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 Rank: Vice-Master    Groups: Registered
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Gandale wrote:John Passmore wrote:G'day George Finally got hold of some blackeninig fluid from a gun shop in Maddington. Sure enough it's called Gun Blue but actually leaves a nice smooth satiny finish as described by Stevie-o, black or bluey tinge depending on how light shines on it...  Got Issue 23 this week (not the missing Issue 21)...  The newsagent doesn't know how long before we see issue 21 so I'll just have to use issue 23 and rely on Mr T's narrative from issue 21, hope there will be enough planks if it transpires issue 21 is a permanent non-shower... Regards JohnP Hi George/John, Hope issue 21 shows up for you soon.. I can say however, that on completion of the first layer of planking I had a stack of bamboo planks left over, so even if 21 is a no show you should still have enough to complete the hull, providing of course you are not wastefull with the strips..... Hope this puts your mind at ease....  Regards Alan Hi Alan. Regarding planks left over re say issues 21-25. I think that what planking you were given in issues in the UK earlier in the piece was a lot more in contents re planks than what we are getting in the Aussie Issues by the sounds of it. This may have come about when UK members posted how many planks they had left over re the bamboo planks in the early issues? So Supplier may have cut down a bit.  It's not through wastage unless 3-5 cm lengths are wasted? I use some of the shorts for wedges as well. I'm out of planks again right now and just got issue 23 already used up. There's only enough planks for about 3.5 to 4 rows at most and that is if all planks are usable.  Will post pics of where I'm up to shortly. I'm doing that tricky bit at the stern so it slowed me down a bit waiting on glues to dry before proceeding each time. Many Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Where I am to date, Issue 23 used. I'm a little in front of issues re planking. Pics below. Tricky little area at the stern. I followed both Alan's and Tomick's builds this area best I could. Last plank laid only to rib 21 as run out of planks again. Last two pointed wedges and last plank laid needs to be cut off level with back of supports along with other planks when laid when I get more issues with planks in them.  Regards George. Building HMS SOTS
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Hi George, it is a tricky area but I think you have covered it extremely well..... Very well done, she is coming along a treat..... Regards Alan
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Gandale wrote:Hi George, it is a tricky area but I think you have covered it extremely well..... Very well done, she is coming along a treat..... Regards Alan Hi Alan. Thanks for your kind comments they are appreciated as always. If you do look in again shortly I have a query re planking. I'm pretty sure that rows 13 and 14 on hull are pointed strakes that help to straighten up the gap between hull planking and bow to stern planking. Could you kindly tell me where they start re rib numbers. With the slight curvature now in the hull planking they look as if they should start at around ribs 20 and 21 and then on to the bow only. Is this correct? I can't tell from pics showing these tapered strakes. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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 Rank: Super-Elite      Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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George Top class job on that stern planking. It's turned out a real treat. Happy modelling Tony Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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 Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 15/07/2014 Posts: 204 Points: 578 Location: Alabama, USA
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Hi George, Superb job on your planking I haven't started mine yet, and looking in on all these builds is helping to build my confidence when I start mine. Building - DeAgostini HMS Victory, McLaren MP4-23, Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa, Harley Davidson Fat Boy, Lamborghini Countach
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Hi George, I hope I understand your query correctly if not then some pics would go a great deal to help. Tapered strakes are necessary depending on where your next plank wants to lie without the need to force into position.... Where the plank wants to overlap the previous plank is where the taper would start, the taper would continue to the end of the plank.... Every build will be slightly different so it is difficult to say for certain where a tapered plank would start... You are correct though, you are now at the point where you will start to straighten out the curve to make the closing of gap a little easier and to avoid the appearance of the bow and stern planks looking cramped.... The magazine does cover how to close the gap very well however, if you need further clarity or if I have misunderstood your query then please get back to me..... Also don't forget, the planking your a applying just now will not be seen so use this phase to perfect your technique and by the time you get to the stage of applying the second layer you will already have a better understanding of the tricky area's and how to tackle them...... Hope this helps....
Regards
Alan
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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birdaj2 wrote:George
Top class job on that stern planking. It's turned out a real treat.
Happy modelling
Tony Hi Birdaj2. Thanks for looking in and your kind comments. Very much appreciated. I'm pleased to have had success with that section. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Ponty wrote:Hi George, Superb job on your planking I haven't started mine yet, and looking in on all these builds is helping to build my confidence when I start mine. Hi Ponty. Thanks mate for the nice comments. They are always appreciated. It's good you will have picked up all the tips and possible pitfalls when you are ready to start your build. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Gandale wrote:Hi George, I hope I understand your query correctly if not then some pics would go a great deal to help. Tapered strakes are necessary depending on where your next plank wants to lie without the need to force into position.... Where the plank wants to overlap the previous plank is where the taper would start, the taper would continue to the end of the plank.... Every build will be slightly different so it is difficult to say for certain where a tapered plank would start... You are correct though, you are now at the point where you will start to straighten out the curve to make the closing of gap a little easier and to avoid the appearance of the bow and stern planks looking cramped.... The magazine does cover how to close the gap very well however, if you need further clarity or if I have misunderstood your query then please get back to me..... Also don't forget, the planking your a applying just now will not be seen so use this phase to perfect your technique and by the time you get to the stage of applying the second layer you will already have a better understanding of the tricky area's and how to tackle them...... Hope this helps....
Regards
Alan Hi Alan. Thanks for your input on my query. It is really appreciated. From what you have described I get a pretty clear picture and can see the curvature that needs to be straightened to make it easier for planks to lay without being forced so will go it that way when the next lot of planks arrive. I've got one more row to reach where I really need to taper a couple of rows or the curvature will get bigger. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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George1 wrote:Where I am to date, Issue 23 used. I'm a little in front of issues re planking. Pics below. Tricky little area at the stern. I followed both Alan's and Tomick's builds this area best I could. Last plank laid only to rib 21 as run out of planks again. Last two pointed wedges and last plank laid needs to be cut off level with back of supports along with other planks when laid when I get more issues with planks in them. Regards George. G'day George I've got a little query. Should the first wedge piece (the one at the edge of the false keel} be flush with the false keel edge, or extend beyond it by the plank thickness 2mm? The keel is going to be laid along this edge at some stage and would perhaps need that slight rebate to sit in... Your stern planking is looking terrific - glad you're ahead of me so I can get some good pointers... Regards JohnP You
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Hello again George,
Re my previous query; I have just read issue 23 step 19 which gives the answer.
Cheers mate
Regards
JohnP
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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John Passmore wrote:Hello again George,
Re my previous query; I have just read issue 23 step 19 which gives the answer.
Cheers mate
Regards
JohnP Hi John. You need rather to look at Tomick's Official Build 31-35 post 4 pic 7 down and you will see clearly where the very thin pointed strake on the stern support piece and the wedge next to it and all the other planks on that stern support are cut level with the rear of the support and do not extend to the stern 2 mm overhang. You'll have to look closely to see that first very thin pointed strake as only just visible in the pic however it has been cut off level with the rest. By the way what I have shown in my pic is ahead of issue 23 which was our last recent issue and is issue 24 and into issue 25 but ran out of planks again.  Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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George1 wrote:John Passmore wrote:Hello again George,
Re my previous query; I have just read issue 23 step 19 which gives the answer.
Cheers mate
Regards
JohnP Hi John. You need rather to look at Tomick's Official Build 31-35 post 4 pic 7 down and you will see clearly where the very thin pointed strake on the stern support piece and the wedge next to it and all the other planks on that stern support are cut level with the rear of the support and do not extend to the stern 2 mm overhang. You'll have to look closely to see that first very thin pointed strake as only just visible in the pic however it has been cut off level with the rest. By the way what I have shown in my pic is ahead of issue 23 which was our last recent issue and is issue 24 and into issue 25 but ran out of planks again. Regards George Hi George Sorry mate, you misunderstood me. The area I'm talking about is right at the bottom of the false keel. Refer to Mr T's Official Build Issue 23 post 4 pic 4 clearly shows the stern infill wedges, but doesn't mention if the first wedge is beyond the edge of the false keel so as to form a little channel for the keel plate to sit in. Mr T's got a little skinny wedge on top and the second one is a bit broader but I can't tell if it protrudes above the edge of the false keel as shown in issue 23 item 19 and 20, which says to sand down level with the keel... Regards JohnP
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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John Passmore wrote:George1 wrote:John Passmore wrote:Hello again George,
Re my previous query; I have just read issue 23 step 19 which gives the answer.
Cheers mate
Regards
JohnP Hi John. You need rather to look at Tomick's Official Build 31-35 post 4 pic 7 down and you will see clearly where the very thin pointed strake on the stern support piece and the wedge next to it and all the other planks on that stern support are cut level with the rear of the support and do not extend to the stern 2 mm overhang. You'll have to look closely to see that first very thin pointed strake as only just visible in the pic however it has been cut off level with the rest. By the way what I have shown in my pic is ahead of issue 23 which was our last recent issue and is issue 24 and into issue 25 but ran out of planks again. Regards George Hi George Sorry mate, you misunderstood me. The area I'm talking about is right at the bottom of the false keel. Refer to Mr T's Official Build Issue 23 post 4 pic 4 clearly shows the stern infill wedges, but doesn't mention if the first wedge is beyond the edge of the false keel so as to form a little channel for the keel plate to sit in. Mr T's got a little skinny wedge on top and the second one is a bit broader but I can't tell if it protrudes above the edge of the false keel as shown in issue 23 item 19 and 20, which says to sand down level with the keel... Regards JohnP Hi John. Understand what you mean now. I leveled mine (sanded down) after doing in reverse with fat wedge top and skinny wedge under. It doesn't matter much which way it's done. In this area it didn't say to leave as groove on top of keel bottom. Only groove being that 2mm left as overhang down back of keel for stern post to go into later so I can't really help there as no one has picked up on mine being wrong re not having the groove you imagine should perhaps be there. I do understand what you mean and can see the sense in leaving a groove. I think on this one we'll have to wait till Alan or other experienced guys look in and can clarify. I don''t want to lead you astray. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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George1 wrote:John Passmore wrote:George1 wrote:John Passmore wrote:Hello again George,
Re my previous query; I have just read issue 23 step 19 which gives the answer.
Cheers mate
Regards
JohnP Hi John. You need rather to look at Tomick's Official Build 31-35 post 4 pic 7 down and you will see clearly where the very thin pointed strake on the stern support piece and the wedge next to it and all the other planks on that stern support are cut level with the rear of the support and do not extend to the stern 2 mm overhang. You'll have to look closely to see that first very thin pointed strake as only just visible in the pic however it has been cut off level with the rest. By the way what I have shown in my pic is ahead of issue 23 which was our last recent issue and is issue 24 and into issue 25 but ran out of planks again. Regards George Hi George Sorry mate, you misunderstood me. The area I'm talking about is right at the bottom of the false keel. Refer to Mr T's Official Build Issue 23 post 4 pic 4 clearly shows the stern infill wedges, but doesn't mention if the first wedge is beyond the edge of the false keel so as to form a little channel for the keel plate to sit in. Mr T's got a little skinny wedge on top and the second one is a bit broader but I can't tell if it protrudes above the edge of the false keel as shown in issue 23 item 19 and 20, which says to sand down level with the keel... Regards JohnP Hi John. Understand what you mean now. I leveled mine (sanded down) after doing in reverse with fat wedge top and skinny wedge under. It doesn't matter much which way it's done. In this area it didn't say to leave as groove on top of keel bottom. Only groove being that 2mm left as overhang down back of keel for stern post to go into later so I can't really help there as no one has picked up on mine being wrong re not having the groove you imagine should perhaps be there. I do understand what you mean and can see the sense in leaving a groove. I think on this one we'll have to wait till Alan or other experienced guys look in and can clarify. I don''t want to lead you astray. Regards George Hi George/John, the wedge pieces you are talking about at the edge of the false keel should be level with the false keel or slightly above... Does not matter which wedge goes first, important thing you are after is to ensure a nice smooth line along the top of the false keel ready for when the keel is actually fitted and a nice transition between the planking and the actual keel.... What you don't want to see however is any joint line between the keel and the false keel..... Hope this makes sense..... Should you need any more clarity then please get back to me..... She's looking good George..... Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Gandale wrote:George1 wrote:John Passmore wrote:George1 wrote:John Passmore wrote:Hello again George,
Re my previous query; I have just read issue 23 step 19 which gives the answer.
Cheers mate
Regards
JohnP Hi John. You need rather to look at Tomick's Official Build 31-35 post 4 pic 7 down and you will see clearly where the very thin pointed strake on the stern support piece and the wedge next to it and all the other planks on that stern support are cut level with the rear of the support and do not extend to the stern 2 mm overhang. You'll have to look closely to see that first very thin pointed strake as only just visible in the pic however it has been cut off level with the rest. By the way what I have shown in my pic is ahead of issue 23 which was our last recent issue and is issue 24 and into issue 25 but ran out of planks again. Regards George Hi George Sorry mate, you misunderstood me. The area I'm talking about is right at the bottom of the false keel. Refer to Mr T's Official Build Issue 23 post 4 pic 4 clearly shows the stern infill wedges, but doesn't mention if the first wedge is beyond the edge of the false keel so as to form a little channel for the keel plate to sit in. Mr T's got a little skinny wedge on top and the second one is a bit broader but I can't tell if it protrudes above the edge of the false keel as shown in issue 23 item 19 and 20, which says to sand down level with the keel... Regards JohnP Hi John. Understand what you mean now. I leveled mine (sanded down) after doing in reverse with fat wedge top and skinny wedge under. It doesn't matter much which way it's done. In this area it didn't say to leave as groove on top of keel bottom. Only groove being that 2mm left as overhang down back of keel for stern post to go into later so I can't really help there as no one has picked up on mine being wrong re not having the groove you imagine should perhaps be there. I do understand what you mean and can see the sense in leaving a groove. I think on this one we'll have to wait till Alan or other experienced guys look in and can clarify. I don''t want to lead you astray. Regards George Hi George/John, the wedge pieces you are talking about at the edge of the false keel should be level with the false keel or slightly above... Does not matter which wedge goes first, important thing you are after is to ensure a nice smooth line along the top of the false keel ready for when the keel is actually fitted and a nice transition between the planking and the actual keel.... What you don't want to see however is any joint line between the keel and the false keel..... Hope this makes sense..... Should you need any more clarity then please get back to me..... She's looking good George..... Regards Alan Hi George and Alan Thanks for both your responses and excellent clarification from Alan. I'm pretty right now. The only reason I asked is that as there is a 2mm deep channel formed by the garboard planks each side of the hull all the way to the bows, I thought the same configuration may have to continue through to the stern post... Thanks guys. Regards JohnP
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John Passmore wrote:Gandale wrote:George1 wrote:John Passmore wrote:George1 wrote:John Passmore wrote:Hello again George,
Re my previous query; I have just read issue 23 step 19 which gives the answer.
Cheers mate
Regards
JohnP Hi John. You need rather to look at Tomick's Official Build 31-35 post 4 pic 7 down and you will see clearly where the very thin pointed strake on the stern support piece and the wedge next to it and all the other planks on that stern support are cut level with the rear of the support and do not extend to the stern 2 mm overhang. You'll have to look closely to see that first very thin pointed strake as only just visible in the pic however it has been cut off level with the rest. By the way what I have shown in my pic is ahead of issue 23 which was our last recent issue and is issue 24 and into issue 25 but ran out of planks again. Regards George Hi George Sorry mate, you misunderstood me. The area I'm talking about is right at the bottom of the false keel. Refer to Mr T's Official Build Issue 23 post 4 pic 4 clearly shows the stern infill wedges, but doesn't mention if the first wedge is beyond the edge of the false keel so as to form a little channel for the keel plate to sit in. Mr T's got a little skinny wedge on top and the second one is a bit broader but I can't tell if it protrudes above the edge of the false keel as shown in issue 23 item 19 and 20, which says to sand down level with the keel... Regards JohnP Hi John. Understand what you mean now. I leveled mine (sanded down) after doing in reverse with fat wedge top and skinny wedge under. It doesn't matter much which way it's done. In this area it didn't say to leave as groove on top of keel bottom. Only groove being that 2mm left as overhang down back of keel for stern post to go into later so I can't really help there as no one has picked up on mine being wrong re not having the groove you imagine should perhaps be there. I do understand what you mean and can see the sense in leaving a groove. I think on this one we'll have to wait till Alan or other experienced guys look in and can clarify. I don''t want to lead you astray. Regards George Hi George/John, the wedge pieces you are talking about at the edge of the false keel should be level with the false keel or slightly above... Does not matter which wedge goes first, important thing you are after is to ensure a nice smooth line along the top of the false keel ready for when the keel is actually fitted and a nice transition between the planking and the actual keel.... What you don't want to see however is any joint line between the keel and the false keel..... Hope this makes sense..... Should you need any more clarity then please get back to me..... She's looking good George..... Regards Alan Hi George and Alan Thanks for both your responses and excellent clarification from Alan. I'm pretty right now. The only reason I asked is that as there is a 2mm deep channel formed by the garboard planks each side of the hull all the way to the bows, I thought the same configuration may have to continue through to the stern post... Thanks guys. Regards JohnP Hi gents, it would do no harm to have the wedge piece 2mm above the false keel as long as you have that smooth straight line along the full length of the keel... can always shape and trim back later when needed... Regards Alan
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Hi Alan and John. Thanks for clearing that up Alan. I could see where John's concern was and fully understood it seeing the detail in my mind for the query, but preferred answer from someone like yourself as I could have been wrong. Sorry I didn't use "Quote" for this post referring to details as getting too large. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Issue 24 all used up. I'm equal to issue 25 just be starting 26 when I get issue 25. Where I am to date. Pics showing straightening up slight curvatures with pointed strakes to make fill in easier. A wedge needs to go in re stern prior to next plank laid there. Hopefully next issue with planks will finish off hull.     Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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