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Rank: Administration  Groups: Administrator, Administrators, Forum Support Team, Global Forum Support, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 1,904 Points: 5,725 Location: UK
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Can't wait to watch Tomick do his magic on this one :)
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Samurai Armour
Japanese body armour has a history that goes back as far as the 4th century, and developed enormously over the centuries since its introduction to the battlefield. It was worn to varying degrees by numerous classes; most notably by the Samurai (and by default the ashigaru), and was seen on the battlefield both on mounted and foot troops.
The armour was was generally constructed from many small iron and or leather scales and or plates, connected to each other by rivets and lace made from leather and or silk, and or chain armour. These armour plates were usually attached to a cloth or leather backing.
Japanese armour was designed to be as lightweight as possible as the Samurai had many tasks including riding a horse and archery in addition to swordsman ship. The armour was usually brightly lacquered to protect against the harsh Japanese climate.
The culture of the Samurai was grounded in the concept of bushido - "the way of the warrior." The central tenets of bushido are honor and freedom from the fear of death. A samurai was legally entitled to cut down any commoner who failed to honor him (or her) properly.
A warrior imbued with bushido spirit would fight fearlessly for his master, and die honorably rather than surrender in defeat. Out of this disregard for death, the Japanese tradition of 'seppuku' evolved: defeated warriors (and disgraced government officials) would commit suicide with honor, by ritually disemboweling themselves with a short sword.
The Samurai Armour kit, is a 1/2 scale replica of the type of armour worn by the Samurai warlord "Date Masamune" known as the ‘One-eyed Dragon’ (dokuganryū), throughout the Sengoku (‘Warring States’) period.
Masamune's greatest achievement was funding and backing one of Japan's few journeys of far-flung diplomacy and exploration in this period. He ordered the building of the exploration ship "Date Maru" (later renamed San Juan Bautista) using European ship-building techniques.
He sent one of his retainers, Hasekura Tsunenaga, Sotelo, and an embassy numbering 180 on a successful voyage to establish relations with the Pope in Rome. This expedition visited such places as the Philippines, Mexico, Spain and Rome, making it the first Japanese voyage to sail around the world. Previously, Japanese lords had never funded this sort of venture, so it was probably the first successful voyage. At least five members of the expedition stayed in Coria (Seville) to avoid the persecution of Christians in Japan. 600 of their descendants, with the surname Japón (Japan), are now living in Spain.
Samurai Armour display model:
1/2 scale replica of the type of armour worn by the Samurai warlord "Date Masamune" known as the ‘One-eyed Dragon’ (dokuganryū), throughout the Sengoku (‘Warring States’) period.
The armour stands 80cm high and is modelled in amazing detail. Each separate plate of the lamellar armour is an authentic miniature replica made in metal,laced together in the same way as the real thing, using the traditional methods employed in feudal Japan.
It includes the chest armour, shoulder protection, thigh and shin guards, gauntlets, topped by the iconic helmet with its neck guard and fearsome faceplate. A wooden display stand is also included.
This samurai armour kit is a fascinating project (suitable for beginners as well as more experienced modellers), that will also appeal to anyone interested in the history of Japan and its legendary Samurai Warriors.
http://www.model-space.c...2/samurai_info_pack.pdf
Height 80cm. Width 38cm.
A combined display/storage box is also included.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RW6YeLv5UvE
File Attachment(s):  6-3.jpg (281kb) downloaded 97 time(s).Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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The official build will follow the format of the instructions download, but will not keep pace with the subscription rollout.
You are of course free to build, enhance and finish your model how you so choose. Please Note: Official build diary images & text are protected under UK copyright law.Stage 1 - Contains a diecast helmet bowl half, mask faceplate, tasset plate, mask ears, faux leather tasset, lace, drainage tube and securing posts.
Apply the tasset backing as shown, make sure that the holes are perfectly aligned., use of a cocktail stick may help in doing this.
Glue the ear parts to the mask faceplate, then glue the post plates and posts, folowed by the drainage tube located in the chin.
Cut three strips of lace approx 50mm long. Carefully prepare the lace ends as shown, so that they are firm yet are thined enough to easily pass through the tasset holes.
That's it for this stage, carefully wrap/protect the items during storage to prevent damage to the lacquered finish.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Stage 2 - Contains the helmet bowl, mask nose, tasset plates, screws, mask nose pins and the helmet bowl ring.
Fit the left and right sides of the helmet bowl together, then fit the ring, and secure the helmet halves with two scews.
Take the mask faceplates, apply a small amount of glue to fit the nose pins in place followed by the noseplate fitted over the pins.
Apply the tasset backing to the tasset plates as before, taking note of the differing sizes.
Thread the three previously made laces into the tasset plate as shown, then follow the threading diagram to lace/add tasset plates two and three.
That's it for this stage.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Stage 3 - Contains the helmet rings, tasset plates, rivets, lace and the plate check sheet. Glue the four helmet rivets in place, each into the upper of the four holes. Take the helmet bowl upper and lips. Carefully align the notches, then glue the upper lip onto the lower lip. Test-fit the helmet onto the helmet lip to identify the correct orientation, then glue the helmet in place with epoxy. As with the previous tasset plates, fix the backings in place. Prepare one end of the 60cm lace in the same way as the previous laces and prepare the oposite end with a sealed end as shown. Thread the 60cm of lace into the sixth tasset plate as shown, carefully feeding it and out of the holes to create the pattern shown, securing the lace at step 18 as shown. Take the three sections of taset laced previously, and add the fourth and fifth tassets in the same way. Finally add the 6th tasset and seal the lace ends as shown. That's it for this stage. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Stage 4 - Contains yellow lace, the cuirass, upper plate and hinges.
Test-fit the cuirass upper plate onto the rear projections of the cuirass, apply glue and gently glamp together.
Take the left and right hinges. Glue each to the noted side of the cuirass at the front, glamp while the glue sets.
For protection during storage, you can replace the protective film onto the surface of the cuirass.
Take the yellow lace, prepare its ends in a similar manner to the previous laces as shown.
Carefully thread the lace first down one side of the tasset plates and then at the opposite side, sealing the ends as shown.
There are 11 tasset panels in total to make up, each made up of 6 individual tasset sections as per the one just made. Its important that the overall length for all of them is the same and also the individual tasset plate spacing's., the lacing is the same for all.
Thats it for this stage. Carefully store the Cuirass and Tasset section.
Despatch #2 contains Stages:
5 - Lace, tassets, rivets, visor, crest holder and mount.
6 - Helmet wing plate, lace, tassets and blossom studs.
7 - Cuirass side, lace, cord and hinges.
8 - Cuirass side, tassets, a hinge, cord and lace.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Stage 5 - Contains lace, tassets, rivets, visor, crest holder and mount.
Cut the lace into three equal lengths and prepare the ends as before.
Add the backing to the tasset plates as before.
Lace the three tasset plates together as before.
Take the helmet, visior and rivets. Secure the visor with two medium sized rivets on the upside, as shown, then secure the underside of the rivet with a small rivet pin which is glued in place.
Place the large rivet into the crest mount, apply glue to the bottom of the mount then fit the mount in place and secure on the oposite side with a small rivet pin glued in place. Check the upright crest alignment before the glue sets.
Fit the crest holder into the mount as shown.
That's its for this stage.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Stage 6 - Contains the helmet wing plate, lace, tassets and two blossom studs.
Take the blossom studs, glue one into position on the outer end of the wing plate as shown, then repeat at the opposite plate.
Apply the backing to the three tasset plates, then lace the largest as before, then make up a tasset section containing six tassets as before.
Finish off by adding the yellow lace as before
Ensure that the overall length of this section is about the same as the previous tasset section made.
That's it for this stage.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Stage 7 - Contains the cuirass side, lace, cord and hinges. Test-fit the two cuirass parts together, then apply epoxy glue along the fixing lip, and fit togther, lightly clamp until the glue has set. Take the cord, fray about 2cm from one end, then prepare the end as shown. Then tie a knot about 16-17cm from the tip at the oposite end of the cord. Cut the cord past the knot and apply glue to seal the end. Thread the cord through the hole in the pin, then pass it through the hole on the front of the cuirass as shown. Tie a knot 2cm from the shaped end of the cord, then cut-off the excess past the knot, and apply glue to seal the end. Prepare the laces as shown at step 1, (though you will actually need to cut the yellow lace into two equal lenths and prepare the ends of each). Using the black lace, lace one of the tasset sections onto the cuirass as shown in the steps, the gap between the bottom on the cuirass and taset top should be 4cm and the lcing be equal all the way along. Add the yellow lace between the cuirass and top tasset only at both ends of the pate as shown. Lace the second tasset section to the cuirass in a similar manner. Slot the hinge of the cuirass side onto the hinge of the cuirass front, then pass the securing pin through the hinges from the top to secure both cuirass sections together. When storing this assembly, you should use a protective material to prevent the tasset sections and curass from rubbing or banging against each other, which may cause damage or paint chip. Thats its for this stage. Tomick attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Stage 8 - Contains the cuirass side, tassets, a hinge, cord and lace.
Cut the lace into three equal lengths and prepare the ends as shown.
Fix the tasset backings onto the tasset plates as before.
Thread the lace to assemble both tasset plates as before.
Test-fit the curass sides together, then apply epoxy glue along the contact areas and lightly clamp together.
Test-fit then glue the hinge in position at the side of the cuirass and clamp until the glue has set.
Take the black cord length, fray about 2cm from one end, then prepare the end as shown. Tie a knot about 16-17cm from the tip at the opposite end of the cord. Cut the cord past the knot and apply glue to seal the cord.
Thread the cord through the hole in the pin, then pass it through the hole on the front of the cuirass as shown. Tie a knot 13cm from from the hole, cut off the excess past the knot, and apply glue to seal the end.
Align the hinges of this cuiras side with the cuirass assembly from stage 7, and as with the previous side, insert the pin into the hinge holes from the top, and secure the cuirass sections together.
Thats it for this stage. Protect the cuirass and tasset plates during storage
Despatch 3 Contains Stages:
9 - Cuirass side, hinge, cord and tasset plates.
10 - Shoulder plate, connecting plate, tasset plates cord and lace.
11 - Shoulder plate, connecting plate, taset plates cord and lace.
12 - Wooden display stand parts, neck guard plate and lace.Tomick attached the following image(s):
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