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forgotmylogin wrote:In the mean time, I have a Ducati 1199 Paningale and a detail kit (which is twice the cost of the kit  ) to look forward to in about 3 or 4 weeks time. Cheers I did Tamiya's 1199 Panigale S With the upgrades, well worth it and a cracking kit. http://forum.model-space...aspx?g=posts&t=16494
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 Rank: Super-Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 19/06/2013 Posts: 4,588 Points: 13,553 Location: West Yorkshire
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Nice work with the carbon fibre decals  shame about the paint issues, hope you get it sorted soon. Al
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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Sorry to hear about your issues stripping the paint but by the sounds of it you've sorted your painting issues Good luck when the new parts arrive
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Shame about your paint issues Dominic, but I hope you'll get back to this build sooner rather than later, it's too nice a kit not to continue with it?  
Kev 
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 Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
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Day 6
Step N/A
Good evening.
Well, Michel was correct, I can work on other areas while I wait to get the replacement parts, but before I get to that...Now that my airbrush arrived I wanted to do a little practice with the same colour I plan on using on the body...
So I swiped a lid from her fabric softener bottle and had a crack. This is the result of running the heater in my shed for about an hour before doing anything, and heating the primer bottle and colour bottle in hot water for a few minutes before using either. The pictures below don't show the in between steps, pre-sanding, wet sanding between coats etc, the first is the first colour coat, second is the second colour coat, and the third one is the result after the clear coat.
That will do me. Som on with the build.
Not much done from the actual kit, just the rear frame was primed and sprayed metallic grey, just the strengtheners need detailing in.
Following that, I decided to start putting together the brake discs. I won't go into details as it is pretty self explanatory. I did spray the discs metallic grey again (rattle can) after priming. I wanted the carbon-ceramic disc look as apposed to bog standard ones. In hindsight I wouldn't have taken the very simple exploded diagram instructions quite so literally, as I found after placing the tiny studs the centre piece wouldn't slot into place, and I had to gently "clip" it in section by section. Next time I will fit this peice before the studs. The centre was primed and sprayed titanium silver (also rattle can).
You can probably see I caught the disc on the one side, I will just have to touch that in later
Thats all for now, cheers.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Nice to see you back on this build so soon Dominic and nice work on the etch for the brake discs. Be careful using rattle cans, they are OK and can be better than brush painting but they only have one pressure (on!!) and need to be used in several light passes. Too close, too slow or too long in one spot can result in quite a heavy build up of paint. Once you have your airbrush problems sorted, I would decant the paint from your rattle can into and through your airbrush. Correctly thinned it will always give a better result than straight out of a can?
Nice work Dom, looking forward to your next update.
Kev
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 Rank: Vice-Master   Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/01/2015 Posts: 856 Points: 2,479 Location: Sevenoaks, UK
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Glad to be of service Awesome work on the brakes! Can't wait for more, it's a lovely kit and you're doing it justice so far :) Any images I post on my personal builds are free to be used and shared under Creative Commons Attribution license, which means you can do what you want with them, on the condition you mention I'm the author.
Happy building :-) http://www.model-space.com/gb/
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Official Builds, Administrators, Moderator, Global Forum Support, Registered Joined: 04/06/2011 Posts: 4,518 Points: 13,714 Location: ipswich
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ModelMania wrote:Nice to see you back on this build so soon Dominic and nice work on the etch for the brake discs. Be careful using rattle cans, they are OK and can be better than brush painting but they only have one pressure (on!!) and need to be used in several light passes. Too close, too slow or too long in one spot can result in quite a heavy build up of paint. Once you have your airbrush problems sorted, I would decant the paint from your rattle can into and through your airbrush. Correctly thinned it will always give a better result than straight out of a can?
Nice work Dom, looking forward to your next update.
Kev Hmmm... Not sure that I agree with everything you've said, particularly the last line. Airbrush paint is great for 1/43, 1/32 and 1/24 model cars but at 1/12 (or my scale - 1/8) an airbrush doesn't put out anywhere near enough paint. It will cover - eventually, and to get several good coats will take forever, apart from the fact you will have difficulty getting a smooth, even glossy coat on something between 15" and 25" long. Rattle cans DO need care so as not to flood the model but with practice, you can get far better results and far quicker, than an airbrush. I only build 'big stuff' these days and there's no way on this planet I'd attempt to paint a 1/12 or bigger, body shell with an airbrush. I have no doubt it can be done, and people here will say so but for me, 'proper' car paint rattle cans can't be beaten for quality of paint and that 'real' look.
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
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To schools of thought here, and I agree with both and both are valid.
On the defence of the airbrush, I think they will perform better than a rattle can, with the right airbrush, you have so much control over the paint. The mixture. The pressue. The amount of paint vs air flow...and so on. But they are messy, slow, require a great deal of cleaning after each use and so on.
On the defence of the rattle can, they are quick, easy, and certainly the best option for small, quick jobs. But as said above, caution does need to be used I think, more so than with an airbrush. It's very easy to flood a model, the spray has quite a wide dispersal too so a lot of paint gets wasted.
On the defence of decanting...yes it is something I plan on doing at some point however, in this particular instance, it was a relatively small job I was working on, and it's not something I have ever done before either, so I wasn't going to go through all the process of decanting, burning off and so on, for what was quite a small job.
I think at the end of the day though, when it is all said and done, it comes down to personal preference. One way isn't right or wrong, although I do tend to lean towards airbrushing being the superior overall, but again thats my own opinion.
Cheers.
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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roymattblack wrote:ModelMania wrote:Nice to see you back on this build so soon Dominic and nice work on the etch for the brake discs. Be careful using rattle cans, they are OK and can be better than brush painting but they only have one pressure (on!!) and need to be used in several light passes. Too close, too slow or too long in one spot can result in quite a heavy build up of paint. Once you have your airbrush problems sorted, I would decant the paint from your rattle can into and through your airbrush. Correctly thinned it will always give a better result than straight out of a can? Nice work Dom, looking forward to your next update. Kev Hmmm... Not sure that I agree with everything you've said, particularly the last line. Airbrush paint is great for 1/43, 1/32 and 1/24 model cars but at 1/12 (or my scale - 1/8) an airbrush doesn't put out anywhere near enough paint. It will cover - eventually, and to get several good coats will take forever, apart from the fact you will have difficulty getting a smooth, even glossy coat on something between 15" and 25" long. Rattle cans DO need care so as not to flood the model but with practice, you can get far better results and far quicker, than an airbrush. I only build 'big stuff' these days and there's no way on this planet I'd attempt to paint a 1/12 or bigger, body shell with an airbrush. I have no doubt it can be done, and people here will say so but for me, 'proper' car paint rattle cans can't be beaten for quality of paint and that 'real' look.
Hello Roy,
I take your point Roy and when it comes to spraying large areas such as body shells I would tend to agree with you, though some of the larger airbrushes with a trigger grip (usually labelled as spray guns rather than airbrushes) with a wide spray pattern would still be suitable and give a good finish in the right hands?
However Roy, you seem to have missed my point, since Dominic has used a rattle can to spray small assemblies such as brake discs, which are not between 15" and 25" long such as a full body shell, or chassis would be and in this instance, painting relatively small assemblies, I would always use an airbrush over a rattle can as I suspect most other experienced modellers would too?
Apologies for hijacking your build thread Dominic, not intended.
Kev
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/07/2014 Posts: 4,269 Points: 12,713 Location: Scotland
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Great start Dominic will be following   there are some really great car kits on the forum regards Phil COMING SOON =1/72 Italeri diorama`s Battle for the Reichstag and Stalingrad battle at the tractor factory 1/16 Trumpeter King Tiger with loads of extras ON THE GO= refurbishment of 1/25 Tamiya tiger 1 , amt Star trek kits and space 1999 models
So Much to Build,But What a Hobby!
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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Dominic Really nice start to your build. Its looking like having some fantastic detail. Hope it continues well for you. Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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That's a much nicer finish now with the red , looks like the heating of the shed before hand paid off
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
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Thanks Dave...it certainly helped, that and a mid-quality airbrush as well. Mt previous one was one that came with the compressor, which I am also beginning to think is a bit of a lemon. Will definitely be upgrading to one with a tank when I can...probably not during this build but certainly in the future. Thanks Tony, there is of course a lot more I could add to this but won't be, have to draw the line somewhere. Thanks Phil. The are for sure, that Cobra...wow Kev, it's perfectly fine, it's relevent so carry on. One thing though if I may, I wouldn't considor myself a new modeller, built my first plane (with help) when I was 6 years old. Ok the result of that was a disaster because the person helping me suggested I sit the parts in the window to allow them to dry...in the middle of August...back when we used to get blistering summers. You can imagine how that turned out  I am inexperienced with airbrushing I will admit though, but I am getting to grips with it quite quickly. Cheers
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Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Diaphram comps are bad news as they tend to pulse the air, a piston comp is better but has work hard and none stop and can also pulse. The only way to go is single or double piston with an air tank.
Your build is looking great
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Nice work on the disc's Current builds:-C57,Zero, Lamborghini Countach, Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon,Robi,R2-D2, MFH Cobra .
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
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Small update regarding the replacement parts I needed. I gave Hobbyco a call today as not had a reply to my email. The guy made me smile actually as he asked me for the item number and after he tapped it in and it came back with what kit is was for his reply was "oh dear, what happened" Price is a hell of a lot less than I was expecting, £13 in total with P&P, so will be ordering that on Monday...and possibly an additional sprue if my current attempt at scratch building the brake caliper tension springs fails...more on that later.
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That was a result, cheaper than replacing the whole kit!
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/12/2013 Posts: 3,982 Points: 11,974 Location: NY, USA
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Outstanding job on the brake calipers and great news on the sprue replacement
Carl
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Rank: Semi-Pro Level 2 Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/12/2016 Posts: 87 Points: 254 Location: Fife
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Day 7,8 & 9
Step N/A
Hiya guys, sorry about the delay in posting an update.
In between waiting on a delivery of primer and another jar of rosso corsa I was taking a look at the brake calipers, which were to be quite honest, utter tripe.
(Disclaimer: I took this idea from a build of this car I saw elsewhere on the net some time ago, but damned if I can find it again)
The detail in the molding was barely there, particularly for the caliper tension spring, oh, and they were back to front. The mounting bolts were at the front where they would have absolutely nowhere to fix onto.
So over the last few days I have set about modifying them. I haven't got pics of each step of this, I have only completed one, with a second sprayed. When I do the front two I will post more details on how I did it.
For now, here is just a before and after pic...
The inner surface could have turned out better, but that is extremely hard to see with the naked eye, so I am quite happy with the result.
Cheers
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