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arpurchase wrote: Some history on super glues the medical part may be of interest as it was used to stop bleeding in the vietnam war. First discovered in 1942 believe it or not. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate
I use medium C/A mostly the thin is deadly as it gets everywhere you dont want it to go. Andy  Thanks Andy that was really interesting to read Jase  “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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magpie1832 wrote:arpurchase wrote: Some history on super glues the medical part may be of interest as it was used to stop bleeding in the vietnam war. First discovered in 1942 believe it or not. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate
I use medium C/A mostly the thin is deadly as it gets everywhere you dont want it to go. Andy I use super glue on cuts. It’s actually better than a plaster, being a mechanic plasters don’t stay on lol. I agree with the thin super glue, it gets everywhere usually on fingers to parts. Medium is easier to use and you get a little longer to readjust. Gel super glue is good for PE as it stays where you need it. I use Thick for filling in gaps with a squirt of activator. Chris I quite agree on the thin CA I only use it on PE railings generally thanks for sharing your thoughts J “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Signal Lamp - Did you know.
Did you know that the common nursery rhyme about making the rain go away is routed in one of history most famous navel events?
Rain, rain, go away,
Come again another day.
Is commonly said in Briton on a rainy day in a hope that the rain will stop and go away until another day.
But this is the full version of the Rhyme:
Rain, rain, go away,
Come again another day.
Little Johnny wants to play;
Rain, rain, go to Spain,
Never show your face again!
It originates from the Tudor time of Queen Elizabeth 1 and is related to the attempted 1588 invasion of England by the Spanish Armada with 130 ships, and their ultimate defeat by the English navy with 34 Navy vessels and 163 armed merchant ships. The English victory was not only due to superior tactics and the swift nature of the smaller English ships, but also due to the stormy weather which scattered the Spanish ships. Hence, "Rain, Rain Go Away".
Jase“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Crows Nest - How to organise multiple Instructions.
In this blog I wanted to discuss how to organise build instruction where you have to bring several instructions together. Most kits come with some form of build sequence to follow which has been designed by the manufacturer to help you build the kit without any issues. but what happens when you introduce more instructions. with the ever growing range of after market additions updates and replacements available you can be faced at several sets of instructions to digest. whats more all those changes to the original kit may well require a change in the build sequence to accommodate the changes.
Having built countless models that have incorporated several sets of instructions I wanted to share the way of working that I have refined over time.
To demonstrate my way of organising a build I will be using the Heller Scharnhorst 1:400 kit instructions along with 3 sets of White Ensign etch instructions and a set of Awok wood deck instructions. Photo 1
1. My first rule is that the Kit instructions should remain 'the' set of instructions refers to in the build.
2. My next step is to identify each set of instructions with some form of reference, I use the kit reference if possible for example PE4002 to refer to the large etch set as in Photo 2. if the main kit instructions do not have step numbers I create them
3. I carefully go through the instructions for each set and note them in the step on the main instructions as well as the secondary instructions. You will see in Photo 3 I have added '23' this refers to the step in the main instructions that these etch parts are used. In Photo 4 you will see I have noted within step 23 of the kit instructions the addition of part 24 from etch set 4002. Also you will se I have hi lighted that part 27 of the kit needs to be looked at, this part is modified.
4. Where several parts are used together in an assembly such as in Photo 5 I group these together on the instructions as in Photo 6. This is important as sometimes there may be more than one assembly within a step. Photo 7 shows two sets of etch assembly and the 'A9' (artwork part number 9) refers to the wood deck required in that single step
5. if necessary separate steps on the secondary instructions to reflect the main instructions. photo 8 shows two options being separated as they are in different steps on the main instructions.
6. Some Items may be used in several steps, note them all down so you don't miss anything as in Photo 9
7. Not all parts on the etch fret may require assembly and my not be shown in the instructions. photo 10 shows some parts which are not shown in the instructions, again I will ensure that they are referenced on bot sets of instructions.
8. if your unsure if parts may be need note down that question in photo 11 you can se I have added '?r/l' hear I am questioning if I need to ad railings and ladders. I will do some research to establish this and use the parts in the etch to fit out the assembly correctly. I will do the same if I feel something may need scratch building or modifying.
We now have a full set of cross referenced instructions allow you to clearly se at what point you need to consult the other instructions and also where you can straight build without having to check back.
The last thing to do is sanity check the build process.
9. list out al the steps in the instructions, in the case of this build there are 28. on a sheet of paper I then put the steps in chronological order to how I won't to build the kit. in the case of Ships I generally prefer to build from the middle out. I will also make some build notes. in photo you can see that I have decided to build step 1 first but omit some of the parts until later, step 2 second and step 28 (installing the deck) third
10. the final step is to add additional stages if necessary, Photo 13 shows me adding a step to instal the main deck railings and flag staff as the final stage.
You now should be able to build feeling organised and without worrying you missed something
I would love to hear peoples thoughts on this, how do you take this? any tips you want to share?
Until the next Blog
Jasejase attached the following image(s): “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Hi Shipmates,
As I said right at the start I want to do a bit of history, but rather than writing an essay on certain topics that you can google anyhow I thought it would be more fun to do something a bit different soooooo.
Welcome to the first Navy legends on trial Blog in these blogs I will but navy legends on trial offer the case for and against and you are the jury! I will put on trial different navy hero, ships even battles and you can give your verdict on history.
Our first trial is King Henry VIII and the case to be tried is.
WAS HENRY VIII THE FOUNDER OF THE MODERN ROYAL NAVY?
First the case for
The Tudor dynasty plays a pivotal role in the the foundation of what would one day become the Royal Navy. Henry particularly is responsible for laying the foundations of a Navy,
Henry significantly invested in ship building, he pushed the development of dedicated war ships, when built the Mary Rose and her sister ship, the Peter Pomegranate were revolutionary as they were the first purpose built war ships to use the new gun port technology allowing a greater number of guns and thus much more powerful. MARY Rose was such a successful ship she saw service for 30 years before being refuted. Henry also built the most powerful ship of the age the Henry Grace A' Dieu Nicknamed 'Great Harry', at between 1000 and 1500 tons she was graced with five decks and more than 200 hundred bronze and iron cannons. An inventory for her shows that she was meant to carry 400 soldiers, 260 sailors, and 40 gunners.
In all Henry swelled the fleet from 8 ships to include 46 warships as well as 13 small galleys. Twenty six ships were purchased fully built, while an additional 13 joined his fleet due to the result of capture to protect Englands trade routs and move troops to the continent.
Finally Henry during his rule the Royal dockyards were located in Portsmouth and expanded. But that was far away from the Armouries in the Tower of London where the ships were fitted with cannons and artillery. So, under Henry VIII two Royal dockyards were constructed on the Thames to build warships. They were at Woolwich and Deptford. Both places were close enough to London to obtain arms and a labour force. Henry also set up dedicated nautical schools to create professional sailors and navigators. this is the foundation of the model navy and much of that infrastructure is the same as today.
The case Against
Henry VIII was obsessed with power and his place in history, just look at his official title
Henry the Eighth, by the Grace of God, King of England, France and Ireland, Defender of the Faith and of the Church of England and also of Ireland in Earth Supreme Head
yes he built a large number of ships but this was more about appearance than a defined strategy to become a sea power. Henry personally oversaw the modifications to the Mary Rose that lead to her sinking and huge loss of life.
On His death the huge fleet he had built had significantly shrunk and was in a very poor state. Henry did not create a standing Navy despite having dedicated war ships.
It can be argued that Britain did not start to emerge as a significant sea power until the defeat of the Spanish Armada and it took until The battle of trafalgar to confirm that.
Henry VIII is mom famous for having a ship that sank.
Please cast your judgment on Henry VIII was he the fonder of the Royal Navy?
please reply with a Yes or a No. all votes will be counted in one weeks time
Jase“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Block and tackle - Planking Fan Tool.
Planking a wooden ships hull can be tackled in different ways. The one thing all model builders will agree on is that it takes time, calculation and thought. It is common to plank a ship using wedges to fit the gaps that naturally occur as the planks are laid, there are plenty of methods of doing that process. but what if you want to avoid dong this? whether it be a model with a single planked hull or the second planking, if you want to show strips running the length of the hull with no gap filling then you will need to create a planking fan.
A planking fan maps out the thickness of your planks at each frame they are fixed to. traditionally this involves measuring the gap, making calculations and plotting on large sheet of paper and hoping your maths hasn't let you down, it can be quite time consuming.
However there is a simple and quick solution these days, the use of a spreadsheet. So I have created two planking fan spreadsheets that create the template for the creation of your planking fan, one in Excel and one in Numbers. they are both free to whoever wants them and can be downloaded from the links below
Jase
Excel
https://www.dropbox.com/...20fan%20Excel.xlsx?dl=0
numbers
https://www.dropbox.com/...king%20Fan.numbers?dl=0
.“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Hi Jase, am sure the planking fan tools you have provided links for will come in very handy to many modellers, good idea.... I find that the method of planking a model ship comes down to a modellers level of experience and confidence. Using pointed wedges to fill gaps generally works well for the novice, if the hull is to have a second planking layer, if being painted or having copper plates attached. All these methods will hide any minor defects. As experience grows then the novice may wish to move onto planking the hull using a fan method and I don't think many large ships were planked with single length strakes. It is however a good method for those that wish to go for a more natural wood finish. The more challenging and rewarding method would be the use of droppers or stealers to cover the hull and this is normally undertaken by the most experienced of model builders. I would also say to any novice builder to have a good look through the planking guide for beginners, link is provided below. It will give them a good insight on the basics of how to go about this task.... https://forum.model-spac...aspx?g=posts&t=5669
Thanks again... Regards Alan
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Gandale wrote:Hi Jase, am sure the planking fan tools you have provided links for will come in very handy to many modellers, good idea.... I find that the method of planking a model ship comes down to a modellers level of experience and confidence. Using pointed wedges to fill gaps generally works well for the novice, if the hull is to have a second planking layer, if being painted or having copper plates attached. All these methods will hide any minor defects. As experience grows then the novice may wish to move onto planking the hull using a fan method and I don't think many large ships were planked with single length strakes. It is however a good method for those that wish to go for a more natural wood finish. The more challenging and rewarding method would be the use of droppers or stealers to cover the hull and this is normally undertaken by the most experienced of model builders. I would also say to any novice builder to have a good look through the planking guide for beginners, link is provided below. It will give them a good insight on the basics of how to go about this task.... http://forum.model-space...aspx?g=posts&t=5669
Thanks again... Regards Alan Hi Alan, many thanks for your contribution, totally agree, lots of divergent methods that suit different skills. Thanks for the link reminder, its definitely a good starting point, and the planking fan tool can be used to replace the step they use paper for. Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Ditty Box - Tacky Wax
In Todays Blog I wanted to talk about Tacky Wax, sometimes known as museum way.
Tacky Wax is a semi-perminant adhesive that is commonly used by model builders of dolls houses and railways, but is often overlooked by other modellers. The product is is promoted as the ideal solution for placing figures or other objects on a diorama as you can reposition them, ideal for railway modelling and why it is a common product in museums.
Tacky Wax has loads of potential uses, I have used it for keeping screws on a screwdriver, complex multi-part dry fitting to check everything fits as it should, placement of small parts and for placing figures and vehicles on dioramas.
The advantage of this product over other glues is that it won't damage the paint or be absorbed by your diorama sub-stright. For ship builders its the ideal product for placing crew or even placing ships boats or parts like guns that you may want to reposition occasionally.
Some caution should be used on wood that has not been sealed with a varnish but otherwise this is a great product with so many potential uses.
A pot of tacky wax will set you back about £3 and it is said you are more likely to loos the pot then use it up as it goes such a long way.
Jase
File Attachment(s): jase attached the following image(s): “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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I get the idea of using this stuff to temp secure figures or items in place, but does it not leave a wax residue on the part if using it for holding parts?
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Genraly I have had no issues as you use a very small amount, any residue is much less than you may get of the wax etch placing pencils for example, however it ia always worth checking it out with spare material before using it. If you use an excessive amout you will have to clean the parts. Many thanks for looking in Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Signal lamp - worst disaster at sea.
Its a simple question, what is the worst disaster at sea, but there is not a simple answer, it depends upon your point of view. I guess if you asked most people in the street, many would say the sinking of the Titanic, most famous becoming Iconic yes, but not the worst. From a pure casualty point of view, those in the know would site the loss of the Wilhelm Gustloff, around 10,000 deaths 40% children in one sinking trying to escape the red army in January 1945 a tragedy of epic scale, But if we expand our thinking and definition of a disaster we could include a whole war.
The Royal Navy lost of 50,000 sailors in the second world war, but most would not consider that a disaster, despite a 5 fold los of life on the sinking of the Wilhelm Gustloff. maybe we should consider the largest battle at see, again most people may well state the Leyte Gulf, over 300 ships head to head with over 200,000 sailors, but to be honest it looks positively puny next to the 850,000 sailors fighting at close quarters during the battle of Red cliffs in 208AD and does a battle equate to a disaster?
Well maybe a battle at sea that represents a disaster to one side, regardless of loss of life is a disaster, then we would have to consider, the Battle of cape Trafalgar, the Spanish armarda, Jutland and of corse the 2 day devastation of the Russian imperial fleet by the legendary Tojo abroad his British built flagship Makasa with no Japanese losses or midway the pacific war game changer.
All have merit, but for me the worst disaster at sea is the one that is not military, that could have been prevented that had a greater loss of life than the Titanic and to with there has been no lesson learned, it could happen again and that for me is the definition of a disaster.
on the 20th December we remember 30 years since the sinking of the Philippine-registered passenger ferry Doña Paz. The ferry sank after colliding with the MT Vector on December 20, 1987. With a death toll of 4,375 people, the collision is recorded as the deadliest ferry disaster in history during peace time. While most of the passengers slept during the night the ferry collided with the Vector, which was carrying 8,800 barrels of gasoline. The impact caused a fire which quickly spread to the Doña Paz, as well as lighting the surrounding water on fire. The life jackets aboard the Doña Paz were reportedly locked up, forcing passengers to jump into flaming shark-infested waters in order to attempt escape.
Jase“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Block & Tackle - make your own tool, Cordage hook.
Hi all,
In this blog I am going to show you how to make a cordage hook tool that will cost you next to nothing to make saving you £5 on a shop bought one, and is actually better to use
to make this tool you will need a wooden dowel about 5-7mm wide, a length of stiff wire .5mm, a .5mm drill, small amount of tape,a wire cutter, a fine saw and 5 minutes of your valuable time.
The photos below follow the steps.
Step 1. Cut a slot in the end of the dowel about 2mm deep, then repeat so yo have a cross.
Step 2. Drill a hole wide enough to take your wire in my case .5mm. the whole needs to be about 2cm from the top of the down where you cut the cross. the hole should be roughly in line with one of the slots.
Step 3. Thread the wire through the hole and check that it sits in the slot. You need about 2 cm of free wire remaining not threaded.
Step 4. Make a loop in the wire ensuring that the wire passes on the inside above the down as in the photo
Step 5. Push the wire that is on the inside of the loop into the slot.
Step 6. Next push the outside wire loop down into the other slot so that the wire is on top of the first section of wire in the first slot, bend the loop down so it does not ring back.
Step 7. Gently pull the free end of the wire so that the loop closes against the side of the dowel (this should be the bottom wire).
Step 8. Bend the free end of the wire up so that it is at a 90 degrees angle at the centre of the dowel, this should be against the top wire which is holding the bottom wire firmly in place.
Step 9. Form a small loop in the wire, I have used the handle of a needle file to help form the bend.
Step 10. take the wire cutters and cut the wire so that the loop becomes a deep hook. you want the hook to be wide enough to get your rigging thread in easily but not to short that the thread comes out easily when you use it.
Step 11. Bend the wire that is remaining from the hole to pass under the wire on the other side that travels from the hole to the slot and bend it back on its self to lock it in place.
Step 12. Finally wrap a bit of tape around the end of the dowel so that you dont cut your finger on the wire end.
Job done. this tool will allow you to grab and drag rigging threads from the far side towards you, or move them out of the way when working, it has lots of uses and the hook will work better than the hook on the shop bought one
All that remains is to wish all the followers of Scuttlebutt and my builds a very merry Christmas and a prosperous New year
Jasejase attached the following image(s): “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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An interesting way of not having to buy the tool, though I would say that the dowel needs to be more slender.
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Bilge - The Christmas Scrounge.
So Tomorrow is Christmas Day, my favourite day of the year and an important day for us model builders...
Yes Christmas is a good day, Time with the family, a big dinner, maybe a family bond game, Dr Whoo special and no doubt a two Ronnie's repeat to, whats not to like. But its not the only reason I like Christmas. Us model builders tend to be a resourceful bunch and no doubt we have all put something modelling related on the Christmas list, But for me one of the best bits about Christmas is the opportunity for a bit of scrounging, there are lots of things about for the model builder to grab that could be useful in the hobby. hear are some of my favourite past grabs:
Packaging card, can be used for paint masking, its also good for shaming bulkheads that need building up on wooden ship kits.
Got a replacement electrical appliance? then cut the plug cord of the old one and strip it for the copper wire, so may uses in our hobby from making grab Handels to rigging or lashing cord, areas lots and lots of uses
the cable ties used for holding toys in boxes are great for holding things together while they dry, or even to bunch shrouds together before rigging them, again many uses.
I have used the clear agitate from packaging to be used as glazing
All those jar tops from making mince pies etc, are grate for decanting a bit of glue in or even paint mixing pallets.
I have cut the bottom off a 2.5 ltr pop bottle to use it as a water trough for decals
My favourite scrounge was 2 years years ago I grabbed a nut cracker, its such a good tool for removing stubborn paint, glue and any other screw cap, there is nothing I struggle to open with a nut cracker.
If you have ever scrounges something really useful I would love to hear about
Jase
jase attached the following image(s): “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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One this I tend to save and use a lot and that's the screw tops from milk bottles. Give em a wash out and they're great for decanting small quantities of glue, once the glue has dried you simply bend the top and most of the glue comes away allowing you to reuse the top.... Throw away and use another when the old one is past its best..... no expense spared..... Regards Alan
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Scuttlebutt End of year Quiz
Hello All, Just for a bit of fun below are some questions that make up the Scuttlebutt End of year quiz.
The winner is the first person to post all answers correctly.
The Prize, the admiration of your fellow forum members
1. What is the Lutine Bell?
2. On 3-6 July 1940 HMS Hood took part in a very famous, and equally infamous action. Can you name it?
3. The first 'Ark Royal' was originally named 'Ark Raleigh' true or false?
4. HMS Warrior had an unusual launching in 1860. What happened?
5. What are snorkers?
6. Which class of ship had to have large strengthening pieces fixed to the ships for stability due to poor design, two were sunk during the Falklands War.
7. When she was in active service as the British Royal Yacht, the Britannia was commanded by whom? title I am looking for.
8. what does "Black Tot Day" refer to? in the Royal Navy
9. In 1805, Vice admiral Viscount Horatio Nelson was shot on the quarterdeck of HMS Victory during the Battle of Trafalgar and died. prior to this in 1757, another Vice Admiral was shot on the forecastle of HMS Monarch, and killed. Who was he?
10. which British nuclear-powered submarine was the first to sink an enemy ship, using a pre war model torpedo
11. How many torpedoes hit HMS Prince of Wales, sinking her on 10th Dec 1941?
“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Crows Nest - Laying laminate wood deck
Real looking wood decks are becoming an increasing future of the model builders arsenal when looking to improve the look of their plastic model ship. the idea is simple enough but actually applying them is a bit more tricky.
This is how I go about adding laminate wooden decks,
The first thing to think about is a tool for ensuring you have the edges down properly, to my knowledge no such ting exists, so you need to make one. Basically you need a rounded end for pressing down larger areas and a narrow point end for in between small raised details.
I have made one out of some 3mm dowel. simply sand one end to form a chisel flat and round of the other end
With your tool in hand we are ready to go
1. remove the deck piece from the sheet. its very tempting to just pull the deck pieces away but its possible to rip the deck. It is best to take a new blade and run it around the cut edges trimming through the tabs as close to the edge as possible. do the same with any sections that may need cutting out from within the deck piece. note some decks may have markings on them for positioning other parts, these should not be cut out. sam pin holes can be just pushed through with the point of the knife.
2. Check. hold the deck to the light and check you have tried away all the tabs. you only need the tiniest bit of tab left for it to cause deck misalignment.
3. Prep the deck, check what needs to be done to the plastic deck anything need removing or modifying for etch then do this first. then paint any of the deck detail that will protrude through the deck once laid.
4. Test fit. Before removing the backing film it is important to orientate yourself with the fit. you can only remove the deck once at most if you get it wrong so a test fit will help ensure you understand the fit. Check that all the holes clear ant raised points in the deck and that any location holes are lined up.
5. Carefully peel back the backing film using the edge of a sharp blade to separate it from the deck. it is very important not to touch it with you fingers as the adhesive backing has a lot of grab but once soiled loses its adhesion quickly. I use the point of a cocktail stick to hold the deck down while I peel off the film.
6. now comes the tricky bit. VERY IMPORTANT DO NOT APPLY THE DECK AT ONE END AND ROLE IT OUT. If you do this you will slowly move the deck out of position, it will snag on raised detail and the deck will not go down correctly. the way to fit the deck is to lower it into place evenly and level all at once. hold the deck over the plastic deck and lower it on. normally it will go over a turret barber first then gradually over other detail. once your about 1mm above the plastic deck, check your edge alignments and allow the deck to natural fall, it will make contact in some areas not in others.
7. fixing the deck. Start from the middle of the deck and and push it down with you finders first. as you get to parts of the deck that butt up to an edge use the chisel end of your tool to push the deck down. any holes in the deck should be gently pushed down using the rounded end of your tool, apply just enough pressure to make the adhesive grab, if you press too hard you can damage the deck.
8. Hopefully all went well if not you can carefully peel back the deck and try it again, but you won't get a second chance the adhesive will be ruined after that. if some of the deck is not quite sitting correctly a sharp no 11 blade can be used to trim deck. if an edge of the deck is not staying down apply a small amount of CA onto the plastic deck and weigh the wood deck in place until the glue dries.
Jasejase attached the following image(s): “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Crows Nest - The correct way to use Extra thin Poly Cement.
In this Blog I wanted to share the correct way to use Extra Thin Poly cement. Unlike other adhesives you do not put the glue on the surfaces to be joined.
Please see my video on the subject on this link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NgULG40bpys[/color]
[color=darkred]Jase“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Signal lamp, The Royal Navy Toast.
In 2013 two of the daily toasts going back 350 years were changed. Every day the junior officer toasts the Monarch then there is a set daily toast.
Sunday = Absent Friends
Monday = Our Ships at Sea
Tuesday = Our Sailors
Wednesday = Ourselves (as no one else is likely to be concerned for us)
Thursday = A Bloody War or a Sickly Season (and a quick promotion)
Friday = A Willing Foe and Sea-Room
Saturday = Our Families.
But until 2013Tuesday and Saturday toasts were quite different
Tuesday was Our Men, changed to reflect female members of the service
Saturday was Our Wives and Girlfriends (may they never meet). “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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