Before I begin this topic, I should make it absolutely clear that the following offer is unconnected with DeAgostini (or any of its agents and operatives) and that both the design of the tool and rights connected with it belong solely to me..
Thanks.
Ahoy Shipmates!
After receiving both a prompt and a commission to make a cannon crest stamp like the one I made for my own build, I decided to sit down and design a tool that would make it (relatively) simple to apply the cast crest, applique detail on the cannon and carronade barrels.

After a not altogether-satisfactory start with some cheap pine dowling, (which absolutely refused to stop fluffing up, even after 3 coats of sanding sealant, 2 coats of filler primer, a coat of black paint and some varnish) I settled on an ergonomically - shaped walnut handle, an aluminium ferrule and brass alignment stud. The detailing end is made from cured Greenstuff/Kneadatite which, given that it is used to create master sculpts for centrifugal casting machines means that it is pretty tough stuff.
The 1/84 Cannon Crest Stamp. 

Note: The quality of finish on the completed tool handle is of a much higher standard than that shown in the above pics.
The tool will be supplied either 'as is' for £5 or, for a couple of golden nuggets (£2) more, enough GS to do all 24 supplied cannon. (whilst the amount supplied will be more than sufficient for both the supplied cannon/s and carronades - including an allowance for having a practice on the cannon and carronade models that you already own, it will need to be applied to small batches of cannon, say 5- 10 at a time - it's hard to mix very tiny quantities of GS at a time and this will result in waste.
How does it work?1) Mix up, very thoroughly, a small (about 2mm diameter when mixed and rolled into a ball) amount of GS and apply it to the top centre of the portion of the cannon that you wish to embellish. – Use the pinion as the true indication of which side of the cannon barrel is ‘up’ – the thimble on your cannon may be mis-aligned .

2). Next, using a flat blade (I just so happened to have a sculpting tool handy), flatten the GS out to an even thickness (about 0.5mm) and slightly larger than the area of the stamp detailing surface. I use a sparing amount of Vaseline on the sculpting tool to help lubricate it and stop the GS sticking to it – others use spit. Just remember that, if you have used Vaseline, you’ll need to give the whole area a wash in warm soapy detergent otherwise you might have problems getting paint to stick.

3).Using the brass dot as a rough guide, a careful line up using your eye and a steady hand, press the tool down onto the GS, its not a bad idea to apply just a tiny bit of Vaseline (or spit) – if you haven’t already done so – to the surface of the GS on the cannon barrel – this will help prevent GS sticking to the detailing tool – think of it as a mould release agent.

Don’t worry if it comes out a bit askew (as it often does for me) simply re-arrange the old or re-apply some new GS to the barrel and try again . I have tried to make the lining-up process as straightforward as I can through the design, but it’s still a bit hit and miss when you get down to it.

4). Simply wait until the GS is cured (a couple of hours in a warm room should be ok for this purpose – it takes 24Hrs to fully cure, beyond any doubt) and simply cut and scrape away any surplus GS using a really sharp craft or scalpel blade. – there’s no need to cut right to the edges of the lettering or crown – just ‘close’ to the main outline. If you used vaseline, then be sure to give the cannon a quick wash with warm water and a drop of washing up liquid (I use an old paintbrush with short bristles and gently work a soapy solution in and around the affected areas).
5). Paint in a suitable shade of Black (I used a mix of Vallejo Matte Black and some Cuprinol Acrylic, Satin Finish varnish).

I make no bold claims about it being accurate to scale (in fact it's slightly oversized - a concession I made to you actually being able to make out detail on the crown and lettering as opposed to something resembling a small blob sitting over two squiggly blobs - but I will guarantee that if your tool degrades or breaks over the next couple of years (in normal useage), just send it back and I'll repair or replace it.
Each tool costs £5 (supplied without two part epoxy putty) plus P&P (a stamped addressed envelope is preferred), or £7 with sufficient material to imprint crests on 24, 1/84 scale cannon barrels (and two 1/84 carronades).
If you'd like one of these tools or have any questions, please add a comment to that effect below and I will contact you accordingly. Please note that they will be made to order and as such may take around seven days to reach you after payment is received.
Schnellboots on back burner
Tools.