Hi Chris,

Thank you for your reply and information.

Yes I also use solder paint/paste and I agree especially on thin sheet parts. It is also a good way to tin items. However I do find with the paste that I use then it can leave a residue that needs more work to clean off.

The point with soldering and techniques is there are a few ways of applying heat and a range of solders and fluxes. Once you build up the knowledge then its a case of using the most appropriate for the job. You have obviously found a way that works.

regards

Dennis

D51 - parts et 11 - left side running board

The running board and brackets plus the side plates proved ideal for soldering. All the parts were first screwed in place on the boiler. Then each joint as you can see in the pictures below was fluxed and small pieces of solder wire placed in the well between the layers.
The method of soldering was as seen previously, to use the miniature gas burner (carefully). Until the solder runs into the joint. In some instances the addition of flux would be to be repeated.
The boiler was held upright or as appropriate so that I was working on the upper joint. Once all these were done then the boiler was reversed and the process repeated on the other side of each joint.
The side plates proved very simple to solder. Again using small pieces of solder wire and the flux followed by heating with the miniature gas burner. Although this is an ideal way of soldering and in particular getting the solder to run into the joint CARE must be taken it is after all an extremely hot flame.
Finally always be careful not to unsolder another part when heating the solder wire pieces.

regards
Dennis

Hi Dennis,
After reading your soldering tutorial, I finally gave it a try today on my Victory lanterns - to my surprise they joined perfectly. I have always avoided soldering brass as I usually end up damaging the parts, but following your techniques - I'll never have to use "stupid"(super) glue again!!!
Excellent advice.
Kind regards,
Garth

D51 Parts 13 cab

The window frames on the cab plus the cab tops were ideal for soldering but rather delicate especially the frames.
I have used small toolmaker clamps to hold the parts in place as I soldered (sorry the picture is a bit out of focus in places due to close up work).
The soldering simply followed earlier techniques on this posting by using liquid flux, small pieces of solder wire which were then carefully heated using the miniature butane torch. Capillary action did the rest drawing the molten solder into the joint or under the frames. Additional soldering was sometimes found necessary on the inside of the joints.
The cab floor edging was also an ideal candidate for the same soldering technique.
regards
Dennis

D51 Parts set 15 - Smoke deflector
This is another good example for soldering in the latest (parts set 15) of the D51 build. Both inside and outside frames were soldered in place on the deflector using small pieces of solder wire and liquid flux. The miniature gas burner was used for both inside and outside.
Holding the outside frame was helped by using small engineers clamps. Once the frame was part soldered the clamps could be removed and the soldering completed. The inside frame sat perfectly on the deflector. Again solder wire and liquid flux was used together with the gas burner. The initial soldering was accomplished with some care so as not to disturb the frame. Once some soldering was done then the rest could be completed without fear of the frame moving.
I have shown both inside and outside after soldering and after cleaning up. A small DOCK chisel was used to remove the small lumps of excess solder and then all the joints were cleaned up using 240 grit Garry Flex blocks. These are rubber blocks that contain abrasive grit throughout. They are very useful for following varying shapes.
regards Dennis

D51 Parts 24 - Ash Box
Thank you to everyone who has viewed my Model Making Know How on soldering. Since the D51 partworks set 24 has just been delivered it leaves just set 25 to come and then all the parts have arrived. The ash box in set 24 provides a couple of examples of soldering techniques. Although I am soldering instead of in the main using the screws often I have used screws or clamps to hold parts together as they are soldered. The ash box as with all the parts of this model were very well executed. The ash box is quite complicated so I firstly screwed it together as per the instructions. Then using the liquid flux/solder wire pieces sections of the ash box were soldered together using the mini butane torch. Once soldered the screws were removed and the rest of the side joints were soldered together. The screw holes were then soldered in using a 80watt soldering iron. I used two different melt point solders. The higher one being used initially and the low point when filling in the screw holes. I tend to use the liquid flux for most soldering work, applied by brush. Once the ash box was all soldered it was thoroughly washed to remove any residual flux. The excess solder was then removed with a combination of modellers Dock chisel, abrasive nail boards, 6" file and scotchbrite material in warm water. The completed ash box will now be fitted to the chassis and the paintwork can commence.