to make mistakes. mistakes are our teachers - they help us to to learn, even if it is painfully"
Current Build:
Endeavour Cross section,D51
Completed: HMS Victory
Under the bench: Endeavour x 2,Sovereign of the Seas, Akagi and The Black Pearl!HMS Victory Cross Section
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Hans wrote:Lovely stuff there Jase. You obviously put a lot of thought into this and have the patience of a saint. Thanks Hans, yes i do put a lot of thought in, not sure about the patience though “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Guest (3)
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