|
|
 Rank: Pro   Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
|
hi all, Just started to sand the hull and not sure how far to go,do i get all the marks out and planks level, or fill some of the uneven planks with wood filler. Here are some pics to look at, please advise as to how far to go.I know everyone's differ. I know I am a bit away from that but wanted to know how you guys done it.  Thanks rob sandnesspeats attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
 Rank: Master      Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/07/2010 Posts: 1,036 Points: 3,086 Location: Thetford, Norfolk, UK
|
Hi Rob,
It's looking good so far.
Being this is the first time I've tried something on this scale, my hull didn't look much different to yours at that stage. As a general observation,if you are going to be copper tiling the hull, then using filler would be an answer, although the hull still needs to be smooth so that there's no obvious lumps and bumps and the tiles have a good clean run.
But if on the other hand you'll be painting or staining the hull then more sanding is required. You'd have to be careful with the use of filler because some brands will show through the stain. However, you'd be surprised how much those 2mm planks can take in the way of sanding - you could try using a smaller width sanding tool on the more obvious areas and a finer grade also. One can purchase a special sanding tool that's designed to sand around curves and awkward angles.
Again, looking at your photos, just as an observation, you'll need to be careful around the stern - it needs to be 6mm wide to accommodate the stern post where the rudder attaches.
Hope this is of some help and keep up the good work
Happy building
David
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
|
Thanks for the advice David very informative, . It just seemed a lot to sand (never having done this type of thing before) but what if I wanted to stain or paint and needed a few parts filled with filler does it show up underneath the stain, just a thought. I will see when I have finished sanding eh!! Thanks again rob
|
|
|
Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/07/2010 Posts: 1,036 Points: 3,086 Location: Thetford, Norfolk, UK
|
Hi again Rob,
Yes there is a lot of sanding to do but - (and there's probably something wrong with me for saying this ) - but it was part of the build that I really enjoyed doing as the hull gradually transformed from a lot of separate planks into a thing of beauty with all those gorgeous shapes and curves gradually coming into being. I'm really glad I spent so much time on this part of the job, it's given me a great deal of satisfaction and I'm sure you'll feel the same when you finally step back, sweep up all the saw dust (or whatever it is they call the particles of wood that come from the sanding process) and see what a grand old lady she is.
Incidentally, talking of filler again, if you hang on to those sweepings, they can be mixed with the adhesive you used to lay the planks with, and used as a filler, giving you a filler that matches the colour of your planks exactly and won't look out of place when stained.
Keep it up and happy building
David
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
|
Hi David,I have a good idea what you mean,I am not the most patient of people but I have had to on this project.  . You pointed out about the stern post,I checked that and it is just about 6mm,thanks for pointing that out  . So will have to be careful on that. I did save a lot of the sawdust as I will probably need it. Great help thanks. rob
|
|
|
 Rank: Vice-Master   Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/01/2011 Posts: 865 Points: 2,410 Location: Cambs
|
just keep sanding pete. you'll know when you've gone too far when all you have left is a pile of sawdust. seriously it still looks like you have a bit to go. it's hard to say how much, but it took me around a week and a bit to get it how i liked it, a little bit every night. looking good though pete. however....................the real thing is nowhere near as smooth as any model. when i saw her last year the first thing i noticed was how uneven all the planking looked. Come on you Jimmies
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
|
saintsman123 wrote:just keep sanding pete. you'll know when you've gone too far when all you have left is a pile of sawdust. seriously it still looks like you have a bit to go. it's hard to say how much, but it took me around a week and a bit to get it how i liked it, a little bit every night. looking good though pete. however....................the real thing is nowhere near as smooth as any model. when i saw her last year the first thing i noticed was how uneven all the planking looked. Thanks saint,  Done a bit more last night and it is coming along slowly but surely. I was thinking of leaving it rough and ready,as you say the real thing looks uneven etc! That thought never lasted long though. ,even now mine feels nice and smooth and still a long way to go. cheers rob
|
|
|
 Rank: Elite Groups: Unapproved
Joined: 24/05/2010 Posts: 1,761 Points: 5,351 Location: London & Greece
|
The problem you will have is if the top surface of one plank sits below or close to, the bottom of the adjacent plank. That doesn't seem to be the case from your pics even though the surface looks a bit bumpy at the moment.
Use glue and sanding dust as filler for the moment and she how she looks when you are finally finished. I tend to avoid the chemical fillers if I can.
John
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
|
Thanks for the tip john, I think that is what I will do shortly after a few days sanding cheers rob
|
|
|
Rank: Pro  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2010 Posts: 141 Points: 426 Location: Worthing, United Kingdom
|
When I sanded my hull, I sprayed it with some Tamiya acrylic dull red. Once dry, I gave it a light sanding using a sanding block. Any paint left meant areas which required filling. So whacked on the filler, waited for this to dry, then another round of sanding. Again, a spray of the dull red, and another light sanding when dry. If there were any areas still filled with paint, then another round of filling until I ended up with a relatively smooth hull. Hope that helps. Be careful though, the wood can get quite thin and you're never really sure how much is left to sand through...
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
|
amipal wrote:When I sanded my hull, I sprayed it with some Tamiya acrylic dull red. Once dry, I gave it a light sanding using a sanding block. Any paint left meant areas which required filling. So whacked on the filler, waited for this to dry, then another round of sanding. Again, a spray of the dull red, and another light sanding when dry. If there were any areas still filled with paint, then another round of filling until I ended up with a relatively smooth hull. Hope that helps. Be careful though, the wood can get quite thin and you're never really sure how much is left to sand through... hi amipal I never thought of that Spray first the see how smooth it is,worth thinking about . That was what I was afraid of going too far trying to get everything level, just have to take it easy Eh!! thanks rob
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
|
Hi guys here again  I was wondering if anybody has used this stuff before(photo) as you can see from the photos I tried the pva and sanding dust mixed, very hard to sand off and does not look ok! not bad but!!!!!, might have mixed it wrong mind you. This wood filler (natural) looks as if it will sand better and smoother without going too far, just wondering. Looks like painting after all. I will try and get the pictures in order. What do you guys think, grateful for your input as usual rob File Attachment(s): sandnesspeats attached the following image(s):
|
|
|
 Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/04/2010 Posts: 5,787 Points: 17,662 Location: Stafford, United Kingdom
|
Hi Rob it is my preferred filler, great product you can get it in all differet wood shades, good choice. Regards Mike MWG BUILD DIARIES: HMS VICTORY, SOVEREIGN OF THE SEAS, SAN FRANCISCO II, HMS HOOD, HMS ENDEAVOUR LONGBOAT, HMS VICTORY X-SECTION, 007 DB5, NISSAN GTR, CUTTY SARK, RB7, AKAGI, BARK HMS ENDEAVOUR, HUMMER H1, MITSUBISHI ZERO.
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
|
Thanks for the info mike
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 07/01/2011 Posts: 399 Points: 1,212 Location: Penhill Estate, Western Cape, ZA
|
Hi Rob, I used woodfiller on my build as well. After sanding it, I gave it a coat of spray paint and that showed up another lot of imperfections so had to crack open the filler again - got a very nice smooth finish in the end. Just be careful of sanding away too much of the false keel, especially at the stern.
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
|
Thanks stevandv, I will be very careful cheers. Here we go again  rob
|
|
|
Rank: Master  Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/09/2011 Posts: 1,312 Points: 4,126 Location: Austria
|
Hi Rob! Like you i`ve just finished the hull and started the sanding process. So i follow your diary with great interest. I too use wood filler for the uneven parts of the hull. Looks very nice, what you have achieved so far! Greetings, Walter Greetings,
Walter
Present builds:
Revell B-24D Liberator 1:48
On the shelf:
Italeri "Fiat Mefistofele", Italeri "Moto Guzzi California", Fokker "Red Baron", Revell Bismarck, Revell Tirpitz, Arab Dow, Stage Coach, .....
Completed builds:
McLaren MP4/4, D-51 Steam Locomotive, HMS Victory, GWH F-15D Eagle, St. Stephen`s Cathedral (cardboard), Solar-powered paddle Steamer (little project with my son), HMS Victory X-section, "Geli" Phantom II (cardboard)
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
|
Hi Walter, Thanks for that. Nice to see that somebody is at the same stage as me. The only thing I am wary of is the stern, that has to be about 6mm for the stern post, I will keep posting pics as I do it. cheers rob
|
|
|
Rank: Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 08/07/2010 Posts: 1,036 Points: 3,086 Location: Thetford, Norfolk, UK
|
Hi Rob,
Thought you might be interested in what I did to solve the problem at the stern in area around the false keel as I had the same problem as you after being over-jealous with the sanding in that area. (In my case, I had sanded the false keel too thin to begin with, but what the heck, I'm new at all this and we're allowed to make mistakes aren't we )
The answer I came up with was to lay a second layer of planking over the first, using various lengths of off-cut planks which I proceeded to 'feather' in until they became a smooth run with the other planking and after more sanding to get the correct thickness for the stern post, the modification was hardly noticeable, the effect being as though I had added some extra 'stealers' at the stern. After three coats of stain and four coats of varnish the repair was imperceptible without very close scrutiny.
If you try this, make certain that you cut the (repair) planks to varying lengths following the lines of the curve of the hull in that area, and also, not too short (in my case, the lengths varied between 40 and 120 mm). The longer they are, the more naturally they will blend in with the main planking.
Hope this gives you some ideas to work with if needed.
Happy building
David
|
|
|
Rank: Pro Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/12/2011 Posts: 236 Points: 686 Location: shetland
|
My thoughts exactly about making mistakes etc!!!! Hi David, Great idea I will certainly do this if mine goes too thin, Not quite there yet It is still 6.5mm but haven`t finished sanding yet  I will have a look at your build. cheers rob
|
|
|
|
Guest (3)
|
US
