Theoretically yes however i believe the waterline to be too high on the model.Having spent an age studying paynes engraving and other images in Septons book I have come to the conclusion that in order to recreate this appearance the changes to the hull would require so many changes to the stern that none of the castings would fit,which are simplified anyway(but do appear far better quality than the mantua group).At the end of the day I decided to make a compromise on accuracy otherwise I would end up with a 95% scratchbuild.I admire your courage in trying to replicate historical accuracy using this partwork.I will post a log when my basic hull is finished,which no doubt will create debate as it addresses lots of other errors.
Regards Nigel

Your welcome Mike,I look forward to seeing your progress and further modifications.
Happy building Nigel

Thank you for looking in comments and question welcome

Kind regards Mike

This looks similar to what i was doing last weekend.Because i left the last section hollow i made four square tubes out of 1.6mm ply with a cap on one end to take the spigot of a blind cannon and slid it into a hole in the stern counter.All four were epoxied in at the same time and then sanded flush to the first planking.The second planking covers the edges of the boxes.I find it very interesting that we both are going down the same route with mods but are going to end up with quite different representations.Have you decided how you are going to portray the rudder ?I am mulling over wether it should go straight up through the stern counter or stop short and have a tiller arm parallel to the waterline going through a hole.The painting is a bit sketchy.If you do a google search for sovereign of the seas 1637 and look at images.On there is the famous painting of the stern and its a much higher resolution to that in septons book.Make sure you put the date in otherwise you get everyones holiday snaps from their cruise .
Regards Nigel

Hi Mike,

It`s the inquisitive one here again,

A quick question about the rear gun port modification. Looking at your pics (it may just be the camera angle)it seems they are aimed down at the waterline, I`m thinking it is dependent on the angle you cut the dummy ports at, in relation to the shape of the stern?

The simple pic below may explain what I`m trying to get at a bit better.



Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)

Hi Mike,

Great diary, tutorial and build. Watching and learning with interest.

Regards
Claret

Now this is getting REALLY interesting,do we agree that the tiller enters the rudder outside the hull?The one thing that throws me is the height of the gilded head on the rudder which would be higher than the tiller as shown in the portrait.Here is a list of my mods so far to give you something to mull over;
1/Rear two sections filled with epoxy and microballoons below the waterline.This enabled me to reprofile the rear of the hull to a proper round tuck.
2/Hull is planked in hard maple below the main wales.All planking above wales is boxwood.I have done the main wales in walnut.I agree with you Sandy and Mike,mahogany does look right on models the grain is far too large.I was tempted to use ebony for the black sections but upon research I deemed it far too much hassle to work with.I have obtained some more boxwood strips to plank the decks.As you may have gathered the only paint used will black and gold apart from the George crosses inside the gunport lids.All planking is 4mm wide
3/I have altered the shear of the wales as I deemed them wrong as represented,not correct shipbuilding practice to have have a main wale chopped through completely removing its strength.I know this is shown on the payne engraving but on a high res image of the portrait you can see the upper main wale just clip the bottom of the last gunports.
There are more mods in the planning
Regards Nigel

Thanks Nigel for the update, my mods todate are:-

1) Reshaped stern Hull

2) Offset Bowsprit

3) Rear side gunports open

4) 4 gunports in the Transom open

I will be framing the gun ports, then I will be planking upto the openings, I will not be planking then cutting the gun ports.

I am using lime wood continous strips for the base not bamboo.

My mods maybe not totaly accurate but I am pleased with them so far, makes the build for me more interesting.

More enhancements to come, resin ships boats, walnut gun carraiges with wooden trucks and brass etch, brass etch ships wheel etc etc etc.

Happy building

Mike

Hi guys,
Looks like we are working the same way.
I could not find oak planking that thin so I decided on walnut.
Looking at the enhanced print in Bussmans book of the stern by Pett, the rudders gilded mask lower edge appears level with the top of the middle deck stern chasers ports the upper edge looks like its at the mid point between the upper and middle chaser ports. I would think that the tiller runs just below the upper gun deck. Millward's plan also shows the tiller in this location.
You guys will have noticed that stern castle brackets on the kit are placed one deck to low. And that the kit has the stern castle overhanging the transom by 11% of the hull length where all the art works appear to be about 5 or 6 % (allowing for the slight offset of the works) measured from the transom and stem post to the further point aft.
I wonder if you guys think the lower gallery brackets are on Pett's stern painting, I have thought the port side is dragons and the starboard side stags.
Sandy

Hi Nigel your info is very much appreciated, it would be nice though to see some photos of your build diary, so we can compare what we are all doing, will you do that please?

Kind regards Mike