the poop deck will be lined so make sure you have covered the deck right upto the bulkhead pieces.(ribs)

yes it won't be seen, good luck. k.

Hi all folks,
Back to the build again . Need some advice please, I am issue 61 and doing the fighting top as you can see from the pictures my measurement is further down than the picture 38mm,has any body had this slight dilemma and if you have how did you solve it.
Could i reduce the 6mm to 13mm to 12mm on both sides, as it will just about hit the cross-trees on the other side.Hope that makes sense.
Thanks for listening
rob

Looking good Rob and am pleased you got your answer.... .. Couldn't help as I haven't started my Vic yet.....

Regards

Alan

Hi folks,
I am seriously considering buying the copper tiles for my build,has any body any advice any drawbacks,It does look good but a bit apprehensive of how difficult it would be.
any input appreciated
thanks

Hi Rob

I tiled my own Delprado Victory using the rolls of self-adhesive copper tape sold on e-bay for either dolls house wireing or anti slug defence in the garden!
It works out a fraction of the cost of the 'proper' copper tiles and gives (I think) just as good a finish. (More so in fact as adding the rivets yourself means you can get more of them in for a more authentic appearance and there's no messy glueing either).
To be honest, it's not that difficult as long as you take it slow and steady, even the thicker copper tiles are not that much more tricky, its just like building a wall out of house bricks in 2D, start up against the keel and work in continuous straight horizontal lines working upwards (working alternatively port and starboard) You'll find the rows will take up their own gentle curves at the bow and stern just like the planks did.
Note! if you are going for the ultra authentic finish (which I didn't!) you have a straight line of tiles curving up at the bow and stern about a third of the way up from the keel to the waterline, this becomes the 'datum' line which the lower tiles run up to meet, the ones above that line then proceed up to the waterline itself. This is probably only for the rivet counters though, it looks just as good without it!

Best of Luck with whatever method you go with, it really makes the ship look great though!

Robin

Thanks for the info JOHN.ROBIN.ALAN I must admit I have learned to be patient since building this ship, so It should be ok to go ahead and tile then. I looked at your copper tiling john and looks great!!. It is just the rivet look I am concerned about,do I or don`t I mark the rivets ,MMMMMM. This is the stage I am at and just started doing the masts etc.
So thanks to all for input. all in all, I will be patient.
greatly appreciated

All right Sparks! I'll admit it, I'm a rivet counter too! The truth is I forgot to check the tile diagram from the McGowan book until I was half way up the sides! And I wasn't going to pull 'em all off again!
There have been some discussions about the rivets on other diaries here, and although it's perfectly true that in the scale of the Victory model you wouldn't actually see the rivets, I'm of the persuasion that, if the real thing has rivets then so should the model!
I managed to achieve 12 rivets along the top and bottom and 8 on the sides by using a dremel type circular saw for the top/bottom and a sewing needle to punch in the side ones by hand. The actual full size tiles or plates have 31 top and bottom and 10 on the sides! It's a hell of a difference but the overall effect is acceptible.
I agree, your hull looks just fine for coppering, the main difference between the copper tape and the thicker tiles is that with the tape the hull MUST be smooth or the tape will accentuate every dip and bump whereas the hull SHOULD be smooth for the tiles, BUT, you can get away with a little more due to their extra thickness.

Put up some pics when you begin, oh! and paint the black hull before you get to the waterline, its much easier that way!

Robin

Hi Rob

Er, yes, my English slipped a little there! What I meant to say was that if you paint the hull black from below the lowest yellow stripe down to say, 1/2 an inch below the waterline, and then pencil in the waterline itself, you can copper tile up to that line and then you don't have the problem of painting the black part of the hull down to the copper tiles with the almost inevitable splashes of paint on to the copper.
When I painted my Victory (which is admittedly quite a bit smaller than yours) I painted the entire hull sides with two coats of Admiralty Yellow Ochre (from the waterline up) and when completely dry after a couple of days masked off the stripes with Frog Tape (a new type of masking tape specially formulated for water based paints) and painted the black stripes on top of the yellow base. You should get a brighter yellow this way than trying to paint the yellow over the black and with luck you only need to use the masking tape once for each line.
And yes! All 4000! That was another plus with the tape, I could do them in six inch strips and just run the saw blade along the edges (the needle produced rivets took a lot longer and the cramp gave my fingers hell!)

Robin

http://www.shipwrightsho...ll-Detail-Fittings.html

Hi folks, Just found this site hull copper tiles with the rivets marks on them, two choices of tiles.
You never know now
cheers
rob