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Adam, I am just about to go out to work so this reply is brief but may help you decide your options. I had a problem with the height of the main deck leaving the gun ports too low so had to lower the complete deck.. The link will show you how I achieved this.. If you are looking to lower rib 7 then you may find this useful.... http://forum.model-space...sts&t=5013&p=80
Good luck, will be watching. Regards Alan
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/04/2014 Posts: 99 Points: 303 Location: Perth, Western Australia
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G'day all, I thought it was about time to post an update on the build progress and after hitting a hurdle with my problematic fwd desk section. But firstly, very many thanks to Marcel and Alan for providing sound advice to consider. I spend a few days mulling over my options to determine the best way for me to move forward and get cracking on with the build. In the end I decided on a slight variation to Alan's input. Thus, I set about raising the deck support at rib #5 & #6 and lowering it at rib #7 & #13. So, I removed the deck support beams and corresponding balsa support blocks that I had for ribs #7 & #13. Access to the balsa blocks were a touch difficult to remove with a hobby knife so I shaved them down to deck level with a 1/2" chisel. It was heart-in-mouth for a while as I thought I would slip and end up snapping a rib with my hands (or stab myself with the chisel and end up spilling some blood to the cause). Anyhow, the first photo shows the end result. Next I added a length of decking strip that I had left over from a previous build to the deck support beam at rib #5 and placed additional balsa blocks at ribs #7 & #13. As it turned out, the additional balsa were at the required height to take on the function of the deck support beams. So there was no requirement to install the beams for ribs #7 & #13. Although at rib #13 I did insert some small lengths of left over support beams between the balsa block and the rib. This was more to support the join of the fwd and mid deck sections. The second photo is the completed modification and the third photo shows the fwd deck section now sitting flush with the mid deck. Mid deck sections were then glued, installed and weighed / clamped whilst the glue set. This is where the benefit of the deck support balsa blocks really came into play. Although I do not thing that I will have that luxury when installing the upper deck sections. There were no deformations in the deck after the weights and clamps were removed, the section joints were square and flush but most of all I was more than happy with the end result. The dummy gun supports and deck are also painted. For me this was actually an enjoyable aspect to the build and it seemed to mark a definite milestone. I also forgot how much untreated timber soaks up paint and I ended up putting on two coats the same evening (may even need a third). This also provided a good mental note for the painting of the launch. I have a bottle of all purpose craft sealer that I will use on the launch as an undercoat. This is particularly noting that the launch hull planking is pretty thin with white & burgundy paint on either side. Just want to be sure that there is no possibility for the two paint colours to beep between the hull planks and bleed together. So, that's the main progress to date. Now it's onwards and upwards with the assembly of the stern pieces. Ciao, Adam AdamHall attached the following image(s):
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Nicely done Adam, great to see you managed to resolve your deck height problem... Looking good and now you will soon be starting to plank the old girl.... Keep posting, will be following... Regards Alan
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/04/2014 Posts: 99 Points: 303 Location: Perth, Western Australia
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Hi folks, The build continues at a steady pace. Main effort has been with the assembly of the stern assembly as well as chipping away on the launch. The assembly of the stern was fairly straight forward. I had to install a small spacer wedge at the bottom of piece #45 where it joins to #30. Also found that there was no need for a similar spacer at the top of piece #45 as depicted in the build diary. The stern assembly is a very loose fit when placed into the keel slot. This aspect I identified in one of my previous posts http://forum.model-space...mp;m=117119#post117119. Now it's time for inserting into place and there is still a fair degree of movement and will need some serious clamping arrangements to secure it into place. I also noticed that the top of frame #27 does not align with the deck extension #47, it actually is positioned below the deck piece (As shown in photo 3). This seems a bit odd at the instructions within Issue 16 (Step 12) has a layer of glue being applied to the whole rear edge. I have temporarily placed (dry fit) an offcut from a leftover die (As shown in photo 4). So, can anyone reading this let me know whether it is expected that frame #27 sits below the deck extension. I have tried to look at other build logs cannot find a clear picture of this particular area. Regards, Adam File Attachment(s): AdamHall attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/04/2014 Posts: 99 Points: 303 Location: Perth, Western Australia
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Hello again, Apologies for the different picture formats in my previous post. An error on my behalf associated with the resize of the pictures. The launch is now ready for painting. I have cut out the oar slots in different locations to that depicted in the instructions. The required location just did not seem right, particularly with their positioning with respect to the oar frames. I have included a photo that shows a mock-up of the cross pieces (bench seats?) that I aim aiming for in the finished build. I don't think that this will create too much of a problem when it comes to the final assembly. The placement of the small strips on the hull either side of the keel was a tedious evolution. I was not too sure whether the required 1mm strip was to be positioned flat onto the hull or in their edge. I went for the latter and this gives a look of two stabilising fins. I am also experimenting with different colour finishes for the launch that I am also the ship itself. I have a range of acrylic paints available in tubes from a local art supplies store. There is Antique White (in-lieu of Ivory) with Burgundy, Raw Sienna (centre) and Burnt Sienna (far right). It is great to see the launch coming to life. Regards, Adam AdamHall attached the following image(s):
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Lovely work Adam, coming along very nicely and excellent work on the launch too... As for the gallery, my build diary from page 16 covers the fitting of the gallery quite extensively and I too found the top of frame 27 sat slightly below the deck extension 47. Important thing is to ensure the gallery is fully seated in the keel slot and it sits level. Check also the gallery assembly and the deck extension form a right angle. If you also look at Mr T's official build diary, issue 16, pics 11 & 12 you will also see the top of frame 27 sitting slightly below the deck extension. Hope this helps however should you have any further queries then please get back to me. Regards Alan
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/04/2014 Posts: 99 Points: 303 Location: Perth, Western Australia
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Thanks Alan. Just wanted to check before I proceeded with the putting glue to timber. Further progress over the past few days associated with the installation of the stern assembly. It is finally glued in and secured into place. I had to raid the kids old toy box for Duplo blocks in order to make up a support brace for clamping the assembly. (I don't have a small enough square in my tool kit to fit onto the deck extension). Placed spirit levels in the middle deck and stern top to check that all was level. All is good so far, I hope. Now it is on to fairing the rib frames. Looks like a job for a fine day out in the patio. Hopefully this weekend. Regards, Adam AdamHall attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/05/2014 Posts: 912 Points: 2,773 Location: East Sussex UK
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Lego, what great idea. Building: DelPrado HMS Victory. Building: DeAgostini Sovereign Of The Seas.
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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Great progress, love the use of lego blocks to keep ot all square
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Hi Adam, some really nice work there.... From what I can see think you have got the fit of the stern gallery spot on... Nice idea to use the duplo blocks, have seen others use the same on their builds... .. Now down to fairing in preparation to planking.. do take your time with this task, check often to see how the strakes will flow from one rib to the next, the smoother the flow of the strakes the better finish to the overall shape you will get...... Will be following your progress so keep posting those pics.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/07/2014 Posts: 209 Points: 580 Location: Delecombe, Victoria, Australia
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You are doing an amazing job mate well done I love the use of the Lego.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/02/2014 Posts: 149 Points: 456 Location: Forest Lake QLD
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HI, I am very happy that I saw your post. I am still wanting for issues 15 & 17 (being on back order) but that has given me the time to check your work (very impressive. Now I know how I will complete the assembly as we have plenty of Duplo left over from the 'kids'.
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/03/2011 Posts: 65 Points: 187 Location: Bendigo Australia
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Best part of Lego it doesn't stick to PVA glue Previous builds Bounty, Cutty Sark, Red Baron Triplane, Bismark,Titanic,Endeavour http://jockspage.webs.com/
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Rank: Beginner Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 03/06/2014 Posts: 14 Points: 42 Location: australia
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Hi Adam. The Launch looks spot on. You're doing a great job. completed builds; Brig Perseverance, H.M.S. Bounty and San Marcos(almost)
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/03/2014 Posts: 516 Points: 1,563 Location: Perth Western Australia
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Hi Adam. Everything looking really good mate. You've done a great job on the ship as well as the launch. Looking very professional. Keep up the great work. Regards George Building HMS SOTS
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/04/2014 Posts: 99 Points: 303 Location: Perth, Western Australia
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G'day folks, It has been a few weeks since posting an update on my build, but progress is being made as seen in the attached photos. I decided to go with the balsa inserts, but only at the bow and stern sections. This was my first experience using balsa as inserts and as a result there are some lessons learned: - Balsa is not cheap - Have a few different thicknesses available on hand (I used 1.5mm, 6.5mm and 8mm). - A scroll saw is definitely a handy tool used to cut out curves and thus economise on the balsa strips. - Apply generous coatings of glue (in may case PVA) with a paintbrush to all surfaces. - Be aware that balsa swells slightly when applying glue. What was a snug dry fit will turn into a tight fit once glue has been applied. Fairing with balsa for me was another learning experience: - Old steak knives are great for trimming (and carving) balsa to a basic shape. - A b@st@rd file is ideal for obtaining a smooth final shape. (I was quite surprised at this discovery considering that balsa is a relatively soft wood. For this reason I had initially used a second cut file only to find that it only removed minute amounts of material and was not effective at all as a shaping tool). - Using the file as a scraper (direction of movement along the width) is more effective at removing material and obtaining a shape rather than drawing the file along its full length. - When using the file to shape the ribs, place a layer or two of making tape on adjacent ribs where you do not want material removed. Scraping the masking tape with the file is better than taking an unexpected gouge out from a rib section. - The laminates in the plywood are easily removed when you are not careful and when you least expect it (so have a bottle of PVA on hand to repair any damage straight away. - Do not use sandpaper on a sponge block when attempting to obtain a smooth shape on the balsa insert.(I found that this removed too much balsa and made a slight depression in between the ribs). - Fairing the last rib section (#49) was a delicate evolution, being wary not to damage the stern assembly ribs. A few bumps and scrapes were unavoidable. It has taken a longer amount of time than expected, but in the end, I am fairly happy with the net result. I can now say, HULL FAIRING IS NOW COMPLETE - Whoot, whoot. Onwards and upwards with the planking. Adam AdamHall attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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Adam A very neat finish to your balsa Infills. You will have a good base here onto which to start your planking. Happy modelling Tony Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette) COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 15/07/2014 Posts: 204 Points: 578 Location: Alabama, USA
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Hi Adam, Fantastic job on your Balsa fill ins. You really show the skill needed to do this. I'm impressed with the level of expertise you have in your build. Building - DeAgostini HMS Victory, McLaren MP4-23, Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa, Harley Davidson Fat Boy, Lamborghini Countach
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Nicely done Adam, fairing looks spot on.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/04/2014 Posts: 370 Points: 1,122 Location: Mandurah W.Australia
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Hi Adam Lovely bit of infilling there, looks absolutely immaculate - as does your ships' boat. Well done mate... Regards JohnP
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