|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
Hi Marcel I see what you are referring to now.There was an issue that got mentioned in build discussions many months ago called hull profile.There is a dip in the bulkheads around nos 26+27 which causes that inward shape.Alot of builders either packed the bulkheads or applied filler to this area after first planking.If you deviate to much in this area by removing material from the last bulkhead it may cause some grief when you come to fit the galleries.If you look at the hull profile post,this may make things a little clearer. Kind Regards Nigel
|
|
|
Hi Marcel, as Nigel has said it is far better to add packing to the rib formers using planking strips... It is something I wish I had done as in the end I had to resort to filling after the planking. As you haven't planked that area yet the packing out is you best option, don't go altering the ribs themselves as that could be a recipe for disaster.... Good luck with her.... Regards Alan
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/06/2013 Posts: 284 Points: 859 Location: Cape Town, South Africa
|
Thanks Alan and Nigel for the great help. I looked at the posts and agree rib 26 needs to be packed. Do I pack the complete sides of rib 26 or only partially where the dip is? I hope Kobus also picked it up, since he is also at the same stage! "Rather try and fail than had failed to try".Sovereign of the Seas Model Space forum: Marcel's build
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2013 Posts: 228 Points: 664 Location: Bursledon
|
Hi Marcel. Pack out with some of the spare thin strips supplied with the launch. These are 0.5 and 1mm. Just check with a bamboo planking strip, to see what thickness you need to add. It will not be the same thickness down all of the rib. I did this, then checked each bamboo plank as I fixed it, to check that the packing was still needed. Then I sanded the packing back to fair it, at the point where it was no longer needed. Everyone's build will be slightly different but I needed packing only at the upper parts of the rib - the vertical section.
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/06/2013 Posts: 284 Points: 859 Location: Cape Town, South Africa
|
Thanks Capt David and all members for the advice. I went through a couple of diaries to get a good idea what to do to rectify the profile. Without your help, I'll probably would end up using bodyfiller (only joking). I packed the ribs dry and the profile turns out to be realistic and smooths out to the end of the stern. The underside of the gallery automaticaly came in line with the side planks. I'll update with photos of the process. "Rather try and fail than had failed to try".Sovereign of the Seas Model Space forum: Marcel's build
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/06/2013 Posts: 284 Points: 859 Location: Cape Town, South Africa
|
Packing the ribs and gluedAfter steaming the bamboo and bending it, I fitted it dry in place and left for a day to rest. It took the rib's profile very well. I used 4 (2x4mm) bamboo and carefully sanded it down to a 1.5 mm thickness with fine grain sanding paper... a process that went rather quick. I gauge the thickness with an electronic caliper. This strips is now to be glued onto rib #26 and #27 and left for a day to dry completely. When ready, the new strips are to be futher carefully sanded down to take the profile of the hull and then shamfered for the planking to sits close and tight. The picture shows a strip glued and the other strip posed dry fitted to show the steamed method. Marcel attached the following image(s): "Rather try and fail than had failed to try".Sovereign of the Seas Model Space forum: Marcel's build
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
Nice work Marcel It may have been a little setback,but this will save messing with filler later Kind Regards Nigel
|
|
|
Well done Marcel, should work out very nicely for you now.... Regards Alan
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/06/2013 Posts: 284 Points: 859 Location: Cape Town, South Africa
|
Thanks Alan and Nigel for the advice and support and also other members of the forum who make this build become a reality. I find the contouring of the packed ribs very time consuming. At least I am very satisfied with the results so far. That nasty ditch seems to be gone. I plan to be back on schedule by the week-end. The wet weather will keep me indoors, which makes plenty time of playing. I am to re-glue the planks which should be finish by Saturday. Its a slow process due to the cold weather that keeps me under the blankets away from the SOTS... (Brrr) "Rather try and fail than had failed to try".Sovereign of the Seas Model Space forum: Marcel's build
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/06/2013 Posts: 284 Points: 859 Location: Cape Town, South Africa
|
I have done the planking of the underside gallery. I use the side planks to gauge the contour of rib #27. To plank the underside Gallerry, I used 4x5mm planks (5mm bamboo cut to 4 mm) to get a closer fit into the bottom round profile of brackets #30. The 5mm planks do not sit well into the roundness of the bootom brackets. By doing this, I do not have to cut fillers.I end up using 13 planks which of some measure 5.5mm; 5mm and 4mm. I mentioned that I do have a mixed supply of 5mm and 5.5mm bamboo. It came in handy for those awkward spaces. My 0.3mm bit broke leaving me bored again. I tried to nail the plank without drilling, but its everybody's bussines that the bamboo did split (F@#%K). Off I go to do some... Marcel attached the following image(s): "Rather try and fail than had failed to try".Sovereign of the Seas Model Space forum: Marcel's build
|
|
|
Nicely done Marcel, looks as if the stern will sand down very nicely.... .. As for your broken drill, I snipped the head off of a dressmakers pin, inserted than into the dremel and used that to drill the holes for my deck planking... find the pin is stronger than the micro drills, perhaps you could give this a try... .. Well done on the stern... Regards Alan
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/06/2013 Posts: 284 Points: 859 Location: Cape Town, South Africa
|
Hi Alan Thanks for the support and guidance. I did try the pin, but its a pain as I do not own a Dremmel. I use an adapter and turns it by hand. I use Somta Cobolt steel bits and take the abuse well. At R40,00 a piece ($3.35 or 3.50 GBP) it should be good. I wish to get to the planking of the keel section, but patience is a virtue. Its one plank at a time when its time... I am getting better by the day as I invent new methods to my madness, some good, most of them rubbish. We had snowfall on the famous Table Mountain, therefore freezing my . "Rather try and fail than had failed to try".Sovereign of the Seas Model Space forum: Marcel's build
|
|
|
Know how you feel Marcel, living here in the north of Scotland we are very used to the freezing conditions... .. That's the main reason I do my building indoors rather than in a garage or shed.... .. Am sure it will warm up soon for you.... Regards Alan
|
|
Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 02/09/2012 Posts: 515 Points: 1,515 Location: Burnley
|
Hi Marcel, Coming along nicely. I have lost many drill bits doing the planking, but found some of the broken ones still drill and last longer !!! Regards Claret Also working on: SOTS. Moebius 1/32 Flying Sub with PE & lights.
Waiting in the wings: Polarlights Spindrift from Land of the Giants.
finished: 007 Iconic DB5.
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/04/2013 Posts: 287 Points: 859 Location: Hartbeespoort, NW, South Africa
|
Hi Marcel Planking looks great thus far! I'm in your valley and is freezing my but off, but enjoying it! Will be here for the next week, thus no building for me till we get home again. So keep them posting so that I can see what is waiting for me! Must say that a 0.5 mm drillbit with the Dremmel works great! Regards Kobus
Current Build HMS Sovereign of the Seas - First Build
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/06/2013 Posts: 284 Points: 859 Location: Cape Town, South Africa
|
Thank you for your kind remarks guys. Planking is in slow mode. At least I am at Issue 19 now. I had a hick up (again) with the spacers and busy to sand it to profile. When all is done I'll post pics to view of my progress. "Rather try and fail than had failed to try".Sovereign of the Seas Model Space forum: Marcel's build
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/06/2013 Posts: 284 Points: 859 Location: Cape Town, South Africa
|
With some tweaking, I manage to get a few planks done. The backfilling does not make it easy to plank, as I have to watch every plank careful that it sits well with the new profile. Although its time consuming, its worthwhile doing it as prescribed by my teachers. I have removed the hull from the jig... (Thank goodness) to start on the Garboard planks. This should be an easier task, because I did not put the back filler all the way on the offending ribs. The minor flaws in the planking can be rectified with woodfiller and sealer. I came across a cleaner cloth damp with alcohol. Apperantly it removes the residue left by the glue line. I want to give it a try. I followed the deck plate strict when I laid the first row and graduately relaxing the strain of the wood-grain as I proceed to the next row. I am happy with the natural flow of the planks . Marcel attached the following image(s): "Rather try and fail than had failed to try".Sovereign of the Seas Model Space forum: Marcel's build
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/04/2013 Posts: 287 Points: 859 Location: Hartbeespoort, NW, South Africa
|
Hi Marcel The planking looks great!!! Wouldn't the alcohol also loosen the glue between the planks? Regards Kobus
Current Build HMS Sovereign of the Seas - First Build
|
|
|
Marcel your Isopropyl cleaning cloth is essential rubbing alcohol. It is meant for use on hard surfaces when used as a cleaner.
I would not recommend anybody using this on their models. it may react with your adhesives and interfere with painting.
Always best to use products aimed at model building if your not familiar with the properties of other products.
Jase“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.” -Mark Twain
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
|
Hi Marcel Kobus and Jase are correct.Isopropyl alcohol is what you use to separate joints glued fast with wood glue.It is the business to take things apart so beware. Kind Regards Nigel
|
|
Guest (2)
|