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 Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Quote:once again weve been duped by deag and left with a far from " museum quality" model. I dont think so, the ship wont build itself, the wood wont make it any better than what you put into it. You can make it museum quality if you look at little further ahead and make some choices on various aspects of the build, ie: paints, stains, copper plating ect. If you think at this stage it will below par then it will be, think ahead and plan. Only my opinion, so please dont take this the wrong way people.
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 Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2010 Posts: 545 Points: 1,536 Location: lossiemouth
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if deag said in the begining it would be built of basswood for easy building you would still have started and a lot more people who though coudnot do it would have tried knowing it would be easy with this type of wood how many people have tried this hobby and gave up be cause they could not bend the other types of wood,anny way you have the frame so plank it with what you want. its the frame thats important for the shape not the type of wood ,colour ,.stain
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 Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Hi Lonestar Spirit When you Quote a person will you please not change the text into Bold to highlight a part of the quote as this gives other the impression that I emphasized those words and I didn't you did!. As for the Caldercraft version of HMS Victory, yes this is a great kit, but it is a kit, not a part work, also it has an instruction book not a step by step photo instructions known as a practicum, these cost between £100 - £200 or more depending on the level of detail given. If this kit was sold as a part work with a practicum you would be looking at a price of around £1000 + not £698, so as you can see you should compare like for like. Was your anchor stock Lime wood or even your gun carriage NO! it was not, so they do use other woods in the build not just lime wood. Have you ever tried to bend Walnut it takes a careful hand and is best done after it's been in a steam box to soften the wood or it snaps, soaking isn't as good as steaming under pressure. The best materials will not change the fact that, you are the builder, it is your skill and patience that will dictate what the end result of your work will look like. Take your time and make any changes to the build you feel is needed, it's your model after all not DeAGOSTINI's. I wish we had more information about the build e.g. part lists and plans.
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 Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 498 Points: 1,522 Location: South Wales
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RussG wrote:I Think we are getting a bit obsessed with the Basswood issue!
Basswood is an American term. Here in the UK we know it as Lime, Yep Lime wood from the Tilia tree, or Lime Tree in the UK. Forgot to mention that it is quite resilient to humidity!! great in our central heated houses! I think most of us already knew that, but thanks for pointing it out anyway! as for humidity, are you saying that a hull made of walnut or rosewood wouldn't last as long as a hull made of lime? Zeptrader wrote:
I dont think so, the ship wont build itself, the wood wont make it any better than what you put into it. You can make it museum quality if you look at little further ahead and make some choices on various aspects of the build, ie: paints, stains, copper plating ect.
If you think at this stage it will below par then it will be, think ahead and plan.
I do disagree with you on the wood issue, as for looking ahead, well that's almost impossible with this build, seeing as we dont know whats ahead yet! willie wrote:if deag said in the begining it would be built of basswood for easy building you would still have started and a lot more people who though coudnot do it would have tried knowing it would be easy with this type of wood how many people have tried this hobby and gave up be cause they could not bend the other types of wood,anny way you have the frame so plank it with what you want. its the frame thats important for the shape not the type of wood ,colour ,.stain DeAgostini have not sated that their use of Basswood (Lime  ) is being used because of it's ease of use, I said that! but if I had of know in the beginning that this was the main choice of material, I wouldn't have subscribed! As far as the ribs being the most important? Sorry but I disagree, they are only the foundation for a good model, it's the material and craftsmanship that make a great model!!! Son of Bulwark wrote:Hi Lonestar Spirit When you Quote a person will you please not change the text into Bold to highlight a part of the quote as this gives other the impression that I emphasized those words and I didn't you did!. As for the Caldercraft version of HMS Victory, yes this is a great kit, but it is a kit, not a part work, also it has an instruction book not a step by step photo instructions known as a practicum, these cost between £100 - £200 or more depending on the level of detail given. If this kit was sold as a part work with a practicum you would be looking at a price of around £1000 + not £698, so as you can see you should compare like for like. Was your anchor stock Lime wood or even your gun carriage NO! it was not, so they do use other woods in the build not just lime wood. Have you ever tried to bend Walnut it takes a careful hand and is best done after it's been in a steam box to soften the wood or it snaps, soaking isn't as good as steaming under pressure. The best materials will not change the fact that, you are the builder, it is your skill and patience that will dictate what the end result of your work will look like. Take your time and make any changes to the build you feel is needed, it's your model after all not DeAGOSTINI's. I wish we had more information about the build e.g. part lists and plans. But you did say it, so point made! Artesania Latina, do a full colour instruction booklet, along with various types of material, they dont have a Basswood hull, their ribs are also 6mm thick unlike our 4mm, this subscription is based on that model, so why is the Artesania Latina cheaper, oh and it comes with a full set of plans As for bending walnut, Yes I have! on three ships now, and I found no issues with it! as for material, Im afraid I disagree with you again, the matreial does matter, especially when your paying for it, and no matter what skill craftsman you are, the material is the most important! that's why every kit manufacturer out there does incredible research on this before they start! including shipwrights! but if my concern is wrong, why do you also wish there was a parts list and plans? Best wishes Me! Ship Builds on the go
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 Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Hi Lonestar I know what I said, but when you Quote a person will you please not change the text into Bold to highlight a part of the quote as this gives other the impression that I emphasized those words and I didn't you did!. You clearly feel you are right to do so, but your not, when your change a quote emphasizing a small part to make your point you have changed the quote!. Leave the quote as written by all means copy a section of the quote and highlight it as part in your post as you write it, not in the quote itself. e.g. Lonestar Spirit wrote:but if my concern is wrong, why do you also wish there was a parts list and plans?
Lonestar wrote "but if my concern is wrong, why do you also wish there was a parts list and plans?", I could make this bold italic or change it's colour. Answer to stop people from getting concerned about the build and help people plan ahead! admin wrote:Lime is a hardwood that is also flexible and easily worked, so it's ideal for the purpose. It was used for some of the finest historic carvings in Europe, including those by Grinling Gibbons, whose work included Blenheim Palace and St Paul's Cathedral.
You could have all the best woods, but skill is important without it you'll have a nice pile of scrap wood not a thing of beauty. END OF LINE
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 Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
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Son of Bulwark wrote:Hi Lonestar I know what I said, but when you Quote a person will you please not change the text into Bold to highlight a part of the quote as this gives other the impression that I emphasized those words and I didn't you did!. You clearly feel you are right to do so, but your not, when your change a quote emphasizing a small part to make your point you have changed the quote!. Leave the quote as written by all means copy a section of the quote and highlight it as part in your post as you write it, not in the quote itself. e.g. Lonestar Spirit wrote:but if my concern is wrong, why do you also wish there was a parts list and plans?
Lonestar wrote "but if my concern is wrong, why do you also wish there was a parts list and plans?", I could make this bold italic or change it's colour. Answer to stop people from getting concerned about the build and help people plan ahead! admin wrote:Lime is a hardwood that is also flexible and easily worked, so it's ideal for the purpose. It was used for some of the finest historic carvings in Europe, including those by Grinling Gibbons, whose work included Blenheim Palace and St Paul's Cathedral.
You could have all the best woods, but skill is important without it you'll have a nice pile of scrap wood not a thing of beauty. [b][size=9]END OF LINE So what's your point? Ship Builds on the go
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 Rank: Pro    Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/03/2010 Posts: 215 Points: 617 Location: Blackburn
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I never thought i would agree with what David (lonestar) said cause he has always given Deag a chance but on this occasion i have to agree with what he says. Why is that Brits accept what ever they are given and never complain. This model was advertised as a museum quality kit. In reality its far from that, Deag are saving themselves money on production and not passing the savings onto the people that bought into their false advertising. Yes, people can improve on what there given but when spending £700+ you should expect a quality model. I cant see the point of spending over £700 on a basswood or lime model. When spending that amount of money you expect something thats worth it not a cheap quality kit. To me i dont like paying £200 for a model and £500 for instructions, i subscribed to this build because of false advertising of promises of museum quality. To some people its great not to pay for a kit in one and it is for me but that kit is supposed to be as advertised and not of a lesser quality.
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 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/03/2010 Posts: 146 Points: 473 Location: Plymouth
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Andy, I'd like to associate myself with your thoughts. Whether you call it basewood or limewood the point is that additional cost is involved in making it something that it isn't by either staining or veneering. I think Lonestar has a valid point that is neither lost nor diminished in an English lesson on quotation marks (we'll be getting into referencing either Chicago or Harvard systems next). Lets all stay as shipmates and forge on with the build but I make this point to DeAgostini, we owe no loyalty to a company that doesnot recognise or support its client base. I accept that the company have acknowledged some errors after a great deal of representation i.e. the cannons, however; more could be done. Plans and a build list would be helpful. Surely with the time required for the order of base materials etc. the company must be working more than a few issues in advance. One would hope so at least. With their expansion into other models it makes sense to retain a loyal client base doesn't it? ArtfulBodger Previous Build: HMS. Bounty
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/04/2010 Posts: 3,955 Points: 11,809 Location: uk
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do I detect a mutiny?? come on shipmates cool down,I think the cameradery(keyboard can't speel)and in depth discussions with the pics,and tips,I think the forum is priceless,I'm sure deag have taken note of our moans,we either stay with it or leave,we don't need to persuad others to leave,the pros and cons have been digested and discussed many many times,and I'm still here,and I hope many others will be.so shipmates what's it going to be?? Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Hi, All
I for one agree also with David. I subscribed on the knowledge from the Dvd and pictures that the wood was original not stained, Looking at the pictures in the mags and the dvd it is proper wood not stained. If they were thinking of the beginner as they say then why didn't they double plank as this is far easier for beginners than single planks in Walnut say. They have saved money on some parts so why not double plank with the savings made. But they haven't.
Copper paint for the bottom will Cheapen the Ship. It needs proper copper plates which would not be that expensive around £30. But we should not need to buy them, They should be included.
The Caldercraft Victory has everything in the box, you do not need to replace the planks with better, you know what you are getting from the beginning. This build is £700 and we have to spend more on making it look better.
The instructions are good for newbies on the deag but Caldercraft instructions are not rubbish. I built the San Francisco 2 with artesania instructions and they are bad. But I managed it. That was my first build I had done.I have only been making them since November last year.. This forum had only just started when I got it so there was no experienced builders to ask. But I managed. I am not saying all can just do it, My point is that we don't need to be paying over the odds for really great instructions when slightly more basic ones are adequate enough to make the ship, PLUS we get Tomicks build. Why not spend more on materials Deag.. Than The instructions.. On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 18/03/2010 Posts: 121 Points: 359 Location: Waterlooville, Portsmouth. The home of HMS Victory.
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Hi guys I hope you don't mind if I put my 5 penneth in but all this arguing over a bit of wood is distressing to say the least. Me........... I don't care what wood is used because there are so many options open. Deag say you can copper the hull or leave it natural (you can see the natural finish models in your magazine). You can stain the hull, my experiment below. Let me first add what Lonestar said a few months ago:- QUOTE: To be honest, this forum has lost it's edge, half of you here in this thread haven't stopped moaning from day one, nobody forced you to subscribe, if you think your getting ripped off, go and buy an off the shelf kit! I cannot remember DeAgostini ever offering the copper for free???? but so far I have seen (The pudding should be included, the paints should be included, the copper should be included, the binders should be free, the FREE tool kits are crap) so you tell me where greed doesn't come into it? The same applies when you buy a car, the extras cost!!!UNQUOTE   You can paint the hull battleship grey as in the Dockyard today. Indeed if the walnut strips were supplied you will still have to use pudding to fill the gaps. That idea will look strange to say the least. (At this point do you blame Deag for not designing a model with no gaps?) You can copper the hull and leave it nice and shiny or distress the copper accordingly. There is a dark varnish available that will give a wonderful finish. Enough I say and start using your skills and imagination. One thing I can say, there are nearly 800 members on the forum and not one will be the same as another. It is only the modeller that can make his build in unique.
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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 18/03/2010 Posts: 121 Points: 359 Location: Waterlooville, Portsmouth. The home of HMS Victory.
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Zeptrader wrote:Quote:once again weve been duped by deag and left with a far from " museum quality" model. I dont think so, the ship wont build itself, the wood wont make it any better than what you put into it. You can make it museum quality if you look at little further ahead and make some choices on various aspects of the build, ie: paints, stains, copper plating ect. If you think at this stage it will below par then it will be, think ahead and plan. Only my opinion, so please dont take this the wrong way people. Here Here Col.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Quote:It is only the modeller that can make his build in unique And surely that's part of this wonderful hobby. (and don't call me Shirley)
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 Rank: Vice-Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2010 Posts: 545 Points: 1,536 Location: lossiemouth
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magpie 1832 wrote I subscribed on the knowledge from the Dvd and pictures that the wood was original not stained, Looking at the pictures in the mags and the dvd it is proper wood not stained. If they were thinking of the beginner as they say then why didn't they double plank as this is far easier for beginners than single planks in Walnut say. They have saved money on some parts so why not double plank with the savings made. But they haven't.
duble planking would be easy for beginners i dout it to do it right you use impact glue which gives you one chance to get it right, get it wrong you have to destroy the plank to start again which in turn destroys the first plank i know because it happen to me,just make shoure you have double the amount of planks you need be fore you start if you are a beginner, as it was SAID on an other page in this form use anny other type of glue on thin planks they warp
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Hi, Double planked ships use 1mm thick planks for their second plank, using aliphatic glue on both surfaces and waiting shortly you get instant grab as well. Also using the a little glue wet doesn't warp 1mm. only 0.5mm warps, I know as I have used many times and not had warp from it.
It has been of great discussion about single and double, and the majority say double is better for beginners as they get 2 attempts at getting it right and the complex curves are easier to shape with double planking.
I am not getting into debate over what is better, The original post was about what will all the rest of the ship be made of...... Will it be Basswood again... Stained Basswood/Lime masts etc.... On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Paul wrote:Hi guys I hope you don't mind if I put my 5 penneth in but all this arguing over a bit of wood is distressing to say the least. Me........... I don't care what wood is used because there are so many options open. Deag say you can copper the hull or leave it natural (you can see the natural finish models in your magazine). You can stain the hull, my experiment below.
Let me first add what Lonestar said a few months ago:-
QUOTE:To be honest, this forum has lost it's edge, half of you here in this thread haven't stopped moaning from day one, nobody forced you to subscribe, if you think your getting ripped off, go and buy an off the shelf kit! I cannot remember DeAgostini ever offering the copper for free???? but so far I have seen (The pudding should be included, the paints should be included, the copper should be included, the binders should be free, the FREE tool kits are crap) so you tell me where greed doesn't come into it? The same applies when you buy a car, the extras cost!!!UNQUOTE
You can paint the hull battleship grey as in the Dockyard today. Indeed if the walnut strips were supplied you will still have to use pudding to fill the gaps. That idea will look strange to say the least. (At this point do you blame Deag for not designing a model with no gaps?) You can copper the hull and leave it nice and shiny or distress the copper accordingly. There is a dark varnish available that will give a wonderful finish.
Enough I say and start using your skills and imagination. One thing I can say, there are nearly 800 members on the forum and not one will be the same as another. It is only the modeller that can make his build in unique.
Thanks for the update, and if you read that message again, what you quoted me saying, has nothing to do with this post, as most subscribers back then were complaining about extras, this post is about the quality of the build and materials ie WOOD! so your use of this quote is pointless!  but you do raise a good point too, I have always been the first to defend DeAg, but I feel I cant do this right now, not unless they come clean about what type of material were going to be getting in future issues, I have a right to ask questions, as does everyone else, but it seems lately, that anyone say anything bad about the build, gets attacked by the groupies! it's no wonder these days that people dont bother posting questions and have shied away! due to the bullish tactics of some! Stop thinking about yourselves, and start thinking about others too, so to get back on topic, I ask the question again. Dear Admin, can you please find out what material is going to be provided for the upper decks planking/fittings and fixtures please.Ship Builds on the go
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 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/07/2010 Posts: 1,036 Points: 3,086 Location: Thetford, Norfolk, UK
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Hi again everyone I believe DeAg do consider our interest in this build, but in this present economic climate of rising prices and political turmoil, they, for the reason of maintaining a profit for themselves, have made decisions to change the 'spec' of the materials which we may or may not agree with. But if it means the difference between seeing the kit through to its conclusion or terminating it prematurely, I am happy with the decision because it means that I have the 'once in a lifetime' chance to build a wonderful replica of a glorious ship. Whether it turns out as 'museum quality' or just mediocre is all down to what effort I put into it with the materials at hand. but, whatever the outcome of the build, it will have given me immense satisfaction at such an acheivement. I really value the input of all you guys on this forum which helps me make decisions about the build. Tomick's build diary is an excellent example which because it over a month ahead of me, gives me the opportunity to understand what's coming and what challenges I face, so for me, they are my 'plans' for the build. Finally, if we have an issue with DeAg, surely we should be sticking together on that and not bickering amongst ourselves. Perhaps there is some way we could come together as a combined voice with some sort of petition to DeAg. (Ideas about that lastone!shipmates?) Happy building Daffy09
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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 278 Points: 833 Location: Nottingham
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I wish I never open my mouth but I was concerned, afraid I was getting ripped off as these things were in the offering at the time I subscribed last May I didnt imagin them. If I or others cannot voice their concerns on the forum without there being uproar where else is there. As it happens I'm now pleased that most of the experience builders amongst us are not phased by the use of basswood/lime wood and stains. Good enough for me at the moment. Pam's shipyard is closed for now no more room!
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 Rank: Master    Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 1,199 Points: 3,473 Location: Glenrothes
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 nothing wrong with you airing your concerns as you can tell by the response there are a lot of people in the same boat Glad you have found something positive & continuing with your build
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/03/2010 Posts: 57 Points: 179 Location: bedford uk
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so if we have to stain the wood for different colours does that mean we will get them as part of the part work? i as many others assumed rightly or wrongly that we would get the end result shown on the adverts and issue 1 without extra costs. if i am wrong then so be it but as lonestar says would be nice to know in advance what future materials are going to be and perhaps even a list of what "other items" we are going to be required to buy extra to get the "museum quality" model we thought we were getting
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