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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Thanks Mike. I always appreciate comments from the Top Guys.
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Looking good David . Keep up the good work .Rgd Martyn Building ? Completed. Soliei Royal . Sovereign of the Seas . Virginia . Scotland . San Felipe . Corel vasa , Santisima Trinadad X section , Vasa Next Build ? When sailors have good wine, They think themselves in heaven for the time. John Baltharpe
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Rank: Administration Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 8,251 Points: 23,841 Location: East midlands
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Hi Cap`n, That`s looking good matey WTG. Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Thanks, Martyn and Derek. It's fun but quite a lot to learn!
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I like the progress you are making here David, coming on a treat... .. Keep up the good work, i'll be following closely.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Thank you, Alan. I am plotting a new way of doing the next stage - the stringers/dummy gun supports. More to follow soon!
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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I thought I would post up what I have been doing to the launch - making the floor. My next phase on the big ship is going to take a few evenings... I have relied on the official build diary for this stage, as I don't get instructions in the magazine just yet. I can't see that it is easy to fit the boards one by one into the launch and get it right, so I built up an assembly on the workbench. This is built up as the original would have been, with cross-braces underneath that fit up against the ribs to hold it in place. Only the outer braces (the fore and aft ones) need to be accurately measured. The aft brace fits just forward of a rib, preventing movement aft; the front brace, vice versa. The two middle braces can go anywhere, so long as they are not directly over a rib. Planks squared up and taped down, I glued on the bracing pieces, then sanded the aft end square, so that it just covers the rib that it sits on. The front end is the sanded to a curve, so that it just sits in the launch, without riding up on the rib sides. It should just cover the flat part of the ribs. Then a coat of white acrylic, sanded down. Final paint shade yet to be decided. As the assembly is still loose, I can take it out later to paint it again. After painting, the planks seem to appear as a solid sheet. Maybe I shouldn't have held them so tightly together. I will probably have to V-joint them at some time, just to define the planks. This has used up less than 2 planks of the 5 supplied. I can't see that the thwarts/seats and aft frames will use up more than 1 1/2, so maybe there is a future use for the 2 spare? Captain David attached the following image(s):
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Nice job on the launch David Rgd Martyn Building ? Completed. Soliei Royal . Sovereign of the Seas . Virginia . Scotland . San Felipe . Corel vasa , Santisima Trinadad X section , Vasa Next Build ? When sailors have good wine, They think themselves in heaven for the time. John Baltharpe
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You should be proud of your launch David, nicely done.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Thanks Martyn and Alan. It's coming along..
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Hi Captain Nice work on the launch, as for the excess in wood what tends to happen is if you follow the instructions to the dot then offcuts are what is left that can be used later if needed. But if like me you can make up what you need using the minimum of the supplied wood you end up with the excess you have, this can be saved and used later if needed or just stashed away for future builds. regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Thanks Andy Yes, there is value to be had in thinking carefully about cutting. I have just fitted the deck support beams for deck 2. 10 beams, 10 bits of plank supplied. But you can easily get two beams out of one plank, for the shorter ones. I got six out of three planks, then I had to use whole lengths for the middle four - but the 4 offcuts from that will easily give me some beams for the next deck.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Next, the Stringers/Dummy Gun Supports. I decided not to glue these in, for two reasons: a) They do not fit well enough to get a good glue joint. The bottoms of the stringers do not meet the deck at right-angles - and the ribs are not cut flat where they are supposed to be glued. b) I want the ribs to be free to move against them. There is a tiny variation in the rib gaps higher up and I want the next two decks to go in without widening their slots. These decks should hold the ribs to their proper positions - but they will only do that if the ribs can move. So, how to fix them in place? They need to be firm enough to drill into later, when mounting the guns, without breaking away and disappearing inside the ship. I am bracing them with blocks on the inside. As the stringers are set at an angle to the deck, I used a two-part method - otherwise, I would have had to cut angled blocks. First, I used sections of ply to hold the bottom edges tight against the ribs. Most of these were cut from the spare wood from the stringers themselves and a few from the fret of the deck. At the centre of each stringer section, these were held in with clamps, to get the curve tight to the ribs. A spare piece on top prevents them twisting out of place as the clamp is tightened, while another spare piece is used as a pusher to hold them in position. One hand on the "pusher", one hand for the clamp screw. I wish my ratchet clamps hadn't rusted up - they would have made this job easier! The other bits of ply needed no clamping, just dropped in place. Next, small blocks from some 15mmx15mm softwood. I could have cut these a bit smaller, as their main function is to hold the upper edges of the stringers against the ribs. But I decided to take a little time and cut them to fit exactly under the next deck - so they will provide bases for pinning the deck down. To get the height, the deck support beams went in next. Ten beams, ten strips of wood supplied. But it is easy to get the six shorter beams out of three pieces with just a few millimetres of waste. So I now have 4 useable offcuts and 3 whole strips left over - almost enough to do the next layer! There is just one more modification before I glue the blocks in. I am thinking of putting some lighting in here. The stringers only come up about 2/3 of the height to the next deck, so light would flood out of the gaps. I want to restrict this and make a more subtle effect. More on this later... Captain David attached the following image(s):
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Nicely done David, like your methods... .. Keep up the good work... Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Thanks again Alan. Still working on the blocks at the moment. Will post another photo when finished with them.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Next, I have added card to the upper parts of the stringers. I want to restrict the amount of light coming through to the gun-ports. As far as I can guess, the gun-ports will not be lined (well, officially, anyway). If they were, there would be no point in painting this area black all over - we would just paint the linings. So, if I put some LEDs in here, the light would flood in to this area, over the top of the stringers - there is a 6mm gap between the top of the stringers and the next deck. The card has been pierced to allow pinpoints of light to get through. These will not be seen directly as they are too high. Well, again I am guessing that the gun-ports will be roughly at the level of the decks as we will be mounting the guns onto the stringers which are in the lower half of the between-decks space. The light colour can be altered by the paint I apply later to the gun-port area. I will just be using plain white LEDs but painting the space maybe yellow or red ochre. I can experiment with this by trying different colours, prior to planking. The light will be reflected off the paintwork before being seen through the gun-ports. One side is now completed and the blocks cut for the other side. Captain David attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/09/2012 Posts: 515 Points: 1,515 Location: Burnley
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Hi Captain, looking good!! Claret Also working on: SOTS. Moebius 1/32 Flying Sub with PE & lights.
Waiting in the wings: Polarlights Spindrift from Land of the Giants.
finished: 007 Iconic DB5.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Thanks Mr Claret! I have now poured a glass of claret and am thinking of tackling the rest of those bits of card
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I'm really liking this build David... a very big well done there.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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Thanks Alan. Praise indeed, from an expert.
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