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Er...yes...looks really good Alan, but....are you sure she had THAT many oars!!  She's looking gr8 m8!! Robin First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
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Plymouth57 wrote:Er...yes...looks really good Alan, but....are you sure she had THAT many oars!! She's looking gr8 m8!! Robin Just want to make sure she could row her way out of the dolldrums..... .... Thanks Robin, appreciate the sense of humour.... I need it with this task I can tell you..... Regards Alan
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 Rank: Super-Elite      Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/04/2010 Posts: 5,787 Points: 17,662 Location: Stafford, United Kingdom
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Hi Alan, Top job it looks great  Kind regards Mike MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.
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MWG wrote:Hi Alan, Top job it looks great Kind regards Mike Thanks Mike, any advice on recharging numbed brain cells..... Regards Alan
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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She's going to look stunning Alan .The only advice as regard the mind numbing is just walk away and do something else when you have had enough.I have finished treenailing one side and I am lining the gunports on that side for a break.Treenailing the lower hull is a MASSIVE job as I have found out,but the results are more than worth it.You will appreciate the results long after you have forgotten how long it took. Kind Regards Nigel
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
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I now want to do that! Lovely effect.
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 Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/09/2012 Posts: 515 Points: 1,515 Location: Burnley
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Hi Alan, Porcupine of the Seas? The second layer of planking looks exceptional and love the the treenailing, just might have a go at that mod! Regards Claret Also working on:
SOTS.
Moebius 1/32 Flying Sub with PE & lights.
Waiting in the wings:
Polarlights Spindrift from Land of the Giants.
finished:
007 Iconic DB5.
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Rank: Super-Elite   Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/04/2010 Posts: 3,955 Points: 11,809 Location: uk
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hi alan, love the the treenailing, have you considered that there is the wales to fit????? will you be covering all that hard work up???? just a thought. great idea though. k. Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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NMBROOK wrote:She's going to look stunning Alan .The only advice as regard the mind numbing is just walk away and do something else when you have had enough.I have finished treenailing one side and I am lining the gunports on that side for a break.Treenailing the lower hull is a MASSIVE job as I have found out,but the results are more than worth it.You will appreciate the results long after you have forgotten how long it took. Kind Regards Nigel Thanks for commenting Nigel..  .. It may be mind numbing stuff but truthfully am enjoying the experience.... Am doing exactly as you advise, doing a little and then walking away for a while... Am not to bothered as to how long the process will take.... just want it to look right.... .. Thanks again.. Regards Alan
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Captain David wrote:I now want to do that! Lovely effect. Happy you like it David, if you do carry out this task then take your time and you will get the results you are after.... Regards Alan
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claret wrote:Hi Alan,
Porcupine of the Seas?
The second layer of planking looks exceptional and love the the treenailing, just might have a go at that mod!
Regards
Claret Thanks Claret, appreciate your nice comments.... Have a go, it'll be worth it I'm sure.... Regards Alan
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karl1113 wrote:hi alan, love the the treenailing, have you considered that there is the wales to fit????? will you be covering all that hard work up???? just a thought. great idea though. k. Hi Karl, nice to hear from you and really appreciate your comments.... .. I have given thought to quite a few things on this process and you are of course correct about the wales.. I don't think they will cover up too much but as I don't know their exact position yet I feel it is safer just to do the whole thing... .. Same can be said about the red stripe along the side and of course the blackened top of the hull... Have been thinking of using artists ink on this areas as their thin application will allow the grain of the wood to show through plus of course the trenailing..(I hope)...My real concern here would be the ink bleeding onto area's I don't want it to go on to.... Lots of things still to ponder over as I fully intend to trenail the whole of the lower hull as well.... .. I must be bonkers.... .. Any advice would be greatly appreciated....  Thanks again Regard Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Hi Alan, just thinking about your red stripe.You could use Paduk.This is available from CMB and is naturally red in colour.Their picture doesn't really convey this,but I have seen it used for gunport linings with great effect.You could use red indian ink on limewood strips.You would probably have to fit them between your wales after staining,otherwise the ink is liable to bleed into everything.
Just a couple of suggestions for you to ponder.
Kind Regards Nigel
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NMBROOK wrote:Hi Alan, just thinking about your red stripe.You could use Paduk.This is available from CMB and is naturally red in colour.Their picture doesn't really convey this,but I have seen it used for gunport linings with great effect.You could use red indian ink on limewood strips.You would probably have to fit them between your wales after staining,otherwise the ink is liable to bleed into everything.
Just a couple of suggestions for you to ponder.
Kind Regards Nigel Thatks for that Nigel, gives me food for thought. Will have a look at CMB for Paduk and let you know what I think..... Thanks again... Regards Alan
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Hi Alan. That's a good suggestion regarding that Paduk (never even heard of it till then!)  I wouldn't recommend any form of ink for putting sharp edged lines across a wooden planked surface. The stuff will bleed everywhere (which of course is exactly what it's designed to do! hence the Citidel inks which are used as a wash for shadow effects on figures). Other than very careful masking the only other way that might be useful is the clear or white waterslide A4 transfer sheets available from various art stores on ebay. I used some of it to produce the blue stripes on the yellow ochre beakhead timbers. You just paint it the colour you want, acrylic or enamel and once dry just trim it to size and use like an ordinary waterslide decal. Its also really good for painting intricate designs onto for stern decorations etc. Best of luck with the Porcupine of the Seas as she's been called! Everybody else is doing the SOTS you're doing the POTS! Robin First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
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Plymouth57 wrote:Hi Alan. That's a good suggestion regarding that Paduk (never even heard of it till then!) I wouldn't recommend any form of ink for putting sharp edged lines across a wooden planked surface. The stuff will bleed everywhere (which of course is exactly what it's designed to do! hence the Citidel inks which are used as a wash for shadow effects on figures). Other than very careful masking the only other way that might be useful is the clear or white waterslide A4 transfer sheets available from various art stores on ebay. I used some of it to produce the blue stripes on the yellow ochre beakhead timbers. You just paint it the colour you want, acrylic or enamel and once dry just trim it to size and use like an ordinary waterslide decal. Its also really good for painting intricate designs onto for stern decorations etc. Best of luck with the Porcupine of the Seas as she's been called! Everybody else is doing the SOTS you're doing the POTS! Robin Hi Robin, thanks for that and you have just confirmed what I have been thinking with the use of inks, the bleeding makes their use a little too risky.... Have been onto CMB and had a good look at Nigels suggestion on the use of Paduk... lovely wood but the thinest they do is 1mm so not sure if it will be suitable in this instance.... .. More food for thought..... at this rate I will turn obese....
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Gandale wrote:NMBROOK wrote:Hi Alan, just thinking about your red stripe.You could use Paduk.This is available from CMB and is naturally red in colour.Their picture doesn't really convey this,but I have seen it used for gunport linings with great effect.You could use red indian ink on limewood strips.You would probably have to fit them between your wales after staining,otherwise the ink is liable to bleed into everything.
Just a couple of suggestions for you to ponder.
Kind Regards Nigel Thatks for that Nigel, gives me food for thought. Will have a look at CMB for Paduk and let you know what I think..... Thanks again... Regards Alan Hi Nigel, loved the suggestion but the thinest is 1mm, that just may be a little too thick for my liking.... ..More thinking to do.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Hi Alan,the same place that I got the black boxwood from does coloured veneer.They do two different shades of red.This is 0.6mm thick,however you will have to cut into plank widths yourself.
Kind Regards Nigel
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Hi Alan Inks are a good way of staining wood but the wood will need to be stained before cutting and fixing in place, venear's are also another way to go but if the colour is not right then it will niggle every time you look at it. What you must also consider that the position of the model after finishing as displaying in direct sunlight will fade the inks and natural colored venear's very quickly. hope this helps regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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