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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1  Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/01/2017 Posts: 50 Points: 150
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Rear end modifications StevieDisco attached the following image(s): "A picture is worth a thousand words but a model is worth a thousand pictures" - Harley J. Earl
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 Nice work  Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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 Rank: Super-Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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Oh wow, beautiful work with the modifications that you have made  
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/01/2017 Posts: 50 Points: 150
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Thank you. I have a question regarding dashboard lighting. Are the instruments lit up when the headlights are turned on? If not, has anyone tried modifying the kit circuitry to include dash lighting? "A picture is worth a thousand words but a model is worth a thousand pictures" - Harley J. Earl
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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StevieDisco wrote:Thank you.
I have a question regarding dashboard lighting. Are the instruments lit up when the headlights are turned on? If not, has anyone tried modifying the kit circuitry to include dash lighting? There is no lighting for the instrument panels. It would be quite an impressive modification if you go that route
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/01/2017 Posts: 50 Points: 150
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Thanks guys. Previously I posted a photo showing some 1:10 scale RC shock absorbers before I modified them for use in the Shelby. They're all metal and disassemble easily. Since I deleted the coil springs from the rear axle I need some operable shocks and these work really bice. I used 3/32" aluminum tube with 0-80 threaded rod inserted. I also had to make a new bushing out of 1/8" tube. Some rubber tube and 2 sizes of washers and a nut and that's it. They might seem a little long but when I made my own u-bolts that jacked the rear end up slightly and I'm also making my own upper shock mount which jacked it up a little also. I don't mind a little rake but if the shocks turn out to be a little too long it's easy enough to make a new lower tube. StevieDisco attached the following image(s): "A picture is worth a thousand words but a model is worth a thousand pictures" - Harley J. Earl
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/01/2017 Posts: 50 Points: 150
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And here are the rear upper shock mounts, made from Evergreen square & round plastic tube and strip. The hardware is 0-80. The kit mount is shown for comparison. My version will mount in the same place and manner as the kit piece. StevieDisco attached the following image(s): "A picture is worth a thousand words but a model is worth a thousand pictures" - Harley J. Earl
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Rank: Super-Elite   Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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Looks some brilliant work being put into this one. Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Stunning work, looking at the pictures, it could be the real thing.  Regards Mark
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/01/2017 Posts: 50 Points: 150
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Here is my prototype starter relay (solenoid) for the Shelby. I used 1/4" Evergreen angle stock, 3/16" round tube, .040" sheet, 0-80 and 00-90 screws & nuts. I need to tweak it a bit but overall it looks to be both functional and visually acceptable. I'd appreciate any comments and/or suggestions as well as maybe photos of other members versions. I'm also making a voltage regulator. On another note, I had to re-do my front brake calipers after inadvertently putting the brake line fitting on the wrong side. That's what happens when you work in the shop until the wee hours of the morning. Oh well. It gave me a chance to re-paint it bright red instead of Italian red which just didn't look right. I should have those done by this weekend and will post pictures. Thanks again for all comments and suggestions. StevieDisco attached the following image(s): "A picture is worth a thousand words but a model is worth a thousand pictures" - Harley J. Earl
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 Rank: Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/07/2015 Posts: 1,292 Points: 3,928 Location: Allentown PA
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Awesome work. Really ramping up the detail.
DeAgostini kit builds:
Millennium Falcon: 18% Complete
Shelby GT-500: 28% Complete
Thunderbird 2: 13.75% Complete
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/01/2017 Posts: 50 Points: 150
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I didn't finish the brake calipers last weekend as I ran out of .5mm screws to mount the brake pads. But I did work a bit on the steering rack and track rods. After stripping the paint off the parts I polished them with steel wool and then sprayed on a coat of lacquer. I'm using button-head cap screws to connect the rods as I prefer the rounded head in this application. When I actually install this assembly I will substitute lock nuts for the standard hex nuts presently securing the rods. I painted the steering box (metallic gray) and cylinder (gun metal gray). I also finalized, built and painted the starter relay mentioned earlier. It will mount near the battery on the right side inside fender well and connect to the battery, starter, voltage regulator, etc. StevieDisco attached the following image(s): "A picture is worth a thousand words but a model is worth a thousand pictures" - Harley J. Earl
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/07/2015 Posts: 1,292 Points: 3,928 Location: Allentown PA
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Looks amazing so far. Amazing what a bit of extra work and paint can do. Every time I see these mods and upgrades I wonder why I didn't think of that. Maybe on my next car kit I will try for the super detail look.
DeAgostini kit builds:
Millennium Falcon: 18% Complete
Shelby GT-500: 28% Complete
Thunderbird 2: 13.75% Complete
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Looks great, some really nice touches.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/01/2017 Posts: 50 Points: 150
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Thanks guys. I got a little inspired and decided to mock up the rear end. Everything seemed to fit okay. The driveshaft is aluminum tube that will be cut to length once I know the exact length. The driveshaft universals are 3-D printed units. StevieDisco attached the following image(s): "A picture is worth a thousand words but a model is worth a thousand pictures" - Harley J. Earl
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/01/2017 Posts: 50 Points: 150
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I finished applying the lacquer to my wheels so they're ready to send to Bob at Chrome Tech USA to be chromed. The American Racing Decals were done by Geoff at CustomHobbyDecals.com in Australia. He uses an ultra high-resolution printer and his work is amazing. I'll be adding valve stems from RB Motion later as well as miniature hardware for the center caps and acorn nuts for the lug nuts. StevieDisco attached the following image(s): "A picture is worth a thousand words but a model is worth a thousand pictures" - Harley J. Earl
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/01/2017 Posts: 50 Points: 150
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I'm also going to repaint the body. I use a paint stripper and a wire brush and steel wool to remove the paint followed by soaking the parts in Castrol Super Clean (de-greaser). The kit body parts are very nicely tooled pieces but still needed some TLC. Flat sanding from course (in places) followed by medium and fine (600 grit). I then sprayed on several coats of Tamiya Fine Primer. Next step will be to wet sand a spray on more primer. I'll then store the parts until I receive the remaining body parts and give them the same treatment. I'd prefer to paint all of the body parts at the same time for consistency. Note also that I decided to remove the hood-pin locks from the hood. StevieDisco attached the following image(s): "A picture is worth a thousand words but a model is worth a thousand pictures" - Harley J. Earl
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/07/2015 Posts: 1,292 Points: 3,928 Location: Allentown PA
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Nice work on the body. Doing it up like you would on a real car. What color you planning on? Also where did you get your wheels? I wanted to do same style of wheels. I went the 1/10 R/C route but wasn't happy with they results.
DeAgostini kit builds:
Millennium Falcon: 18% Complete
Shelby GT-500: 28% Complete
Thunderbird 2: 13.75% Complete
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 09/01/2017 Posts: 50 Points: 150
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Thanks. I'm leaning towards Tamiya Racing Green but I think all black would be nice also. As far as the wheels, the idea started with a set of tires from a Monogram 1985 Corvette. They’re the same diameter as the Shelby tires and slightly wider. They’re also a lot easier to work with. I wanted a Torq-thrust looking mag so I used the 5-spoke inside part from a Revell Big Tub kit. I just had to figure a way to make them fit the ‘Vette tires. The inside dimension of the tires was exactly 2” so I went with 2” PVC tube for the body of the wheel and used .040 Evergreen sheet to make 2 different inside diameter rings for each side of the wheel. The larger ring fits the groove on the tire (note that the outer rim was 56mm and the inner rim was 54mm for some reason so I had to make 2 sizes). The smaller inside diamter ring sits on top of the larger ring. The pictures show the assembly progression. A piece of Everegreen .040 x .040 strip goes inside the PVC tube flush with the outer edge. That’s what holds the spoke portion in place (it gets mounted from the rear). That’s about it. StevieDisco attached the following image(s): "A picture is worth a thousand words but a model is worth a thousand pictures" - Harley J. Earl
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/07/2015 Posts: 1,292 Points: 3,928 Location: Allentown PA
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That's pretty freaking awesome right there. Thanks for sharing.
DeAgostini kit builds:
Millennium Falcon: 18% Complete
Shelby GT-500: 28% Complete
Thunderbird 2: 13.75% Complete
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