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Copper Plating Options
Tomick
#21 Posted : 23 August 2011 12:57:21

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In terms of tiling the hull, the hull should be sealed or have a paint finish before tiling to give a sound base for gluing the tiles.

Metallic paint does not apply too well on bare wood, therefore you might want to prime beforehand, don't worry too much about the finish of the copper paint as little or non will be visible once tiled, but I can see your thinking on going this route.

You might want to try a couple of methods on some scrap before you tackle for real
Deepseacodmaster
#22 Posted : 23 August 2011 17:59:04

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Tomick wrote:
In terms of tiling the hull, the hull should be sealed or have a paint finish before tiling to give a sound base for gluing the tiles.

Metallic paint does not apply too well on bare wood, therefore you might want to prime beforehand, don't worry too much about the finish of the copper paint as little or non will be visible once tiled, but I can see your thinking on going this route.

You might want to try a couple of methods on some scrap before you tackle for real



Thanks again MR T.
Your adivece is sound and I will obay BigGrin
First Build HMS Victory and HMS Endeavour
Also Krick steam boat "Victoria"


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Ivan (Ordinary Seaman)
http://www.old-glossop.com
riff-raff
#23 Posted : 23 August 2011 19:42:19

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I am painting my hull with the supplied copper paint - Can I seal the wood with a water/pva mix?
You do not need a parachute to skydive. You only need a parachute to skydive twice.

Built:
Golden Star, English Brig. RMS Titanic. (Academy 1/400 Centenary Anniversary Edition) Revell-Monogram 1/48 B-29 Superfortress 1:8 Baron von Richthofen's Fokker Tri-plane. HMS Victory. Nelsons Flag Ship. Sultan Arab Dhow. Artesania Latina Carmen II. The Battleship Yamato. Model Airways Wright Flyer 1:16 Scale. Trumpeter Bismarck 1/200. HMS Sovereign of the Seas. The Black Pearl.


Building:HMS Surprisel. Hatchette U96. Soleil Royal.
StefanDV
#24 Posted : 24 August 2011 09:26:44

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You should be able to get sanding sealer at your local hardware store.
arpurchase
#25 Posted : 24 August 2011 09:44:30

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BigGrinOr u can make ypur own by adding talcum powder to celulose dope works fine 4 me and reminds me of years of modeling[the smell]
Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .

Tomick
#26 Posted : 24 August 2011 09:54:19

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riff-raff wrote:
I am painting my hull with the supplied copper paint - Can I seal the wood with a water/pva mix?

Its not a route I would choose to take, the high water content of the mix will more than likely raise the wood grain, and the finish likely worse than applying the paint to bare wood.

daffy09
#27 Posted : 24 August 2011 11:24:16

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Hi shipmates
SANDING SEALER
A word of caution to the unitiated among us: when using sanding sealer - ensure the instructions are followed, i,e: avoid applying it in an unventilated area and use a mask if possible because its pretty toxic stuff.
That said, I believe it's an execellent product to use if one is going down the route of staining the hull as I have.
I would have loved to have copper tiled my build but "She who must be obeyed" pointed out that it would be a shame to cover up all my hard work, and now that I've finished that part of the build it has to be said that I'm inclined to agree with her on that. Well, at least I've saved myself £60 quidBigGrin. it's not being painted anyway, so the stained lower hull 'sits' better with the reat of the build.
happy building
daffy09
riff-raff
#28 Posted : 24 August 2011 15:16:03

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Sanding sealer it is then BigGrin
You do not need a parachute to skydive. You only need a parachute to skydive twice.

Built:
Golden Star, English Brig. RMS Titanic. (Academy 1/400 Centenary Anniversary Edition) Revell-Monogram 1/48 B-29 Superfortress 1:8 Baron von Richthofen's Fokker Tri-plane. HMS Victory. Nelsons Flag Ship. Sultan Arab Dhow. Artesania Latina Carmen II. The Battleship Yamato. Model Airways Wright Flyer 1:16 Scale. Trumpeter Bismarck 1/200. HMS Sovereign of the Seas. The Black Pearl.


Building:HMS Surprisel. Hatchette U96. Soleil Royal.
jase
#29 Posted : 10 September 2011 15:00:43

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I am now half way through tiling the hull!! I will show progress in my build diary once done. However I can give my view on some of the points raised above.

A. Overlap or but the tiles? I am butting my tiles for two reasons. 1, the quality of the copper is very good and each tile is quite thick, although this gives an advantage in resistance to damage it does mean that overlapping would make the tiles protrude to much, in my view.

B. Rivets? I am not simulating rivets primarily because it would be to difficult to do so with the thickness of the copper and may well ad a year to the build time!! Also all of my research suggests that the rivets would have been flat? so would not have protruded.

C. Adhesive? I am using PVA. I have used PVA for many years for securing etched parts and never had a difficulty. the advantage of PVA is the slower cure time and thick viscosity allows some positioning time. it also allows time to clean up the tiles with scotch brite rather than a wire brush. I will use some super glue for securing the odd corner on curved areas.

D. Time? well this is going to depend on how you work. just like laying the planking the straight runs can be chucked down at quite a pace i'm reckoning 30-45 seconds per tile. curved areas and shaping tiles will take considerably longer. I managed to put down a 20 row high pyramid in a about 6 hours.
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MWG
#30 Posted : 10 September 2011 15:11:10

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Thanks for the info JaseBigGrin Cool
MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.

Tomick
#31 Posted : 12 September 2011 12:27:00

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Part 1 of the copper instructions

http://forum.model-space....aspx?g=posts&t=2981
tom.ganc
#32 Posted : 12 September 2011 13:54:38

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Hello
Link doesn't work Mr. T
Could you check it please?

Thanks
StefanDV
#33 Posted : 30 March 2012 14:47:05

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jase wrote:

.
.
C. Adhesive? I am using PVA. I have used PVA for many years for securing etched parts and never had a difficulty. the advantage of PVA is the slower cure time and thick viscosity allows some positioning time. it also allows time to clean up the tiles with scotch brite rather than a wire brush. I will use some super glue for securing the odd corner on curved areas.
.
.


Jase, are you still happy with your choice of PVA?

My tile pack should be arriving in the next couple of weeks and from what I've been able to find on the net, we're pretty starved for choice in terms of adhesives here in SA (Unless one wants to buy the 310ml tubes ;)

So I suppose my choice is limited to
a. contact adhesive - the difficulty to apply this in small quantities, the stringiness and smell makes this a very doubtful starter

b. Gel type Superglue (Loctite?) - Don't know whether there will be enough time to re position the tile once placed or to rectify any mistakes

c. No-more nails type glue - ???

d. Apliphatic - ???
StefanDV
#34 Posted : 28 May 2012 14:03:36

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My copper tile pack finally arrived.

Anyone want to give me their opinion on my questions in the previous post?
Tomick
#35 Posted : 28 May 2012 15:48:35

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Have a read from post #125 onwards of this link

http://forum.model-space...posts&t=1911&p=7
MWG
#36 Posted : 28 May 2012 15:50:59

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Hi Stefan I will be using SERIOUS GLUE by EVO STICK (I am using this for fixing the brass etch on the HOOD) it works for me you only need a small drop and you have 3 mins to position it.

Loctite gel is also good one small drop in the middle of the tile. Regards Mike
MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.

StefanDV
#37 Posted : 29 May 2012 11:30:21

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Thanks for your replies Tomick and Mike.

I contacted Bostik and the only Evo-Stik products available in South Africa are "Plumbers Mate" and "Stick Like Sh!t".

Big thumbs up to Bostik SA, who actually called me to discuss my requirements and recommend a suitable product. Will see it I can get it over the weekend.
pierre50
#38 Posted : 29 May 2012 14:25:48

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Hi Stefan, good luck with the tiles mate!
Current Buid:
HMS Victory
Next Build:
Captain Cook's Endeavour Collecting issues
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Santa Ana
Bounty
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Mr.Quist
#39 Posted : 23 June 2012 03:37:48

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Not sure if this is the right post for my question, otherwise please move to the Historic discussion forum.

A little question about WHAT to copper.
Can't remember where, but I have reed somewhere that the keel, just the keel, of the Victory was NOT copper plated. The reason given was that the keel was often damaged when ships ran aground or stranded and it was therefore a part that was often replaced and did not need the valuable copper. Can anybody confirm or deny that? If that's so, I won't copper it on the model (which will save me an hour or two RollEyes )

Thanks in advance !!

Timm

edit: Found a post in an other plastic model forum, where some images show what I mean (Image 1, Image 2). The thing is called false keel.
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