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 Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/06/2010 Posts: 23 Points: 65 Location: wales newport
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i am trying to see if anyonne here can help with the paints in humbrol i have a colour chart but cant find any paint colour guides anywhere i know i can order from cornwall boats but want to start today painting
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 Rank: Vice-Master   Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2010 Posts: 748 Points: 2,285 Location: bognor regis
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hi..do you want to know what colours you will need to paint the victory? cheers benny
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 Rank: Amateur Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/04/2010 Posts: 37 Points: 131 Location: northampton
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hello friend
before you rush off to start painting , i am not sure humbrol is the best paint to use on this type of kit. have a look at captain stedders hints and tips on painting and finishing further down the folders on this page you will find everything you may need to know before you start. best wishes steve
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 Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/04/2010 Posts: 491 Points: 1,460 Location: Poole
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turboman wrote:i am trying to see if anyonne here can help with the paints in humbrol i have a colour chart but cant find any paint colour guides anywhere i know i can order from cornwall boats but want to start today painting
Your enthusiasm is admirable but make sure that whatever paints you use you need to prep the surfaces thoroughly before you begin. As steveblyman kindly points out, I have written a pretty thorough walkthrough on the brushworks thread that covers a lot of the groundwork that you might want to take into account before lifting a brush. You probably won't need reminding that this build will probably cost more than £700 to complete, so it goes without saying that getting the right paint for the job is not only cost effective, but will give you the best chance of getting a result you can be proud of. Unfortunately, as you know, Humbrol use a number system for their paints which is as much use as a chocolate teapot when it comes to giving people advice on which colour is yellow ochre. Your best bet, if determined to use Humbrol, is to refer to pictures of the real HMS Victory, find an online retailer that uses colour swatches on their website and pick the colours that most closely match. Happy building. Schnellboots on back burner
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Hi, the conversion chart via this link may help you out http://www.paint4models.com/
Phil
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Joined: 02/04/2010 Posts: 491 Points: 1,460 Location: Poole
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Good find.  But would you recommend Humbrol for this build? Come to think of it; if you were painting, what paints would you use? Schnellboots on back burner
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 Rank: Beginner Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 03/04/2010 Posts: 8 Points: 27 Location: nottingham
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try tamia ( spelt wrong ) they are thin enough to both spray and mix ,so you wilkl always get the colour you want and are quite cheap £ 1.50 per jar and the colour range seems endless .hope it helps ,must go the tides coming in
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Capt Stedders wrote:Good find.  But would you recommend Humbrol for this build? Come to think of it; if you were painting, what paints would you use? Personally Rich, I don’t rate Humbrol paints to highly for any project but they are the popular choice for model shop stockists which probably has something to do with their general popularity!!! My Choice is the same as yours, good old Vallejo but with my current build HM Pickle I thought I’d try out the much talked about Admiralty range, based on the standard primmer followed by a 2:1 ratio they go on nicely with a good clean crisp finish - quite impressed with them actually Phil
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Cheers Phil. Tomick also recommends the Admiralty range. @ Turboman: Well, that's settled things in my mind at least - go with the Admiralty paints for the ship build and Vallejo Model Color paints for the crew figures. (and don't forget the importance of prepping and priming!) *nag, nag, nag* Schnellboots on back burner
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Your right there mate.... Vallejo is the way to go with all figure painting (except flesh areas)
Phil
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 Rank: Vice-Master      Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/03/2010 Posts: 507 Points: 1,571
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when it comes to paints i always go my own way, i paint everything in matt and then varnish for the finish needed, i.e. satin matt etc. etc., but listen to capt sted in these matters, he is the most informed talented person on this forum bar none, everyone is talking about the paints, it is very rare that i use a paint out of the pot, they are all too strong, i never use black in its pure form, they must be weakened to scale, otherwise your model will look like a toy, i would like to add if your not confident in mixing your paint make sure you mix enough for the complete build
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 Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/04/2010 Posts: 491 Points: 1,460 Location: Poole
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willz wrote: but listen to capt sted in these matters, he is the most informed talented person on this forum bar none, Yayy!! Go me! he he... only kidding.. All sound points - although I'm not entirely sure about the quote above.. (But thanks for the compliment nevertheless).. Seriously; as with most things, there is more than one way to 'skin a rabbit' and I KNOW that there are a few other experienced and talented painters out there *waves* It all boils down to cherry picking the ideas and techniques that work for the individual and, if one is inclined to take things further, developing them into an individual style. A lot of people will be happy to simply lay a coat of paint down and 'colour-in' their model (since becoming interested in ship modelling, I have noticed that this is the most common method), whereas in other areas of the hobby - most noticeably miniature painting, military modeling and model aircraft building, there is a lot more attention applied to getting a photo-realistic finish and weathering (The latter would be, in my opinion, inappropriate on a period ship unless done with mind blowing accuracy in a diorama setting). So, with the majority of members being happy to get a nice, even layer of paint on their model, I and the other painters, (you know who you are) can offer advice that will help them achieve this and maybe even add to each others knowledge in the process. If folk want to take things further - I and others will be happy to advise on how to do it. There's a lot of satisfaction to be gained from knowing that one's advice has helped another modeler to improve their skills. Schnellboots on back burner
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 Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2011 Posts: 851 Points: 2,628 Location: Leeds, Yorkshire
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Hi Rich
That was another excellent posting re: different approaches to the painting. You know that I have a lot of respect for your skills and knowledge. Can you or one of the other 'finish' experts just clarify what I should be doing next?
I am looking at my launch and wondering when to start on the painting. I have bought the Admiralty Victory paint set so those are what I will use. Rich, I don't want the super smooth finish that you got on your launch. If I say it almost looks plastic that is a compliment to your skills not a criticism. I want somehow to leave the impression that the launch has coats of paint over a wooden surface.
You consistently mention the importance of priming. If I can avoid it I would rather not spray Aerosols around my work room. (My hayfever sensitive nose might complain. OK could wear a mask as I do when wood turning) I couldn't see any paint-on primer on the Cornwall Model boat site, so can you recommend one?
Alternatively, can I simply prime the wood by using a thinned layer of the Admiralty paint in the same colour and gradually build up the thickness until the wood grain is about to disappear?
Mike T
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Mike. The simplest route would be (once you have sanded things down to a finish you are happy with) would be to apply a coat of sanding sealer, wait for it to dry, give the surface another gentle sanding and then start applying thinned coats of white paint over all surfaces (white being the best primer colour for light finishing colours - such as yellow). Once you have built up an even colour over the whole launch, you can then apply the colours - I use aerosol primers because they are quick and provide an even, flat finish that's ready for painting far faster than brushed-on Primer. The really important thing is to allow each coat to dry THOROUGHLY - if you don't, the previous layer is likely to soften and tear in places (this is mainly an issue with acrylics). The reason I lean toward a plastic-smooth finish (no offense taken, I do understand) is that whilst I would like to see some fine edges to the planks, there is no guarantee that the edges of the planks would be the only things proud of the surface of the planks themselves. As an example of what I am trying to get at, take a look at the pic of the painted build on the first page of the introductory 'Welcome to Build Lord Nelson's HMS Victory' pamphlet that came with issue one. Whilst you can see the planking construction, you can also see a horribly-out-of-scale surface to it, with wood fibre sticking out all over the place - most noticeable on the Yellow Ochre banding (perhaps it's the reason why the covers up to now seem to exclusively feature the wooden build and not the painted one). It's not exactly the best advert for the model. Schnellboots on back burner
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 Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/10/2011 Posts: 851 Points: 2,628 Location: Leeds, Yorkshire
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Cheers Rich I will have a look at what you suggest. Sounds like you have the same approach to 'furry' planks as to hairy ropes?? You mention making sure layers are dry. I have a pretty hot desk light which I use as a working light on my bench. I assume that leaving it on near the painted surface to accelerate the drying will be OK? Mike
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Sorry just to chip in for a sec, in terms of these vessel builds I always use this sealer (top of the page 1020) www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/fillers.htmlPhil
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 Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
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Mike Turpin wrote:Cheers Rich I will have a look at what you suggest. Sounds like you have the same approach to 'furry' planks as to hairy ropes?? You mention making sure layers are dry. I have a pretty hot desk light which I use as a working light on my bench. I assume that leaving it on near the painted surface to accelerate the drying will be OK? Mike Head, nail, hit.  Fur and hair is for animals and hairy things - not scale models. Just my (firmly held) belief, as you know. You could use your desk lamp (why haven't you got a energy saving daylight bulb yet?), but unless you know what you are doing, I'd avoid it and allow the paint to dry naturally (too many things can go wrong). Schnellboots on back burner
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 Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/06/2010 Posts: 23 Points: 65 Location: wales newport
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thanks capt stedders after all the discussions i orderd with cornwall model boats thanks to all the replys just waiting for delivery cheers turboman
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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/03/2010 Posts: 194 Points: 446 Location: Gloucestershire
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Hi Turboman, I don't know the numbers for Humbrol paints, but i have the numbers for Revell paints if thats any good to you. They are #4 16 85 87 90 93 94 302 310 330 350. Hope that helps you a bit. Glen Roger the Cabin Boy
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Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 226 Points: 647 Location: Merseyside
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And if you're STILL interested in Humbrol paints  ,Humbrol No 81 is as close to yellow ochre as they get. Tamiya paints are superb for air-brushing but not if you're using brushes. They dry to quick. especially on something the size of Victory. Dave H
Current builds :- Hachette 1/16 Tiger Tank H.M.S Victory, Santisima Trinidad (Section), 1/8 scale Aston Martin DB5, 1/8 scale McLaren, YNWA
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