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 Rank: Vice-Master   Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/06/2010 Posts: 566 Points: 1,657 Location: UK
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Thanks once again for all your great comments. I have now fitted the running gear. Fairly straight forward altough there wasn't much in the way of location to keep items square, so had to be careful & fiddle a little. All sitting pretty square & nicely flush. Wilfy the Sea Dog attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/06/2010 Posts: 566 Points: 1,657 Location: UK
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The roadwheel assemblies are pretty nice. Each tire is made up from a sandwich of 6 pieces with the hub pushing into the centre. This gives a very realistic tread pattern. Wilfy the Sea Dog attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/06/2010 Posts: 566 Points: 1,657 Location: UK
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The road wheel is only dry fitted at present to check alignment. This is where I've come across my first real issue. As you can see from the pictures fitting the roadwheel is lifting the front running gear up by a few millimetres. Wilfy the Sea Dog attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/06/2010 Posts: 566 Points: 1,657 Location: UK
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I don't know if this is normal or not? Is it crying out for a weighted resin wheel? Will the tracks compensate? I have checked the positioning of the steering rack & all is as it should be. Any advice would be much appreciated.  Thanks again for taking the time to look. Wilfy
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,338
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Hello Wilfy,
Don't know how but I seem to have missed your last update on the 9th but your build is making good progress now and looking very nice, well done mate!!  
Regards the problem with the road wheel lifting the first couple of track wheels off the deck, I think most tracked vehicles if you look at them would have the wheels at each end of the track starting to rise up away from the ground if you know what I mean? NOT 100% whether it should be so on the SWS but it might be worth just temporarily fitting the track before going much further and see how it all sits? It might look OK with the track on and it might also be worth having a look on the 'net for photos of the real thing to compare yours against?? What does it look like on the colour artwork that comes with this kit?? If it looks like it is raised up each end in the artwork then chances are it should be that way and if you say everything is as it should be when fitted to the chassis I don't see how it could be wrong unless there is a design fault by the kit manufacturers or you've missed something??
Hope that is of some help, unless someone else can enlighten us??
Kev
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/06/2010 Posts: 566 Points: 1,657 Location: UK
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Found this link & it looks like they same problem, second picture from bottom (altough my gap looks bigger), so maybe the tracks will compensate somewhat. http://www.perthmilitary...atwall/gw_l3521d01.html
Wilfy
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/06/2010 Posts: 566 Points: 1,657 Location: UK
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Thanks for your comments Kev, Think I will make up some track & see how it fits. Can't really tell from the colour artwork. The linl I found makes me feel a bit better though and I'm glad I did find it as it looks as though the instructions may have you fit the gun mounting platform arse about face!  Thankfully they show the correct position & I do do trust the judgement of Perth Military Modelling, they are a very good site. Thanks again Wilfy
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,338
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Hello Wilfy,
Yeah, it does look the same on the link photos and though you say your gap looks a tad bigger, you need to bear in mind that your photos are much more close-up and directly opposite and horizontal compared to the other guys' photo? His is at an oblique angle from about 45 degrees above and to the side?? That might be why they look slightly less raised than yours??
I notice also that his track wheels all raise at about the same points as yours including the forward inner ones and it is only really the ones to the rear which sit tight to the ground, which again is the same as on your model?? As I say try fitting the tracks to BOTH sides so that the vehicle is level and see what it looks like then?? Can't really be sure unless it looks the same on a real SWS as opposed to looking at another model. If it looks the same on the real thing then it must be right I suppose? Sorry I can't give a more definite answer!!
Kev
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,338
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A couple of links for you Wilfy that I think show the real SWS looking very similar to the way that your model sits?? Some very useful photos for you on the first site!!:
http://www.pietvanhees.nl/sws/survivers.htm
http://www.wwiivehicles....any/half-tracks/sws.asp
Hope that helps??
Kev
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/08/2012 Posts: 104 Points: 312 Location: Brome Lake Quebec
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Wilfy I'm sure your build is fine. With the tracks installed whatever gap there is won't be visible and Like Kev says, probably reflects the real vehicle. Anyway the rest is looking terrific, I like the variation in wheel colour, I'm sure this would have been more frequent in real vehicles than most modellers think.
John
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/08/2012 Posts: 104 Points: 312 Location: Brome Lake Quebec
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I just thought of one more thing. In the real vehicle the weight of the front end would inevitably compress the front tyres where they touch the road. I have seen some modellers file a little off the bottom of rubber tyres and add a slightly bloated side wall with miliput, to simulate this effect.
John
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,338
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Very nice build so far! Not seen one of these kits before. In answer to your question about the road wheels, its an inherent problem with half track kits. In the real thing the front tyres will be loaded, allowing for the front to drop, but not that much. Also the weight of the vehicle and the suspension travel would allow all the road wheels to sit flat on the floor, except drive sprocket and idler of course. Unfortunately you do not get this with a plastic kit so the front road wheel will lift slightly. There are two options, fit the tracks slightly loose and see if they take out the gap, or as I have done before, use styrene blocks to lower the suspension slightly. You cant see them when painted and the body is on and does allow the road wheels to sit better. I think you will find that the tracks will hide most of the problem though. Hope this helps.
Dazza
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/06/2010 Posts: 566 Points: 1,657 Location: UK
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Thanks for all your comments & advice. Sorry not replied sooner, not been on here much as I have had some annoying virus (the human kind & not pc ) Better now though shall hopefully get some work done on the modelling front. Dazza & John, I also think a set of weighted front wheels would almost certainly solve the issue but I couldn't find any. I have messed a little with the suspension & this has improved the situation & I don't think it will be visible once tracks are fitted. Thanks for the links Kev they are great & will be very useful now & in the future. Hope uv all had a great Xmas day & that Santa has been kind to you! Wilfy
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Hi Wilfy Nice work she looking a treat,as for the sit problem it may be bereley noticeable with the tracks fitted or if you intend to put it on a diorama then this could be cured by sitting her in a French muddy farm track for instance regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/06/2010 Posts: 566 Points: 1,657 Location: UK
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Thanks once again for comments everyone. I've had a bit of a personnel debate about the merits of some photo-etch today. I admit it's great for some enhancements, but does it go to far at times? I spent ages today fitting etch handles on the doors of my SWS. Ok the original mouldings were just lumps, with no handholds but the etch propably takes it out of scale the other way with enormous handholds! I've put up a pic & they do look pretty nasty with the close up image but are much better to the naked eye. So how far do you take things? There's probably another 20+ of these handles around the side walls of the bed. I think unless you are after a Gold at Euro Militare you have to look at the merits of enhancements & do what pleases you, otherwise you'll never complete anything. Anyway, happy new year everyone & thanks for looking. Wilfy Wilfy the Sea Dog attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/08/2012 Posts: 104 Points: 312 Location: Brome Lake Quebec
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Wilfy I'm with you on this one. I am very sceptical about using lots of photoetch. I think the final finish and paint job are much more important on most models than the tiny details. I am a firm believer that a fairly simple but accurate, Tamiya type model, can be just as appealing as a hyperdetailed model if it is well finished.
John
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Hi Wilfy The etch debate hmmmmmmmmmmmmm I personaly prefere to use it, but like you say it can go towards the silly etch for etch sake or its on there so iv got to use it. Some etch I have bought in the past was so small you needed a microscope to see it and if you bothered mounting it ,it could barely be seen. I tend now to add the etch that makes a difference or can enhance the model, most of what's left over gets used up on other projects where it can enhance. I also think its partly down to the etch manufacturers as the more parts supplied adds value and price. As for your handles they look fine but iv yet to see an etch 'handle' of any description that's round as it would be on the real vehicle as etch tends to be the right shape but flat. My personal preference here is to use copper wire, there are several diameters available at Maplins or good old fuse wire and use the etch part as a template. Your model is starting to come together and will look great when finished and I hope I haven't been 'teaching you to suck eggs' as the old saying goes regards Andy Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,338
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Personally I always use metal barrels when available, friul tracks, again when available and pe sets. But I do not use all the pe if I think the pe is over scale or the plastic part looks better.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/06/2010 Posts: 566 Points: 1,657 Location: UK
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Thanks again for your comments. Andy, you are right about the PE handles being kind of 1 dimensional, I agree that wire is a better choice. Seen a tool recently to produce handles of varying size from wire, a bit pricey though at £45.00! I prefer metal gun barrels also, haven't tried Friul tracks yet find them a bit pricey. No new photos to add at the moment, had a battle trying to produce the windscreen assembly from etch, there was so little in the way of contact area that I couldn't get it to stay together. It was quite a complex assembly using about 14 parts! I ended up sticking the very delicate frame to my cutting mat & couldn't remove it successfully even with de-bonder!  Ended up resorting to the kit parts, but they are a bit overscale, managed to save the etch wiper blades though so that's something. Trying to get the engine to fit satisfactally now, but is a bit of a struggle getting it all to align & sit correctly. I'll see how it goes! Thanks again all & happy new year! Wilfy
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/06/2010 Posts: 566 Points: 1,657 Location: UK
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Hi a little more progress & a few pics. The cab assembly is coming along. I decided not to fit the engine as there were too many problems lining it up & getting things square, so relegated to the spares box I'm afraid. Due to this I decided not to use the PE bonnet, it is very nice & would have used it if I was going to display the bonnet open, however the kit parts are more than acceptable. I sprayed the cab assembly overall in Tamiya XF-61 & then lightened this a little & sprayed the top of the bonnet & wheel arches to ad a bit of tonal variation. Thanks for looking. Wilfy Wilfy the Sea Dog attached the following image(s):
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