Hi Folks
After a considerable break at attempting to build a model ship from card I have had a new lease of enthusiasm

I have been over ambitious in my previous attempts choosing large and complex ships and ending up in a muddle.

The subject I have chosen is the SMS Schleswig Holstein by GPM at 1/200 scale giving a total length of 66cm.

More manageable at scaling up to 1/100 and a lot less superstructure and upper deck parts

She was a pre dreadnought launched in 1906 and was immediately out dated by the British dreadnoughts of the time.

She is credited with firing the first salvo near Danzig that OFFICIALLY began WW2.

MY PREP
Build board

Carpet spray adhesive for gluing card templates to cardboard(cheaper than smaller cans of a well known spray brand)

Tacky glue for gluing cardboard (less wet than PVA- moisture and paper doesn't do well)

Snap blade knifes which I use free hand drawing along the lines.I can't cut 2mm thick card in one go.
Best to draw lightly along the line to provide a track for the blade to follow when applying slightly more pressure next few strokes to cut thru.
Swan Norton type blades I find are too thin and sharp and causes me to judder along the line as it cuts too deeply too quick.

Although I am comfortable using this knife you can still get blisters on your fingers if you try to cut out all the templates at once. There is a lot.

Pliers for snapping blade safely.

Minimum of 120 grit sand paper and block

Box of After Eights.

Thanks for lookin'

Hi Folks
Thanks for looking' in David card modelling is not as popular in this country as it is in Eastern European countries.
Some of those builds are pretty amazing.

LOWER HULL
Will build as instructions doing the lower hull 1st

False Deck
Enlarged the templates supplied by 200% onto card.
Made adjustments as to where the joining of my templates would be and cut them out.
Using carpet spray I stuck them onto 2mm cardboard.

Using a large ruler I drew a straight line onto my build board on which to align my cut outs.

I then marked positions for the frames and a straight line down the centre of the false deck on the opposite side of the blue card..
Reason.
I do not want to glue the keel and frames on top of the blue card.The bluecard will start to lift away from the cardboard as we plod along.
But mainly as the false deck may lie flat to start with and with the help of weights will remain flat for a while BUT it will start to lift at some point.

Some people glue the card to the board to help keep it flat but what happens if you use too much glue and damage the deck when the time comes to remove it.

Hence I will glue the blue side down and it won't matter if the blue card tears away.

Using the carpet spray I glued and aligned the false deck to the build board and weighted it down with some old flat ceramic tiles till dry.
With the build board being of a shiny veneer I am sure that the false deck will come away quite well
Thanks for lookin'
ps hope you can see pics as it is STILL a hit and a miss with me

Hi David
Some eye candy from Doris
https://modelshipworld.c...-by-doris-card-1749-140/

Hello again Folks
Got quite a lot done today thanks to the poor weather keeping me indoors

The below pics are off the lower keel coming together and joining up the seperate parts off the false deck and keel with scrap cardboard.
So it will be back to the chopping board for cutting out the frames

Hi Alan thanks for popping, in

Finished cutting out the 13 frames and not a red fingerprint anywhere

I think you are more likely to get a wee nick using a ruler than cutting freehand

The ruler I use when I need a straight edge has a trough along it to keep my fingers out of the way.

Also it is 4mm thick along the length on one side so there is minimal chance of your blade accidentaly sliding across the ruler, plus it also aides cutting straight down rather than at slight angle giving a bevelled edge.

Thanks for lookin' Tony

Made a start gluing the frames

I have been here before on previous attempts and found that after fitting all the frames to the keel it looked pretty good to me.
BUT: as there is quite a large gap between the frames it is advised to put some support between the frames to help prevent the "skin" from sagging and provide more surface area for the "skin" to stick too.

When I cut a piece out for the starboard side which fitted nice n neat between 2 frames it was too small or too big for the port side???

So I will be putting in supports as I plod along hopefully ensuring the space between frames is equal on both sides.

Way to go Budgie!
I'll be watching this one with great interest, I've got two Paper/Card kits waiting patiently (but not for some time yet!) One is the Monitor M15 in 1/100 scale and the other is probably similar in size to your ship, mine is the GPM kit of HMS Lion in 1/200 (both WW1) In my case I'm intending to use the kits as templates to reproduce them in Plasticard instead of card and with any repetitive bits like Lion's smaller hull mounted guns made as resin castings. Best of luck and I'll be looking for all the tips I can!

Robin

Very interestingly build. Count me as one of your followers.

Mark

Evening Folks
Finding this part of the build to be long and tedious.

Mind u a lot of time was spent waiting for the glue to reach the tip of the bottle

I eventually learnt to keep the bottle upside down when less than half full

Progress so far

You paper/card modelers are absolutely INSANE! I've tried my hand at them in the past, and I tend to just crush them. (I also tear the paper when I'm signing something, so there you go....)