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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 8,520 Points: 24,651 Location: East midlands
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Hi Daran, Firstly, there`s some stunning work there and secondly I think huge is an understatement  . Just how big does the finished item end up, think you may need a bigger work table for the final assembly  . Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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delboy271155 wrote:Hi Daran, Firstly, there`s some stunning work there and secondly I think huge is an understatement . Just how big does the finished item end up, think you may need a bigger work table for the final assembly . Regards delboy271155 (Derek) Hi Derek, thanks for looking in. Your right about the work bench, and I think I need to re think my display options!!!
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Looking great Daran, certainly making headway on this build and that Schumo barrel was well worth the effort!!  
Will you be adding any 1:16 crew to this my friend?
P.S. - Could you update your question in the Formula One quiz please - there's a good chap!?
Kev 
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Hi Kev and thanks for looking in. Yes the barrel has certainly made all the difference to the look of the turret!
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I have assembled the lower hull so I can get an Idea for painting.The complete Engine bay and lower front hull up to the sponsons is red oxide, then elfenbein from there up in the fighting compartment. The instructions are way off, telling you to paint the interior hull the same as the outer!! WRONG!! These pics also give you an idea of the size, my cutting mat is 28cm X 43cm.   
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Hi Nem Very Nice work there as for the painting instructions try the Fargestal a pic with some references to gunze colours with some random arrows pointing in the models direction , no paint list at all in the instructions  at least hatchet gave you a colour to paint even though it was wrong  regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Great work as always Daran and very interesting to read the discussion on colour! Keep the updates coming mate.
Kev
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Hi Kev
I have just had a read through you diary and I have to say outstanding work.I find it surprising though that Hachete went to so much expense, tooling up for that lovely cast metal turret and then ruin it by supplying that awful barrel.
Kind Regards Nigel
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Really starting to come together and so refreshing to see somebody get the interior paint correct!! J “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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 Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/06/2010 Posts: 566 Points: 1,657 Location: UK
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Nemesis wrote:Hi Wilfy, thanks for looking in and your comments!
For the breech block I did this:-
1. Cut some plasticard to block off the three sides of the inner breech. I made them taller than the breech to make them easier to stick in place, and its easy to trim them level.Make sure they are a perfect fit so there are no gaps. Once dry, trim them to the level of the top of the breech.
2. Now cut a small piece to make the curve in the top of the breech block. If you warm it and form it round a brush handle its easier to fit. Its trial and error on this, so make it to long and then trim it till it looks similar to mine. Once your happy with the shape, glue it in place.
3. Cut another piece the same as the back of the breech block and close in the front. Again make sure its a perfect fit. dont worry about the shape as yet, its easier to do last.
4. The front of the loading breech is all one piece. Cut a square just big enough that it over hangs the front and top, and butts up tight with no gaps against the main breech. Once you happy with the fit glue one side only to the middle of the curve, and then using a cylinder the same bore, insert it so that it pushes the card into the keyhole shape. When dry using a thick needle, apply the glue to the other side, you should be able to pull the card away enough to get the glue in. Than use the cylinder again to form the card to the keyhole shape.
5. Leave it to dry for a while and then trim the card to the shape of the Breech. Now you can shape the curve in the block. Cut out most of it with side cutters leaving a 'V' and then carefully finish the rest with a scalpel and fine round file.
Voila!! The five step breech block!!
I hope that helps you, but if you get stuck let me know, and if you really get fed up and want to post it to me I will happily build it for you.
Daran Hi Nem, Sorry for very late thank you! Your post is a real help & what you have done looks fantastic. Still following your build but time has been against me! Looks great! Wilfy
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Suspension is all done, and I am glad you cant see it when the wheels are on because it is soooooo wrong it is beyond belief!!! Have also started weathering the wheels and hull sides, as its easier to do with the wheels off.     
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Hi Nem the weathering looks great and I see what you mean about the suspension, spring loaded instead of torsion bar as on the real thing. If the plastic kit makers can provide the correct suspension in plastic parts why did they make this hodge podge up the mind boggles regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Hi Andy and thanks for your comments. If you look closely you will also see that the suspension swing arms are also ALL pointing the same way instead of forwards on one side and backwards on the other!!!! Terrible really considering that, like you said, they can get it right on plastic kits and in a smaller scale!! Well it cant be seen when the wheels are on which is a bonus!!!
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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The weathering is very cool Daran, very realistic staining and I see what you mean about the suspension lash up!! Just as well it can't be seen as you say and I'll bet that's not the last of Hachettes' mistakes on this model?  
Never mind mate, if anyone can make 'a silk purse out of a sow's ear' it's you sir!! Well done on a great job so far and I'll be watching with interest!!
Kev
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Some loverly weathering as for the suspension its beyond words isn't it I can only imagine they have done that for cost reduction reasons “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/11/2011 Posts: 200 Points: 486
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I did start this when it was released but after a few weeks I stopped the build as I started to have grave doubts about the quality and accuracy of the build. Other Hachette partworks have been fabulous such as the Lancaster, Hood, Bismarck.... This one seemed to me to have been designed by a child and to me, Knowing the vehicle very well there was so much wrong with it. I couldn't justify spending my money and then spending much more just trying to make the thing look correct. I will stick to Trumpeter's 1/16 Tiger II. It is a superb kit just OOB never mind adding all the extra decaling, cabling and piping and much less expensive. Trumpeter's next 1/16 is going to be the SU100 I believe. No Idea when it is going to be released (hoping for christmas ) I am also hoping that Trumpeter will do a full interior Tiger I as the new Hobbyboss one is just an enhanced RC kit with no interior. As Hobbyboss is Trumpeter under a different name maybe this is an interim release to test the water for a full interior Tiger I. The Tiger II was meant to be a limited edition with a choice of Tiger II Porsche or Tiger II Henschel turrets. It has been so successful that it has been added permanently to their cataloge at a kit but with a choice of turrets in one box. Once can only hope that Trumpy will do a Tiger I full interior. They have plenty of examples to study. James
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Turret basket under way.   I have assembled the lower hull so I can get an Idea for painting. The complete Engine bay and lower front hull up to the sponsons is red oxide, then elfenbein from there up in the fighting compartment.Suspension is all done, and I am glad you cant see it when the wheels are on because it is soooooo wrong it is beyond belief!!! :lol!: :lol!: :D Have also started weathering the wheels and hull sides, as its easier to do with the wheels off. :D
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2013 Posts: 4,588 Points: 13,553 Location: West Yorkshire
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Looking good Nem, nice weathering touches AL
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All the wheels are now sanded, fitted and rims painted in steel.    
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