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 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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D51 Parts 03 use of brass rivet instead of M2 screw in side steps In post 26 I soldered the side steps in place and explained that I aimed to replace the M2 screw that would normally hold the side steps with a rivet. I obtained some 1/16" brass rivets and after cutting to length these were soldered in place. The rivet head fits the space left by the missing screw perfectly. Since the screw is missing where a checker plate type effect is present, soldering up the hole and blending in is not possible. In later part sets of this model other areas are similar, such as the running boards so the rivets will prove an ideal solution. I feel that the rivets look authentic. regards Dennis Dennis attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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D51 - parts 06 - 21/22/23
Parts 06 were straightforward. I have made extensive use of the hexagon headed brass screws. All the nuts on the suspension have been threadlocked in place.
I must agree with other postings that the quality of not only the parts but the packaging is excellent. In this the latest set of parts I was particularly impressed by the double packaging of the bushes and nuts.
I have not worked on parts 06\24 since I will leave the wheels and the motion gear until either the chassis is complete and painted or other parts can only be fitted once the wheels etc are in place.
Sorry but I have now moved all the images to posting 49 having now mastered presenting them as visuals.
regards
Dennis
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The screws look the business J “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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Hi Jase,
Thank you. Yes the hex screws are blending well.
Regards
Dennis
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 Rank: Super-Elite      Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/04/2010 Posts: 3,955 Points: 11,809 Location: uk
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.hi dennis your pics are not showing,you need to re-size them,I resized them to 800x 600,if anyone clicks on your links,it downloads them onto their computer,and then have to delete them,so some people won't bother looking at them,which is a great shame,they are excellent pics. Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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Hi Karl,
I resized all the previous images down to a resolution of 800 x but they still attached rather than appeared in the posting.
Since jpeg images are commpressed is the file size kbs important as well?
regards
Dennis
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/04/2010 Posts: 3,955 Points: 11,809 Location: uk
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the pics are generally under 1mb. Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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Following some communication and help from Karl.I am putting on the same set of D51 - 06 pictures as direct view rather than download. regards Dennis Dennis attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 04/04/2010 Posts: 3,955 Points: 11,809 Location: uk
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brilliant pics dennis. the best I seen so far,well done. Current builds: SotS, USS Consitution, San Felipe, D51 loco, HMS Surprise, RB7, Arab Dhow, Jotika HMS Victory Completed builds: HMS Pickel, Thermopylae, Mississipi river boat, Mary Rose, Cutty Sark, San Francisco II, HMS Victory x5, Titanic Lifeboat, Panart HMS Victory Launch, Hachette Titanic, Virginia Schooner, Endeavour Longboat. http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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That's much better Dennis, well done 
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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Tomick,
Thank you. Karl was a great help.
I suspect the images need to be limited on file sizes. Whilst 800x600 is the optimum resolution being a jpeg file some
degree of compression is also required. The image file sizes are in the region of 140kbs which was fine without losing clarity.
I appreciate that being easier to view will help.
All previous images now modified to enable them to be viewed.
Regards
Dennis
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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Parts 07 - Hornblocks Now that parts 07 have arrived I was able to start painting various components. The hornblocks needed to be black but how to hold them. In the end I found that a reshaped paper clip could be easily slid into the chassis groove. This held the two halves together. To protect the axle bearing surface I used a coating of liquid mask. The 2mm screw hole provided an excellent way to hang the hornblock using wire when spraying. I checked the castings over first removing any burrs with a needle file. The parts where clipped together and degreased. The bearing surface was then protected with mask. Once the mask was dry the hornblocks were airbrushed firstly with etch primer, then primer followed by an almost matt black. Once dry the clip was removed and the layer of mask easily removed. Slight removal of paint was required from the edges of the bearing surface using a scalpel. I have left the mask residue on one of the images so you can see the result. I will run a tap through the threaded holes to remove any paint. I will now follow up with the wheels. At this stage I am wondering how to prepare the motion gear, rods etc. I am not sure that paint can provide the correct appearance. I may try light bead blasting followed by matt lacquer. Any thoughts? Dennis attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Looking good Dennis.
I wouldn't go the route of painting the motion gear.
Tamiya and Mr Hobby (via MDC) do a clear metal primer, then topcoat with matt, semi or a gloss clear coat depending on the look you want.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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Hi Tomick,
Thank you for the comments and advice. I had decided that paint just seemed to look wrong. However it was more about getting the alloy to look right. I suspect matt primer will be fine.
regards
Dennis
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/05/2010 Posts: 233 Points: 708 Location: Leigh on Sea
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Bit of advice please...Iam going the minimul painting route ie just the inner wheel in Black...and I would like to put a bit of polish to some of the running gear and then perhaps seal ...I have read other comments about primer etc and the use of Alclad paints ...I have these but am not sure Iam applying them correctly ....may I ask what primer for alloy wheels what is best Black what is the Alclad sequence ie black ,,steel finish and what clear finish ....as I said I have read the threads ..but have a mental block as how to go ...any assistance appreciated...Dave C H.M.S Victory
H.M.S Victory X Section
H.M.S Surprise under the bench
D-51
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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Hi Dave,
I am also currently doing some trials on the motion gear on how best to finish it.
I want to achieve a finish that looks like bare steel which is generally how the rods etc where.
I have read with interest the information on finishes such as Alclad and have bought some but I am not convinced that paint is the answer.
I am currently getting good results by simply rubbing the surface of the rods etc with 1500 grade wet/dry paper. If the surface needs some extra flatting at first then 600/800 first may help but change to 1500 once the surface is acceptable. I suspect you will need to finish by rubbing in same direction otherwise surface may not look as good.
My aim is then to use a satin or matt lacquer to seal the finish.
Tomick in an earlier reply mentioned a clear primer which I now need to check out.
Hope that helps
regards
Dennis
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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Hi Dave,
Sorry I should of answered re the wheels. Personally I use an etch primer since paint does not adhere as well on alloy and brass.
Paint companies already mentioned like Phoenix Precision Paints, Essex list an etch primer.
For polishing of for example the wheel rims I have simply used 1500 wet/dry paper followed by rubbing/polishing with a chrome cleaner such as Solvol Autosol or Brasso. You need to degrease before painting. Polished parts will need masking off to avoid paint getting on them.
regards
Dennis
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 06/05/2010 Posts: 233 Points: 708 Location: Leigh on Sea
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Thank you Dennis...that was very helpful...I have tried rubbing down with arrange of papers from the Alclad kit and like the finish was not sure what to finish it with ie clear coat either matt or gloss...will look for some on line...I think with the Black areas I was not thorough enough with the degreasing or used a decent primer ...had as you say troubles keeping paint on ...have some Alclad primer so will try that if that does not work will get the Etch Primer ...ah well Iam retired so have all the time I need ...I Hope...I look forward to following your posts ...Dave C H.M.S Victory
H.M.S Victory X Section
H.M.S Surprise under the bench
D-51
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Looking really good Dennis, look forward to seeing your progress.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/08/2013 Posts: 184 Points: 567 Location: Runcorn
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Hi Alan,
Thank you. I appreciate your feedback.
Although I still have to finish the motion gear and wheels I am looking forward to set 08 which again features mainly brass parts.
Regards
Dennis
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