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 Rank: Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/03/2010 Posts: 2,065 Points: 6,295 Location: Gorleston-on-sea
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Whoooops!!!, well spotted on that one Colin, like you, I have used filler in the bow section, only balsa, but me thinks a bit of butchery to my loving workmanship is needed here to make way for that cannon port...  Thanks for pointing that one out Colin...  Current Builds: Deagostini HMS Victory: Deagostini HMS Sovereign of the seas. Completed Builds: Del Prado: HMAS Bounty: Hachette: RMS Titanic: Del Prado: Cutty Sark...
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 Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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I don't think its a major problem even if you haven't used balsa, looking at some pictures it could well be a closed hatch, so maybe ok.
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Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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I'm pretty certain that the two bow ports will have closed doors.
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Rank: Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/03/2010 Posts: 2,065 Points: 6,295 Location: Gorleston-on-sea
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Thanks for that Tomick, I will put a hold on any alterations until further into the build...John wipes the sweat from his brow...phew!!... Current Builds: Deagostini HMS Victory: Deagostini HMS Sovereign of the seas. Completed Builds: Del Prado: HMAS Bounty: Hachette: RMS Titanic: Del Prado: Cutty Sark...
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 Rank: Beginner Level 1 Groups: Registered
Joined: 03/04/2010 Posts: 7 Points: 1 Location: Edinburgh
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bit dissapointed with timber supplied for planking as i will be varnishing my model.clearly shows diffirent model on front of magazine.Tomick is doing a good job
but line of gun ports differ from model shown.I have had to send to cornwall models for walnut planking.worried about the line of plamking for future build.hope you all understand what I am talking about.Hope this can be sorted out soon as the cost to the build increases.Good building Jumbo.
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Hi All,
Here is how I am planing on doing my Gun ports. I will cut the holes 13mm instead of 12mm then using 1x6mm lime strip will line the inside of the gunport with 1mm over hanging the front. Gluing with thick super glue. Then sanding flush with the front. Here is the result. (the real victory seems to not have a lip on the gunport so I haven't added one.
 On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/03/2010 Posts: 498 Points: 1,522 Location: South Wales
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I'm hoping to create the recess, there is something about it that looks so right, but then again, it could also be so wrong, but that's what I will be doing. Ship Builds on the go
Yamato - DeAgostini Subscription - Highly Recommend This Model
AKAGI - DeAgostini Subscription - Highly Recommend This Model
RMS Titanic Lifeboat (Kind Gift from DeAgostini Crew)
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Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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That mock up looks really good, well done for that, I've looked over quite a few models and it seems it down to personal choice. Some have them some don't, if you feel happy to bash it a little then go for it, I don't think anyway will be wrong, historical accuracy aside its more of a representation of the Victory and your mate and family wont be picking holes in it.
I'm still undecided as to what to do, but this part of the build has to be as perfect as we can get, no changes later on..arghhh!!!
So time spent doing mock up's and chucking ideas around is time well spent.
I'll hopefully will get back in the tin shed this weekend and may even mock up an idea or two. But I will be going down the route of a recess/lip of sorts, I think it only needs to be no more than 1mm, at least to keep scale in mind.
As the wood planking is a massive 2mm any ideas of framing first would create a too bigger recess for the scale of the ship.
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 Rank: Vice-Master    Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/03/2010 Posts: 507 Points: 1,571
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That is correct Jack Sparrow, the only ones to my knowledge without the rabbit are the ones without gun port lids
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Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Zeptrader wrote:That mock up looks really good, well done for that, I've looked over quite a few models and it seems it down to personal choice. Some have them some don't, if you feel happy to bash it a little then go for it, I don't think anyway will be wrong, historical accuracy aside its more of a representation of the Victory and your mate and family wont be picking holes in it.
I'm still undecided as to what to do, but this part of the build has to be as perfect as we can get, no changes later on..arghhh!!!
So time spent doing mock up's and chucking ideas around is time well spent.
I'll hopefully will get back in the tin shed this weekend and may even mock up an idea or two. But I will be going down the route of a recess/lip of sorts, I think it only needs to be no more than 1mm, at least to keep scale in mind.
As the wood planking is a massive 2mm any ideas of framing first would create a too bigger recess for the scale of the ship. This where double plank would help!!! 
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Sorry guys this is the pic I looked at for the ports... Which shows none but looking better its bad lighting.... Ah well I will make a new mock up now....lol On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/03/2010 Posts: 215 Points: 617 Location: Blackburn
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Does this pic help for the gun port rabbets or whatever there called
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Well.........
Here is Mk2 of my gunport. I used 0.5mm strip this time. and double lined it.
Chris.... On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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my concern with the recess is having to do it from the front with no access from behind the gun port. double planking still seems the best way but i don't want to do that. I will play with some of the extra planking I now have “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Hi Jase,
I tried to do this in a way that I could do it without getting it from behind.
I managed without any problems doing it all from the front.
Chris...On the bench 1/350 Revell Tirpitz Platinum Edition (Pontos PE and Wooden deck) plus extra Eduard PE set and extra MK1 door sets.
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Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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 Rank: Amateur level 2  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/06/2010 Posts: 47 Points: 144 Location: Northfleet
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Hi All An intresting topic, this one. Zeptrader. Brilliant input on the framing aspect. I like the idea, and seen no problems with sufficient room between the planking, and the barrel supports. I realise that the framing would need to be parallel to the deck, which is something which could be lost or miss positioned by using the lining only method. Very accurate work indeed. Magpie. Your Mk2 looks the dog's dangly bits. Probably a lot more work as well, but I think it would be well worth it. By the way, thanks for your 'Build' links. Fantastic work indeed. I have a way to go before I get to this stage, but previously found that cutting out 100 plus gun ports and then having to line them was tedious, but it is one of the most important aspects for a great finish. One out of line stands out like a saw thumb. I may sit on my hands for a while and see how you lads progress, then decide later. A final point which I wouldn't mind some feedback on. Has anyone considered that the thickness on Victory's hull vary's from about 24" at the lower gun deck to 18" on the upper and quarter decks. Is it being too perfectionist to make allowance for this when lining the Gun Ports? My dimensions are only educated guesses, as I dont have scaled drawings (I checked as best I could through the 'Anatomy of the Victory' book). The difference scaled down would be approx 5 to 6mm linings up top, with 7mm lining at Lower Deck level. I will be painting the linings Red, and feel this may be noticable - perhaps not so much if doing the natural finish. See ya.  PS. Also, does anyone realise that Victory had three types of 12lb canons (Long, Medium and Short), and that the two 'Short' ones one the Forecastle are actually 8' long as opposed to the other two types, which were 9' long. 
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Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Hi OneEye Regarding the varying thickness I think it was mentioned here, the lower deck was around 5mm then going up the hull to 4mm then 3mm, your measurement maybe correct being 7, 6 and 5mm from lower deck upwards seems about right as well. One fact remains solid is they will need to be a little difference as we progress with gun ports up the hull. Quote:framing would need to be parallel to the deck, which is something which could be lost or miss positioned by using the lining only method As the pictures shows the sills would be made first with the use of a batten to gauge the correct position in line with the lower deck. Then a jig of sorts could be made to the correct size being cut and placed whilst adding the lintels, thus getting the correct height and following the angle of the deck. Sounds OK in talking the talk, BUT as with many things putting it in to practice is another world, especially if you've never done this before, like me for a start, that's why making a small mock up comes in handy, to see any pitfalls. I think what ever way is decided by the individual needs time and patience and I just know with all the discussion here we will come up with whatever method suits his or hers capabilities, and be a winner.
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Rank: Pro Groups: New Members, Unapproved Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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Ive completed my little mock up here - using the framing method. http://forum.model-space...s&m=16197#post16197
Not as easy as it seems, and we have to do how many gun ports?? 
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