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 Rank: Vice-Master     Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 938 Points: 2,823 Location: Milan (Italy)
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samson wrote:Hi Jack Beautiful work, you can be proud.  Cheers Jens  Gibbo wrote:Some really lovely detail there Jack.
Regards
Paul Thanks Jens and Paul, your comments are stimulating to update my diary. Thanks again. Jack.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 938 Points: 2,823 Location: Milan (Italy)
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Posted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 Here are the latest images, shot today Feb. 23rd, of the stern galleries. I have finally completed the installation of the windows wooden frames and I have applied the gold enamel where necessary. The work is finished at 98%, the only thing remaining is the aged look and feel. I have no experience about these techniques so I need to document myself and, once find one I like, make some tests and go further. Apart the aging, now I have to start working on some completely new things. The instructions give me several choices: from the poop rails to the head, including the figurehead, passing through the channels, deadeyes and chains. Another task can be the definitive installation of the guns. So I have plenty of choices to select and the only need is to find and dedicate enough time and efforts to achieve results. I hope to be back early with new things to show you. Jack. jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 938 Points: 2,823 Location: Milan (Italy)
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Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2008 As I said in my last message there is plenty of tasks to do on the model: in spite of my previous list I decided to build the side steps. Considering the huge size of the Santìsima Trinidad's gun decks also the side steps are quite impressive. The kit manufacturer instructions were to use two kind of stripes to build the steps: a mm. 1x4 stripe and a 2x2 stripe, both in sapele wood. I decided instead to change the kind of wood: boxwood for the 1x4 and walnut for the 2x2. Especially the boxwood was for me a very good choice. An important thing was the building process: I made a kind of sandwich made alternatively with a 2x2 stripe and 1x4 stripe glued together one over the other for six times. The new stripes, approx 12 cm. length, were then cut in small pieces of two different lengths (18 o 8 mm) and refined with sandpaper. The last task was to fix them on the hull sides with some points of glue, a final coat of matt transparent paint and . . . . the work is done ! Time elapsed two sessions of 1 hour and half. The first two images show the starboard side steps and the remaining two the larboard. In the last image you can also see the skid beams, for raising barrels, etc. and to protect sides against boat being raised, close to the steps. Kind regards. Jack.Aubrey jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 938 Points: 2,823 Location: Milan (Italy)
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Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 I don't have any new work to show you but I want to include two new images of the stern galleries, where I have now applied a coat of transparent paint, and to other images of the side ladders from a different perspective. Regarding the side ladders I have to decide about the color. Looking at some photos of the HMS Victory in Portsmouth, I have seen that these pieces are painted with yellow where the sides are yellow and in black on the wales. I'm thinking that also on the spanish ships this rule should be the same, so I'm considering to leave unpainted the ladders over the clear wood and to paint with black where they lay over the wales. Any suggestion ? Regards. Jack.Aubrey jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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 Rank: Super-Elite     Groups: Registered
Joined: 31/05/2010 Posts: 5,679 Points: 17,011 Location: Wiltshire
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Jack Some stunning work from you - looks brilliant. That must have been a massive ship in real life with its 4 gun decks - must have been a frightening sight to the opposing side. Happy Modelling
BUILDING: Hachette Spitfire Mk 1A, Constructo Mayflower
SUBSCRIPTION COMPLETE (Awaiting building): USS Constitution, Sovereign of the Seas, 1:200 Bismarck (Hachette)
COMPLETED: Porsche 911, E-Type Jaguar, Lam Countach
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 938 Points: 2,823 Location: Milan (Italy)
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birdaj2 wrote:Jack
Some stunning work from you - looks brilliant.
That must have been a massive ship in real life with its 4 gun decks - must have been a frightening sight to the opposing side. Hi Tony, first of all many thanks for your message and best wishes for a Happy New Year. Christmas is gone but I hope was a nice day for you and your family. Regarding Santìsima Trinidad, she was considered a mighty ship and, few times before Trafalgar she was modified into a four decker and defined as the bigger ship of the world. But she was approx 50 years old and in particular was a very bad sailer . . the high bulwarks make it not the best in term of seaworthiness and its manoeuvrability was poor. I posted some news about its history at the beginning of this topic. Cheers, Jack.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 938 Points: 2,823 Location: Milan (Italy)
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Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 Yesterday I have completed another interesting task: the construction of the poop rails. To achieve this (for me) good result I did not follow the kit instructions but I used a different method and different materials. First of all the small columns I used. They were not supplied by the kit manufacturer (the supplied was a brass rod to be cut at the proper length). The columns I used were a remainder of a previous kit (Le Mirage from Corel built by me 30 years ago). The first image shows these small columns. Second, the total number of columns used, I used more or less twice the number suggested by the kit. The last image is an overall overview of the ship. You can also see that I have painted in black a part of the side ladders. Regards. Jack.Aubrey jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
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Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008 A closer view of the side steps that I painted with black . . . To the next issue. Kind regards. Jack.Aubrey jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 938 Points: 2,823 Location: Milan (Italy)
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Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 Building the main mast channels Last monday I started to build the mast channels (I have found they are also known as chain-wales; is it right ?). First I started with the two main mast channels, then the mizzen channels and last the fore channels. Main mast channel: it's the bigger of the three kind of channels. The overall length is 135mm. and it is built starting from a piece of mahogany with a thickness of 2mm. The wood supplied for this task was very good and it was enough to me, for achieving a good refinement, to clean it with sanding paper of different grains. I followed the kit manufacturer instructions: I had to drill several holes for the chain deadeye/shroud chain places at the proper distance and position. The diameter of the hole(s) was of 1mm. But my main problem was the fear that the glue on the thickness of the wood was not strong enough to support the future manipulations so I decided to: - make 7 holes (0,75mm. diameter) in the thickness of the channel where - I have glued, with the cyan-acrylate, some brass pivots of the same diameter, leaving them prominent 4-5 mm; - I have then made the opposite holes in the side walls; - I have removed the paint from the surface to glue to provide the best support to glue; - I have installed the channel with vinylic glue and - a bit of cyan only near the pivots and - I let time to all to dry. Then I have applied the channel support brackets in the proper position and I performed the usual tasks to clean the piece from the glue excess. To complete the work, a coat of danish oil. I decided to use the danish oil instead of paint because it allows in the future to use without risks both vinyl and cyan glue. This work was done last monday; two days later the oil was totally absorbed by the wood and now it is totally matt and smooth like paint. The color of the mahogany wood, from the other side is greatly highlighted. The first image represents the starboard side main channel, while the larboard side channel is shown in the second image. jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 938 Points: 2,823 Location: Milan (Italy)
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Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 Building the mizzen channels Tuesday I started to build also the mizzen mast channels. Mizzen channel: it's the smaller of the three kind of channels. The overall length is 75mm. and it is built with the same mahogany wood of the others. The building process is exactly the same of the main mast channels; the only difference is that now I have used only four pivots due to the smaller length. The first image represents the starboard side mizzen channel, while the larboard side channel is shown in the second image. jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 938 Points: 2,823 Location: Milan (Italy)
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Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2008 Building the foremast channels Wednesday I started the building of the foremast channels. Fore channel: the overall length of this channel is 105mm. and it is built with the same mahogany wood used for the other channels. The building process is totally equal to the one of the main and mizzen mast channels; here I have used six pivots to strengthen the installation. The first image represents the starboard side fore channel, while the larboard side channel is shown in the second image. At the time I shot the images I had just finished to apply the danish oil, so the channels seem gloss. This is due to the fact that the oil was not yet absorbed by the wood. Today, after some days, the oil is totally dry and the appearance of the structure is the same of the others. jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
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Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 Here follow two images that anticipate the hard work I have done this last week on the prow area (figurehead, rails, cross timbers). In the next days I will write a more detailed report about the work done. Kind regards, Jack.Aubrey jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 938 Points: 2,823 Location: Milan (Italy)
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 Here are two detailed images of the head. The main improvements vs 15 days ago are: 1) the installation of the figurehead, this task will be explained in a future message, 2) the installation of the three rails (main rail, middle rail and lower rail). I made a lot of thinking on how to install these rails because it wasn't an easy task. At the end I decided to use the epoxy glue (two components to mix together before their usage) because I consider it the most powerful glue for this kind of situation and I had to temporarily fix the rails to their beams with very thick steel nails, later removed. I took a total of two days to install all the rails but the result is very satisfactory. When the glue was dry, I made the necessary cleaning tasks and I have applied a first coat of polyuretanic black paint as primer. Then, to follow, two coats of golden poly paint. jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 27/01/2014 Posts: 5,060 Points: 14,980
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Beautiful work as always Jack, thanks for sharing
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 938 Points: 2,823 Location: Milan (Italy)
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davetwin wrote:Beautiful work as always Jack, thanks for sharing Many thanks davetwin . . really appreciated, jack.
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 938 Points: 2,823 Location: Milan (Italy)
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Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2008 The Figurehead: the images that I'm here showing you are details of the Santìsima Trinidad's figurehead. The installation process: in theory the installation of the figurehead is very, very easy. You have only to 1) select the right glue and to 2) glue it in place. But for me this task wasn't so easy. Here is the reason: after the installation of stempost and knee of the head I accidentally broke it. This happened some months ago and I had to repair the broken pieces by re-glueing them and to apply some reinforcements to be sure the same accident cannot occur again in the future. The result was an increase in thickness of these pieces: the original thickness was 6 mm. and the resulting new was close to 8 mm. This made for me impossible to insert the legs of the figurehead in the proper place. So I had to work on the seat of the figure in order to make possible the installation. I had to properly carve the wood in that area until the figurehead finally fit in place. After that the work was easy. See you soon. Jack.Aubrey jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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Beautiful work, joy to see.... Regards Alan
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 938 Points: 2,823 Location: Milan (Italy)
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 The installation of the guns Once terminated the work around the head described in my last messages I started the final installation of 18 guns. The image here attached shows the work in progress . . I have installed two different kind of guns: 10 in the quarterdeck 8 in the forecastle (smaller) I have not yet installed the 10 obuseros (or obusiers) in the waist area simply because I still need to build them . . I have fixed the guns to the deck with four very, very small drops of epoxy glue. Before I installed near to each gun two ringbolts where to connect the breeching tackle. The image below shows the tackle not yet fixed to the ringbolts. The deck begins to become crowded !! jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Vice-Master Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/05/2014 Posts: 938 Points: 2,823 Location: Milan (Italy)
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Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 Two old images I did not publish before . . . jack.aubrey attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Super-Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/08/2010 Posts: 2,771 Points: 8,344 Location: Brighton
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Hi Jack. Realy stunning Build. Look forward to seeing More Ian Current builds.Hachettes build the bismark,HMS Victory, HMS Hood.
Finished Builds Corel HMS Victory cross section.
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