Issue 18

I want to start with the garboard planks, but need your knowledge of laying the first tapered plank. Bear with me on this, I am on a training course for kids. I do understand how to make the tapers, but...

In General building of laying tapers
How do you determine where to start the taper of the garboard and where on the keel the sharp point had to be placed? Tomick show his starts between #2 and #5. The Question arises why not placing it at a stronghold as on #2 or on #5. There have to be a method to the madness...

Thank you David for the tip. I took your advice and glued pieces from the fret onto the keel.

I want to find out if there is a basic method to go about when laying the garboard planks. The instructions show you to place it as shown, but why not closer or futher from the front.

If there are methods for advanced builders, show me please. Surely we do not want to stay emulators for life.

The top of the tree is where I want to be,
but for now I'll pee against the tree.

Thanks Nigel for taking the time to teach me craft skills.

I have read a thread regarding planking and together with your input, it all make sense to me where to put the garboard. Incorrect placing of the garboard can result in crowding of the remaining planks.
Plank spilling technique is defenitely a skill to be trained thoroughly.

Marcel

I went to the "School for Dummies" to learn how to climb this tree Nigel refers to.

The Garboard plank should not be carried up too high the upward curve. Most beginners (like me) make this mistake and result in crowding of the hooding ends of the remainder planks and be too narrow.
If you side bend the planks (edge set) the plank's edge will lift off the frame, making the glue joint weak or impossible. Edge set have a clinker effect on your hull's planking which add extra work to rectify it.

Fitting stealers: I thought its tapering a plank and fills the gap. But you have to cut the taper's end into a < shape and joint it in the middle with 2 planks: 2 becomes 3 (like a highway splits into 3 lanes).
If you are not familiar with stealers,half or full I recommend you to do some research or PM me to send you the info in PDF.

No, I am not a college graduate now, but I learned alot from members of this forum. If you are like me, you want to be at the top-sails, (what are they called?) enjoying the compliments of your hard work.

Thank you Jase for your input. I am at the "Noob-School" and I want to learn this technique as a building block.
Any booboos here, will be hidden under the second planking.

Hi Marcel
I was going to give you the name of a really good book on planking,but can I find it .I am planning on posting a review on this book as it has some invaluable tips for beginners.
I understand what you mean by dividing the hull up with battens.This really is only necessary if you want the plank layout of the outer layer authentic.If you use this technique for the first planking as well,you run the danger of the patterns being the same on both layers.This can reduce the overlapping between the two layers and weaken the hull.My advice would be concentrate on a fair solid surface on the first planking as it is only a base layer,then be artistic with the second planking that is on show.That way,you will have completely different patterns,making a strong hull.
As regards the cannons,If you have ordered the bronze coloured A latina ones,they are the same as the ones supplied,just prefinished in the bronze Patina.The cannons for the hull haven't been supplied on the Italian forum so I don't think anyone knows other than A Latina.
Kind Regards Nigel

Hi Nigel, Keep searching for the book/s please, its usualy kept high out of reach of wife and kids hands.

Thanks for pointing out the second layer. I am now only going to straighten the 2nd band due to the set egde I did to follow the decks . I noticed I have a few planks that clinker at the bow section due to the set edging (only find out recently its a bad thing).
At the stern section I shall have to fit a stealer/dropper to ease the planking towards the keel. If I can do all this in one band, I should be OK with the rest of the original built diary.

Regarding the cannons, it is the bronze ones. I am not fond of tinkering with chemicals. I might order enough for the top deck and keep the unpainted ones for whatever. I was going for blue gun the cannons at the gunshop, but Nah... do not like the colour.

Hi Marcel
Pleased to say I found said book last night
'Planking Techniques for Model Ship Builders' by Donald Dressel ISBN 978-0-8306-2868-1.I got my copy through Amazon and it's not expensive.There are many articles on the internet but none of them go into planking to the same depth as this book.Now that I have found it,I will do a review over the weekend.
You are right,I have seen these cannons in my local modelshop.The finish is identical to the Amati ones I posted on my log.You will struggle to replicate this finish.If you order these cannons complete with carriages,they come with laser cut walnut carriages not plywood.
Kind Regards Nigel

Its been a while since I did an update on my build.
I laid row six (from the deck)in a straight line to remove the klinker effect. This caused gaps that need to be filled with droppers. At the bow I used a 3mm dropper and in the middle a filler plank. I am happy with the results.

Nicely done Marcel, keep at it and you will reap the rewards...

Regards

Alan