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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Can anyone help me with a problem?
Issue 17, stage 16 says ‘fix the first strip’ [on the port side], and then, stage 18, ‘fix a 2nd strip’, and in stage 19, ‘fix a third strip’, and finally, stage 20, ‘use pliers to remove all the pins except those at the ends of the 3 strips’. Evidently we are meant to follow the same procedure for the starboard side in stages 21 and 22. I also infer from Issue 18, stage 5, that we follow the same procedure with the 2nd row of strips, and so on, always leaving the end pins in place.
However there is a difficulty. The very helpful Build Diary for issue 17 goes over the instructions for the three strips, but finishes with ‘When the glue is fully dry, remove all the pins, except those in the final three frames at the stern [sic], where you will need to cut off the pin heads using side cutters, and then push the shanks completely into the strip.’ What does this mean?
I know I’m a long way behind, but I would welcome a bit of reassurance here. Incidentally, what is the objection to pins and their heads – is it for economy, or is it because they might get in the way when we come to the 2nd layer? If so, might it not be an idea to mark the pins that are left in?
cec
PS
I too am finding bamboo troublesome to drill through.
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neofytos wrote:Can anyone help me with a problem?
Issue 17, stage 16 says ‘fix the first strip’ [on the port side], and then, stage 18, ‘fix a 2nd strip’, and in stage 19, ‘fix a third strip’, and finally, stage 20, ‘use pliers to remove all the pins except those at the ends of the 3 strips’. Evidently we are meant to follow the same procedure for the starboard side in stages 21 and 22. I also infer from Issue 18, stage 5, that we follow the same procedure with the 2nd row of strips, and so on, always leaving the end pins in place.
However there is a difficulty. The very helpful Build Diary for issue 17 goes over the instructions for the three strips, but finishes with ‘When the glue is fully dry, remove all the pins, except those in the final three frames at the stern [sic], where you will need to cut off the pin heads using side cutters, and then push the shanks completely into the strip.’ What does this mean?
I know I’m a long way behind, but I would welcome a bit of reassurance here. Incidentally, what is the objection to pins and their heads – is it for economy, or is it because they might get in the way when we come to the 2nd layer? If so, might it not be an idea to mark the pins that are left in?
cec
PS
I too am finding bamboo troublesome to drill through.
Hi, when you are pinning the planks ensure you only push the pins about half way in, not all the way... when removing the pins as instructed leave the last 3 on the stern section in place.... cut the pin using snips as close to the bamboo as possible... Using a small punch gently tap the pin in below the surface level of the plank.... leaving it protuding will cause a problem when it comes to sanding.... those pins give added adhesion for the stern and bow sections..... Leaving the heads on the pins will give problems when sanding and also when applying the second layer of planks as they are only .5mm thick.... Hope this answers your query.. Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Yes, you're right. I have been pushing the pins in a bit far, just to get the strakes to hold firm while they're sticking. I ran out of kit pins and was using a shorter variety. I've decided I'll have to use the proper pins from one of the unopened bags. Thanks very much for the advice.
cec
PS
A fellow modeller tells me that you can waste a lot of pins when you add a 2nd layer, if there are pins left in from the first layer of planking.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Don't pin your second layer as its meant to be pin free 
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Hi Neo One little trick I developed on my first ship kit the Grimsby (she was single planked in 2mm hardwood!) was to cut a length of 3mm or 4mm square into lengths of about 4mm and drill a hole for a pin down through the middle. The pin was then passed through the block and hammered into the rib. The block acted as a washer to hold the plank tight against the rib and also as a convenient thing to grip with pliers to pull the pin out again. Robin First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Tomick wrote:Don't pin your second layer as its meant to be pin free Thanks for the warning! But surprising - being new to this I thought it was a regular thing for ship models to be built with the trenails showing. Best wishes cec
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Plymouth57 wrote:Hi Neo
One little trick I developed on my first ship kit the Grimsby (she was single planked in 2mm hardwood!) was to cut a length of 3mm or 4mm square into lengths of about 4mm and drill a hole for a pin down through the middle. The pin was then passed through the block and hammered into the rib. The block acted as a washer to hold the plank tight against the rib and also as a convenient thing to grip with pliers to pull the pin out again.
Robin Dear Robin, Thanks v much for the washer tip. That sounds a very good way. When I think about the number of holes I'm going to have to drill my heart sinks. But the problem is judging just how far to let the drill go. Best wishes C
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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This is noted at the start of the second planking for this model.
Its a steep learning curve for the novice, but hopefully one that will help you take on future ship model builds with confidence.
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/12/2012 Posts: 152 Points: 439 Location: Barrow-in-Furness Cumbria
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hi Neo. it sounds like you are trying to drill the holes while the plank is in position. You should offer the plank up to the frames. then mark the frame centres then remove the plank and then drill your holes. then push the pins into the drilled holes as a starter then offer the plank back up to the frames and finally push the pins into the frame. making sure they dont push all the way in. Once glue is dry if you carfully remove the pins, you can use them again. that should solve your pin shortage problem. Also if you use a pin pusher with a stopper on, it will stop you pushing the pins in too far. Stu Cheers Stu
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