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 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Thanks for the hints, Nigel.
I bought a can of Plasticote lacquer spray, intending to try it on some of the paintwork to protect from UV and give a sheen, so the paintwork will look like oil-based paints rather that modern acrylics.
Maybe that will yellow it up a bit?
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Yes, indeed thats exactly what I do.If you use tamiya acrylics like i do thin with their thinners(not keen on admiraly paints black,looks like car underseal when dry)and then overcoat with the plasticote even the tinniest brush strokes disappear.It also dries like concrete after 48hrs.Far more durable than the acrylic on its own.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Sorry didn't answer the question.Yes it will yellow the white,but it also mellows bright colours and makes them more'scale'
KInd Regards Nigel
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Thanks for the advice, Nigel. I just saw the can in the 99p store and grabbed it!
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Just bought two tonight from B&Q £7.49 each !!!.I do take it that it says polyurathane on the can,just they have started doing other clears by Plasticote.
Kind Regards Nigel
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Ooh! I will have to check that. Anyway, I will do a test area first. I am a long way behind everyone on the build, so there is plenty of time.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Captain David wrote:Ooh! I will have to check that. Anyway, I will do a test area first. I am a long way behind everyone on the build, so there is plenty of time. If it is laquer and not polyurethane i would be very wary.Laquers shrink like mad and can wrinkle the paint beneath.They do not 'move' like polyurethane and acrylic and whilst you may get a lovely result initially they are prone to crack overtime because they can't expand and contract like the wood can. Kind Regards Nigel
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Oops! Just checked. It is "lacquer". Maybe I will get something else. Thanks for the warning, Nigel.
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Lovely work David, love the cannons and your launch....  .. Your debate about the use of laquer I found very interesting and now know to keep clear of the stuff... .. Keep the posts coming, you have me interested in your build....  Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Thanks Alan. I am now awaiting the lower deck with my next delivery - hopefully Thursday. I have run out of stuff to do until then.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Just checked the can of Plasticote stuff again.
It says "Lacquer Paint" and "Metal/Wood" on the front. The instructions state " Re-coat within 4 hours or after 36 to avoid shrinkage". Maybe I should do a test piece?
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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I really wouldn't risk it.Laquer is designed for wet on wet i.e.colour coat the laquer as soon as the colour has flashed of.This is to allow the colour to shrink at the same time as the laquer.The problem lies when the colour has dried then you laquer over the top,the laquer shrinks like mad but the colour cant so it crazes.I know its nearly eight quid a tin but if you are just sealing your finish one can might do the whole boat because you only need two or three mist coats.I cant recommend this enough Kind Regards Nigel NMBROOK attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Thanks Nigel. Yes, I will take your advice!
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Happiness comes with another delivery . Issues 10 to 13. I must say it is puzzling to me, why parts are delivered in the order they are. Issue 10 has the bowsprit and keel parts, none of which will be used on the build for many months. No sign of them yet being fitted on the official build diary which is 6 months ahead of me. So why issue them now? I would prefer to get on with parts I can use now. Issue 13 has more planking for the launch, yet I have already finished mine with 2 planks left over. And another reel of .15 brown thread. I had a reel of this with issue 1 and still haven't had a need to use it. Puzzling indeed. Anyway, I will now shut up and get on with fitting the lower deck.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Even more puzzling is the inadequate supply of pin-nails to attach the deck, supplied in issue 11. There are 10 ribs to pin down onto, 2 of which need a double row as these are where 2 deck sections butt together (13 & 21) - so 12 lines of pins. The mag says 44 pins are supplied (which may vary a bit I suppose) which gives 3.66 pins per row - divided between the port and starboard deck sections, so each will get less than 2 pins, even if I manage to use them all without bending any. If we pin as in the mag, there are 4 pins per row (2 in each side) or 3 in each side on Mr T's official build. So I will have to drive over to Hobbycraft to buy some extras. 
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Fitting the ribs to the keel, using the lower deck as a template. First, I checked the assembled keel for straightness by sighting down it, yet again. As it has been stored for a while, it might have developed a problem. Thankfully, it is still good. All the ribs are now dry-assembled to the keel. Keeping the deck section in the fret, look for drill bits of the exact diameter of the mast-holes. They are 10mm and 8mm. Dry-fit the deck sections, after marking the pin-lines. Check everything will line up properly, especially the joints between the deck sections. All the parts are machined accurately. I checked each deck section against its opposite number for a perfect match of the rib slots. The points where 4 sections meet form a perfect cross, the mast holes match up. The aft deck meets the transom of rib 26 and the forward deck meets the front bulkhead, both dead square. As they all should, at this stage, or I would suspect a parts problem. Some of the ribs swivel on the keel a bit, where I have over-sanded the slots. The deck sections will hold them where they should be. Starting at the bow, lift the forward deck sections away but leave the other decks in place. Now glue in one of the exposed ribs - 5,6 & 7. I thought it best to start with the firmly fitting ones, glueing one in, refitting the deck sections and leaving the rib to dry thoroughly. Then lift the decks and glue in another rib, finally gluing in the loosest one as the now solid ribs and deck give a firm template for any loose ones. Leaving rib 13 for now (the one where the forward and middle deck sections meet) I then followed the same procedure for the middle deck, fitting ribs 15, 16 & 20. The 10mm drill bit gets replaced in the hole after each rib is placed, to keep the mast-hole lined up. Once these are fully dried overnight, I can risk taking off all 4 of the deck sections around rib 13 and glueing it in. Finally, the same procedure on the aft. I notice a small discrepancy on the centre line - the aft deck joint is not quite in line with the middle deck joint, but only by 1mm. This will be corrected by holding it in line when the decks are glued and pinned. I now need to go out and get some deck pins. I want something more substantial then the ones supplied. This will be the most important joint in the ship - adding the horizontal plane to the other two. I want it to be bomb-proof, as the other decks are only glued. Captain David attached the following image(s):
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Looks spot on David, very well done... Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Thanks, Alan
It's a different way of doing the framing, from most people's builds and the official instructions. It seems to work for me.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Lower deck glued and pinned. I gave up on finding larger pins. Hobbycraft only had smaller ones, the DIY stores only had 20mm brass panel pins. I didn't fancy driving into Southampton just for some pins, so used the ones supplied. I can always add some bigger ones later. All deck sections dry-fitted to start with. Next, mark where the pins will go and pre-drill holes for them. The official build warns us not to place pins closer than 10mm from the ribs. Well, there is no way I could swing a pin-hammer that close anyway! The upper parts of the ribs curve in too far. I marked a vertical down from the innermost part of each rib - the highest deck support. Then I allowed half a hammer-head width further in, plus a little bit more. The central edges (over the keel) have pins 10mm from the centre line. My first attempt still damaged the deck supports on a couple of ribs . Luckily the bits glued back in OK. Then I decided to be more sensible and placed a piece of card against each rib to shield it from the hammer. I haven't bought a modeller's small hammer as I had a 4oz pin hammer and this seems to work OK at this stage of the build. The last two pinning lines at the aft are so short (the ribs curve it a lot here) that each side only got one pin. Result - exactly 44 pins used, as supplied! Lucky that none of them bent. The ship now feels pretty solid, though I will keep an eye out for some more pins to add, just to make me feel better  Captain David attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Super-Elite     Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/04/2010 Posts: 5,787 Points: 17,662 Location: Stafford, United Kingdom
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Hi David looking good Kind regards Mike MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.
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