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Issue 8:A section of the Hull and Deck details. Pack contents: Second starboard hull section, 2x Hull roller fairleads, Guide for bow anchor, 2x Anchor brackets, 2x Platforms, Screws. First job this issue is to build the first starboard sections of the hull. Taking the hull part supplied in Issue 5, fit it to the second hull section so that the raised screw socket fits onto the hollow socket and when flush screw together with the screws provided. fit this completed part onto the hull assembly, and screw together. Glue the bow anchor guide into the slot on the front of the deck. Next fix the two platforms in place, and then apply a little glue to the underside of the two roller fairleads on either side of the deck. The two anchor brackets are then fixed in place. Finally, glue the attachment points in place at the rear of the deck. Store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag. This completes Stage 8. CaptnBirdseye attached the following image(s):
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it is really coming along.Really nice paint finish on the hull.
Carl
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Issue 9:Gearbox for the Bow Anchors:2. Pack contents: 2x Cogs with shafts, Double cog with shaft, Cog with peg, Cog, 2x Shafts, Anchor motor, Switch, Screws. Taking the upper gearbox housing, one of the two shafts is fitted into the centre hole. The cog WITHOUT the shaft is fitted over this peg. The other shaft is then fitted into the hole at end of the gearbox, behind the previous shaft, and the cog WITH the peg is fitted over it, making sure the peg is angled towards the housing below. Holding the gearbox above your work surface, fit the shaft of the cog with the double gear into the hole on the other side of the cog. Next insert the two remaining cogs into the holes on the port and starboard sides, making sure that the splines goes through the housing. Taking the shaft supplied with Issue 7, attach the grey end to the anchor motor, and fit into the gearbox housing, ensuring that the sprockets engage with the cogs. The wires need to point upwards. Insert the switch so that the peg is to the left of the one on the cog. Fit the lower half of the gearbox housing and screw together. Taking care not to damage the fittings on the deck, feed the two anchor chains through the holes in the upper deck, and secure with screws. Glue the capstan head from Issue 1 in place on the shaft that protrudes through the warping winch base plate. Fit the capstans from Issue 5, red to port and green to starboard. Feed the anchor chains round the capstans and through the bow anchor brackets. Finally, attach the anchors to the chains. Store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag. This completes Stage 9. CaptnBirdseye attached the following image(s):
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darbyvet wrote:it is really coming along.Really nice paint finish on the hull.
Carl
Thanks Carl. She's beginning to take shape now
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Excellent update Gray and looking great too... Very well done.... Regards Alan
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 Thanks Alan, always appreciate your comments Cheers Gray
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Nice work on the forward deck section. Regards delboy271155 (Derek) COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"
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Very neat Grey. Had an email from custom hobby decals and they are kindly going to replace my faulty decals. Tony Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette) COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Thanks for looking in, and your comments guys birdaj2 wrote:Very neat Grey.
Had an email from custom hobby decals and they are kindly going to replace my faulty decals.
Tony Tony that's great news, thought it would be strange if they didn't Cheers Gray
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Issue 10:The Second Section of the Upper Deck. Pack contents: Second section of the upper deck, Barbette, Fore breakwater, 3x Vents, 2x Skylights, Hatch, Handwheel, 5x Skylights, Screws. The Barbette is fitted into the opening on the upper deck, aligning the four tabs with the four recesses. Applying glue to the four tabs on the underside of the breakwater this then sits into the recesses in the front edge of the upper deck. The handwheel is then glued into the hole directly behind the breakwater. Next, the three vents are secured into their corresponding recesses on the deck, followed by the two cross-shaped skylights. Taking the hatch, it is glued in place just behind the handwheel. The remaining five vents are then glued in place in the corresponding recesses at the very rear of the upper deck section. The next assembly can be a little tricky, because of the possibility to damage the parts already fitted to the decks. Using four of the screws provided, attach the front and second section of the deck together. I found the easiest way was to hold the sections in place by hand above the work surface, and then screw both sections of the deck together. Store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag. This completes Stage 10. CaptnBirdseye attached the following image(s):
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Issue 11:The Port Hull and Support Stand. Pack contents: Second port hull section, Hull support 1, Hull support 2, 2x Support bases, Screws. This is another of those very short sections. Attach the first port hull section from issue 4 to the second port hull section and screw in place. using the screws left from issue 4, attach to the rest of the hull. Fit the smaller of the two support brackets to one of the support bases. note that they have a front and back. Do the same with the larger support bracket and base. Once assembled, slide the second support base onto the hull. The side of the support labelled 'front' should be facing the bow. Slide it to the very end of the hull. Slide the bow support stand back from the bow, again the support labelled 'front' should face towards the bow. Store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag. This completes Stage 11. CaptnBirdseye attached the following image(s):
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You're certainly not hanging around with this Gray, keep the pics and updates coming..... Really looking good..... Regards Alan
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Looking excellent Gray, certaintly coming together very nicely. Mark Regards Markwarren (Mark) Admin
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 Thanks for looking in guys  Alan, you’re not wrong there but I’m just playing catch-up. It will begin to slow down soon Cheers Gray
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Hi Gray looking good ,you scratched your waterline a bit by looks,having seen your swastika on the front think I'll do mine now ,ordered the decals from down under.makes all the difference, cheers mick. Builds hms victory, suzuki gsx 1300 R hayabusa, honda C B 750, lamborghini countach L P 500 S, tamiya 1/16 rc full option tiger 1 tank, built, Mclaren M P 4 - 23. Occre london tram, Stash.airfix 1/24 mosquito. Diag Virginia schooner, tamiya 1/6 honda 750, tamiya 1/35 famo, tamiya 1/35 flak 88.
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 Yeah I’ve started the weathering a bit early  Caught it putting the hull together. Very easily done. If I can’t repair it I’ll order a new one. Glad that you’ve decided to go for the extra decal set  Hope you haven’t gone too far with the build that there’s either a lot of masking off or removal of parts? Cheers Gray
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Hi Gray it's only the bollards I'll have to take off ,easy enough ,and unclip the anchors so chains not in the way,I don't have facility to spray so be brush painted anyway,Vallejo do the scarlet red you used in model color, as well as air,so should be easy enough,cheers mick. Builds hms victory, suzuki gsx 1300 R hayabusa, honda C B 750, lamborghini countach L P 500 S, tamiya 1/16 rc full option tiger 1 tank, built, Mclaren M P 4 - 23. Occre london tram, Stash.airfix 1/24 mosquito. Diag Virginia schooner, tamiya 1/6 honda 750, tamiya 1/35 famo, tamiya 1/35 flak 88.
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Look forward to seeing it Mick  I.m sure you'll do a great job. Cheers Gray
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Issue 12:Gearbox for the Forward Gun. Pack contents: Cog 1, Cog 2, Gear lever mechanism, Hub, 2x Gearbox Housing, Cog 3, Cog 4, Smooth shaft, Splined shaft, Screws. Carefully turning the deck upside down, Cog 3 is fitted into the hole for the front turret. There is a small triangle on the cog, which needs to face the bow. Turn the deck over while holding the ring in place and secure with two of the longer screws. Insert the cog with two sets of teeth into the recess on the gearbox housing. Place the large cog into the other recess, cap with the hub, and screw in place. Fit the gear lever mechanism into place so that the peg on the cog fits into the slot on the mechanism. Insert the smooth shaft into the centre hole of the first cog fitted, then screw the other half of the gearbox housing to it with the screws provided. The gear lever mechanism then needs to be guided through the elongated opening on the motor mount for the turret, and secure in place with the splined shaft. Store any unused parts in a stage labelled bag. This completes Stage 12 CaptnBirdseye attached the following image(s):
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Hi Gray I forgot to mention in my diary doh,in issue 12 make sure the arm on the barrel elevation is fully extended ,before you attach the motor in issue 16,don't know why but when I tested mine in issue 18 the elevation gearbox jammed up ,the making sure arm was fully extended ,before putting motor in cured this ,cheers mick.  additional you may need to take the gear box off the gear to achieve this,best way to check before you put motor in is to use screwdriver in the cross where motor will fit to make sure it all runs smoothly before you attach the motor. Builds hms victory, suzuki gsx 1300 R hayabusa, honda C B 750, lamborghini countach L P 500 S, tamiya 1/16 rc full option tiger 1 tank, built, Mclaren M P 4 - 23. Occre london tram, Stash.airfix 1/24 mosquito. Diag Virginia schooner, tamiya 1/6 honda 750, tamiya 1/35 famo, tamiya 1/35 flak 88.
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