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Jase's beginners ship building tutorial. HM Schooner Pickle

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delboy271155

#101 Posted : 16 February 2017 06:33:32

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RogerThornhill wrote:

Very interesting to follow. Do you know if the model is available anywhere in the United States. I have done a limited internet search and have not found anything.

Thanks

Best I can find with a quick look, is a seller in the Uk that will ship to America (link below). If I find a US seller in the near future I`ll let you know. BigGrin

UK seller

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delboy271155
(Derek)

COME BACK GUY FAWKES "YOUR COUNTRY NEEDS YOU"

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Tomick

#102 Posted : 16 February 2017 08:33:32

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delboy271155 wrote:

RogerThornhill wrote:

Very interesting to follow. Do you know if the model is available anywhere in the United States. I have done a limited internet search and have not found anything.

Thanks

Best I can find with a quick look, is a seller in the Uk that will ship to America (link below). If I find a US seller in the near future I`ll let you know. BigGrin

UK seller

Regards
delboy271155
(Derek)

Caldercraft USA... http://www.caldercraftmodels.com/pickle.html

| | Edit by user: 16/02/2017 09:23:36 | Reason: Not specified

jase

#103 Posted : 25 February 2017 08:45:27

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Gun port eye bolts and pickle name.

The next job is to instal the cap rail. I would recommend drilling the holes for the cannon rigging eyes prior to this to make it easier to get in with the drill.

There are four eye bolts that need to be fitted to each gun port. The measurements given in the instructions are tricky to replicate easily. however the use of a template makes this an easy task. Using a piece of thin card or plastic card mark out the positions with a pencil and drill a hole through each point. then simply place the template against each side of the gun port and mark the positions of the eye bolts.

I used a .6mm drill for the holes. the hole needs to be 2mm deep. measure 2mm on the drill bit and then wrap some masking tape around the bit at that point ensure you do not drill to deep. The copper eye bolts then need to be trimmed to 2mm with a pair of side cutters.

before installing the eye bolts you will need to paint them matt metal black if using admiral paints. The paint will chip off easily if you do not prime them, this is best done with a clear metal primer that can be brushed on.

Important note. At this point you need to decide which gun ports you are going to position your 6 carronade at. bear in mind that the two ships boats are positioned on the starboard side blocking off two of the gun ports. At this point I would advise you do not follow the kit instructions which advise installing all the eye bolts except the top set where you plan to position a carronade. I would advise only installing eye bolts where the gun port will not be used. This will be explained more fully when we install the guns.

I used a CA Gell glue for fitting the eyebolts it cures more quickly and you can simply dip the eye bolt rod into the glue and using tweezers insert the eyebolt.

Next task is the placing of the word Pickle on the stern. The individual letters are etch brass that need painting and individually positioning.

It is best to remove the letters from the etch tree and clean up any tabs left with a needle file, the etch is thick and should not bend under fileing. Remove one letter at a time from the etch tree clean it up and then place it on the sticky side of some low tack masking tape.
Once all the letters are spaced out on the masking tape the letters can be primed, either with clear metal primer as used on the eye bolts or as I did with Halfords grey primer from a rattle can.

Once the primer is dry the letters can be painted white. I find white the most unforgiving of colours to paint especially with a paint brush. for best results spray the letters white using Humbrol matt white rattle can.

The simple method of installing the letters is to use masking tape to create your spacing. I began by running a strip of masking tape under the gunport to the depth I wanted. the first letter was installed using PVA glue. then a thin strip of masking was used to space the next letter

I removed the spacing tape after each letter to ensure no excess glue stuck the tape to the ship!. once the glue is firm but malleable use the tip of a knife blade to remove any excess.

Thanks for looking in and supporting the build so far.

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jase

#104 Posted : 11 March 2017 07:37:35

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Installing the capping rail.

The capping rail in this kit is CNC cut from a sheet with the belaying racks incorporated, this saves a lot of time for the model builder, however there is still some work to be done on them. the rails are deliberately made to long so that you can trim them to size. remove one rail and offer up to the model. mark of the approximate length required and cut about 5mm longer than required with a razor saw.

dry fit and gradually sand back the stern end until the rail is the correct length. Ensure that you have sanded the correct angle into the rail so that t butts up tightly to the stern counter.

Once this is done you will need to open up the belaying rack holes using a drill. test fit a belaying pin in the holes to ensure a good snug fit.

Once happy with fit, use a fine sandpaper to rub down the part taking the sharp edges off. the underside of the rail can now be painted black. Note the rail is black the full length even when creating the gun port tops.

Apply glue to the bulwark tops where the capping rail will make contact. you will need to clamp the rail to ensure a good fit. I found that bulldog clips worked well for this, but you could also use elastic bands or cable ties,

Fit the second capping rail in the same way. if you have a gap either at the bow point or the stern counter you can use some filler such as milliput to fill the gap. when lady paint the top of the capping rails black and then give them a cart of matt varnish. You can now glue in the belaying pins and give them a gloss varnish.

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jase

#105 Posted : 12 March 2017 17:18:28

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Inner Bulwark Fittings and Building, installing and rigging the 12 pounder carronades.

With the Capping rail installed we can now add the bulwark fittings, it is important to do this prior to installing the carronades as they will get in the way depending on where you chose to instal them.

Step A. First remove and clean up the 16 carronade deck blocks and install them centrally at each gun port. once the glue is cured drill through the location hole and through the deck.

Step B. Using a needle file clean up 8 of thee white metal cleats drill holes as per the instructions and plan sheet 2. once glued in place paint them dull black.

Step C. Build up the 6 sliding beds as per the instructions. Ensure you round off the end foot as per the sliding bed shape. glue the brass rod in place with a slight protrusion on the upper surface. Once the glue is dried file flat the top of the brass rod with a needle file. finally install the sliding beds locating the brass rode into the hole of the deck blocks.

Step D. If you wish to build up the Carronades as per the instructions you will now need to remove the etch parts. These will need cleaning up as there is some heavy seams on some parts allow approx 3 hours for this.
However if you would prefer a more simple build approach read the alternative steps below.

Step E. Remove and clean up the carriage parts, open up the forward hole with a 1mm drill. Drill four 0.5mm holes approx 2mm deep on each corner as per the instruction.

Step F. At this point we need to move away from the instructions sequence a little as they are needlessly a over complex when it comes to the rigging of the carriages. With this in mind just add the forward set of eye bolts ensuring the two slots for mounting the carronade are facing up. ensure you have the correct angle of the eyebolts. You may wish to paint the eyebolts black before fitting.

Step F. Alternative. Add the forward set of eye bolts only, ensuring the two slots for mounting the carronade are facing down. Check that you have the correct angle of the eyebolts. You may wish to paint the eyebolts black before fitting.

Step G. Build up the trunnion as per the instructions. make the brass rod slightly longer than required, once the glue has set file the rod flat to the outsides of the trunnion assembly. fix in place the copper rod in the mounting hole this will sit in the slot on the sliding bed, then fix the trunnion assembly in place on the carriage. mount the carriage onto the sliding bed and glue in place with PVA. If painting your carronade then do so at this point along with the trunnion assembly. once dry use some CA glue and locate the trunnion pin in the dimple on the underside of the carronade.

Step G. Alternative. Ignore the trunnion parts as they will not be used. cut the brass wire long slightly longer so that it protrudes above the carriage about 3mm. and glue in place. mount the carriage onto the sliding bed and glue in place with PVA. If painting your carronade then do so at this point along with the exposed wire. Once dry use some CA glue and locate the wire into the dimple on the underside of the carronade.

Step H. cut a 6 pieces of 1.5mm wire to length and insert them into the hole in the cascable, this should also be painted black with the rest of the metalwork if that is your choice.

Please note in the following steps I have used some alternative blocks and treads for photography purposes and the kit pars should not be replaced.

Step I. The breech rope is added next using 0.5mm natural thread. Secure one end to one of the lower eyebolts already in the bulwark side using PVA. Thread through the forward eybolt on the carronade carriage, loop once around the cascable and back through the other forward eyebolt finishing at the opposite lower bulwark eyebolt. there is no space to tie this of so just glue in place with pea and once dry trim any excess away. Thread clippers for sowing are useful for this task.

Step J. The two carriage blocks need rigging up next. First tie an eyebolt to the centre of some thread. Then tie the tread around the block forming a knot at the top. you must ensure your thread is on the sides not covering the arse hole which should be at the end furthest from the eyebolt. Trim the thread and put to one side.

Step K. Cut two pieces of thread for each block this time. repeat step J. Then create a second not but before tightening place the second thread through the loop at the top of the block and tie off. trim the treads so that you have a block with eyebolt at one end and a tail of thread at the other. this will give you the basis of the block and tackle for each side of the carronade.

The first block from step J can nown be glued into the holes at the rear of the carriage. the other block can be glued into the upper hole in the bullwark. once dry the tread tail can be treaded through the carriage block and then through the bulwark block and trails onto the deck ( you may find a needle treader is helpful in getting the thread through the blocks). trim the tail thread at the point you want the cheese wheels and glue to the deck with PVA ensuring the tackle is tight as possible.

Step L. create cheese wheels for each side by cutting some thread to length. place one end at the centre point on some masking tape. using the handle of a needle file hold this in place while wrapping the tread around in a circle pressing it to the masking tape as you go. once your happy coat the cheese wheel and the block and tackle with diluted pea glue to hold everything in place. peel of the cheese wheels once dry and glue to the deck where your thread terminated.

This completes the installation of the carronades.

“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain

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jase

#106 Posted : 18 March 2017 22:50:40

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Gratings and Galley Flue.

The gratings are not difficult to make with a little planning. The simplest way to build the gratings is to put togather the first two strips forming an 'L' shape. next put the assembled two pieces on a large enough piece of upturned masking tape. continue to add all the pieces to complete that one side. Once done our a second piece of masking rape on the top, flip the assembly over and peel off the first piece of tape, continue to add more strips until the grating is fully assembled.

Thin some wood glue with water and brush onto the assembly, allow to dry the flip the assembly and repeat on the other side.

With the glue now dry we can cut to size. The instructions direct you to make and fix the grating edging to the deck and fit the grating to it, however it is much easier to follow these steps.
1. count how many holes will cover the measurement given in the instructions.
2. using a razor saw cut dow the grating to size and sand the edges flush.
3. cut the first edit strip and glue to one edge, when dry sand flush on both ends
4. repeat step 3 on the opposite end
5. repeat step 3 for the two remaining sides ensuring the edging strip is flush with the other edges
6. sand the top of the grating to ensure it is all level.
7. fix in place on the deck

The flue is simple to make. Cut the 4 x 4 strip to length then drill the flue hole at on end, 3mm wide and 3mm deep. Paint the chimney black and fix behind the second grating. Use 1.5 x 1.5 strip to form the side comings.

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jase

#107 Posted : 25 March 2017 07:37:16

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Main hatch assembly

The main hatch is a simple build but some care is needed to get a good tight fit. start by cutting to length the first section of 1.5x1.5mm walnut to make the inner or recessed liner. It is important that the distance fore-and-aft measures 30mm which may be longer than your opening. fix this in place then make the next and carry on the same process until all four pieces are fixed in place and you are happy with the fit. these pieces should frame the main hatch opening in the deck.

with this done the outer liner can be made following the same process using 2x3mm walnut. Note this must be orientated to sit higher than the 1.5 liner to form a recess

Using 1.5x5mm walnut cut the covers to 20mm, this is about 1mm longer than required. Test fit each one and sand one end down until you achieve a good fit. note you should test fit each cover in the location it will be fitted to allow for any variation in width.

if you plan to permanently fix these in place they can now be glued in.

Drill 0.65mm holes through each end of the main hatch covers, centrally fore-and-aft and approximately 2mm in from each end. The lifting handles are made from two copper eye bolts. Open one copper eyebolt, I used the tip of a pair of round nose pliers for this, then pass the ring of the second eyebolt through so they are linked. With the second copper in position, gently re-close the eye and trim the ‘stem’ off one to form two rings one with a stem. if the covers are to be removable tut the second stem to to 2mm long. Repeat this until you have twelve ringbolts and paint matt black.

Once the paint is dry glue the ringbolts into place using CA glue. if the hatch covers are removable use a flat file to file the protruding end flush.

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jase

#108 Posted : 25 March 2017 08:01:00

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Constructing the Windlass.

Identify and remove the thick windlass barrel octagons (25) and windlass barrel ends (26) from the 4mm walnut sheet and the narrow windlass barrel octagons (35), barrel pawl rings (36) and part (37) from the 3mm walnut. Take care not to crack them when removing them, but there are plenty of spares.

You will need to clean up the parts I found a small file ideal for this job. If you wish you can now paint the parts red ochre with the exception of the windlass barrel pawl rings which should be painted matt black, this can be done before but I found after assembly to be quite easy.

The parts are threaded onto a length of 1mm brass rod, taking care to align the flats of the octagons. it is easer to glue them to each other as you tread them on ensuring the flats are aligned. It is important that you position the pawl rings correctly, they are not central but offset to the port side. If you wish the windlass to be able to turn, do not glue the barrel octagons or the brass rod to the standards.

Next drill 1mm holes accept them as per the instructions for the hand spikes. use tape to mark 2mm on your drill bit to ensure you only drill 2mm deep.

The assembly can now be painted if you have not already done so.

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jase

#109 Posted : 25 March 2017 13:07:35

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Constructing the Pawl Bitts

Remove the pawl bitts parts from the 3mm walnut sheet. file away the tabs and gently rub down all the surfaces using fine sandpaper. dry fit the parts to be sure of orientation.

Remove the 4 etch brass windlass pawl halves. these are a bit fiddly place one half on a spot of blutack and Ising a fine wire or cocktail stick apply some CA glue to the first half. Using tweezers carefully place the second half on top and adjust to ensure the parts are aligned.

These can now be painted matt black

Referring to the instuctions, drill a 0.65mm hole through the sides of the bitts. It should be noted that this hole is central to the pawl bitts, fore and aft and top to bottom, this results in the hole being above the mid point of the pawl slot.

Assemble the pawl bitts and then paint the whole assembly red ochre.

The standards and crosspiece can now be glued into place in each of their respective slots the fit is tight. pass some brass wire through and cut to length. with a file file the wire smothered and touch up any paint work

Jason

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jase

#110 Posted : 01 April 2017 21:28:52

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Cleats and Eyelets

Referring to Plan Sheet number 2, we can now add the 7 eyebolts and 2 cleats.

First identify the positions the cleats and mark the spot for drilling with a pencil. Once you are happy you have the positions drill a 0.65mm hole at each location

paint the top half of the eyebolts with a matt black.

The first pair of eyebolts are positioned one either side of the main mast. Positioned 8mm from the deck centreline and level with the aft edge mast hole. Orientated to run fore-and-aft. they should be fixed in place using a Gell CA glue.

The next pair of eyebolts are positioned 3mm from the inner bulwark and 6mm aft of the fourth gunport. one on each side and again running fore-and-aft.

The last set of three eyebolts are positioned 4mm aft of the main mast opening in the deck. The first is positioned dead on the centreline of the deck and the others 5mm apart on each side of the centreline. as with the others they should run fore-and-aft.

Next up are the two cleats, they require a 1mm hole. the parts are white metal and need to be cleaned up using a needle file to ensure no visible mood seams or flash. They are positioned one on each side with the same orientation as the eyebolts. They should be positioned with the edge in line with the aftermost edge of the after head ledge on the middle hatch and 15mm either side of the deck centreline.

Jason

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Gandale

#111 Posted : 01 April 2017 22:35:46

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Coming along nicely Jase, well done... Cool

Regards

Alan

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jase

#112 Posted : 02 April 2017 13:00:34

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Gandale wrote:

Coming along nicely Jase, well done... Cool

Regards

Alan

Thanks Alan, thundering through this now BigGrin

Jase

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stevie_o

#113 Posted : 02 April 2017 20:09:34

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Nice work Jase and clearly explained BigGrin

Steve

Building - DeAgostini Santisima Trinidad, Panart 1/16 scale armed launch
Built -De-Agostini HMS Victory,Airfix 1/12 Scale Bentley Blower, "The Orca" from the Jaws Movie, Tamiya 1/35 Quad Guntractor, Tamiya 1/35 25pdr Field Gun, Jaws "Final Showdown" Sculpt, Academy Stuart M3 Honey Tank, Airfix 1/350 HMS Illustrious, Emhar 1/35 scale MKIV Tank

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jase

#114 Posted : 02 April 2017 22:34:27

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stevie_o wrote:

Nice work Jase and clearly explained BigGrin

Steve

Hi Steve,

Thanks for looking in and you comments, won't be long before this one is in the bag. Cool

Jase

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jase

#115 Posted : 05 April 2017 21:59:01

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Outer Hull fittings

Eight scuppers are added to the outer hull using PVA to allow positioning. cut the parts from the etch brass fret and ensure any tabs are filed smooth. Referring to Plan Sheet 2, for positioning. once the glue is dried paint them in matt black

The two hawse holes are drilled with a 2mm drill. Due to the position of the bowsprit the port and starboard hawse holes are not symmetrical.

The starboard hawse hole centre point is 16mm from the stem and 9mm below the capping rail.
The port hawse hole centre point is 21mm from the stem and 9mm below the capping rail.

The kit instructions move to the channels at this point, but we will com back to them later.

The hole for the Bowsprit can now be done. using the same 2mm drill make a pilot hole 6.5mm below the underside of the capping rail and 3mm from the stem. open the hole unto approx 5mm with a round file. be sure to ensure the angle is correct. use 5mm dow in the kit to dry fit ensuring it passes through the hole. also use the pawl bitts to test fit of the dowel

Eyelets:
9 copper eyebolts painted matt black, are required for the outer hull, drill 0.65mm holes. referring to the plans for the positions.

The gammoning ring must be painted paint matt black Gently open the eye of the copper eyebolt far enough to accept the gammoning ring and then re-close it around the gammoning ring. The eyelet is positioned into the leading face of the stem and is located centrally, athwartships, and at a distance of 20mm below the top edge of the stem. The ‘eye’ should be positioned to run vertically.

[img]https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2841/33821405756_1a35631532_b.jpg[/img

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#116 Posted : 08 April 2017 15:44:15

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Rudder

Remove and clean up the rudder and tiller arm from the Walnut sheets. carful with the tiller arm, I managed to snap mine. The Instruction ask you to make a square hole in the rudder top to receive the tiller arm, however it is iwaser to simply drill a hole and shape the tiller arm accordingly

with this in mind drill a 1mm 3mm from the top of the rudder, the centre point of the hole should be positioned centrally, ensuring you are allowing for the angle of the rudder once fitted. mark off the depth of the rudder top against the tiller arm and add 0.5mm. sand this length to form a round, keep dry fitting into the 1mm hole in the rudder, reducing the 2mm square to a 1mm round. once complete you should have a tight fit in the rudder hole with apron 0.5mm protruding from the rear. Sand the protruding part of the tiller flat to the rudder. paint the tiller arm Red Ochre and put to one side.

Dry fit the rudder to the hull. I found I needed to reduce the width of the top of the rudder to get a good fit as well as shaping the rear top edge to fit snugly.

The rudder should be marked with a continuation of the waterline. Paint above the line black. I chose to also paint the inside edge of the rudder in copper. Apply copper tiles up to the waterline doing each side first then the rear edge and finally the bottom.

It is a good idea to open up the central holes through the pintle and gudgeon straps with a 0.65mm drill before removing them from their etch sheet. The pintles are formed from brass dome headed pins with their heads removed and the gudgeons are formed from copper eyelbolts.

Use a set of long nose pliers to form the straps before glueing each rudder pintle strap into position, I used Zap Gel CA for this. The straps should run perpendicular to the leading edge of the rudder.
Drill a 0.65mm hole through the centre hole of the strap and into the rudder to accommodate the pintle. Glue the pintle in place and once dry bend up using round nose pliers, final snip the pin head off to form the pintle. The instructions ask you to bend down but it is easier to bend them up and hook the eyebolt onto them.

carefully mark the positions of the eyebolts drill the 0.65 holes and snip the ends of the eyebolt to shorten them
once done glue in place and hang the rudder in place. carefully paint the brass matt black

once dry the tiller handle can be glued in place too.

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jase

#117 Posted : 11 April 2017 11:53:34

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The Skylights

I chose to make up the two skylights next. They are both built to the sam method.

Begin by removing the parts required from the walnut sheet and file away the tabs. Ensure there window openings are free of any dust.

Glue one side piece to one end piece first. you will need to ensure it stays perfectly at 90 degrees while setting, Once dry Ade the other end then other side followed by the roof centre plank

When this assembly has set, the skylight openings can be chamfered on the ends and dry fitted. Once you are happy that they are a good fit they too can be fixed in place; note the window recesses should face outward

The etch skylight window frames can then be removed and any tabs filed away. Check fit and if necisery file the windows down to fit. once happy glue in place, PVA will work or CA. once dry spread a thin layer of filler over the whole assembly and with fin sandpaper sand smooth. paint the assembly red ochre

cut the acetate sheet to size and using PVA glue the glazing in behind the windows

remove clean up and paint the bars for windows mat black and fix in place with CA

Jase

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-Mark Twain

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#118 Posted : 12 April 2017 07:20:30

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The Companion

The Companion hatch is built up in the sam method as the skylights. Clean up the parts and glue one side to the ), back. When adding the second side also fit the front combing to ensure everything is square finally add the hinge support strip on the top. At this point paint the assembly including the separate top and front doors. also prime and then paint the liner and outer hinge pats matt black. Note I have chosen to paint the insides of the Companion hatch white, you can can paint this Red Ochre as per the instructions if you choose, however I believe it adds a bit of variation that catches the eye in white.

Next build up the companion-ladders. Remove and clean up the ladder sides from the walnut sheet. Make the treads for the ladder from 1x5mm walnut cut to a length of approximately 9.5mm to give an overall width to the assembled companion-ladder of 11mm. You may have to sand the treads gently to get a good fit. glue the slats into one side section ensuring they are straight. dry fit the other side ensuring the treads are straight and clamp together to dry.

Once dry test fit the ladder in the Companion hatch hole. if required gently sand the outer edges of the layer until they fit. once they fight snuggly glue the other side in place prior to fitting the ladders.

Glue the assembled hatch Fram to the model, you can glue the skylights in position at the same time.

Drill 0.65 holes in the 3 hatch doors as per the instructions paint matt black 3 eyebolts and trim the stems to 2mm and glue in place. if the eyebolt protrudes file flat and touch up the paint.

Remove the hinge parts from the etch fret, bend the inner hinge assembly to shape with pliers. Measure and mark out the positions of the inner hinges using the instructions for reference. and glue in place using CA gel. while the glue is not set gently test fit the leg and adjust the positions so that the hinges ar flush with the inner sides of the hatch assembly, carefully remove and let dry. once set using CA Gel fix the lid in your decide position. a small clamp or crocodile clip is helpful to hold the inner hinge in place, or place some scrap wood in the opening to hold the lid in position while it sets

Next glue the front hatch doors in position with wood PVA. once set bend the outer hinges tbythe correct amount test fit and when happy glue in place with PVA. Repeat on the top hatch door and finally add the inner hinge stays.
touch up any paint once all is dry.

please note the correct orientation of the front hatch doors I painted one of the outer sides white in error, don't copy that bit!! Blushing

Pumps are up next

Jase

“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain

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Gandale

#119 Posted : 12 April 2017 08:38:43

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Nice work on the hatch Jase, looks good.... Cool

Cheers

Alan

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Sticky Wickett

#120 Posted : 12 April 2017 09:35:37

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Love the copper tiling! Excellent!

Completed projects: 1/43 scale Bedford HA van / 1/43 scale MG TD sports car
Current projects: 1/48 scale U-boat [U230]
Future projects: 1/148 scale railway diorama / 1/50 scale R/C Volvo F89 logging truck / 1/148 scale Thunderbirds Fireflash

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ModelSpace » Other Ships » Other Ship & Submersible Build Diaries » Members Ship & Submersible Build Diaries » Jase's beginners ship building tutorial. HM Schooner Pickle

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