The stern area was fairly straight forward as well. Didn't really encounter any issues until the lowest strake. Once I got to that area I found that the rear framing was not quite lined up so I needed to fair things just a bit. I will have to go back and touch up those areas of the framing where I did that with some stain. However, that was really expected at some point. I am quite impressed with how well planking has gone on this build overall considering there was no point where I faired the hull as is done on standard builds. Instead, I just trusted that the templates provided for shaping the ribs and framing were accurate and aside from a spot here and there it turns out they were almost spot on.

To create the openings for the gallery windows I actually planking the entire stern area but made sure to make little tick marks indicating where the stern framing lined up. Once I had the entire stern planked I took each gallery window and positioned it where it should go. Then I went around it with a new blade and cut the opening. I did it this was to ensure the opening was exact to the window frames. I just felt that doing it per the instructions would leave some major gaps. But once again, to each their own and the approach taken should be what each craftsman is comfortable with.

Before I continue on I must remain true to form. This is, after all, an honest build log. I was completely unhappy with the results of the stern planking where it met the top rail. It really, really bothered me and the photos I took for this log actually made it bother me even more. I could not accept the results of my work. See sad photo below.

To rectify the situation I decided to sand the stern top rail flush with the stern planking until everything was really nice and smooth. Then I took a 2x2mm piece of scrap wood and glued it to the top rail to extend the rail out beyond the stern planking. Since the top rail was only 1.5mm thick I had to align the 2x2mm strip along the bottom of the rail. Then I went and sanded the tops and sides of the added piece until it blended beautifully into the existing top rail. Finally, I went ahead and painted the rail once again. The end result was a top rail that looks like a solid piece and extends beyond the stern area consistently from port to starboard. See happy photo below.

It was a very productive weekend and I was able to move onto the lower bulwarks. If first tackled the port side. For both the bow and the stern areas I first bent the planks to shape. I then dry fit them into place and trimmed accordingly. Then I went ahead and glued them into place. I actually left each plank just a wee bit longer than necessary. Once the glue had dried I went back in with a clean sharp blade and trimmed the exposed edges. Doing it this way ensured that the second plank layer married perfectly with the plank underneath.

Once everything was trimmed I sanded following my typical process. Then I taped the bulwarks off from the side planking prior to painting. As with other parts of this build I used my same 50/50 mix of paint and water and carefully applied it to the appropriate areas. Then I peeled off the tape and enjoyed the results.

Finally, I finished up the port and starboard planking with the stern trim pieces. Following the instructions I added the trim piece that flows from the lower bulwarks up to the top of the stern decorative piece. I then sanded it to align smoothly with the stern decorative piece. Again, the sanding was a personal preference. You could also leave it as it, or do something different, it's your build and up to you. I also chose to add an additional piece of finish trim that continued from the top of the decorative piece to the top rail. I did this to hide the transition from the stern to side planking and it is actually done on many ships. Later in the build I will enhance this area with a more decorative scroll and will be sure to include a post about that as well.

The good news is this completes the major construction portion of the build and, thankfully, the most dusty portion. The bad news is I now need to take a few hours and clean this thing thoroughly. Once I have it cleaned as perfectly as I can I will apply wipe on poly where needed. This will all be in the next post.

The great cabin windows are not necessarily difficult from an assembly standpoint. However, they do require a significant amount of patience and a delicate hand at times. Any attempt to rush through these will not turn out well, I am sure of that.

The first few steps go fairly smoothly. When handling the window frames as you shape them accordingly you must be very careful. There is not much meat to these things and any amount of force greater than what is needed to barely remove wood will result in breakage. Take your time and do not try to take off too much wood with a single stroke. Eventually, the shape for the frame edges will come into fruition and you will have intact window frames.

The instructions did call for a 45 degree angle sanded into the vertical outside edges of all frames. A couple items to note here. First: I found that the angle for the forward edge of the forward most window frame and the angle for the stern edge of the sternmost window frame were actually greater than 45 degrees. I did not measure the exact angle and instead just did a routing of sand and dry fit until they sat nicely. However, I rough guess would be closer to 60 degrees. Second: I found the center frame did not need any bevel sanded into the edges at all. If I did a 60 degree where the outside frame met the decorative backer and a 45 degree on the inside edge of the two outer frames then the middle frame fell neatly into place. Again, I did not measure my angels for accuracy and am simply giving you rough angles. You should sand and dry fit repeatedly for your build and let that determine your ultimate angles for each, using the above as guidance. In the end, the goal is to have all the frames meet up without a gap on the face. A gap towards the rear will not ultimately be visible once the top and bottom pieces are added, so no need to overthink it. But I do like to know things are nice and tight even if no one can see it so I tend to go overboard in some instances.

For the top and bottom pieces, if you take your time and check repeatedly against the assembled parts you will enjoy success. I does not take much effort to accidentally remove too much wood. And in my experience, and probably yours, it is much more difficult to put the wood back on after you sanded it off.

As with the previous bits I took this slow and methodical and repeatedly tested it against the windows and the decorative backer until I was satisfied with the results. Prior to gluing the pieces into place I went ahead and painted the window frames black to compliment the rest of the ship.

Finally, I added the four molding pieces - two top and two bottom. I initially tried to do these without soaking them. It did not work will and the delicate part quickly snapped. Thankfully the kit provides you with two extra parts for each side so I had a bonus try at it. After soaking for about a minute the parts bent nicely into place.

Finally...I got to attach the great gallery windows to the hull. This required a bit of cutting away of the bulwarks to ensure the assembly sat flush against the hull. Once done I was really happy with the results. Really happy.

It wasn't until I was reviewing the photos I took for this post that I noticed I had made a huge mistake and not mounted these at the same height.

"Measure twice and cut once." - I believe I have heard that somewhere before. In fact, I know I have regurgitated it several times in this log alone. Yet I find myself being myself and not listening to myself and here I am having to redo something.

In the third image below you can see the two window assembled side by side and it is apparent I am off. It looks like a huge amount as these are really zoomed in. In reality it is only about 1.5 to 2mm. But it sure does look like a lot especially since the upper bulwarks (the 2mm black bulwark trim) provides an obvious reference.

I left this for a few days contemplating if I should do anything about it. No one can see both sides of the ship at the same time, so who will notice. But there again, now that I know I am unable to get it out of my head. In fact, knowing me, I will probably point it out to anyone who views the ship when they visit my home. So I must correct it. Guess you know what the next few posts will be about :)

Tenderfoot,
very neatly done and some good photography to go with it.
Well done.
Chris

As promised, this post is dedicated to correcting the errors of my ways. If you have read through this log from the beginning you have likely noticed that I am about as far from an experienced modeler as one can be and I am constantly my own worst enemy when it comes to the modeling decisions I make. As a result I constantly find myself spending time to correct my lapses in judgement and execution.

On the flip side, all this self torture has helped me to learn many new ways of doing things. In a strange sort of way I enjoy taking on the challenge of correcting myself. The lopsided placement of the great gallery windows is just the latest example and I am sure I will have a few more on this build and definitely many, many more on future builds.

To correct the install of the gallery windows and make them more balanced from port to starboard I decided it would be best to remove the starboard side window assembly. Thankfully, with a small bit of water and a smidge of coercion with a knife the piece came free with very little damage to the underlying planking. So little damage that a few seconds of light sanding removed any blemishes. So this part went as well as could be expected.

Instead of trying to cut a curvature into a replacement piece of wood for the lower bulwarks I took what is a standard approach and cut an opening in the the bulwarks that had clean edged and 90 degree corners. Then I cut a new piece of planking to fit into that spot. After letting the glue dry for several minutes I came back in with some semi-rough sandpaper and got the piece roughly flush with the rest of the bulwarks. Finally, I sanded again with some 320 to get everything as perfect as my skills allowed.

To wrap up Month 11 we only need to install the finish pieces at the stern. After freeing these from the templates I simply dry fit them first. Neither one needed any adjustment so I then glued them into place.

If you need to adjust these at all it is no big deal. I doubt anyone really gets the transom and the two side at the perfect angle. Besides, that's the purpose of trim, to cover those small annoyances. So take advantage of it.

Some may have noticed in previous posts that I did some additional work after installing these. NOTE: This next bit is a slight mod...I decided to shape the trim where it met the stern decor to give everything more of a finished look. Additionally, I decided to add another piece of trim to cover the transition between the stern and the hull planking all the way up to the top rail.