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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2   Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/05/2011 Posts: 75 Points: 227 Location: N.Ireland
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Hi Guys Do not use Tamiya TS-13 on your model as a clear coat. It looks brilliant at first but after a few months under LED lighting(No heat) and in a display case the paint work has started to crystal. This was applied in fine even coats as advised but still has had adverse effects on my model. It looks like I may have to strip down and respray.  So Be warned!
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2   Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/05/2011 Posts: 75 Points: 227 Location: N.Ireland
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Any suggestions would be grateful.
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 Rank: Elite        Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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Dave.. many times we said not to use Tamiya TS-13 as its not aqueous!! I don't see any mention of it being advised either... some may have tried it and said it works but they will have the same problems in time. I can offer to respray for you but you will have to get a new batch of Decals etc or you can have a go at doing it yourself.. pm me if you need help Spence
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2   Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/05/2011 Posts: 75 Points: 227 Location: N.Ireland
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Might just need your expertise Spencer. File Attachment(s): davyp1 attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2   Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/05/2011 Posts: 75 Points: 227 Location: N.Ireland
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Hi You will see from my completed model a few weeks ago that this has got worse over time. I can only assume that the model that took 1 year plus to build will be destroyed in a few months by the TS-13 spray. Spencer I would be grateful if you could PM me a price for respraying. Kind regards.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Davy,
There has been lengthy and numerous discussions in this forum about the type of clear coat to use for this model, where the DeAgostini advice was to use an aqueous (waterbased) clear coat, such as the "MR Hobby B501" aerosol product. Its also been stated a number of times that TS-13 is not an aqueous product.
You will find one or two members that tested the TS-13 product on front nose parts and reported success, though it is good to have you warning about your experience of having used it. However, you will notice in your copy that I said it could damage paintwork, and I have also mentioned in many instances about using an aqueous clearcoat and the Mr Hobby product, also my diary build provides a link to the PDF information about "glossing your model" which is noted at Issue 78 of my build..
http://forum.model-space...aspx?g=posts&t=4830
DeAgostini provided specific "Glossing the car" information within the PDF, which is posted as a sticky at the top of the McLaren discussion page, which states to use a waterbased clearcoat..
http://forum.model-space...aspx?g=posts&t=5133
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2   Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/05/2011 Posts: 75 Points: 227 Location: N.Ireland
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Tomick I tested the spray on spares before going for the whole model and it seemed fine. I'm not playing the blame game here just stating that this only started after being under the lighting. It was in a big drawer for months with no reaction. Regards.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Hi Davy,
I thought I had read somewhere that you had tested and all seeemed okay, but its good that you highlighted the aftermath., but a real shame that its tainted your hard work.
Hopefully Spence can put it right for you, if anyone can then he can, and look forward to seeing it..
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 Rank: Elite        Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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davyp1 wrote:Hi You will see from my completed model a few weeks ago that this has got worse over time. I can only assume that the model that took 1 year plus to build will be destroyed in a few months by the TS-13 spray. Spencer I would be grateful if you could PM me a price for respraying. Kind regards. PM Sent mate
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,739 Points: 14,363 Location: ipswich
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I've used a 2K clear coat on my large scale E Type Jaguar and the finish is amazing. A large rattle can is around £9 delivered, goes on in a very fine mist, seems impossible to make the stuff run and dries in 10 minutes, like glass. I'm tried it on my built-up front wing/nose. DON'T USE IT!!!! It turned the silver a dull mottled grey - totally wrecked. Fortunately, it was my 'spare' front wing. Amazing gloss though........
Roy.
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 Rank: Elite        Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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All Gloss's are good for the right aplication and putting anything apart from an aqueous gloss on any metalic paint that contains fine particles of either silver, gold etc will be affected.. it may not be obvious at first but over time it will react... I've done enough testing with the McLaren and other builds to know and lucky i have had spare parts to test.. I will always do research and testing on any paint before i apply a finish because once you start theres no going back. I think it would be a good idea to have some sticky's for "DO'S" and "DONT'S" for those that have as of yet to either start theres or are going to be getting it in there country. This will be a great help as there is a lot of info all over the McLaren build but being able to find the right solution means trawling through pages of posts... I'll see if Tomick thinks its a good Idea and then see if i can add stuff that Admin can "Stickie" Also For those that are following my Senna Tribute build will notice that I have not updated for some time and the reason behind that is because there had been a reaction to the 2 types of paint being used and I did not notice this until after about a week.. The paint had "shrunk" over that time and pulled the MP4 red away leaving cracks bigger than the Grand Canyon!!! So it goes to show that anything can happen to anyone.. whatever the experience.. All is not lost as I have completely stripped it down and its given me chance to completely re-modify it to the point you would not know it was based on the McLaren.... I'll post pictures up tonight of what I am aiming for and what i have achieved so far Dave don't dispair mate... we will get it sorted
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2   Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/05/2011 Posts: 75 Points: 227 Location: N.Ireland
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Hi Thanks for the very generous offer again Spencer.I must be the only person on here that cant apply this klear polish. I applied with soft brush first of all but this didnt leave a even coat and milkly stains present.I tried again with a cloth and this worked better but as appling it was catching everything I was trying to avoid. 1st I knocked off the orange fuel cover ring then caught the rod up the side off the engine cover and took it half off. At this stage Im thinking just put it back on the shelf.I think I can live with this at the minute.Ive attached 2 photos as requested. 1 under lights and the other under natural light. Cant see anything wrong with the model in natural light. Alougth I would love this model resprayed by yourself spencer I would feel that it wasnt mine anymore if you know what I mean. So ill leave it for now.But if I wanted to start and respray myself could you answer a few questions. 1.What product would I use to strip the existing decals and paint work? 2.How would you remove glue on parts to allow access for a good paint job? Thanks again.D Patterson
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 Rank: Elite        Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
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If you want me to be blatently upfront Dave I would say Ditch the LED's. Under normal light I see nothing wrong and to be honest the amount of work your going to undertake to remove what can only be seen under artificial light, could in theory render you with something you wish you had not started but at the end of the day it's your model and ultimately your decision.. To answer your question about paint removal.. I use Brake fluid.. parts soaked overnight or for a day completely submerged.. this will not attack the ABS plastic and will take it right back but will give a slight "milky" effect to it. Once done then you need to "prime" all the ABS and using 4000 micromesh go over every part to remove any imperfections.. Remember this is only for the SILVER ABS parts.. any ABS glue can be gently filed off with needle file etc and any CA (superglue) can also be filed off.. cleaned up and prepped ready for respraying... A lot of work Dave and if you want to send over just the silver parts rather than the whole thing then my offer still stands but you will be able to rebuild and Decal yourself..so in affect your still doing the model rather than me... Spence
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2   Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/05/2011 Posts: 75 Points: 227 Location: N.Ireland
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Thanks Spence. This may be an option. Ill observe the model over the next couple of weeks and keep you posted.
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 Rank: Vice-Master     Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/08/2011 Posts: 629 Points: 1,963 Location: Plymouth
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 It has got to said, that Spence does not get enough credit for all the help he offers on here. I think it is so kind for him to help anyone that may be in trouble with their model building and the tips are invaluable. Even though he has some problems with his own Senna model at the moment! (Can't wait to see it finished)!!!!Where do you find the time Spence?? Do you have a time machine!  I think I may avoid the clear coat on my model, as I think it looks pretty shiny already and I hope to add LED lighting to my display case when it is finshed! It would be a shame to see 2 years work ruined just to make the car a little more shiny. Chris
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2   Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/05/2011 Posts: 75 Points: 227 Location: N.Ireland
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Well said Chris. To take the time and effort for people is outstanding.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Totally agree - well done Spencer, you're a great guy!!!   
Kev
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