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some of my reference material in addition to the abundance of material on the net. Modelmaker beware there is a lot of Olympic images on the net that get labelled as Titanic and there are differences.
OK so while cross referencing multiple instructions, I made a start on the base. The plastic bee is very large but the ideal hight for hiding the battery pack for the lights. first problem is dealing with the wiring for the light which incorporates a switch. the obvious solution is to get the wire into the hull trough one of the stand uprights so I drilled holes in the base and hull cradle.
still need to work out position for the switch
JaseFile Attachment(s): jase attached the following image(s): “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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I just want to raise an issue I have found with the Artwox wood deck. It has been designed to fit around the kit benches so no deck is present in these areas, whats more they have marked the deck as edged so it is wrong even if you try and fix it. After a lot of deliberation i have purchased a differnt brand that assumes etch is being used, i will compary the two once I have the new set. I have also just purchased a set of cad plans from Dr Hahn to help with accuracy its expensive but I want this to be correct and both the plans and spare decks are all resellable Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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 Rank: Super-Elite      Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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Dont you need a resistor attached to that LED? I think that LED will burn out pretty quickly if you are powering with 3v.I assume the LED is probably 1.5-1.7v rated.
Carl
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Rank: Administration   Groups: Registered, Forum Support Team, Administrators, Global Forum Support Team, Moderator, Official Builds Joined: 09/11/2012 Posts: 8,301 Points: 23,991 Location: East midlands
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Hi Jase Hit the link below and you can get pre-wired led`s (ie resistor fitted) and if you go for the 9-12v range you can use a small mains transformer that will save you the cost of replacing batteries. These are the ones I`m using on my Antanov 124 build. http://bright-components...s/Ultra_Bright_PreWired
Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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Thanks both for the observation. This is part of a lighting kit made for the Titanic and there are no resistors. Totaly new to lighting never done it befor, but I do have a set of resistors and a resistor board from an old liting kit i never used Any help on wiring greatly received Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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No worries.If you can show me how many LEds etc we can figure out a lighting plan. BAtteries are good if you have a few lights, but if you have a lot or if you are using LED strips like in the Falcon build you are better off with a mains transformer or you will drain the battery really quickly.UNless you are wiring the LEDs in series you will need a resistor on each LED to drop the current going through the LED so it doesnt burn out.
Carl
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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jase wrote:Thanks both for the observation. This is part of a lighting kit made for the Titanic and there are no resistors. Totaly new to lighting never done it befor, but I do have a set of resistors and a resistor board from an old liting kit i never used
Any help on wiring greatly received
Jase Here you go Jase, all you could ever want and then some.... http://modelshipworldfor...odel_ships%20anodes.pdf
You might also want to consider using fibre optics
https://www.smallscaleli...tQzUEAMYASAAEgJBjfD_BwE
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Tomick wrote:jase wrote:Thanks both for the observation. This is part of a lighting kit made for the Titanic and there are no resistors. Totaly new to lighting never done it befor, but I do have a set of resistors and a resistor board from an old liting kit i never used
Any help on wiring greatly received
Jase Here you go Jase, all you could ever want and then some.... http://modelshipworldfor...odel_ships%20anodes.pdf
You might also want to consider using fibre optics
https://www.smallscaleli...tQzUEAMYASAAEgJBjfD_BwE
Thats perfect thanks very much J “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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darbyvet wrote:No worries.If you can show me how many LEds etc we can figure out a lighting plan. BAtteries are good if you have a few lights, but if you have a lot or if you are using LED strips like in the Falcon build you are better off with a mains transformer or you will drain the battery really quickly.UNless you are wiring the LEDs in series you will need a resistor on each LED to drop the current going through the LED so it doesnt burn out.
Carl
I have leds and fiber optics i will post up what i have so you can see it all Big thanks “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Ok as promised this is the bits n bobs I have for lighting up the model.
So like I said I bought a light set designed for the kit, comes with no instructions whats so ever.
there are 20 white LEDs which are bagged as for the hull.
a bag of copper wire
4 orange flickering LEDs for the funnels that I dont intend to use (only three were real funnels anyhow)
just over 4 meters of finer optic and 1 connector for it. I understand I cut to length and bundle them all in the connector.
11 small whit LEDs marked for upper deck
and a battery pack
Now I also have a lighting set that was for a kit that got damaged beyond repare a few years ago
this gives me...
12 resistors
another battery connector and switch
another two small white LEDs
1 medium white LED
1 large white LED
a circuit board
a role of multicoloured white that can be separated
and a wiring diagram for the board
I also have small amount of wire to connect the switch to the battery pack.
at this point my basic plan is to mount the switch in the bottom of the base and run the switch wire up the stand support and through into the hull.
use the fibber optic for bulkhead deck lights and the LEDs for everything else
jase attached the following image(s): “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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OK the first question is whether you are going to use a battery or 9V power supply. If you are using single LEDS you can probably power 25-30 LEDS with a 9V battery.If you plan on having more LEds than that OR if you are planning on using LED strips (like the ones used in the Falcon main engine) you are better off with a 9V regulated power supply otherwise the battery will drain very quickly.
The second set of parts is from a Voodoofx lighting kit by Randy Neubert. The circuit port is a port driver.basically you power up the circuit board with you 9V input and then you can put resistors on the board and then wire your LEDs to the + and - sides of the board.This means you dont have to put a resistor on each LED because the resistor is on the board.
Randy usually gives you 2 kinds of resistor 220 ohms and 1.2k Ohms.If you use the 220 ohm resistors the LEd will be at 100% brightness.If you use the 1.2K Ohm resistors the LEds will be about 40% brightness.
Carl
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darbyvet wrote:OK the first question is whether you are going to use a battery or 9V power supply. If you are using single LEDS you can probably power 25-30 LEDS with a 9V battery.If you plan on having more LEds than that OR if you are planning on using LED strips (like the ones used in the Falcon main engine) you are better off with a 9V regulated power supply otherwise the battery will drain very quickly.
The second set of parts is from a Voodoofx lighting kit by Randy Neubert. The circuit port is a port driver.basically you power up the circuit board with you 9V input and then you can put resistors on the board and then wire your LEDs to the + and - sides of the board.This means you dont have to put a resistor on each LED because the resistor is on the board.
Randy usually gives you 2 kinds of resistor 220 ohms and 1.2k Ohms.If you use the 220 ohm resistors the LEd will be at 100% brightness.If you use the 1.2K Ohm resistors the LEds will be about 40% brightness.
Carl
Thanks carl Going to stick with batteries and not going to add any more LEDs at this stage. i think I will utalise the risistor board Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/03/2014 Posts: 2,975 Points: 8,517 Location: united kingdom
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Looking most impressive, I think I used 5 leds and lined the inside of the hull with tin foil to reflect the light within the model. Mine still sits unfinished on the top of the DVD cupboard, where it will probably remain till I'm pushing up the dasies Ken's the name modeling's the game.
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kpnuts wrote:Looking most impressive, I think I used 5 leds and lined the inside of the hull with tin foil to reflect the light within the model.
Mine still sits unfinished on the top of the DVD cupboard, where it will probably remain till I'm pushing up the dasies Time to brush it down and crack on I think. The black hull should stop light escaping but I will put some foil in the bottom to reflect the light. stopping the light from coming through the white plastic parts will be more of a challenge I think thanks for looking in. Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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I have pulled to gather a list of modifications from multiple sources so that I have a tick list and don't miss anything I also have a copy of the Hahn plans to mark up.
having gone over the plans and my other reference materials I marked up the hull with additions such as hawse hoes drain holes coming doors hinge changes.
Build of the starts with giving the whole thing a dust of Tamiya white fine primer to help se the detail and allow me to mark up alterations to the hull.
Drilling out the small scuttles was the first task. This includes adding the missing scuttles on the stern which were marked out using the Hahn Plans. There are also two hates holes that need adding to the stern, again referenced on the plans.
There is a lot to do before we can get to painting the lower hull
JasePictures of plans used with the kind permission of Dr Robert Hahn. jase attached the following image(s): “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Next I have turned my attention to the rudder, the kit part is correct in shape and size but the ribs are not and when considering primary evidence the rounded off edge does not look right either.
The kit part appears to copy the rudder after fabrication but prior to fitting and importantly prior to the ribs being sealed in cement.
see pictures below
https://vignette.wikia.n...atest?cb=20160224090515
these pictures show the rudder fitted
http://onebigphoto.com/t...er-and-propellers-1912/
https://www.pinterest.co...pin/168322104796625590/
https://commons.wikimedi..._TITANIC_in_drydock.png
I decided it was best to totally scratch build the rudder. Fortunately I have some very thick white plastic card the happened to be spot on for width. The shape was traced, cut out, filed and sanded down to shape. The finished rudder was placed on the hahn plans to mark out the positions of the ribs. it shows that the kit have oneposition slightly wrong.
The ribs are made from plastic strip sanded to shape. whats important is to note the thick end of the rib at the stern post, this is shaped to form a stop.
JasePictures of Hahn plans shown by kind permission. jase attached the following image(s): “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/07/2014 Posts: 4,269 Points: 12,713 Location: Scotland
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Nice work Jase  is going to be some build  regards Phil  COMING SOON =1/72 Italeri diorama`s Battle for the Reichstag and Stalingrad battle at the tractor factory 1/16 Trumpeter King Tiger with loads of extras ON THE GO= refurbishment of 1/25 Tamiya tiger 1 , amt Star trek kits and space 1999 models
So Much to Build,But What a Hobby!
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Looks good, nicely done... .. Look forward to seeing more.... Regards Alan
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the rudder is nearly done. the other 9 ribs are all compared to the first to ensure they are as close to it as possible.
The alignment is checked against the lines on the cutting matt. to make all the ribs took about 3 hours. the eyes the form the email part of the hinges were made up on the kit part then snipped of, these are perfectly usable as is the stern post which was also made up then snipped of prior to being fitted to the new rudder.
I did look at using bras rod for the rudder post but it meant further modification and filling where as the fit part will just need some filler and and sanding to the correct shape. pretty happy with the first bit of scratch on this build
Jasejase attached the following image(s): “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Will be well worth the effort, keep the pics coming
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