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planking problems Options
jeff averre
#1 Posted : 20 November 2010 01:35:02

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I'm a bit further ahead than Tomick with the planking due to the extra delivery of planking, I've used all the extra planking and sanded it down, from a distance it looks fine, but looking closer there are lots of 'cracks' which appear to have been caused by the 'plank bender' (suplied with the kit), all my planks were shaped and soaked before bending, I may have over done the sanding but the sections where I did not use the p/bender are fine.
I'm not too bothered because I'm second planking and it won't be visible, I just thought that anyone varnishing this planking may be diapointed with the finish and could need an alternative way of bending, thinking back I could probably have managed without the bender!
Here's some pic's so you can see what I mean, but one question before I go on second planking, what's the best glue to use? (vineer is 1/2 x 4mm).



IAN
#2 Posted : 20 November 2010 09:00:18

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Hi Jeff..

Thanks for the planking detail. I would like to plank the hull before moving on to
any other tasks.
It looks like the gun port framing is under way next week, but i am still thinking of staining the wood before framing.

Regards,
Ian
Ian
Builds in progress: E-type, HMS Victory, HMS Endeavour, HMS Soverein of the Seas
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alantait
#3 Posted : 20 November 2010 09:31:38

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wow, if i get anywhere near that i will be more than happy, mine will probably neak like a sieveDrool Drool Drool
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victory,endeavour,thermoplye,constitution
Tomick
#4 Posted : 20 November 2010 11:36:58

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I've used a plank bender throughout my build and found no such problem.
z8000783
#5 Posted : 20 November 2010 11:40:13

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What does "plank bender supplied with the kit" mean? I haven't received one, I don't think.

John
karl1113
#6 Posted : 20 November 2010 11:42:30

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jeff averre ,hi,did you reverse the blade in the bender?using the blunt end?I used the sharp end and I kept snipping the plank into pieces,when I used the blunt side all was ok.
Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory
Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat.

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Tomick
#7 Posted : 20 November 2010 11:43:00

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Correct its the blunt edge for bending.

z8000783 - Those who subsrcibed to the series received a free tool kit which includes a nip plank bender.
z8000783
#8 Posted : 20 November 2010 11:46:32

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Tomick wrote:
Those who subsrcibed to the series received a free tool kit which includes a nip plank bender.

Oh you mean that thing that looks like a pair of secateurs?

Is that going to be necessary rather than using steam? I didn't want to use pins let along that.

John
Tomick
#9 Posted : 20 November 2010 11:49:19

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Use which ever method suits you best.
Son of Bulwark
#10 Posted : 20 November 2010 11:49:46

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z8000783 wrote:
What does "plank bender supplied with the kit" mean? I haven't received one, I don't think.

John


This John!
Son of Bulwark attached the following image(s):
Bender.jpg
z8000783
#11 Posted : 20 November 2010 11:53:34

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Tomick wrote:
Use which ever method suits you best.

Tomick, being a novice I am not in a position to know what suits me best yet, which is why the advice here is so useful.

So if someone manages to bend the planks around the bow or the stern without it then that's great to hear about, but if everyone says it can't be done, especially you, then I will take note of that.

John
piot007
#12 Posted : 20 November 2010 12:06:51

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z8000783 wrote:
Tomick wrote:
Those who subsrcibed to the series received a free tool kit which includes a nip plank bender.

Oh you mean that thing that looks like a pair of secateurs?

Is that going to be necessary rather than using steam? I didn't want to use pins let along that.

John


Im no where near planking at the mo. But I think the idea is basically the same as how we installed the gun support lengths on the decks.
The 'nip' will be on the inside of the plank i think. Im still gonna use hot soaks to help with the bend tho. If you dont want to leave marks then i would clamp them while the glue dries.

Can anyone help me on this one tho?

When ive soaked the plank and nipped it to the right bend. Should i let it dry out thoroughly before tapering with sandpaper and gluing it to the frame.
Will the drying process straighten out the plank?
If so, should i taper it at that dryed stage, then soak it again, bend it again then glue it to frame slightly damp?
Ive never sanded wood when its damp.
Im still panicked by all this lol
Cheerz,
Piot
i dont know what weapons will be used in ww3 but ww4 will be sticks and stones.
piot007
#13 Posted : 20 November 2010 14:07:37

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lol should read all posts before posting myself. neh-mind. LOL
i dont know what weapons will be used in ww3 but ww4 will be sticks and stones.
daffy09
#14 Posted : 20 November 2010 15:00:42

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Hi Jeff,
I hope my planking looks as good as yours when I get that far into the build. From my inexperienced eye, I don't think you've got much to worry about Jeff, I think it looks amazing.
Daffy09
daffy09
#15 Posted : 20 November 2010 16:06:03

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Hello Piot007
I think I can help you a little with those questions although a look at Zeptrader's threads on the subject will help you a lot.
I read somewhere that when the wood is wet it swells so its best to leave it some sort of former to dry out so that when it is dry, it;s shape will be retained, but again a visit to Zeptrader will sort you out. I would assume that if the planks swell when wet, they will shrink a little as they dry out. A former can be a used ice-cream lid or a flat piece of wood with pegs or nails that describe the shape you want to achieve.
Hope that helps a little, I'm pretty inexperienced at this myself and a lot of the skills I have gained have been through some of the valuable information given on this forum, Tomick, Zeptrader, Magpie and Lonestar Spirit to name but a few.
Happy building
Daffy09
Zeptrader
#16 Posted : 20 November 2010 16:56:38

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Just to add in at his point, I'm actually needing to bend one plank now, Ive soaked it in hot water for about 20mins, then boil the kettle to give it another soak (hot) just a few seconds later (make sure you dont burn your hands) is to take the very supple plank and offer it up to the area on the ship you want to plank, using what ever method you have clip and hold the plank on the formers overnight...this will then be dry and keep its shape.


I'm doing a step by step guide (pics) of laying one plank, if it helps those new to this.
Tiswas
#17 Posted : 20 November 2010 17:28:39

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I have managed to complete the bow planking using the sharp side of the plank bender and a lot of patience. I found that just creasing the wood very closely helps achieve the desired curve. Now Tomick says that we should be using the blunt side of the blade. Will give it a try, that's if I can get the blade our after all the crimping.??? Confused Confused Confused
TIS
Tiswas
#18 Posted : 20 November 2010 17:31:37

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jeff averre wrote:
I'm a bit further ahead than Tomick with the planking due to the extra delivery of planking, I've used all the extra planking and sanded it down, from a distance it looks fine, but looking closer there are lots of 'cracks' which appear to have been caused by the 'plank bender' (suplied with the kit), all my planks were shaped and soaked before bending, I may have over done the sanding but the sections where I did not use the p/bender are fine.
I'm not too bothered because I'm second planking and it won't be visible, I just thought that anyone varnishing this planking may be diapointed with the finish and could need an alternative way of bending, thinking back I could probably have managed without the bender!
Here's some pic's so you can see what I mean, but one question before I go on second planking, what's the best glue to use? (vineer is 1/2 x 4mm).




It's is possible that the wood was allowed to dry out too quickly? just a thought.
TIS
Tomick
#19 Posted : 20 November 2010 17:48:22

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Tiswas wrote:
I have managed to complete the bow planking using the sharp side of the plank bender and a lot of patience. I found that just creasing the wood very closely helps achieve the desired curve. Now Tomick says that we should be using the blunt side of the blade. Will give it a try, that's if I can get the blade our after all the crimping.??? Confused Confused Confused
TIS


The sharp or blade side is designed to cut planks, the blunt side of the blade designed to nip planks for bending.
jeff averre
#20 Posted : 20 November 2010 18:37:51

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Thats it then! I was using the sharp side of the blade (the way it came), I never picked up on it being turned round, I've never used one of these plank benders before and as far as this kit is concerned I probably won't need it again as the remaining bends are not too tight.
I don't know why there is a sharp side, I would'nt dream of cutting a plank with it!
Jeff
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