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Hi All recently I purchased the DMC casting set [see Tool Suggestions] I got this to make some more deguasing cables for my Akagi build as there arnt enough provided to place the cables in there correct position at the rear of the hull. Ok first thing to make is the mould box,there are several ways to do this use cardboard covered in selotape,lego or wood strip as I have done as long as its the right size for the job.The base I used is from the Akagi packaging and has a shiny surface so should stop the mould silicone mix soaking in. After the mould box is made place the parts to be moulded in the box and mix up the required amount of silicone as recommended in the instructions and fill the mould box with the mix this then needs to be left for 24 hours to cure,when the mould is cured remove the parts from the mould and you will have a master mould to make as many of these parts as required hope this is of help regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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the mould box parts arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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the parts I want to mould arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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the mould box parts and the mould box ready for the silicone arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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the mould box filled with silicone this is currently cureing I will post more as I progress to the casting stage arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Looking good Andy, I am finding this very interesting and may look at doing something like it myself in the coming year. It will be interesting to see how easy you find it?? Thanks for posting the topic and I'll look forward to seeing what happens when the silicone has dried - good stuff Andy and well done!!
All the best,
Kev
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thanks for looking in Kev, I will say iv done some some moulding using Das before this so I am learning too doing it this way.The mixing can be done by weight or using the syringes to get the mixes right usally around 10:1. I think for larger pieces like an engine block the lego method would be a better idea, as once the mould has set the lego can be recycled into your next mould shape/size so its a better method regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 15/04/2010 Posts: 1,266 Points: 3,841 Location: The Quantock Hills,Somerset
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Hi Andy,fascinating stuff going on here.Is there any sort of chemical reaction giving off heat at all while the silicone dries or is it cold cure? Rob Nolli Illigitimi Carborundum!!!Current Builds: HMS Victory, SV Thermopylae
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Hi Rob The Silicon rubber provided is the GE G1 1000 condensation cure rubber so it cures using the moisture that in the air,heating has no effect on the curing prossess so theres no fumes or nasty smells to cope with. The casting resin Axson F38 gives off some heat during the casting prossess but as far as iv read so far no smells again I presume there may be a smell of the epoxy/car filler type but nothing nasty.Hope this helps regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/02/2012 Posts: 651 Points: 1,903 Location: croydon
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Hi Andy. Thanks for posting this up as will help scratch builders greatly. Once learnt how to do can open up a whole world of posabilities. Will be great to see the end result . Best regards Andy. Mark
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Thanks for looking in and the interest Mark as you say it can open up a host of posebilitys regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Hi All The mould has now cured and its turned out quite well I think,there was a little bleed under the parts so I found running a very sharp blade carefully round the edge of the part before removal made it possible to remove this.If you try to do this after the mould master is removed its not so easy as I found out but replacing the part and a bit of manipulation enabled me to get rid of the flash/bleed. The moulding material as it is now is quite streachy so im going to leave it in the moulding box and cast with it in situ if this fails I can try it without. A few more pics to follow on progress then later today I will try the casting in the mould and thanks all for the intrest shown makes things more worthwhile regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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the finished mould it looks a bit lumpy because I tried covering it and adding some weight but this hindered the curing and it didn't affect the casting side ah well u live and learn arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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the pictures here show the cast side of the mould,the 1st one show the bleed problem and the last after its been removed arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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this pic shows the mould after the masters have been removed if you look closely its reproduced the profile exactly arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Hi All Now we come to the moulding the resin is easy to mix at a ratio of 1:1 but they say in the instructions its a 1 hour cure but mine went off after about 5 mins max,good job I had filled the mould. The resin sets fast and creates a lot of heat but no noticeable smell so swift hands are a good idea when filling your moulds. After waiting for the resin to set I removed the pieces with some trepidation would they break or not,as it turned out they came away with a little bit of manipulation of the mould and they all came out fine apart from one which had 3 air bubbles present but there quite close together so I can use this piece for the smaller lengths.The results speak for themselves I think im quite pleased with the parts I made. My thoughts on the kit,the instructions are clear and comprehensive although it recommends going online to get information on mould boxes and maybe a little more of the silicone for moulding the moulds would be a bonus but over all its a good way to get into moulding your own parts and will be a boon to scratch builders.All comments a questions are welcome as usual and I hope this may help any builders out there to take the plunge in doing this regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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the filled mould arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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the parts after removal arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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here are some close ups of the moulded parts ,you can see the air bubbles on the lower piece,the last pic shows the 3 moulded parts with the master part as a comparison for shape consistency over all a good match arpurchase attached the following image(s): Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/08/2011 Posts: 480 Points: 1,421 Location: Galway
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Hi Andy, Very interesting stuff, Would this product be suitable to make more aircraft for the Akagi?
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