|
|
 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Hi Everyone,
Further to my 'D51 New Build' it has been suggested that I share some basics regarding the techniques/tools etc re soldering.
I have chosen to solder the brass parts instead of using epoxy adhesive. There is something quite satisfying about soldering plus I prefer it as a solid way of joining the brass components.
At present I am using either a 80W Weller soldering iron or a small butane gas torch. I use a liquid flux suitable for brass and white metal. At present I am using a 145C melt solder. Solders for model making such as model train kits are available in a range of temperatures.
I note some mention regarding the model acting a heat sink which is quite correct. Therefore at times the miniature gas torch helps. However it's used carefully. Items are fluxed (I use a small paint brush to apply the liquid), small pieces of solder wire are placed along the joint. Small pieces are often sufficient and make for clean results. The gas flame is gently wafted until the solder starts to melt. By capilliary action the melting solder runs into the joint. The flame is used gently, distortion should not happen if used in this way. Should solder go to far, out of the joint and become obvious then nail emery boards are very useful plus wet dry of course at various grades.
Various melt temperature solders allow a wide range to be used from low to high temperature melting point. This means lower melts can be used late in a build to avoid too much heat loosening previously soldered parts especially when the build becomes quite complex and contains a large number of component parts. At present I am unsure if this will apply with the D51.
Someone mentioned cleanliness. Yes the brass parts must be perfectly clean if they are to solder well. However whilst not wishing to generalise, up to now all the brass parts as packed have been ready to solder.
Happy to try answering questions.
regards
Dennis
|
|
|
 Rank: Elite      Groups: registriert, Registered Joined: 20/03/2011 Posts: 2,356 Points: 7,122 Location: UK
|
Well that was quick!! Great tip Dennis and will certainly help out those wishing to go down the very same route.. Spence
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Hi Spence,
Thank you.
regards
Dennis
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
As I continue to solder the D51 partworks something perhaps obvious that I should of mentioned is after soldering rinse the build in warm water. The liquid fluxes are quite corrosive and if left could affect the metal around the solder.
Also wash your hands regularly to remove any flux off them.
regards
Dennis
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Hi Everyone. Having received parts set 8 of the D51 partworks it presented an ideal opportunity to illustrate some of the methods of soldering since most parts were brass. The most basic form is a soldering iron that is heated with a gas flame. The iron has a copper head (come in different sizes) that holds the heat. However these are somewhat unmanageable for small builds and parts. Therefore the most common soldering iron is the electric one. These come in different wattage sizes. The higher the watts the more heat available. I am using an 80 watt iron which is generally sufficient. However as mentioned previously soldering small parts can become a problem when the main part becomes larger. This acts as a heat sink and can take heat away quicker than we can apply it. However other methods are available, posts will follow to illustrate. Firstly using the electric 80 watt iron (soldering guns can also be useful especially when access is limited). This image involves two handrail brackets being fixed in place. I have chosen to solder these in order to keep the inside of the smokebox clear (normally nuts are applied). The two areas around each handrail insert hole are cleaned up using 1500 wet n dry paper followed by degeasing. Liquid flux is applied using a small brush. The soldering iron is upto temperature and a small amount of solder has been applied to the heated tip. The area around the two handrail holes is tinned by using the soldering irons tip to apply a small amount of solder. The two handrail brackets are fitted into place (fluxed on rear face first). A piece of wire is used to align the two brackets. The iron tip is then applied to the brackets. The heat transfers, heating the bracket until the solder on the tinned surface melts and the brackets are soldered in place. This method works well however invariably extra tinning occurs which then needs cleaning up afterwards with a file etc. Dennis attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Following on from previous post. The next form of soldering which is far cleaner is to use a RESISTANCE SOLDERING UNIT. These units are used in the electronics undustry and are in common use in the construction of brass kits. The unit consists of a train transformer type unit to which is attached a cable that has two hand operated clamps. These are used to hold small parts as the heat is applied through them. The unit I use has pedal operation allowing the hands to stay free. The amount of heat can be varied via a knob/scale on the unit. In order to demonstrate I have attached the two handrail brackets on the other side of the smokebox. This time the rear face of the two brackets was also fluxed and then tinned using the 80watt iron. Again the two brackets were put in place and aligned using a length of wire through the holes. The clamps from the resitance soldering unit were in turn clamped around each handrail bracket. The pedal was operated to apply the heat for around 10 seconds.This melted the tinning and formed the joint. This type of soldering eliminates the heat sink problems previously mentioned. The heat is applied through the small part first and it is quickly and cleanly soldered in place. Dennis attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Finally the use of a miniature gas torch. The parts set 08 has some large parts. Namely the two boiler halves. Normally these are simply screwed together using the boiler joints. These present an ideal opportunity to solder. The screw holes will of course require also filling with solder as well. The pictures show the boiler joint screwed in place. The screws are removed once soldered. The inner joint is being soldered first. The flux is applied (always ensure the metal pieces to be joined are clean and degreased). A small piece of solder is cut and placed close to the joint. A small flame is applied carefully. This should be introduced slowly until the solder melts and runs into the joint. Try and keep the flux confined to the area requiring soldering. The solder ideally runs into the joint by capilliary action. Dennis attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
 Hi Dennis some nice tips there regards Andy  Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Hi Andy,
Thank you. So much soldering on the latest parts that it was an ideal time to add
the images and information.
Regards
Dennis
|
|
|
 Rank: Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/03/2011 Posts: 1,344 Points: 4,079 Location: Bryanston, Johannesburg. RSA
|
Excellent tutorial, will be added to my "How To" file. Thank you most kindly. Rgds, Hans
"It's okay to make mistakes. mistakes are our teachers - they help us to to learn, even if it is painfully"
Current Build:
Endeavour Cross section,D51
Completed: HMS Victory
Under the bench: Endeavour x 2,Sovereign of the Seas, Akagi and The Black Pearl!HMS Victory Cross Section
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Hi Hans,
Thank you.
I enjoy soldering and the the D51 partworks is ideal.
regards
Dennis
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
D51 Partworks The latest set of parts 33 - 36 provides more excellent examples of soldering. Firstly I will cover the fitting of the brass fusible plugs into the left and right firebox halves. The images that follow show: applying the flux solution by brush around the inside of the pre punched holes for the fusible plugs. The next image shows the plugs in place. This is followed by placing small sections of solder wire around each hole. Then using a small gas flame (as previously used), each is carefully heated. It is best to concentrate the flame mainly on the plug itself since this is somewhat slower to heat up than the thin brass used for the firebox sides. As you will see the solder melts and runs around each plug and by capillary action runs into the joint. Finally the final image shows the outside to demonstrate no distortion and in fact very little heat colouration. Dennis attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
D51 parts 33 - 36 Following on from previous posting I have now soldered the left and right firebox halves together. These are joined using the supplied brass joining strip. Stainless steel screws are used to hold the assembly together. The stainless screws will not become soldered in the process unlike steel or brass screws. Therefore once soldered the screws can be removed and the holes etc soldered up. After the 1st attempt I felt additional solder wire pieces needed to be added and the heating repeated The stages are similar to the fitting of the fusible plugs so the images should tell the story. regards Dennis Dennis attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
 Rank: Newbie Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/01/2014 Posts: 1 Points: 3 Location: Bomaderry
|
I found that liquid flux can be stored in the wifes old fingernail polish bottles.
It has a fine brush built into the screwtop lid.
To help stop the bottle from being accidently knocked over you glue a large steel washer onto the bottom. This give a large surface area to keep the bottle upright.
Regards
Andrew
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Hi Andrew,
Thank you. Great ideas especially the washer. I use quite large bottles but knocking over is still a risk. The built in brush would be a welcome addition however I do find if the brush is not rinsed out under the tap the hairs do at some stage start to fall out!
If the brush has nylon hairs then it will not be affected.
cheers
Dennis
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
D51 parts 10 (37 - 40) In my D51 build diary right at the start Tomick mentioned that some parts were Zamac rather than brass and that it could be soldered but a strong flux would be required. At that time I had soldered Brass, Copper, Nickel Silver, Pewter, White metal and Stainless Steel but never alloy. The latest set of parts included the sand dome. This was made from alloy with a brass finish. Not being keen to glue this I decided to try some CARRs BROWN flux that I have for soldering stainless steel. The alloy was cleaned with a file, the flux applied and hey presto it could be tinned with my usual 145 deg solder. A reaction was noted if the flux was left for too long before soldering. The other parts were soldered using techniques already covered in this forum Know How. The sand pipes were fitted into the valves after first tapering the end of the wire and tinning with a 80w soldering iron. Once the pipes were positioned the resistance soldering unit was used. As the tinned end heated up it was almost sucked into the valve opening. Standard flux was first applied over wire end and valve opening. The sand pipes were soldered on to the boiler sides. This involved placing small (1mm/2mm) pieces of solder wire into the well between the sand pipe and the boiler sides. Flux was applied and using a miniature butane burned the area was slowly heated. The solder ran perfectly into the gap between the pipe and boiler sides. This technique was continued along the length of the sand pipe. In turn all 6 pipes were fitted in this way. Other parts such as the steps were soldered in place using similar techniques. Dennis attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
|
|
Enjoying your build it is looking great and enjoying watching your soldering process, nicely done
Jase“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
Hi Jase,
Thank you. It certainly adds something to the overall build process. I look forward to the brass parts in particular.
The miniature butane burner is a simple but excellent tool for soldering.
Regards
Dennis
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
|
WARNING!
In the last posting I have just started to solder the D51 alloy parts. These are ZAMAC castings. Zamac melts at around 380C. Therefore be careful not to get the part too hot when soldering with the miniature butane torch. The solder melting point is well below the Zamac melt temperature so no problems should occur. Just a warning!
regards
Dennis
|
|
|
 Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/11/2009 Posts: 3,432 Points: 10,280 Location: Bâe Colwyn, Wales
|
Hi all,
I have started soldering the parts on HMS Hood and found solder paint to be very good. It works amazingly well. Paint it on the part, hold in place then heat it with a torch. It has very low melting point and is premixed with Flux.
Chris On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
|
|
|
|
Guest
|
US
