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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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I have had many PM's about this and although some of the info is to be found in another post I made in the Victory section, it is difficult to find and also in two different sections.
I have used the copper tape with and without marking rivets and there are pics below to show each one so you can decide for yourself what you prefer. It will depend on the scale of the boat and of course if you like the look of it.
First, here are a couple of pics to show the differences -
The first 3 pics are with rivets -
The next 3 pics show the coppering without using rivets -
To start with you will need a couple of rolls of copper tape - This is the one i used and 1.5 rolls were required for a large hull, at about £7.50 ish a roll.
If you decide you want rivets then a pounce wheel will be required. The pounce wheel used looked like this and leaves a nail mark at around every 2mm.
Measure around 5inches of copper tape for each piece, you don't want these too long or they become difficult to handle with the backing tape off, you may also need to cut down to single tiles for the more tricky areas.
Thats a narrow 6inch rule in the pic BTW.
Note - You need the hull very smooth if you are using copper tape, it is much thinner than copper plates and will show dents and dips in the hull if it's not perfectly smooth first.
With the rule about 1.5-2mm from one edge roll the pounce wheel down the backing paper side of the strip - I used balsa as a base as it gave a deeper impression, but if you like a less defined impression then a cutting mat will do this, a hardwood surface will give the smallest nail impression.
I then used the pounce to create each tile using the rules width as a tile size for speed, much faster than measuring, this will create about 7 or 8 tiles per strip.
Tip - If you lay out around 10 strips and can clamp at one end to keep them still you can create rivets across all the strips in one go for the individual tiles
Lay the strips in the same way as the normal tiles in brick like fashion, the copper tape is very sticky and will stick fine to bare wood - no need to prime or paint first, it also can be peeled off if you make a mistake, very easy to trim too, i found it best to size and cut each piece with the backing still on the tape.
When all done i used patina it to get the blue/green colour, looks much nicer for real than on the pics too. You can paint the solution onto the tiles with a large soft brush or dab on with cotton wool, then leave overnight.
Next day you can rub or brush off any unwanted patina to give the effect you want and when happy i used a matt clear water based laquer to seal it.
Hope all this helps!
Note - When brushing or rubbing off the dry patina the next day you must take safety precautions, copper chloride dust will not do you any good if breathed in!
A couple of final notes - if you are not going to do rivets then you still need to mark the individual tiles on each strip - I did this with a blunt blade in a plank cutter (seen in one of the pics above) when pressed gently leaves a separation line for each tile.
Also, if you prefer to use copper tape but want to use separate tiles as you would if using real tiles then you can make the tile cuts with the plank cutter, after a bit of practice you can use the correct pressure to cut through the copper but not the backing tape, they can then be peeled off as and when required - no need to create the 5 inch strips either.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,051 Points: -13,308
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Great item for the know-how topic Stevie, and congrats on receiving the Turquoise Medal for doing it 
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/04/2010 Posts: 5,787 Points: 17,662 Location: Stafford, United Kingdom
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Very good Tutorial Steve Kind regards Mike MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.
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Gives a good informative alternative to the tilling option, and there is no deniying the end result Top Job Steve J “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Nicely put together Steve! That's exactly the method I used on my Vic except I'd never heard of a Pounce Wheel! I used the circular saw blade off my rotary tool and did the short edge rivets by hand with a darning needle tip! (Really gives the cramps in your fingers though!) It's got to be rivets! I know some have said that in this scale you wouldn't see them, (mine is in 1/100 which is even smaller) but if the real thing has rivets - so does mine. (but not quite as many though!) Great Article, and I'm still thinking about that patina! Robin First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
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 Rank: Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/03/2011 Posts: 1,344 Points: 4,079 Location: Bryanston, Johannesburg. RSA
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Brilliant tutorial Steve, well done. Rgds, Hans
"It's okay to make mistakes. mistakes are our teachers - they help us to to learn, even if it is painfully"
Current Build:
Endeavour Cross section,D51
Completed: HMS Victory
Under the bench: Endeavour x 2,Sovereign of the Seas, Akagi and The Black Pearl!HMS Victory Cross Section
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