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Thanks both for looking in and your comments “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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 Rank: Super-Elite       Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/07/2014 Posts: 4,269 Points: 12,713 Location: Scotland
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Really cracked on now Jase  love those copper tiles  excellent work mate  regards Phil  COMING SOON =1/72 Italeri diorama`s Battle for the Reichstag and Stalingrad battle at the tractor factory 1/16 Trumpeter King Tiger with loads of extras ON THE GO= refurbishment of 1/25 Tamiya tiger 1 , amt Star trek kits and space 1999 models
So Much to Build,But What a Hobby!
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 Rank: Elite   Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/04/2012 Posts: 1,787 Points: 5,292 Location: Thurso
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Looking really good, great work.
Graeme
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Many thanks both. In real life just got the righing and two ships boats left to do. More posts very soon Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Pumps look good Jase, nicely done.... Regards Alan
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Thanks Alan “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Super-Elite   Groups: Registered
Joined: 20/10/2016 Posts: 4,504 Points: 13,548 Location: Wiltshire
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Nice detailing Jase. Regards, Phil W Completed projects: 1/43 scale Bedford HA van / 1/43 scale MG TD sports car
Current projects: 1/48 scale U-boat [U230]
Future projects: 1/148 scale railway diorama / 1/50 scale R/C Volvo F89 logging truck / 1/148 scale Thunderbirds Fireflash
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Sticky Wickett wrote:Nice detailing Jase.
Regards,
Phil W Thanks Phil. this is a straight box build, everything you see is in the kit Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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The Bowsprit
First a note on Tapering. As you will have seen so far it is perfectly possible to build a ship model with no specialist tools. however if you are to buy just one machine to make building a ship model both easier and quicker then a lathe is the one thing to buy. I will discus lathe use in some detail when looking at the masts, for now I will deal with manual tapering methods.
The simplest method of tapering dow is to fold a sheet of sandpaper in your hand and run the dowel back and forth while rotating it, frequently stopping to check the thickness of the dowl end with a calliper.
However, where a significant amount of material needs to be removed the use of a David plane is ideal.
Step 1. Reduce the dowel in the direction of the grain, from a round at the start point of the taper to a square at the end of the taper, its important to stop this process still having some material to remove. you will need to do this 8 times finishing with a polygon that slightly above the finished diameter.
Step 2. Repeat the process again on your corners creating a 16 or 32 side polygon again slightly more material left than required.
Step 3. Using medium to fine sandpapers, round of the taper again running with the wood grain.
Making the Bowsprit.
The bowsprit is constructed from a 145mm length of 5mm dowel. At The 55mm point the dowel should be tapered down to 3mm.
The jib-boom is constructed from a 90mm length of 3mm dowel. At the 30mm point the dowel should be tapered down to 2mm
A 0.5mm hole needs to be drilled in the boom at the point shown on the plans. A .65mm hole needs to be drilled for the copper eyebolt. It is easer to drill straight through insert the copper eyebolt and snip to length. the stub can be filed flush with the boom with care not to deform the boom. Do not glue in place until after the boom is fitted to the Bowsprit cap permanently.
The bowsprit cap is a solid block that needs drilling and filing out to accept the bowsprit and the Jib-Boom. It is vital that these holes are t drilled at an angle so that, when the bowsprit and jib-boom are positioned through the cap they align to the plan sheet. drill pilot holes and then widen with a bigger drill bit and finally file to shape with a round file. keep test fitting the dowels for fit. once happy sand the bowsprit dowel flat with the cap.
Two copper eyebolts need to be fitted into the cap as per the plan. these can be painted when the Bowsprit is painted. Note that the eyebolts are not on centre
The jib-boom saddle is now removed from its sheet and cleaned up. Glue the Bowsprit dowel into the cap and then glue in place the saddle. insert the Jib-Boom and glue into place. insert the eyebolt and fix in place with some CA Gel.
Two stop cleats need to be fabricated from 1.5x1.5mm walnut. Each stop cleat is just 4mm long. mark of 4mm then mark of 3mm. Using a round file gently remove material at the 3mm point to create the curve and use a flat file to form the end shape. Glue into position as per the plan.
Painting and staining.
TheInstructions call for the bowsprit and jib-boom to be stained walnut I have chosen dark oak instead.
I masked of the areas as per the instructions, from the bowsprit cap back to 10mm beyond the inner end of the jib-boom painted matt black. This includes the bowsprit cap, jib-boom saddle and the stop cleats.
once dry I stained the unpainted sections.
The Bowsprit can now be installed. If you have not yet installed the Windlass and Pawl Bitts do this now, ensure you get the correct orientation and glue in place. once dry test fit the Bowsprit. You may have to 'fettle' the Bowsprit hole to ensure the Bowsprit sit correctly. once happy glue in place.
Two more stop cleats need to be made as per above. using masking tape mark of the position of the stop cleats and glue in place. The Bowsprit can now be gammoned. using the triangular gammoning eyebolt tie 7 terns of 0.5mm black thread. The gammoning passes over the bowsprit in front of the gammoning cleats, down and through the gammoning ring in the stem. With seven turns completed, do not cut or secure off the end, instead pass it around the centre of the gammoning, between the bowsprit and stem, seven times and secure off to itself
Jase“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Masts.
The Masts are fundamentally the same construction and both the fore (schooner) mast and main mast will be tackled together.
Tapering note. the method of tapering is the same as used for the bowsprit, however we will look a bit closer at the use of a lathe this time.
A Lathe can significantly speed up the process of tapering masts and yards. the process is simple and a Basic lathe is all that is needed.
1. mark the end pint of the mast or yard and cut 5mm longer than needed.
2. Place the dowel into the lathe ensure there is space between the chuck and the point you need to taper from
3. Use corse sandpaper to start tapering running the length of the section of dowel to be tapered
periodically stop the lathe and check the width of the dowel with a calliper or similar tool
4. when nearly at the desired width change to a medium grit paper
5. Finally remove the dowel and cut of the access with a razor saw, use fine sandpaper to give a last sand ensuring it is smooth.
Lower masts
The lower part of the main lower mast is constructed from 6mm dowel, cut to a length of 280mm and 4x4mm walnut cut to a length of 45mm.
The lower part of the fore lower mast is constructed from 6mm dowel, cut to a length of 263mm and 4x4mm walnut cut to a length of 45mm
remove and clean up the main lower top trestletrees and the long and short crosstrees. Assemble as per the instruction. The bolsters are made from 8mm lengths of 1.5x1.5mm walnut, sanded to a quarter rounds.
NOTE: you will need to slightly open up the hole at the Bolster point to allow a good fit with the middle section of the masts.
The two halves can are joined by drilling a 1.5mm hole, centrally down into the lower half, making use of the centring as per the pumps. Use a length of 1.5mm brass rod to join the two. dry fit to ensure the length is ok. The top is angled to be in line with the water line, sand the top of the dowel and the bottom of the box to fit at the correct angle when fitted in the deck. check the brass rod still fits. when happy glue together. once dry test fit tresses tree and when happy glue in place.
The main and schooner top masts are slightly different in assembly
The main topmast is made up in two parts, 4x4mm walnut cut to a length of 50mm. Mark off 15mm , and sand the corners to make an octagonal length
The upper section of the main topmast is constructed from 4mm dowel x 100mm, this should be tapered down to 2mm at one end.
With the two sections of the topmast formed they can be pinned and dry fitted together with 1.5mm brass rod. Using the plans provided drill a 1.5mm hole for the fid. Form the fid by sanding 1.5x1.5mm walnut into a rod. dry fit but do not glue into place.
The fore topmast is made up in three parts, 4x4mm x 50mm walnut is formed as per above. The middle section of the fore topmast is constructed from 4mm dowel, cut to a length of 55mm. Mark, 8mm up from the Top and taper from the base to the mark dow to 3mm. From the 8mm taper from 3mm round to 4mm round with the remaining length of 4mm to form the hounds.
The ‘head’ of the topmast is a 35mm length of 3mm dowel that should be tapered from 3mm down to 2mm.
With the three sections of the fore topmast formed they can be pinned and glued together with 1.5mm brass rod
remove and clean up the mast cap. Dry fit all the parts checking the full assembly in the deck. When you are happy with the alignment, glue the components together but not into the deck.
The stop cleats are formed as before on the Bowsprit and should be fitted as per the plans. Also fit the copper eyebolts using the sam method as previous referencing the plans. The instructions advice is to ad the blocks at this point, I suggest doing this after painting. Drill 1mm locating hole drilled at the points indicated on the plans for the 6 metal cleats.
The mast coats can now be cleaned up and if necessary opened up with a round file to fit snugly over the mast, do not glue in place.
For painting the masts mask of at the correct points using the plans. place the mast coat on the very end of the mast and paint the underside matt black including the edges. paint the masked of areas matt black also as well as the stop cleats, cleats and boots. once dry remove the masking tape.
Stain the remainder of the mast as per the Bowsprit. remove the mast coat and reverse it to put back on. dry fit the masts and when happy glue into place. ensuring the masts are straight from all angles, a small spirit level is a good tool for this.
Finally add the blocks to the eyebolts as per the instructions.
masts done
Jase“Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Superelite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/05/2010 Posts: 2,608 Points: 7,519 Location: Lincolnshire
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Really am loving your tutorial Jase How much are those mini lathes? Any brand you'd recommend? Never used one but would love to try. Keep up the good work Regards Gray
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CaptnBirdseye wrote:Really am loving your tutorial Jase How much are those mini lathes? Any brand you'd recommend? Never used one but would love to try. Keep up the good work Regards Gray I have only used Proxxon, so cannot speak for others however I tend to find Proxxon tools of the best qulity. http://www.axminster.co....oodturning-lathe-702054
Jason “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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 Rank: Pro Groups: Joined: 24/08/2009 Posts: 48,827 Points: -13,348
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CaptnBirdseye wrote: How much are those mini lathes? Any brand you'd recommend? Never used one but would love to try.
Steer well clear of the 12v Mantua brand: https://www.mantuamodel...._working_lathe_130.html these are underpowered and quickly burn-out the motor.
The only brand I recommend is Proxxon and is 240v - not cheap but is German engineering and quality: http://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/27020.php?list
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Rank: Superelite Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/05/2010 Posts: 2,608 Points: 7,519 Location: Lincolnshire
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Thanks. I'm a big believer in 'buy cheap-buy twice!', you do get what you pay for. Even cheaper on Amazon at £137.00 Regards Gray
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Yards, gaffs and Booms.
There are two yards, two gaffs and one boom to be constructed. tapering and joining of all these uses the same methods as used in the assembly of the masts.
Yards
The fore yard is made up from one 180mm length of 4mm dowel; the central 45mm section of the yard should not be taperd while the outer ends are tapered down to 2.5mm. Use the same method as used for the masts tapering one side first then the other.
The topmast yard is made up from one 105mm length of 3mm dowel; the central 26mm section of the yard is not tapered the remainder is taper each end down to 2mm round.
With the yards taper the the sling cleats should be removed and cleaned up and fitted using the plans for reference. Each yard also has four stop cleats, one pair on each end made as per others on the mast and bowsprit. As per the bowsprit.
Driver Boom
The driver boom is made up from one 190mm length of 4mm dowel. The first 75mm from the end should remain at 4mm with the remainder of the length tapered down to 3mm
Remove and clean up the driver boom jaws, join the jaws to the dowel with a length of 1.5mm brass wire using the same method applied for the masts.
Fore Gaff
The fore gaff is made up from one 85mm length of 3mm dowel tapered from 3mm round to 2mm round. Remove the fore gaff jaws, join the jaws to the dowel with a length of 1.5mm brass wire
Main Gaff
The main gaff is made up from one 95mm length of 3mm dowel tapered, from 3mm round to 2mm round. Again, join the jaws to the dowel with a length of 1.5mm brass wire
Copper eyebolts can now be fitted using the plans for positioning.
The yards, gaffs and boom should now all be painted matt black.
once this is done we can dry fit the yards to the for mast. Using the plans for positioning measure the points to be drilled and using a .65 drill drill holes for the two yards in the mast. drill holes through the yards at the centre point and push a dome head brass pin through the yards mount the yards on the mast to test all is correct, DO NOT GLUE IN PACE. the yards will be fitted after the shrouds and ratlines are added.
The foot ropes or horses are next up...
0.25mm black thread is used for this. The outer end is tied or 'seized' to the yard, outside the stop cleat, the thread then passes through the stirrups made from of 0.5mm brass wire and finally seized to the yard, outside the sling cleat on the opposite side.
The stirrups are formed by creating a small loop should in one end just large enough for the thread to pass through, use a pair of round nose pliers for this, use the plans for positioning reference. Drill a hole into the underside of the fore yard to accept the stirrups, about 1.5mm deep. the stirrups are fitted so that the loop hangs 15mm below the yard.
The blocks should be added at this point too. How to tie Blocks will be dealt with in the next post.
    “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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Rank: Super-Elite Groups: Registered
Joined: 28/07/2014 Posts: 4,269 Points: 12,713 Location: Scotland
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Love it Jase those brass eyes and the turned dowel are excellent your a very skilled modeler brilliant  regrads Phil COMING SOON =1/72 Italeri diorama`s Battle for the Reichstag and Stalingrad battle at the tractor factory 1/16 Trumpeter King Tiger with loads of extras ON THE GO= refurbishment of 1/25 Tamiya tiger 1 , amt Star trek kits and space 1999 models
So Much to Build,But What a Hobby!
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Rank: Elite  Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/03/2010 Posts: 2,065 Points: 6,295 Location: Gorleston-on-sea
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Just been catching up on your build Jase...Its absolutely Beautiful work...Love it to bits mate!!  Current Builds: Deagostini HMS Victory: Deagostini HMS Sovereign of the seas. Completed Builds: Del Prado: HMAS Bounty: Hachette: RMS Titanic: Del Prado: Cutty Sark...
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Thank you very much John and Phil for your words of support, it is very much appreciated. Glad your enjoying the build Jase “Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to pause and reflect.”
-Mark Twain
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