Thank you for being kind, Claret.
I think it will do!
Much filler needed, especially at the bow, where there is quite a stepped effect and I don't want to sand away too much. I guess that is unavoidable.

I am quite happy with the bamboo so far.
Maybe I am lucky with the supplies I have had. Over 10% are perfect, without knots. Most have a knot at one end, which gets cut away as waste.
Where the knot is nearer the middle, I get a useful piece and an offcut for using later. I have not had to include any knots on the hull so far.
The strips take a bend easily just by soaking for half an hour in cold water, then clamping to the right curve and leaving to dry before using.

Thanks, Martyn.

Looking good David
I think that although you could fit drop planks,because this is unsupported first planking,you will get the best shape by tapering as you say.
Kind Regards Nigel

Two changes from the official instructions for the planking.

At the bow, I couldn't sand the tip of plank layer 11 to a smooth curve. So I decided to use a drop-plank method - at least, that's what I think you call it. This worked much better for me and the next plank went in easily.

At the stern infills, the instructions tell us to put in an offcut next to the bottom plank, then a tiny piece below that. I couldn't see how that little piece would glue in strongly - it has to overhang 2mm at the keel but there is barely any glueing area for it. So, I reversed the infill arrangement. Now, the bigger piece is fixed below, with a good glue joint. The little infill will go above.

Thanks Jase.
I was worried about the gaps between the planks at the stern. Every gap quoted was different and so, I started adding them up.
It is easy to fix them slightly out, with the twist and so on.
After 4 layers, I added up the gaps I should have, plus 5mm for each plank, then marked out for the next plank to the total depth I should have achieved.

Nicely done David and Jase gives good advice on letting the planks lay where the want to go, never force into position... also bear in mind the bamboo layer will sand down very nicely to give you the aim of a very smooth hull, all in preparation for the 2nd layer... Lovely job so far....

Regards

Alan

Thanks you guys for your encouragement.

sorry cpt,but must have word with marcel. hi marcel, I know you are trying to help.but the way it is written, it's comes off as criticism,I'm sure the cpt. is well aware of the build and will continue to improve as he progresses just like you.so a little more diplomacy please,and you won't hurt anyone else' s feelings. k.

Sorry Captain, I do not meant to critisize your work. You are doing a great job and I am sure it will turn out great. I apologise for not being diplomatic and will continue watching your diary.

Marcel

The planking has got to me a bit...
So, this is where I have got to with the launch.
The floor assembly painted and fitted.
Fore and aft gratings painted and fitted.
Thwarts etc fitted.

I painted the gratings with a Tamiya brown, rather than blackening. I am assuming that these are supposed to be hardwood gratings, so brown would be more realistic. It took two fine coats to get the brass covered, without too much filling in of the mesh. Yes, I know that I have glued the aft one in a little askew!

I have not fitted the thwarts exactly as per the instructions. I have discussed this elsewhere but I was puzzled by the positions of the oar slots - relative to the thwart benches - in the official build. The oar slots/rowlocks should be placed just in front of the rower, who will be facing aft. In the instructions, they are placed randomly, with no relationship to the seats. The way I have done it, the slots can be cut just next to the seats, without fouling a rib.

It all looks a bit messy on a blow-up photo but I think it looks OK in real scale.