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Rank: Administration  Groups: Administrator, Administrators, Forum Support Team, Global Forum Support, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 1,928 Points: 5,796 Location: UK
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Gentlemen (and ladies!), start your engines!
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Hummer H1
The Hummer H1 was a civilian four wheel-drive off-road vehicle based on the M998 Humvee which was originally designed for military use.
Due to popular demand, the H1 was released to the civilian market in 1992 as a result of its appearance in 'Operation Desert Storm' and the enthusiastic actor/ex-politician Arnold Schwarzenegger, who owns several variants of Hummer vehicle.
Overview of the Hummer H1 R/C model:
Official and exclusively licensed radio-controlled model manufacturd by Kyosho.
1/8 scale: Height: 220mm, Width: 275mm, Legth: 570mm
Model spec: 4-wheel drive. 50mm ground clearance. Disc brake. Independent suspension via four sprung hydraulic dampers. Flip top fuel tank. Metal exhaust manifold. Centrifugal clutch. Black anodised aluminium chassis plates. Authentic tread pattern rubber tyres. It also has a geared hub reduction system like the real thing,which multiplies torque inside each wheel, (The Mercedes-Benz Unimog is one of the only other vehicles to offer this crawling-friendly feature).
The rugged body parts made of high-impact polystyrene (rather than polycarbonate), which is so the body panels can feature all the fine detail of the original, and still withstand the rigours of off-road driving.
Kyosho GX21 3.5cc 1.8hp nitro engine with recoil pull-start and air filter, (the engine is supplied in kit form).
Radio-control system is supplied with the kit content.
Further items are required for the operation of this model: Nitro fuel (15-25%) and a Glo-start.
See the Hummer in action here: http://www.youtube.com/w...&videos=rJriJ20JufA
Hummer info PDF: http://www.model-space.c...57/hummer_info_pack.pdf
Official video build:
https://www.youtube.com/...ph0kjuvIW7qVpFr9kHEcyFB
File Attachment(s):  P4.jpg (842kb) downloaded 166 time(s). P5.jpg (796kb) downloaded 118 time(s). P7.jpg (784kb) downloaded 113 time(s). Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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The official build will follow that of the instructions download, and will not include any enhancement to the base build. You are of course free to build and and finish your model how you so choose.
Note: Official build diary images & text are protected under UK copyright law, we reserve all rights for their use. Permission to copy these outside of this forum must be requested in writing. Stage 1 - Contains the front grille, grille mesh, wheel, gear holder 46T gear, hub cap numbplate decal and screws.
You will need a size 2 Phillips screwdriver.
Fit the gear holder into the 46T gear as shown, and secure with three screws, tigtening them equally to pull the holder into the gear without twist. Do not overtighten the screws.
Temporarily fit the grille mesh to the rear of the front grille as shown. If it is too tight a fit then dont force it, but ease the fit around the joints point using a fine file or 800 grit wet and dry paper..
That's it for this stage, carefully store the remaining parts.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 2 - Contains the bonnet, radiator cover, bonnet air filter parts, bonnet hooks and decal set.
You will need glue suited to polystyrene plastic.
Remove the grille mesh from the grille.
Test-fit the front grille into the bonnet, making sure that you engage the projection at both ends. Apply glue along the joint and hold the parts together until the glue takes hold.
Temprarily fit the radiator cover in place and secure with masking tape on the inside.
Fit the boonet hooks by pressing them into place, then fit the air filter gasket, and secure with masking tape.
Press fit the two halves of the air filter togther then push the assembly onto its the bonnet fixing, secure with masking tape if neeed be.
Use scissors or a sharp modelling knife to cut decal #8 from the sheet.
Take the hub cap. Remove the backing paper, and place the decal onto the hub cap aligning 'CTIS' with the bolt projections at either side.
That's it for this stage.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 3 - Contains a tyre, servo saver parts and the nitro engine air filter.
Wash the tyre with soapy water, paying particular attention to the bead rims where it will fit into the wheel rim.
Use wet and dry paper to key the wheel rim as shown in the steps.
Fit the tyre onto the wheel, making sure that you snap the beads into the wheel rim on both sides of the wheel.
Fix the tyre in place by applying superglue at the points indicated in the steps for both sides of the wheel.
Follow the steps to assemble the servo saver, and take care not to cross-thread the adjuster when attaching it.
Air filter:
Note: It‘s a good idea to work a few drops of air filter oil into the filter element at this stage, as it will make debris filtration more effective. Use your fingers to gently squeeze the foam to disperse the oil throughout the element.
Assemble the air filter by screwing its cap in place and fitting the air pipe.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 4 - Contains left and right mirror parts, damper parts and the aerial.
Fit the mirror parts together as per the steps.
Cut out the mirrors from the decal sheet, then place each onto the mirror units taking note of the orientation.
That's it for this stage, carefully store the damper parts and aerial.
Despatch #2 contains Stages:
5 - Differential gear parts and a differential case.
6 - Differential gear parts.
7 - Gearbox halves, bearings, allen key and drive parts.
8 - Contains the rear suspension & damper stays, screws, flange balls and a cross wrench.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 5 - Contains differential parts, grease and the differntial housing.
Fit the bearing onto the differential housing.
Apply grease to the recess in the centre of the inside of the case and also to the shaft of the cup joint.
Insert the cup joint into the diff housing as shown, slowly rotate and slide back and forth to coat the shaft with grease.
Place the red 'O' ring onto the shaft inside the case and seat into the recess of the housing.
Place the shim onto the shaft followed by the pin, which is inserted through the shaft so that it protrudes evenly on both sides of the shaft.
Apply grease onto the shim and pin, then fit the bevel gear so that its rear slot engages with the pin.
Apply a little grease to the bevel gear shaft then slide the bevel gears onto the shaft as shown, then fit the shaft into the housing aligning its ends with the slots.
Lightly turn the cup joint to rotate the gears to coat them with grease.
Store the remaining grease until the next stage.
That's it for this stage.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 6 - Contains differential parts.Fit the bearing onto the projection of the differential cap, make sure that the bearing is flush with the projection.
Apply grease into the recess of the diff cap and also onto the shaft of the cup joint.
Place the shaft of the cup joint into the diff cap as shown, then gently rotate the cup and slide back and forth to coat the shaft with grease.
Fit the red 'O' ring on the inside of the diff cap, and fully seat into the recess.
Place the shim onto the shaft, followed by the pin so that it protrudes equally on both sides of the shaft, then apply grease to the shim and pin as shown.
Fit the bevel gear ontot the shaft and enage its pin slots at the rear with the pin.
Apply a large amount of grease into the differential housing (but do not use it all, as grease is also required in the next stage).
Locate the four screw holes of the dif case and cap and fit them together. Place the large gear onto the cap, again align its fore screw holes with the holes in the cap.
Insert one of the 2.6x12mm countersunk self-tapping screws into one of the holes, and tighten half way. Then following the tightening diagram in the order shown, tighten the next three screws halfway into their holes, and when all four are in place, fully tighten them in the same order. (Be careful not to overtighten).
Turn the cup joints in opposite directions to spread the grease around the internal gears of the diff housing.
This completes the assembly of the rear differential.
That's it for ths stage.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 7 - Contains the rear upper and lower gear box halves, bearings, allen key, screws and drive parts.
You will require a 'thread-locking' agent.
Take the pre-assembled drive shaft and place both bearings onto the shaft.
Insert the tip of the allen key into the 4mm set screw, apply a small amount of thread lock agent onto the screw thread, then insert the screw into the cup joint. Keep tightening the screw until about 0.5mm of tip is visble from inside the cup joint. Then slide the cup joint onto the drive shaft, aligning the flat surface of the shaft with the screw.
To achieve the correct bearing spacing, you can set the drive shaft into the lower gearbox half, when the bearing gap is set, tighten the set screw.
Fit the differential assembly into the lower half of the gearbox, then refit the drive shaft and bearings.
Slowly turn the drive shaft to check that the gears rotate smoothly, then apply grease to the gears. Ensure that the grease gets into all of the gear grooves.
Place the upper gearbox half onto the lower half, then secure the halves with four screws as directed.
Test the driveshaft roatation, turn it from left to right while moving it back and forth slightly to find the best position for it, where the gears rotate smoothly without binding.
If the roatation is too tight, loosen the set screw in the drive cup, wedge a piece of paper or card between the cup joint and bearing, then re-tighten the set screw and remove the paper.
That's it for this stage. Retain the spare screws.
Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Stage 8 - Contains the rear suspension & damper stays, screws, flange balls and a cross wrench.
Fit the lower suspension plate onto the rear gearbox using two 4x10mm screws as shown. Then fit the lower suspension holder using two 4x16mm countersunk self-tapping screws.
Take the rear shock stay, two 3x12mm screws and both ball flanges.
Place a screw into the hole indicated on the stay in the stay orientation shown, apply a little thread lock to the screw thread, then screw/tighten a ball flange in place.
Repeat to fit a second screw and ball flange on the opposite side of the stay.
Fit the stay onto the gearbox as shown, then secure with two 4x10mm screws at the front, and two 4x25mm screws at the rear as shown.
This completes this stage. Carefuly store the remaining parts shown, along with the spare screws.
Despatch #3 contains Stages:
9 - Tyre, shock oil and fittings.
10 - Lower suspension arms.
11 - Reduction hub and shaft, allen key and fittings
12 - Hub reduction partsTomick attached the following image(s):
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