OK on with the planking, after finishing the planking on the sides I next plank the stern and trim off all the access, this will make the joint stronger at the stern when the second planking is applied.

Started the second planking and decided to put in a stripe at the top, I`ve seen an old painting with this and also some models have it, after researching small boats looking for details on this build think we have pretty much a free for all on the colours, as you can see by the photo I use the same method, I glue the plank on the bow, leave to dry then glue the remainder down

Looking good Willz

Hi Wiltz.
Superp work.
Looks realy great.
Ian

As usual, sterling job there Willz. Really looking great. Your skills just seem to be getting better and better.

Hi Willz .
I would just like to say what a fantastic inspirational build you have done.
Best regards.
Mark

Thank you all for your kind comments appreciated, finished the second planking on the launch, at this point we can safely remove the internal ribs because the second planking has laminated the boats shape, as you can see by the photos I dont put in too many ribs, only enough to hold the shape, more at the front to form the curve, the boat is very strong with the ribs removed, this allows us the freedom to work on the internal details, etc.

Great work Willz
Regards
Alan

Simply fabulous....

Regards

Alan

Hi everyone, long time, had a break and now starting to get the itch again, not done much but having second planked most of the ship my thoughts concentrated on how to tackle the wales, I decided to have the wales in the stock type shape of the original ship, so here`s a set of photos showing how I went about it, not done the bottom one yet so only explaining how to cut the symmetrical one!

Its all done on a jig made from a scrap piece of 6mm ply.
First I cut a handful at just over the correct size then place in the jig overlapping the stop, this ensures that my first cut end is square and true.
Second twirl the piece round putting the trimmed square edge up to the stop and cut again, this gives us the piece at the correct length, (not going to go into measurements its all relevant to the individual scale)
next using the same piece of ply I made the jig for the angles, again place in jig cut once twirl round and cut again.
Using this jig method means you never have to change the fence on the saw to complete the stock shape piece, all settings are in the jig, I only cut enough for one side so when I want some more I just dig out the jig and if need be just set the saw fence into the saw cut thats in the jig, cheers