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Rank: Administration  Groups: Administrator, Administrators, Forum Support Team, Global Forum Support, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 1,927 Points: 5,803 Location: UK
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Santísima Trinidad
The Nuestra Senora de la Santisima Trinidad (Our Lady of the Most Holy Trinity) was originally built as a 3 deck 112-gun ship. She was built and launched in Havana in 1769, and was considerably larger than her British contemporary HMS Victory.
Her gun number was increased in 1795 to 136 guns by closing the spar deck between the quarterdeck and forecastle, thus creating a fourth gun deck although the extra guns added were relatively small.
She was the heaviest-armed ship in the world when rebuilt, bore the most guns of any ship of the line and was reputed to be the largest warship in the world.
But although this change made her look most impressive, it also considerably worsened her sailing qualities and stability, and therefore tended to be a liability in battle rather than an advantage, leading to the nickname "El Poderoso".
Trinidad was an obvious 'trophy' for the British, who made very determined attempts to capture her. She was an unforgettable sight, which Lieutenant William Lovell serving on HMS Neptune at Trafalgar described as, "besides Trinidad having four gun decks, her sides were painted, with four distinct lines of red, with a white ribbon between them".
Reference books indicate that prior to the Battle of Trafalgar she had the more usual yellow/buff colour similar to HMS Victory.
Her first large-scale battle was off Cape St Vincent in 1797. Here she was under fire for five hours, at one time with four British ships at once, and was very severely damaged, with an appalling casualty list. But she escaped capture, was repaired, and reconstructed.
In this guise she was again very heavily engaged in the Battle of Trafalgar.
This time, Trinidad was less fortunate. She was once again set upon by a concentration of British ships and eventually surrendered to HMS Neptune, commanded by Nelson's close friend Captain Thomas Fremantle.
HMS Prince took Trinidad in tow and headed for Gilbralter to exhibit the ship as a trophy, but in her damaged condition, with water in the hold, the great storm after the battle sealed the fate of one of the greatest ship's in the world, the Trinidad sank.
Armament:
Lower deck 34 x 36-pdrs
Middle deck 34 x 24-pdrs
Upper deck 34 x 12-pdrs
Quarterdeck 19 x 8-pdrs
Forecastle 6 x 4-pdrs
= 126 guns, which were augmented by ten 24-pdr obusters (howitzers), making a total of 136. Single shotted she could fire a total weight of 1.43 tons of metal. There is also reference that at some point Trinidad may have carried 140 guns.
Crew: 1,048 (naval 604, infantry 382, marine artillery 62). Her crew was 42% military but overall, and unusually for a Spanish ship at Trafalgar, slightly under full compliment.
The Trinidad wreck is believed to have been discovered in 2009: http://www.km.kongsberg....AB0039A2D9?OpenDocomeent
Other information:
Original plans of the 4-deck version of Trinidad no longer exist. However, plans do exist of the original 112-gun ship from 1765, from which the original dimensions of the ship can be found, which combined with contemporary sources, such as paintings and drawings of how the ship looked in its 4-decker guise, a model can be produced.
A unique 1:25 scale four-metre-long replica was completed in 2012, which has interior details exposed on one side of the vessel. The model is on display at the 'Castillo de la Real Fuerza' Havana: http://www.friendsofsant...atrinidad.org/index.htm
In 2006 a full-size 'representation' of Trinidad was built from the hull of a current day merchant ship which was fitted out to mimic the appearance of Trinidad, therefore not being a true replica. The steel hull was given a cladding of wooden strakes, masts added along with a stern gallery, deck furniture and rigging. The original diesel engine was retained, making the ship able to cruise around the vicinity of Malaga, and is generally moored in the harbour of Alicante, where it is used as a floating restaurant
The Santísima Trinidad remains famous as being the only four-deck first rate ship of the line ever built, which was reputedly the largest warship in the world!
The Santisma Ship model & Cross Section kit:
http://www.model-space.c.../san_trin_info_pack.pdf
Scale: 1:90
Ship dimensions: Length 1060mm. Height: 876mm. Width 415mm
The Ship kit features a double plank-on-bulkhead construction (with dark wood outerlayer) and uses a variety of hardwoods. It has water-jet cut wooden framework parts, pre-cut gun ports, burnished metal gun carriages & gun ports, turned pillars, metal canon, laser-cut gratings, brass chain, die-cast transom & figurehead, photo-etched brass beakhead rails, ornamentations are faithful reproductions of the originals, assorted rigging threads, stitched sail set & silk-screened flags. The ship's boats are built as plank-on-frame mini builds. A pin-pusher tool is also included. A display stand is also provided as part of the collection.
The collection also includes the construction of a Santisima Trinidad Cross-Section
The cross-section features water-jet cut wooden parts and a variety of hardwoods. The fittings include gratings, blocks & deadyes, wooden barrels, brass eyebolts, belaying pins, nails and chain, metal hoops, cleats and gun-ports, ballast, brass gun barrels, burnished metal gun carriages, turned brass canon, rigging threads, hand-sewn sail set and silk-screened flags. A wooden display base and nameplate are also included.
Scale 1:90 - Dimensions: Length 90mm. Height 876mm. Width 415mm
Construction of the cross-section starts in Pack 4.
The assembly guide contains clear, step-by-step instructions, accompanied by detailed photos, to make building your model as easy as possible.
Available here: https://www.model-space....model-ships/page/2.html
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 1 - Contains the bow false keel section, rib #2, deck planks and anchors
Note - The official build will not follow the sequence of instructions of constructing the cross-sectio en between the ship constructions, but will construct the ship first and follow with the construction of the cross-section at the end of the ship construction, and will not maintain pace with the subscription roll-out.
On receipt of parts, you should label each parts pack with the instructions stage number for each pack.
Let's get started - Use sandpaper to gently remove any splinters from the wooden parts, use a pencil to lightly mark the rib number onto each rib as it is provided.
Use a good quality PVA wood glue or Aliphatic resin glue for the assembly of wooden parts, and use Superglue or Epoxy for the assembly of any metal parts.
Start by taking rib #2 and the bow false heel section. Identify slot #2 in the false keel, test fit the rib into the slot, but do not force into place if it is too tight, ease the slot with a fine file or sand paper. The fit should be snug but not loose.
Apply glue into the rib and keel slot, and slide the rib into place. Ensure that the rib it is fully seated into its slot and that it is set at a right-angle to the keel.
Cut the decking planks to a length of 65mm, Use a pencil or permanent black marker pen, to calk one side edge of the planks as shown.
Take the bow deck half, and glue/fit the planks in the pattern shown to cover the entire deck section. Cut off the excess then use a pencil to nail mark the planks at the jointsl.
Take the anchor parts. Glue the stock to each anchor as shown. If you wish, you can paint the anchor stock, 'wood brown', but leave the stock bands black.
That's it for this stage, carefully store the anchors and store the remaining planking and off-cuts.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 2 - Contains the a bow deck half, Ribs 2 & 3 and deck planks.
Take rib #1, test-fit, then glue and fit it into slot 1 of the false keel. Ensure that it is fully seated and set at a right-angle to the keel. (Its bottom edge should protrude beyond the keel).
GLue and fit rib #3 into slot 3.
Apply deck planking to the second half of the bow deck as you did before.
Temporarily fit both deck halves together to check that the planks align.
That's it for this stage.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 3 - Contains rib #4, false keel section, reinforcements, bowsprit deck section and wooden strips.
Test-fit, then glue and fit rib #4 into slot 4 on the false keel. Ensure that it is set at a right-angle to the keel and fully seated in its slot.
Take the reinforcement pieces, apply glue and fit so that their slots align with slot #5 on the keel, but do not cover the slot. The pieces should be flush with the top of the keel. When happy with the their position, clamp them in place and be sure to remove any excess glue from the slot between, which may obscure the fitting of the next keel section.
Apply glue to the middle false keel section and slide into place between the reinforments, its top edge must follow that of the previous keel section and be parallel to it, when happy with the fit clamp the reinforcements to secure the keel length in place. Set aside while the glue fully sets.
If you wish, you can cut off the two bottom of keel tabs, which are intended as clamping points to hold the famework. You will then be able to sit your keel into a self made keel jig to keep your keel straight during the framework assembly process, in a similar way to that of the HMS Victory build and Sovereign of the Seas model builds.
Take a 5x5mm beam strip, place it across the gap of rib #2 as shown, mark and cut it to length then glue in place across the span.
That's it for this stage.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 4 - Contains ribs 5 & 6, the lower deck and a wooden beam strip.
Take rib #5, test-fit into the reinforcement slot on the keel (slot 5), do not force it into place if it is over tight. If need be, carefully ease the slot with a fine file or sandpaper. When you are satisfied with the fit, glue the rib in place. Ensure it is propelry seated in the slot and set at a right-angle to the keel.
Lower deck - I first marked the deck with a central line along the dck length, and also central lines across the deck from slot to slot.
Test-fit the deck in place, when happy with the fit, apply glue to the tops of the frames and fit it in place. I secured the deck along the drawn lines with a few pin-nails to ensure it was fully seated upon the frames, though instead, you can weight it down. Ensure that the lengthwise central line of the deck is aligned centrally with the keel.
Apply glue to rib #6 and fit into place at slot 6, again ensure it is square to the keel and is fully seated.
Cut, fit and glue 5x5mm deck beams to fit the lower deck span of frames 3, 4 and 5.
Test-fit the bow deck halves as shown, then glue them in place. Ensure that the deck halves are fully seated upon the beams.
That's it for this stage.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 5 - Contains the forecastle deck, reinforcements, deck planks and a wooden beam strip.
Cut and glue a length of 5x5mm strip to fit across the span of rib #3 as shown. Then repeat at rib #4.
Plank the forecastle deck, but Do Not plank the entire section, you also need plank over the frame slot gaps of this deck section.
Start by drawing a central line on the deck, then cut, calk, and apply the 65mm long decking strips to the deck as shown.
Test-fit the deck in place, then apply glue to the corresponding beams and fit the deck in place. Ensure that it is fully seated upon each beam.
Remove the reinforcement pieces from the plywood fret. Test-fit each piece between ribs 1 and 2 as shown. Adjust the pieces if necessary, then apply glue and clamp each piece in place on both sides of the false keel as shown.
That's it for this stage. Retain any left over planking for later use.
Despatch 2 contains:
6 - Ribs 7 & 8 and keel reinforcements.
7 - Stern false keel section and rib #9.
8 - Rib #10, lower deck halves and wooden strips.
9 - Rib #11, central deck halves and deck planks.
10- Rib #12, stern lower deck and wooden strips.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 6 - Contains ribs 7 & 8 and keel reinforcements.
Test fit rib #7 then glue it into its corresponding slot on the false keel. Ensure it is fully seated and set at a right-angle to the keel.
Glue both keel reinforcements onto the false keel as before.
Take the bowsprit deck provided at stage 3.
Mark a centre line, then take a planking strip, caulk one edge, then and cut cut and glue plank sections onto the deck across its length, but do not plank over the end tabs.
When the glue has set, sand the plank edges smooth to follow the deck shape, then glue the deck into its tab slots at the bow.
Thats it for this stage, carefully store rib #8 until the next stage.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 7 - Contains the stern false keel section and rib #9.
Test-fit the stern false keel, then apply glue into the reinforcement jont and joint end of the false keel, then fit the keel into the joint.
Ensure that the top surface of the keel runs level with the rest of the keel then clamp the reinforcements and set aside until the glue has fully set.
If you want to set your keel into a keel jig, you can opt to cut-off the two tabs positioned along the bottom of the keel, as these only act as clamping points, which will be cut-off later in the build.
Test-fit then glue rib #8 in place at the reinforcement joint, ensure it is fully seated and set at a right-angle to the keel.
Repeat to fit rib #9.
Sand flush the forecastle deck front, then glue strips of planking along the front surface.
Cut away the planking which covers bowsprit entry hole and file the hole to shape.
That's it for this stage.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 8 - Contains the lower central deck halves, rib #10 and wooden deck beam strips.
I marked frame centre lines on the deck sections.Then test-fitted the deck halves into the framework. Glue them in place so that they are aligned., I opted to pin the decks along the central line of the frames. I also added deck support pieces cut from scrap, beneath the deck joint lines.
Test-fit then glue ribs #10 and #11 in place., ensure that both are fully seated into their slots and set at a right angle to the keel.
Cut the deck beam strips to span the lower knee beam supports of ribs 6, 7 and 8, then glue them in place.
That's it this stage, store the remaining beam strip.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 9 - Contains rib #11, cenral dec sectiuons and deck planking.
Take the central deck halves and mark central line across the frame slots.
Test-fit then glue the deck halves onto the support beams as shown.
Take the deck planking, and continue to plank the deck just laid with 65mm long planks to leave a staggered aft end.
Cut the planking from the grating and mast hole as you go.
That's it this stage.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 10 - Contains rib #12, stern lower deck and deck support beams. Carefully store gallery deck part #12. Take the stern deck, and mark central lines across its frame slots and along the centreline. Test-fit then glue it in place. (I added scrapwood deck supports on the underside at the joint lines). Take frame #11 (provided with stage 9), test-fit then glue it into the stern slot as shown, ensure it is fully seated and set at a right angle to the keel. Cut and fit and glue, 5x5mm beam supports to span the lower beam suports of frames 9 & 10. This completes this stage. Despatch 3 contains:
11 - Reinforcement pieces, stern deck sections and deck planks. 12 - The middle section of the main deck, deck planks and a bulkhead. 13 - The poop deck and stern main deck halves. 14 - False keel reinforcements, hardwood strips and deck planks. 15 - Lower deck gun port panels and dummy gun mounts. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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