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Gandale wrote:jase wrote:Nice to see the planking underway. how do you intend to recreate the steel plates that the jul was actuly made of?
Jase Thanks Jase and you really know how to ask relevant questions.  .... The hull is double skinned plus there are layers of ply etch showing all the hatches and portholes and am thinking of how to modify the ply to show the plating.... Will probably be purchasing additional ply, as thin as I can find it and see what I can do from there... Not to keen on using plasticard or metal tape.. still I have time on my hands to think about this one... any ideas would be welcome..... Regards Alan For me the hull finish is going to be key to an authentic looking model. The problem is you need to replicate lots of rivet detail too. If it was me I would be tempted to go down the plastic card rout which then gives you some rivet options. you don't need to cut every plate you can do them in strips with scribed joint lines.
you might find this site interesting on riveting, you will need to emulate dome head rivets.
http://www.largescalepla...veting_1/riveting_1.php
Jase“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Hi Alan, I think rivets would look great on this but they will be very small at this scale. A 38mm diameter rivet would scale down to about 0.2mm, you wont be able to create individual rivets at that scale. A pounce wheel used very lightly can produce very small dots on the reverse of some 0.25 tin or brass sheet (I have tried it) but its hard to keep the pressure even so the rivets are the same. Steve
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Registered, Official Builds Joined: 10/02/2012 Posts: 475 Points: 1,237
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It would cost a small fortune (in addition) but there are these; http://www.archertransfe...SurfaceDetailsMain.html
I have used these, and they are great. I'm not sure what size you might need, but there are one or 2 choices.  Tired, Old, and Cranky!
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"Your 14 inch SOTS against her,,, maybe it could be used as a figurehead" E'er, ruddy cheek!  Love it, love it, love it! Best comment ever! Keep them coming Alan! Robin First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
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jase wrote:Gandale wrote:jase wrote:Nice to see the planking underway. how do you intend to recreate the steel plates that the jul was actuly made of?
Jase Thanks Jase and you really know how to ask relevant questions. .... The hull is double skinned plus there are layers of ply etch showing all the hatches and portholes and am thinking of how to modify the ply to show the plating.... Will probably be purchasing additional ply, as thin as I can find it and see what I can do from there... Not to keen on using plasticard or metal tape.. still I have time on my hands to think about this one... any ideas would be welcome..... Regards Alan For me the hull finish is going to be key to an authentic looking model. The problem is you need to replicate lots of rivet detail too. If it was me I would be tempted to go down the plastic card rout which then gives you some rivet options. you don't need to cut every plate you can do them in strips with scribed joint lines.
you might find this site interesting on riveting, you will need to emulate dome head rivets.
http://www.largescalepla...veting_1/riveting_1.php
Jase Thanks for those comments and link... gives me some options to consider... I agree, the plating is an important feature of the hull but am just not sure whether you really would be able to see the rivets at this scale... One thing I wouldn't want to see is the rivets being too out of scale..... Lots of pondering to do..... Thanks again Jase..... Regards Alan
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stevie_o wrote:Hi Alan,
I think rivets would look great on this but they will be very small at this scale. A 38mm diameter rivet would scale down to about 0.2mm, you wont be able to create individual rivets at that scale.
A pounce wheel used very lightly can produce very small dots on the reverse of some 0.25 tin or brass sheet (I have tried it) but its hard to keep the pressure even so the rivets are the same.
Steve
Thanks for those comments Stevie, appreciate your input.... Have been given one or two options that look quite promising so will see what I can come up with.... Some test pieces need to be done here I think.... Thanks again Regards Alan
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Thanks Mark, this really does look promising so am now on the hunt to see if there is a supplier here in the UK.... If not I just may be tempted to purchase a couple of test pieces from the states..... Appreciate the link... Regards Alan
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Plymouth57 wrote:"Your 14 inch SOTS against her,,, maybe it could be used as a figurehead" E'er, ruddy cheek! Love it, love it, love it! Best comment ever! Keep them coming Alan! Robin .. Thanks Robin, happy it made you smile..... Regards Alan
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Hi all, so made a start now at sorting out the profile of the stern... New balsa blocks were applied and roughly shaped as a starting point.... Hopefully now everything I was saying on earlier posts relating to the stern profile will be a lot clearer.... The first photo shows how the instructions produce a rounded stern both from port to starboard and deck to keel....  .. Next photo's shows how the first two facets should look. To get this look meant applying individual shaped planks running up and down rather than the standard way of bow to stern... Everything is still just rough at the moment, sanding, filling and the application of the second plank layer will I think give me the correct profile I'm after.... Tomorrow hopefully will continue the short planking round the other side..... Long way to go yet before I'll be happy with it..... Regards Alan Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Hi Alan Its certainly a different way of building up the stern , best of luck with it regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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arpurchase wrote: Hi Alan Its certainly a different way of building up the stern , best of luck with it regards Andy Thanks for looking in and commenting Andy..... As they say, there is more than one way to skin a cat.... .. Am confident this will give me the profile I'm after and I think this way makes life a lot easier in helping me achieve it.... Thanks again Regards Alan
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Rank: Super-Elite   Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/08/2010 Posts: 2,771 Points: 8,344 Location: Brighton
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Hi Alan. Definetly looks more the shape that it should be. Hope it works out OK. Will be watching your progress with great interest Ian. Current builds.Hachettes build the bismark,HMS Victory, HMS Hood.
Finished Builds Corel HMS Victory cross section.
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Hi Alan, Profile does look improved at this point. Your solution now is built higher than the ribs I notice, I hope that isn't going to cause you a problem further down the line when plating the hull. watching with much interest.
Jase“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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ian smith wrote:Hi Alan.
Definetly looks more the shape that it should be. Hope it works out OK. Will be watching your progress with great interest Ian. Thanks Ian, appreciate your comments..... I'm sure it will work out in the end, will just persevere until it does.... .. Back on the SOTS right now but hopefully back on this build this weekend.... Thanks again Regards Alan
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jase wrote:Hi Alan, Profile does look improved at this point. Your solution now is built higher than the ribs I notice, I hope that isn't going to cause you a problem further down the line when plating the hull. watching with much interest.
Jase Thanks Jase, am pleased you think it's an improved profile and yes,it is built higher than the ribs just now, has to be to achieve what I'm looking for.... .. I am also aware it is likely to create some problems further down the line when plating and will just have to find solutions for that too... Basically I had two choices, build as instructed and end up wishing I had done something about it every time I looked at the model or, grasp the nettle with both hands and have a go at trying to put it right..... .. Will just keep at it and I'm sure I'll get there in the end..... It's a journey after all.... Thanks again Regards Alan
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Small update, planking has now started in earnest, have also added the top plank but first applied masking tape to the deck edge to ensure I didn't accidentally glue the planks and deck edges together...  ... More soon..... Regards Alan Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Fantastic Alan Love this build and with the hull shape it looks a joy to plank, not sure about how difficult the stern is going to be though. Fab job, Steve
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 01/09/2012 Posts: 111 Points: 306 Location: Nottinghamshire
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Hello Alan,
Superb work, having someone else building the Titanic is really useful. I am wondering if the dip I am trying to build out of mine should actually be present as it looks like yours does the same thing.
My rudder area is also nothing like yours, or pictures of the real Titanic, so I am thinking that scale wise this model is a lot more accurate.
Dave
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stevie_o wrote:Fantastic Alan Love this build and with the hull shape it looks a joy to plank, not sure about how difficult the stern is going to be though. Fab job, Steve Thanks Steve, appreciate your kind comments.... So far planking hasn't really been a problem so yes, she is a joy... The stern has already had to be remodelled and am happy with how it is so far... Still more remodelling of the stern to be done yet though.... Regards Alan
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DJS wrote:Hello Alan,
Superb work, having someone else building the Titanic is really useful. I am wondering if the dip I am trying to build out of mine should actually be present as it looks like yours does the same thing.
My rudder area is also nothing like yours, or pictures of the real Titanic, so I am thinking that scale wise this model is a lot more accurate.
Dave Thanks Dave, thanks for looking in and commenting... The dip you see in the deck area is supposed to be there so I wouldn't be tempted to remove it or level it off.... The stern section on this kit is nothing like actual ship and I've had to spend a fair amount of time looking into reshaping the whole back end.... more to be done yet... Titanic is a ship my wife loves, she has watched and read everything she could find on this icon and it was her idea to get the family together and get this for me.... At this scale there is masses of extras that can be added to her hence the reason I am really enjoying this build.... Will also be nice to bounce ideas of each other.... Thanks again.. Regards Alan
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