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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Nice work T 
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 Rank: Super-Elite        Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Really coming along now Tony, Brill  keep the pics coming! Steve
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 Rank: Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/02/2011 Posts: 2,236 Points: 6,828 Location: East Sussex
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Hi Tony Looking great I can see clearly this will be a model to be proud of I see you are covering part with balsa this with will make all the difference to the strength and help keep the shape to,the good thing is you will be abel to sand it down to the shape it should be. Regards Trev. Work in progress: Tombstone (Scratch) - San Francisco 2. -The Mayflower ( scratch by plan).
OcCre- Santa-Maria (Kit).
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/04/2013 Posts: 158 Points: 486 Location: England Cheshire
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Hi Trev,
I used mixed coverings as an experiment. Any future aircraft builds will probably wind up skinned with balsa. Ply gives a better surface finish, but the cost is huge compared to balsa, and as a pensioner I do have to watch costs to a certain extent.
Regards,
Tony.
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Rank: Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/02/2011 Posts: 2,236 Points: 6,828 Location: East Sussex
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Hi Tony, Reading your last post I have found myself that 1/32 balsa suit's my building and pocket as to the cost of ply, what I have to look out for with 1/32 is to make sure that the balsa sheet is in contact with all the ribs otherwise it will lift away and ripple causing the builder to suffer irregular brain patterns and not be connected with the matter in hand. What I do is to use sanding sealer and then cover with tissue and then clear dope seems to work for me,do you build the same way.Please keep sending your pictures in as I will be looking out for your build. Regards Trev. Work in progress: Tombstone (Scratch) - San Francisco 2. -The Mayflower ( scratch by plan).
OcCre- Santa-Maria (Kit).
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/04/2013 Posts: 158 Points: 486 Location: England Cheshire
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Hi Trev,
This is my first wooden aircraft build, so I am feeling my way quite a bit. I first started what I call real modelling when I lived in the States. I used to scratch build and kit build structures for a friend's model railroad. My pride and joy was a scratch built truss girder bridge made from plastruct.
I moved back to England in 1999, and did no modelling until 2007 when I built the Hachette Bismarck. This was followed by the DeAgostini Victory in 2010 and the cross section in 2013. I am presently building a Mississippi stern wheeler, I am doing a build diary in members ship builds.
I will be picking up some sanding sealer tomorrow, but I don't think I will use tissue and dope this time.
Regards,
Tony.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/04/2013 Posts: 158 Points: 486 Location: England Cheshire
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Hello All, A lot of time has been spent on glazing the crew compartment, much wasted. The photo shows the current iteration which I am not satisfied with. I have started shaping a block of balsa to make a mold, when this is done I intend to place a sheet of transparency over it. I think the hot air from a hair drier should soften the plastic without destroying its transparency, and with luck that will be problem solved. A coat of paint has been added to the stbd outer wing and the tailplane. I am using Revell paints No 59 sky for the lower surfaces, No67 grey green and No68 dark green for the upper surfaces. They will probably need another coat before finishing. More next week all being well, Regards, Tony. Tony C attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 13/02/2011 Posts: 2,236 Points: 6,828 Location: East Sussex
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Hi Tony, Looking at your build and plans it appears to be all ok it looks a lot of work and tricky to I'm not to sure what you mean about shaping a balsa mold and what it is for.As for the balsa covering on the wings,they look very neat and a great choice of colours to. All the best Trev. Work in progress: Tombstone (Scratch) - San Francisco 2. -The Mayflower ( scratch by plan).
OcCre- Santa-Maria (Kit).
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Hi Tony Looking great , I thought there may be problems with the greenhouse glazing as you need curves not flat pieces. The mould is a good idea but perhaps an electric paint stripper will be more powerful for your needs ,if used carefully regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/04/2013 Posts: 158 Points: 486 Location: England Cheshire
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Hi Andy,
I have done most of the canopy with a hair drier, but I think the front glazing will need a bit more oomph. There is a tool hire place not far from home, so I think I will check out how much a heat gun will cost for about 4 hours, and see how I go from there.
Regards,
Tony.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/04/2013 Posts: 158 Points: 486 Location: England Cheshire
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Hello all, I tried doing the front glazing with a rented heat gun, and promptly wrecked the forward part of the main canopy. I need to get some more transparent material, hopefully the local Hobbycraft shop will have some, or I will have to send for some. I have resorted to cutting and fitting the front glazing as can be seen in one of the photos. Everything with the exception of the crew compartment has been finish painted and decals have been applied. They are pretty glossy, so I have dulled them down with humbrol satin cote. I need to find some Arial letters, or else I will have to resort to hand painting which could spoil the model. Hopefully I will have completed the crew compartment by next week. Regards, Tony. Tony C attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/04/2013 Posts: 158 Points: 486 Location: England Cheshire
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Hello all, A follow up from yesterday, I bought some more transparent material and re-made the first section of canopy. I have fitted the above wing side pieces, and the whole assembly is now ready to be fitted to the wing. After fairing it to the wing a final coat of paint will be applied, and the stbd outer wing secured in place. I have included a photo of the mold I made for the canopy. If everything goes well I should finish construction in the next week. The only outstanding problem is finding suitable lettering. Regards, Tony. Tony C attached the following image(s):
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Looking Good
J“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Hi Tony looking the biz Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Fantastic Tony, love how the crew compartment turned out Steve
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/04/2013 Posts: 158 Points: 486 Location: England Cheshire
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Hello all, The crew compartment has been fitted to the wing and the stbd outer wing section glued in place. The propeller blades have been shortened by 50mm and re-shaped to look more like the original. A spinner and shaft was made and the propeller secured in place. The main undercarriage has been fitted and a tailwheel made and installed. Since the photos were taken, the crew compartment sides have been painted and a radio antenna and pitot tube made and fitted. Construction is now complete, I am having difficulty sourcing correct size and font lettering. I do not want to hand paint these as I am not 100% steady. If anybody else fancies having a go, I have the drawings looking for a home. Send me a PM and we can see about coming to an arrangement. Many thanks to all who took the time to look in and comment, and also all those who just looked in. Regards to all, Tony. Tony C attached the following image(s):
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Hi Tony. What a fantastic job you've made of her! Well done!! With regards to your markings, if you have a simple ink jet printer you can source clear or white backed A4 water slide decal sheets on ebay for just a few pounds. I used them to create a Victory nameplate and will probably be using them also on my MkIV tanks at some point. You can design the markings you need with most simple graphics programs, I used an ancient (14 yr old) Corel Printhouse package, trial and error on plain paper then print onto the decal sheet when everythings correct. Should be a lot easier than hand painting! Best of Luck with it. Robin First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
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Hi Tony Now that's a top job and she looks great regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/04/2013 Posts: 158 Points: 486 Location: England Cheshire
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Hi Robin,
Many thanks, I will give E Bay a try, arial bold is about right for the lettering, I just need to figure out how to get a 40mm letter.
Regards,
Tony.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2013 Posts: 4,604 Points: 13,607 Location: Monmouthshire UK
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Brilliant job Tony, looks fantastic Steve
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