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George1 wrote:Hi Alan.  It's always a pleasure looking in on your build and seeing what is yet to come for us Newbies. If we can get anywhere near your quality we will be doing exceptionally well.  Great too to pick up your tips as you progress. It will certainly help us avoid the pitfalls. Regards George Thanks for the kind comments George and I'm so pleased you enjoy looking in on my build..... Feel very sure if you take your time, study other builds to get ideas then your build will be just as pleasing to you.... .. Thanks again... Regards Alan
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Tonight brought to a conclusion the work on issue 93 with the exception of a cannon..... .. This issue was simply the painting and fitting of 10 more ornamental pieces, 5 for either side gallery. Painting was as before, remove any burrs, coat of grey primer and two coats of metallic gold... A little piece of fiddly painting on one piece and that I think turned out quite well.... All pieces fitted in place and when dry received a coat of klear Kote gloss.... .. Next week looks as if we get back to some building work in the preparation and fitting of the chainwales....It will be nice to get back to working with wood again.... .. Leaves me with a few nights where I can do some work on the 2nd plank layer on the Titanic..... Happy building all.... Regards Alan Gandale attached the following image(s):
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Looking good Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Looking good Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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arpurchase wrote: Looking good Thanks Andy,,, Regards Alan
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 Rank: Vice-Master    Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Hi Alan. Looking fantastic as I expected on looking in. Would you mind if I ask you a question? What glue are you using to stick on the ornaments? I presume something like superglue gel? A tip here for the future will be handy. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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 Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 374 Points: 1,134 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Hi Alan Can I pick your brain again? I'm fitting the second deck and I'm not sure about the stern deck sections - item 42. As you know, this part of the deck slopes gently up (about5mm) towards the stern between rib 21 and 26. However the deck support on rib 22 is at the same level as rib 21 so there is a gap of about 2.5mm at rib 22 between the deck and deck beam as the deck rises to sit on rib 26 beam. Can this gap be ignored or should I weigh down the deck to meet the beam at rib 22? This would make the deck CURVE up to meet rib 26.  Your advice would be greatly appreciated. Kind regards JohnP
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George1 wrote:Hi Alan. Looking fantastic as I expected on looking in. Would you mind if I ask you a question? What glue are you using to stick on the ornaments? I presume something like superglue gel? A tip here for the future will be handy. Regards George Thanks for the kind comments George, appreciated. .. For the smaller pieces I am using superglue gel but for the larger heavier pieces I turned to using epoxy. Epoxy with a 30 min setting time is my preference as it allows for some wiggle room to ensure pieces are set in the correct position.... Hope this helps. Regards Alan
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John Passmore wrote:Hi Alan Can I pick your brain again? I'm fitting the second deck and I'm not sure about the stern deck sections - item 42. As you know, this part of the deck slopes gently up (about5mm) towards the stern between rib 21 and 26. However the deck support on rib 22 is at the same level as rib 21 so there is a gap of about 2.5mm at rib 22 between the deck and deck beam as the deck rises to sit on rib 26 beam. Can this gap be ignored or should I weigh down the deck to meet the beam at rib 22? This would make the deck CURVE up to meet rib 26. Your advice would be greatly appreciated. Kind regards JohnP Hi John and thank you for your query. Will try to explain exactly what I did here and would refer you to page 12 & 13 of my build diary. Firstly, I thought the same as you about ignoring the gap at rib 22 but had a suspicion this deck just may be visible through the gunports if I did so I decided to ensure the deck was curved and glued into position. I suspended the deck pieces between two blocks of wood and weighed down the centre of the deck piece with heavy enough objects to cause it to curve. A little bit of steam from a hand held steam cleaner held underneath the piece also helped to speed up the process. Steam cleaner is not necessary, it will just take a little longer to achieve a nice curve, perhaps leaving it overnight. Just have to be careful not to put too much of a curve on the piece though. Once done I chamfered the edge of the deck support at rib 26 to ensure I had a good fit between the support and the deck, glued everything down using alphatic glue and as you can see on the diary I used small bulldog clips to hold in position plus some weights in the centre... This is where the additional deck supports underneath came in handy, no chance of snapping anything underneath..... Hope this helps you and if you need any further help then I will be here... Best regards Alan
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Gandale wrote:George1 wrote:Hi Alan. Looking fantastic as I expected on looking in. Would you mind if I ask you a question? What glue are you using to stick on the ornaments? I presume something like superglue gel? A tip here for the future will be handy. Regards George Thanks for the kind comments George, appreciated. .. For the smaller pieces I am using superglue gel but for the larger heavier pieces I turned to using epoxy. Epoxy with a 30 min setting time is my preference as it allows for some wiggle room to ensure pieces are set in the correct position.... Hope this helps. Regards Alan Hi Alan. Thanks for that. It is greatly appreciated. Nothing like being ready with the right gear when the time comes. Re deck planking (some time back query to you) it turns out Float A Boat in Aus does do planking and has sent me a comprehensive list. Didn't see the name you mentioned but does have basswood/lime and a few others in 4mm wide. Mahogany and so on. Thanks again. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 374 Points: 1,134 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Hello Alan Thanks for your advice (post 2656) re stern deck 2 pieces. I don't have a steam cleaner but I've got lots of heavy brick pavers! So now I've got the 2 pieces suspended as you described and with a brick balanced on a piece of 10mm dowel as the force point. There seems to be just enough bend in the pieces so that I shall now leave overnight to cook - so to speak . I'll let you know how it goes Once again - thanks for your help. Regards JohnP
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John Passmore wrote:Hello Alan Thanks for your advice (post 2656) re stern deck 2 pieces. I don't have a steam cleaner but I've got lots of heavy brick pavers! So now I've got the 2 pieces suspended as you described and with a brick balanced on a piece of 10mm dowel as the force point. There seems to be just enough bend in the pieces so that I shall now leave overnight to cook - so to speak . I'll let you know how it goes Once again - thanks for your help. Regards JohnP No problem John, just keep checking it as you don't want the bend to be overdone or that there are no cracks or splits appearing, just enough to make it easier to fit the pieces in place as once glued and clamped they should be fine..... Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 374 Points: 1,134 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Gandale wrote:John Passmore wrote:Hello Alan Thanks for your advice (post 2656) re stern deck 2 pieces. I don't have a steam cleaner but I've got lots of heavy brick pavers! So now I've got the 2 pieces suspended as you described and with a brick balanced on a piece of 10mm dowel as the force point. There seems to be just enough bend in the pieces so that I shall now leave overnight to cook - so to speak . I'll let you know how it goes Once again - thanks for your help. Regards JohnP No problem John, just keep checking it as you don't want the bend to be overdone or that there are no cracks or splits appearing, just enough to make it easier to fit the pieces in place as once glued and clamped they should be fine..... Regards Alan Hello Alan Checked the 2 pcs this morning and they are both still flat as a pancake - even with a 3-1/2kg brick pushing them down!  No worries, I came up with another solution. I have some offcuts left over from the beams in issue 12 and one was exactly the right length and thickness to form a packer on the beam at rib 22. I have fitted and glued the 2 pieces of decking now with 100% bearing on the deck beams - which makes me a happy chappie. One of the great benefits of this model making caper is it makes you think and keeps the cobwebs out of the old brain box. Working with wood is very novel for me but I'm enjoying it immensely. Once again, I appreciate your input and time. Kind regards JohnP
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 Rank: Beginner Level 3 Groups: Registered
Joined: 05/04/2013 Posts: 26 Points: 78 Location: South Africa
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Thanks a lot for an amazing build log. The amount of detail and diligence you put into your build is truly inspiring. It is a great read for a beginner such as myself and is both educational and interesting.
I must say, well done and thanks a lot for all the explanations.
Regards
Hendrik
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Lovely work there Alan looking good Rgd Martyn Building ?
Completed. Soliei Royal . Sovereign of the Seas . Virginia . Scotland . San Felipe . Corel vasa , Santisima Trinadad X section , Vasa
Next Build ?
When sailors have good wine, They think themselves in heaven for the time. John Baltharpe
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Sandman wrote:Thanks a lot for an amazing build log. The amount of detail and diligence you put into your build is truly inspiring. It is a great read for a beginner such as myself and is both educational and interesting.
I must say, well done and thanks a lot for all the explanations.
Regards
Hendrik Hi Hendrik and thank you so much for your very kind words, it is very much appreciated.... .. It pleases me no end to know you find my build so enjoyable. If my diary helps other builders coming along behind me a help to them then I know it has all been worthwhile.... Thanks again and regards Alan
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Martyn Ingram wrote: Lovely work there Alan looking good Rgd Martyn Thanks again for looking in and commenting Martyn, appreciated... Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 374 Points: 1,134 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Hi Alan I've just been looking at your deck planking trial on pages 16 and 17 and it looks terrific, so I'd like to try that method myself. One query I have is what is the thickness of the planks? I see you cut the black paper/card at 4mm wide, so if it is used on it's edge between the planks it seems that's quite a lot to sand away (depending on the plank thickness) Sorry to bother you with something you did so long ago and hope you can advise. Can you tell me how to do the treenailing as well? Do you drill holes first and then put the filler in? Regards JohnP
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John Passmore wrote:Hi Alan I've just been looking at your deck planking trial on pages 16 and 17 and it looks terrific, so I'd like to try that method myself. One query I have is what is the thickness of the planks? I see you cut the black paper/card at 4mm wide, so if it is used on it's edge between the planks it seems that's quite a lot to sand away (depending on the plank thickness) Sorry to bother you with something you did so long ago and hope you can advise. Can you tell me how to do the treenailing as well? Do you drill holes first and then put the filler in? Regards JohnP Hi John, you are not bothering me at all, in fact I am only too pleased to assist you whenever you feel you need it.... The planks I used for the decking was Tanganyka 1mm thick by 4mm wide and on reflection I think I would have preferred to go down to 0.5mm thick. The black card I used was not cut to 4mm strips but to 0.4mm strips which meant there was very little if no trimming at all to do. Treenailing was achieved by drilling 0.5mm holes first then inserting 0.5mm fishing line, this was a little awkward to insert so went down to using 0.4mm, held in place with a little PVA and trimmed down when dry.... .. Hope this answers your question and you will see there are further posts within my diary on the deck planking, these you may also find useful... Index should take you to the right places.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 374 Points: 1,134 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Hello Alan
Thanks for the info re the deck planking. It's very informative and means I can start shopping around looking for materials, which in some cases are hard to get in Oz. (I'm even having trouble sourcing burnishing/blackening fluid!)
Kind regards
JohnP
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