Zeptrader wrote:Hi OneEye
Regarding the varying thickness I think it was mentioned here, the lower deck was around 5mm then going up the hull to 4mm then 3mm, your measurement maybe correct being 7, 6 and 5mm from lower deck upwards seems about right as well.
One fact remains solid is they will need to be a little difference as we progress with gun ports up the hull.
Quote:framing would need to be parallel to the deck, which is something which could be lost or miss positioned by using the lining only method
As the pictures shows the sills would be made first with the use of a batten to gauge the correct position in line with the lower deck.
Then a jig of sorts could be made to the correct size being cut and placed whilst adding the lintels, thus getting the correct height and following the angle of the deck.
Sounds OK in talking the talk, BUT as with many things putting it in to practice is another world, especially if you've never done this before, like me for a start, that's why making a small mock up comes in handy, to see any pitfalls.
I think what ever way is decided by the individual needs time and patience and I just know with all the discussion here we will come up with whatever method suits his or hers capabilities, and be a winner.
Hi Colin.
Apologies for missing the earlier posts. I have read so much over the last few weeks on these posts, that I had probably lost track. Although my question was originaly from my miopic view, I could have been sued by Dr Hook!! Sorry.
I have great respect for your undoubted knowledge of models
, despite your claim that you have not worked with static wooden boats before (PS. F1 models look the b******s!)
The work you have shown on the mock up's is impresisve to say the least - I wish I had the available time. I am now spending more time more looking at these post's (Particularly Lego Land Build), than fairing me boat!!
Two questions for you, if you don't mind :-
1. Are you painting, or staining? The reason being; your mock up showed black whales (understanderably) and 'yellow' planking with graphite markings to highlight the planking. What are you considering for the Lower hull (I am considering the painfull coppering job) and the Quarter Deck planking.
2. Do you think it is possible to place a 25mm x 25mm x 5mm thick (or similar)piece of balsa wood behind each Gun Port (glued to the outer planking as you go), then cut out a per Tomik's dimensions through the Balsa; then use the Balsa as a support to the appropriate linings required for each gun port. I suggest this for the following reasons:-
The Balsa is easy to cut compared to the outer planking. It is also forgiving enough to enable the right elevation to be reached on the lower sill (will anyone ever notice the upper one). A needle file will shape/profile in seconds, whilst leaving an even surface to secure a lining too. The recess can be obtained by using this method quite simply - I think.
I have never used this method, I am just wracking my brains trying to come to a plausable method which can be used for all on this build. What do you think?
One flaw that I think has been missed by everyone, is that the Gun Port is cut against the 'Rib Frame'. This will cause problems for the 'recess effect'. Not only that; the upper gun deck Ports should be directly above the Lower gun deck ports, with the middle deck staggered to give the checkered effect. the problem will re-occur here as well. Your thoughts will be much appreciated.
Cheers.
See Ya.
Alex
US
