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My build another sequel Options
Yutaro HONMA
#221 Posted : 15 June 2012 15:02:04

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Hi Andy!
I can also understand your frustration. We sometimes had the experiences of DeAGOSTINI Japan's mistakes.Cool
Best Regards,
Yutaro
DeAGOSTINI 1/250 the YAMATO, 1/250 the AKAGI.
Hasegawa Co. 1/350 Battle ship NGATO, 1/350 Aircraft carrier Akagi, Battle ship MIKASA.
Water line series 1/700 Battle ship YAMATO, HIEI, YAMASHIRO, Aircraft carrier HIRYU,TAIHO, Heavy Cruiser Myoukou, Ashigara, Nachi, Haguro & others.
arpurchase
#222 Posted : 15 June 2012 22:26:47

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BigGrin Thanks Yaturo for the kind words,now to post another item iv been searching high and low for as an enhancment detail for the Yamato and Akagi screws area.Basicly its shaped/formed brass called 'streamline' but having been told this is no longer available iv had to drop into every model shop i see on my travels around the country doing my job to find it.Whats it for you may ask well its to cover the aliminium struts from the screw to the hull this will give all 4 struts on each hull a uniform look,yes i could have used filler and sanded back but its hard to replicate each strut exactly the same ,hence my hunt for this item,as ussual all comments and questions are welcome
regards
AndyCool
arpurchase attached the following image(s):
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Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

arpurchase
#223 Posted : 16 June 2012 12:35:24

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BigGrin Hi All
filed all the burrs off the funnel base and added the search light bases from the etch ,next its the make up and fitting of the bilge keels which for some strange reason are called rolling chocksConfused in the build instructions.As ussual all comments and questions are welcome
regards
AndyCool
arpurchase attached the following image(s):
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Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

Tomick
#224 Posted : 16 June 2012 14:14:05

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'Rolling chocks' is likely nearest Japanese translation where the writer of the text does not appear to know what the english term is.

The added PE detail looks great and will add so much more to your model Cool
Yutaro HONMA
#225 Posted : 16 June 2012 14:14:48

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Hi Andy!BigGrin
You have done fine jobs of metal processing that is very difficult for me.Woot Woot
I am looking forward to see your enhancements of building the Akagi and the Yamato and waiting for the pics from you.Cool
By the way we call "bilge keel" as "ビルジキール"or"ローリングチョッパー" in Japanese. These words directory mean English pronunciations. We also use "減揺装置". This ward means every anti-rolling devices of the ships.

"減" means "decrease"
"揺" means "rolling"
"装置" means "device"

"ビルジキール" is one of the "減揺装置"s.

Best Regards,
Yutaro
DeAGOSTINI 1/250 the YAMATO, 1/250 the AKAGI.
Hasegawa Co. 1/350 Battle ship NGATO, 1/350 Aircraft carrier Akagi, Battle ship MIKASA.
Water line series 1/700 Battle ship YAMATO, HIEI, YAMASHIRO, Aircraft carrier HIRYU,TAIHO, Heavy Cruiser Myoukou, Ashigara, Nachi, Haguro & others.
arpurchase
#226 Posted : 17 June 2012 09:01:50

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BigGrin Thanks to both Mr T and Yaturo for excelently promt reply, as ussual in a lot of things it seems words get confused in translations.Also thanks to yaturo on my metal bashing i just try to do my bestBlushing
regards
AndyCool

PS
Yaturo-san if you would like me to post a more detailed explanation of how i fitted the deguasing strip and my enhancments please indicate if this would be helpfull.
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

arpurchase
#227 Posted : 17 June 2012 12:18:38

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BigGrin Hi All
Here's how i fitted the bilge keels as i found the download instructions a little confusing to follow.Get the laminating/shapeing of the keels done as per the instructions then i did as follows,firstly if you look at the side view plans provided and measure from the bottom, the bilge keel ends are 9mm from the base to the point/end of each keel.I then used the part of the deck where it 1st slopes up as a referance point and used tape on the plan to mark out the correct references, then i transfered this to the hull'note i didnt follow the hull curvature when i fixed the tape down but streched it flat'after the 1st 9mm referance point is marked remove the tape and fix the keel at the bow end with tape.I the placed the hull on a table and useing the stern end point of the keel measured 9mm up to get the second referance point
After you have your two points marked tempararily fix with tape and mark the places for the pins then drill and fix in position on the hull.This was done on the other side aswell,the parts have been sanding sealed and are now ready for painting il post painted pics when its done,as ussual all comments and questions are welcome
regards
AndyCool
arpurchase attached the following image(s):
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Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

arpurchase
#228 Posted : 23 June 2012 18:27:07

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BigGrin Hi All
some more done on the Yamato namely the eghaust/scupper pipes on the hull,the lead type strip used in this months bag of goodies was missing so i reordered.But then i started thinking that from what i have got in reference material the pipes are actually semi-circular in shape and not flat,so a quick trip to the suppliers got me some 2mill diameter styrene tube this was cut in half and used on the hull.
I used the masking tape method to get the correct positions on the hull,i include a pic of the tape with a set square to show its at right angles.Then it was a simple draw round the cuts and remove the tape,after cut the tube to the correct length and cut in half and fix to the hull
Just one side done so far will do the otherside tomorow,as ussual all questions and comments are welcome
regards
AndyCool
arpurchase attached the following image(s):
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Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

Yutaro HONMA
#229 Posted : 23 June 2012 18:45:15

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Hi Andy!
When I built the Yamato, I used original parts of the exhaust on the hull. Blushing They were not tubes but just plates. So I can understand you now. This time, I made tubes for the Akagi and attached them on her hull.BigGrin
Best Regards,
Yutaro
Yutaro HONMA attached the following image(s):
pic1.jpg
pic2.jpg
DeAGOSTINI 1/250 the YAMATO, 1/250 the AKAGI.
Hasegawa Co. 1/350 Battle ship NGATO, 1/350 Aircraft carrier Akagi, Battle ship MIKASA.
Water line series 1/700 Battle ship YAMATO, HIEI, YAMASHIRO, Aircraft carrier HIRYU,TAIHO, Heavy Cruiser Myoukou, Ashigara, Nachi, Haguro & others.
arpurchase
#230 Posted : 23 June 2012 19:02:56

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BigGrin Thank You Yaturo for your reply
i too will do the same on the Akagi but i notice from your pictures that yours are more square than round, i think this is because you have several models of the Akagi to compare and use as referances.The more i do on the Akagi i feel i need some correct referance/plans to help me get things right after you pointed out some of the pitfalls in the build
regards
AndyCool
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

arpurchase
#231 Posted : 24 June 2012 12:22:17

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BigGrin Hi All
Scuppers are now fitted to both sides of the hull,apart from the two hanging scuppers which will be fitted later.As ussual all questions and comments are welcome
regards
AndyCool
arpurchase attached the following image(s):
P6240642.JPG
P6240643.JPG
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

MWG
#232 Posted : 24 June 2012 13:18:53

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Hi Andy, very ingenuous enhancementsBigGrin Top jobBigGrin Regards Mike
MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.

arpurchase
#233 Posted : 24 June 2012 13:48:53

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BigGrin Hi Mike thanks for the kind wordsCool
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

Yutaro HONMA
#234 Posted : 24 June 2012 16:54:03

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Hi Andy!
You have done great jobs. These parts are lined very exactly!Love

Since DeAGOSTINI Japan did not provide the exhaust parts on the port side of the Akagi, I had to make them by my self. I just referred to 1/350 Akagi model of HASEGAWA Co.

By the way, a renewed Yamato model seems to adapt the same cable (around the hull ) parts as the ones of the Akagi model. As I said that I will exchange old brass rods on my Yamato model for some new material parts. I have decided to use the cable parts of the Akagi.

I think they are not bad. I expect they are easy to use for the model that is already completed. Since it takes several days work for me to complete it, I will do it during this summer vacation. And I have already bought them from DeAGOSTINI Japan.

Best Regards,
Yutaro
DeAGOSTINI 1/250 the YAMATO, 1/250 the AKAGI.
Hasegawa Co. 1/350 Battle ship NGATO, 1/350 Aircraft carrier Akagi, Battle ship MIKASA.
Water line series 1/700 Battle ship YAMATO, HIEI, YAMASHIRO, Aircraft carrier HIRYU,TAIHO, Heavy Cruiser Myoukou, Ashigara, Nachi, Haguro & others.
arpurchase
#235 Posted : 24 June 2012 18:36:41

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BigGrin Hi Yaturo
thank you for your kind words, i find the masking tape method [an idea i got off jinxs8 build of the Yamato] of transfering markings is pretty accurate and a bit easyer to do than using the full size plan method in the instructions.
Also i am glad you have decided how you will improve your own Yamato model in the cable area's,i got the idea for my enhancment off Mr T's official build and asked about the size he used which was 1mm by 0.5 mm,i provide a picture of the type i used[10 per pack].Also you might like to look at Jinks8 build diary of the Yamato he actually filed the round wire square on his model, he also radio controled his model
regards
AndyCool
arpurchase attached the following image(s):
P6240647.JPG
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

arpurchase
#236 Posted : 03 July 2012 17:37:27

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BigGrin Hi All just a couple of pics of the scuppers with the 1st coat of grey on em looking a treat if i say so my self
regards
AndyCool
arpurchase attached the following image(s):
P7030674.JPG
P7030675.JPG
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

harty
#237 Posted : 03 July 2012 22:04:02

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Loooking very sleek AndyLove
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#238 Posted : 03 July 2012 22:05:41

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BigGrin Thank you HartyCool
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

arpurchase
#239 Posted : 14 July 2012 16:12:39

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Angry Hi All
pack 14 arrived today butCursing the two templates to fit the screws are missing ,so its off to c/s againCrying but i can at least do the funnel as supplied with this issue.In the past i have had some nice comments from others on the forum about my metal bashing so i might do a short indepth item on how i prepare the funnel from start to the paint stage
regards
AndyCool
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

arpurchase
#240 Posted : 14 July 2012 16:49:00

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BigGrin Hi All
As promised heres how i did the funnel[others of course will have there own methods but this is aimed at the newer less experienced modelers on the forum].
When you inspect the funnel castings you will notice there are no locating lugs to help with lining the two sides up and that the ussual burrs are apparent on the sides.i didnt remove the burrs as recomended but glue the two halves together 1st,to aid lining up the two parts i used the searchlight deck provided last month.To do this i dry fitted the two halves resting on the deck and after lining everything up ran super glue across the top of the funnel and the front join at the base[the half moon part]after the glue has set lift it up and run glue down the inside joints,leave to set.
Now comes the filing/preparation,a good set of ordinary files and a set of riffler files would be of advantage here,remove the burrs using files to suit the areas and smooth off the joints after.The reason i didnt remove the burrs before glueing the parts together now becomes apparent as its easy to remove to much metal from each side if your not carefull,doing it after glueing gives you a profile to follow so less filler if any is needed.After filing back to your satisfaction use your favorite filler along the joints and leave to dry.After the filler has dryed off file off the excess and use a fine grade sand paper[800 grit for instance]to polish up the joint.
Inspection of the joint after doing all the above should render it almost invisible or just decernable, use sandpaper over the rest of the funnel to get a key for the paint,spray putty/filler can be used here to get a smooth overall finish then undercoat and top coats can be added.Hope this helps with your metal bashing/parts preparation and as ussual all comments and questions are welcome
regards
AndyCool

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Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

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