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Another Del Prado Re-Fit Options
sparks
#81 Posted : 20 August 2013 23:58:00

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I have also completed the fore castle hammock netting.



This was done in the same way as described for the waist area, but with a few different features. These cranes are mounted on a small platform outboard of the barricade.



There are some additional diagonal braces that I made from small brass rod.



There is also a gap at the forward end for the 68 pounder carronade to fire through.





That just leaves the hammock netting on top of the high bulwark at the aft end of the quarter deck to do, but I need to finish the running in tackle on the six guns before I do that.
Next update when that is completed.
Regards
Alan
England expects that every man will do his duty.
sparks
#82 Posted : 23 August 2013 21:29:08

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Gandale wrote:
Stunning attention to detail Sparks, love following your project.... Drool Drool

Regards

Alan



Thanks Alan Blushing
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Plymouth57
#83 Posted : 24 August 2013 20:51:56

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Fantastic work there Sparks, I love it! Cool Fortunately with my version, I've only got small nets to do on the foc'sl bulwarks and none at all on the poop! Flapper

Keep them coming

Robin
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
sparks
#84 Posted : 26 August 2013 21:36:14

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Plymouth57 wrote:
Fantastic work there Sparks, I love it! Cool Fortunately with my version, I've only got small nets to do on the foc'sl bulwarks and none at all on the poop! Flapper

Keep them coming

Robin


Thanks Robin,
Now I know why you went for the Jo Tika version BigGrin
Regards
Alan
England expects that every man will do his duty.
Hans
#85 Posted : 27 August 2013 15:49:01

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Beautiful job there Sparks, well done.
Rgds, Hans
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sparks
#86 Posted : 27 August 2013 21:18:32

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Hans wrote:
Beautiful job there Sparks, well done.



Thanks for your kind comments Hans.
Regards
Alan
England expects that every man will do his duty.
sparks
#87 Posted : 09 September 2013 23:11:47

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Hi all, been a while since my last post so thought I'd do a little interim post. You may recall I mentioned doing the "running in" tackle next, so this post deals with how I tackled the er, tackle.
Victory's gun tackles consisted of two 9" blocks, one single and one double. At my 1/100 scale, that translates to 2.25mm, that was the first stumbling block, blimey, two puns already BigGrin
I remembered from doing some gun tackles much earlier in the build that the smallest block I could find was 2.5mm for a single block and 3mm for a double. I spent some time re-searching the net to see if things had changed over the years but alas no, still the same. The 2.5mm equates to 10", just slightly over size, so as before, I used those. Below are the starting components.



Two 2.5mm single blocks, two small hooks from a photo etch sheet (not sure where it came from) that I've had for some years and three lengths of small rigging cord.
So that I could thread the cord through the blocks, twice for the "double" block, I had to drill out the existing holes to enlarge them, no small feat in itself Blink.
I started by making a loop and single knot in a small length of cord around the first block and while pulling tight, put a longer length of cord through the bottom of the loop and a hook at the top, tightening and doubling up the knot to secure. The longer length is also tied in a double knot. this forms the single block. The "double" block is made the same way but only a hook is fitted. A dab of glue on all the knots before trimming the loose ends. That gives you two blocks as below.



The long length of cord is then threaded through the "double" block, around and through the single block it is attached to and back through the "double" block.



Threading through these tiny blocks was made easier by using a "BigEye" needle.
For those of you not familiar with this, its a long needle split in the middle, (or two needles joined at each end Confused ) I got them some years ago,
I think from Micro Mart in the US, they specialise in small modelling tools.



As my guns and deck bolts are already fixed in place, I left the tackle slightly long, and after putting the hooks in place through the eye bolts pulled the tackle tight. The "double" block attaches to the gun carriage by the way. Excess cord was then cut off and tidied up on the deck.



Only another five to do Crying
regards
Alan



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sparks
#88 Posted : 02 October 2013 22:54:43

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Hi all,
Has been slow going recently, busy at work and a holiday since my last post. Finally completed the rest of the running in tackles on the six quarter deck guns and the hammock netting on the quarter deck bulwarks.





Hammock netting constructed as before, the main difference with these ones is the height, only about half the height of the other nets, probably because they are on top of the high bulwarks.









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Gandale
#89 Posted : 02 October 2013 23:09:42

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Nice work Sparks and well described.... Cool Cool

Regards

Alan
stevie_o
#90 Posted : 03 October 2013 12:05:38

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sparks
#91 Posted : 03 October 2013 22:18:00

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Thanks Alan and Steve.
Just pondering on what to attack next, think it has to be the tackles on the knightheads and beakhead netting, while I'm in tackle and netting
mode BigGrin
Regards
Alan
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sandnesspeats
#92 Posted : 03 October 2013 23:37:17

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looking great mateDrool Smile Smile
sparks
#93 Posted : 04 October 2013 22:04:50

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Thanks Rob.
Regards
Alan
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MWG
#94 Posted : 04 October 2013 22:36:35

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You are doing a good job AlanBigGrin Kind regards Mike
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sparks
#95 Posted : 05 October 2013 15:23:57

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Thanks Mike.
Regards
Alan
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sparks
#96 Posted : 13 October 2013 16:55:04

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Hi All,
As mentioned in my post #91, I've been doing some research, and work on the beak head area.
The first thing I did were the eyebolts on the fore castle front rail above the round houses that will be needed at rigging stage.
It seems that only the outside three on each side are used, but from photos I have seen, there are five on each side, so that's what I went with.



I used the smallest copper eyebolts I could find, 2mm. I do have some smaller photo etch ones but was concerned they would not be strong enough to take the pull of the rigging attached to them. They should be mounted a bit higher on the top ridge of the rail but looked too big up there so I fitted them lower, I think once all the rigging is in place it won't notice that much.
I also added two eyebolts on the outer edges of the marines walk that will again be needed at rigging stage.

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Plymouth57
#97 Posted : 13 October 2013 17:17:12

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Looking great there Sparks, and nice to see the Marine's Walk eye bolt(s) in the correct positions!!Blushing

Keep them coming (and hurry up and get into the rigging so I can copy you!!)BigGrin

Robin
First wooden ship: The Grimsby 12 Gun 'Frigate' by Constructo Second: Bounty DelPrado Part Works Third: HMS Victory DelPrado Part Works 1/100 scale
Diorama of the Battle of the Brandywine from the American Revolutionary War Diorama of the Battle of New Falkland (unfinished sci-fi), Great War Centenary Diorama of the Messines Ridge Assault
Index for the Victory diary is on page 1
sparks
#98 Posted : 13 October 2013 17:44:03

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Next I made up and fitted the rigging and tackles that attach to the knights head post eyebolts, that may prove difficult to get to at a later stage.
There are six attachments in all, three on each post, and are all part of the standing rigging. The standing rigging is used to secure and hold masts and spars in place and is generally black in colour as it was covered in tar to protect it from the weather and possibly give it extra strength. Unlike the running rigging, which is used to control the ship,
once fitted, it stays in position, but does need to be tensioned up every so often, hence the tackles fitted to it.
The standing rigging consists of various sizes of ropes that need to look proportionally different from each other to achieve an accurate look to the model. The smallest of the six I am dealing with are the three Martingales, on the real ship they are 4 inch ropes, at my 1/100 scale, that equates to 0.323mm, unfortunately, commercial scale rigging lines are not made in 0.3mm sizes, but 0.25mm and 0.5mm, do I go up or down in scale ? A bit of forward planning is needed.
The largest rope on the ship is the Main Stay at 19 inches, that conveniently equates to 1.535mm, they make 1.5mm rigging lines, so that will be spot on. Everything else needs to be proportionally smaller, so lets see how it would work. the Main Preventer Stay, 13 inches (1.050mm), great 1mm will do. Fore Stay and Fore Preventer Stay, 18 and 11.5 inches respectively, (1.455mm and 0.929mm) at this scale I think I can get away with 1.5mm and 1.0mm again. Now we come to the next sizes down, two of the ropes I'm dealing with, the Fore Topmast Stay at 8.5 inches, that equates to 0.687mm and the For Topmast Preventer Stay at 6.5 inches which equates to 0.525mm, for these I can use 0.75mm and 0.5mm respectively, the largest Shrouds are 11 inches (0.889mm) so I can get away with 1.0mm there and everything will look reasonably proportional. So good job I didn't go up in scale for the Martingales.
They will be 2.5mm. The sixth rope I'm dealing with here is the Fore Topgallant Stay at 4.5 inches, I think at this scale I can get away with it being the same size as the Martingales, so I've made my choices.
Sorry this has gone on a bit but it shows that you need to plan ahead,
I know most of you are following instructions from your kit build, but the Del Prado kit did not have very comprehensive rigging and this post may help others in the same boat, pardon the pun BigGrin
Regards
Alan
England expects that every man will do his duty.
sparks
#99 Posted : 13 October 2013 17:51:43

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Plymouth57 wrote:
Looking great there Sparks, and nice to see the Marine's Walk eye bolt(s) in the correct positions!!Blushing

Keep them coming (and hurry up and get into the rigging so I can copy you!!)BigGrin

Robin


Hi Robin,
If you had hung on a minute, my next post #98 was with you in mind BigGrin
Regards
Alan
England expects that every man will do his duty.
sparks
#100 Posted : 13 October 2013 18:25:18

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Right, on to the tackles themselves.
The six ropes I'm dealing with had varying sizes and shapes of tackle blocks and a couple of different ways to attach the ropes to them.
Mostly they were seized around the blocks, that is, passed around the block and then the loop is held together with smaller twine wrapping round the rope to hold it together. Another method is the thimble, a loop made in the rope and seized as above around a wooden or metal ring that is then attached to the block with a hook.
I made the tackles in a similar way to the gun tackle described earlier in the build log, but as stated above used varying size blocks etc to best represent the descriptions I have of them on the real ship.
Below is the starboard side, where hopefully you can see the seizing around the blocks and the top tackle has the thimble method.



On the port side you can see the largest of the ropes, the Fore Topmast Stay (bottom attachment) that has a 24 inch (6.096mm) "long block" which, as far as I can tell was a large and smaller block attached together. To represent this, I used a commercially bought 7mm ramshead block and filed it down a bit.



As stated earlier these tackles were only used when the ropes needed to be tensioned up, and as in photos I have seen the loose ends were tied off around centre of the tackle ropes.
Regards
Alan

England expects that every man will do his duty.
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