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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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In terms of tiling the hull, the hull should be sealed or have a paint finish before tiling to give a sound base for gluing the tiles.
Metallic paint does not apply too well on bare wood, therefore you might want to prime beforehand, don't worry too much about the finish of the copper paint as little or non will be visible once tiled, but I can see your thinking on going this route.
You might want to try a couple of methods on some scrap before you tackle for real
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Joined: 25/04/2011 Posts: 165 Points: 471 Location: Glossop
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Tomick wrote:In terms of tiling the hull, the hull should be sealed or have a paint finish before tiling to give a sound base for gluing the tiles.
Metallic paint does not apply too well on bare wood, therefore you might want to prime beforehand, don't worry too much about the finish of the copper paint as little or non will be visible once tiled, but I can see your thinking on going this route.
You might want to try a couple of methods on some scrap before you tackle for real Thanks again MR T. Your adivece is sound and I will obay First Build HMS Victory and HMS Endeavour Also Krick steam boat "Victoria" Cheers Ivan (Ordinary Seaman) http://www.old-glossop.com
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 Rank: Vice-Master     Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/03/2010 Posts: 602 Points: 1,679 Location: Lincs
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I am painting my hull with the supplied copper paint - Can I seal the wood with a water/pva mix? You do not need a parachute to skydive. You only need a parachute to skydive twice.
Built: Golden Star, English Brig. RMS Titanic. (Academy 1/400 Centenary Anniversary Edition) Revell-Monogram 1/48 B-29 Superfortress 1:8 Baron von Richthofen's Fokker Tri-plane. HMS Victory. Nelsons Flag Ship. Sultan Arab Dhow. Artesania Latina Carmen II. The Battleship Yamato. Model Airways Wright Flyer 1:16 Scale. Trumpeter Bismarck 1/200. HMS Sovereign of the Seas. The Black Pearl.
Building:HMS Surprisel. Hatchette U96. Soleil Royal.
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You should be able to get sanding sealer at your local hardware store.
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 Or u can make ypur own by adding talcum powder to celulose dope works fine 4 me and reminds me of years of modeling[the smell] Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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riff-raff wrote:I am painting my hull with the supplied copper paint - Can I seal the wood with a water/pva mix?
Its not a route I would choose to take, the high water content of the mix will more than likely raise the wood grain, and the finish likely worse than applying the paint to bare wood.
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 Rank: Master       Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/07/2010 Posts: 1,036 Points: 3,086 Location: Thetford, Norfolk, UK
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Hi shipmates SANDING SEALER A word of caution to the unitiated among us: when using sanding sealer - ensure the instructions are followed, i,e: avoid applying it in an unventilated area and use a mask if possible because its pretty toxic stuff. That said, I believe it's an execellent product to use if one is going down the route of staining the hull as I have. I would have loved to have copper tiled my build but "She who must be obeyed" pointed out that it would be a shame to cover up all my hard work, and now that I've finished that part of the build it has to be said that I'm inclined to agree with her on that. Well, at least I've saved myself £60 quid . it's not being painted anyway, so the stained lower hull 'sits' better with the reat of the build. happy building daffy09
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 Rank: Vice-Master     Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/03/2010 Posts: 602 Points: 1,679 Location: Lincs
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Sanding sealer it is then You do not need a parachute to skydive. You only need a parachute to skydive twice.
Built: Golden Star, English Brig. RMS Titanic. (Academy 1/400 Centenary Anniversary Edition) Revell-Monogram 1/48 B-29 Superfortress 1:8 Baron von Richthofen's Fokker Tri-plane. HMS Victory. Nelsons Flag Ship. Sultan Arab Dhow. Artesania Latina Carmen II. The Battleship Yamato. Model Airways Wright Flyer 1:16 Scale. Trumpeter Bismarck 1/200. HMS Sovereign of the Seas. The Black Pearl.
Building:HMS Surprisel. Hatchette U96. Soleil Royal.
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I am now half way through tiling the hull!! I will show progress in my build diary once done. However I can give my view on some of the points raised above. A. Overlap or but the tiles? I am butting my tiles for two reasons. 1, the quality of the copper is very good and each tile is quite thick, although this gives an advantage in resistance to damage it does mean that overlapping would make the tiles protrude to much, in my view. B. Rivets? I am not simulating rivets primarily because it would be to difficult to do so with the thickness of the copper and may well ad a year to the build time!! Also all of my research suggests that the rivets would have been flat? so would not have protruded. C. Adhesive? I am using PVA. I have used PVA for many years for securing etched parts and never had a difficulty. the advantage of PVA is the slower cure time and thick viscosity allows some positioning time. it also allows time to clean up the tiles with scotch brite rather than a wire brush. I will use some super glue for securing the odd corner on curved areas. D. Time? well this is going to depend on how you work. just like laying the planking the straight runs can be chucked down at quite a pace i'm reckoning 30-45 seconds per tile. curved areas and shaping tiles will take considerably longer. I managed to put down a 20 row high pyramid in a about 6 hours. “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.” -Mark Twain
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 Rank: Super-Elite      Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/04/2010 Posts: 5,787 Points: 17,662 Location: Stafford, United Kingdom
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Thanks for the info Jase MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Joined: 25/03/2010 Posts: 472 Points: 1,357 Location: Hyde
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Hello Link doesn't work Mr. T Could you check it please? Thanks
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jase wrote: . . C. Adhesive? I am using PVA. I have used PVA for many years for securing etched parts and never had a difficulty. the advantage of PVA is the slower cure time and thick viscosity allows some positioning time. it also allows time to clean up the tiles with scotch brite rather than a wire brush. I will use some super glue for securing the odd corner on curved areas. . .
Jase, are you still happy with your choice of PVA? My tile pack should be arriving in the next couple of weeks and from what I've been able to find on the net, we're pretty starved for choice in terms of adhesives here in SA (Unless one wants to buy the 310ml tubes ;) So I suppose my choice is limited to a. contact adhesive - the difficulty to apply this in small quantities, the stringiness and smell makes this a very doubtful starter b. Gel type Superglue (Loctite?) - Don't know whether there will be enough time to re position the tile once placed or to rectify any mistakes c. No-more nails type glue - ??? d. Apliphatic - ???
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My copper tile pack finally arrived. Anyone want to give me their opinion on my questions in the previous post?
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Have a read from post #125 onwards of this link http://forum.model-space...posts&t=1911&p=7
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 Rank: Super-Elite      Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/04/2010 Posts: 5,787 Points: 17,662 Location: Stafford, United Kingdom
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Hi Stefan I will be using SERIOUS GLUE by EVO STICK (I am using this for fixing the brass etch on the HOOD) it works for me you only need a small drop and you have 3 mins to position it. Loctite gel is also good one small drop in the middle of the tile. Regards Mike MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.
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Thanks for your replies Tomick and Mike. I contacted Bostik and the only Evo-Stik products available in South Africa are "Plumbers Mate" and "Stick Like Sh!t". Big thumbs up to Bostik SA, who actually called me to discuss my requirements and recommend a suitable product. Will see it I can get it over the weekend.
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Hi Stefan, good luck with the tiles mate! Current Buid: HMS Victory Next Build: Captain Cook's Endeavour Collecting issues Wish List: Santa Ana Bounty Santisima-Trinidad
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Not sure if this is the right post for my question, otherwise please move to the Historic discussion forum.
A little question about WHAT to copper. Can't remember where, but I have reed somewhere that the keel, just the keel, of the Victory was NOT copper plated. The reason given was that the keel was often damaged when ships ran aground or stranded and it was therefore a part that was often replaced and did not need the valuable copper. Can anybody confirm or deny that? If that's so, I won't copper it on the model (which will save me an hour or two )
Thanks in advance !!
Timm
edit: Found a post in an other plastic model forum, where some images show what I mean (Image 1, Image 2). The thing is called false keel.My build diary hereCurrent Build:HMS Victory
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